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THE 



PANORAMA OF TORQUAY, 



DESCRIPTIVE AND HISTORICAL SKETCH 



OF THE DISTRICT COMPRISED 



BETWEEN THE DART AND TEIGN, 



BY 
OCTAVIAN BLEWITT. 



^ecmrtr ©fctttfliu 



EMBELLISHED WITH A MAP, AND NUMEROUS 
LITHOGRAPHIC AND WOOD ENGRAVINGS. 



3Utllf0tt 



SIMPKIN AND MARSHALL, 

AND 

COCKREM, TORQUAY. 



MDCCCXXXII. 






Hie terrarura mihi prseter omnes 
Angulus ridet, ubi non Hymetto 
Mella decedunt, viridi que certat 

Bacca Venafro ; — 
Ver ubi longum, tepidas que praebet 
Jupiter brumas. 

Hor. Car : Lis. 11. 6, 



These forms of beauty have not been to me 
As is a landscape in a blind man's eye ; 
But oft in lonely rooms, and mid the din 
Of crowds and cities, I have owed to them. 
In hours of weariness, sensations sweet, 
Felt in the blood, and felt along the heart, 
And passing even unto my purer mind 
With tranquil restoration. 

Wordsworth. 

v. 



entorrtr at gztztitititx!? %att. 









n 



^ TO 

HENRY WOOLLCOMBE, Esq. 
Clje \Bvesitismt, 

AND TO THE OTHER MEMBERS OP THE 

PLYMOUTH ATHENAEUM, 

THIS ATTEMPT 

TO ILLUSTRATE ONE OP THE MOST BEAUTIFUL DISTRICTS 

OF 

£0uti) Btban, 

IS RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED, 

WITH THE AUTHOR'S BEST WISHES FOR THE 
INCREASING PROSPERITY OF 

€f)Z Iitftttuttfftu 



PREFACE. 



In presenting to the public a new edition of this 
Sketch, a few words may, perhaps, be expected 
from me ; and I offer them the more willingly 
since it is my duty to acknowledge here the 
sources of my information. The following pages 
have been wholly re-written, and now contain 
more than ten times as much matter as the first 
Edition, — although that impression has been 
twice pirated. It is hoped that the change will 
prove valuable to the tourist. Topography is 
not a light field, and if this attempt to give to a 
local work a tone of general and scientific interest 
be not successful, I trust that others will at least 
profit by the example. Had more time and op- 
portunities been allowed to me, the book might 
have been more interesting and perfect ; but it 
already exceeds the limits of other similar pub- 
lications, and if it transgresses in this particular, 
it will not fail to enjoy the countenance of good 
company. The assistance I have derived from 
many literary and scientific friends has added 
much to its value, and the most pleasing office 
is to return thanks for this kindness. To the 



Yl. PREFACE 

Venerable Archdeacon Froude, to the Rev. H. F. 
Lyte of Brixham, to the Rev. Roger Mallock of 
Cockington Court, to Henry Cary. Esq. of Tor 
Abbey, and to the Rev. Robert Gee of this place, 
I am indebted for much interesting intelligence ; 
— and to Archdeacon Froude and Mr. Lyte, in 
particular^ for many valuable directions how to 
proceed in the course of my inquiries. To Dr. 
James Clark of London, the Author of the 
Treatise on the Influence of Climate, my acknow- 
ledgments are due for the obliging mariner 
in which he revised that part of the work which 
his volume so ably illustrates; and the Rev. 
George Oliver of Exeter, and Mr. Brown of 
London are no less entitled to my thanks — the 
former for his aid and exertions in the arduous 
field of Ecclesiastical Antiquities — the latter for 
his constant instructions on the subject of Ancient 
Architecture. Nor must I omit to mention 
the aid afforded me by the Rev. J. M. Glubb 
of Dartmouth, — Henry Woollcombe, Esq. Pre- 
sident of the Plymouth Athenaeum, — William 
Brockedon, Esq. of London, — and J. M. Rendel, 
Esq. Civil Engineer. But above all are to be 
mentioned the obligations under which I am 
laid by the assistance and contributions of Mrs. 
Griffiths and Thomas Northmore, Esq. The 
article on Natural History will be acceptable to 
ail, containing, as it does, the most recent of 



PREFACE Vll. 



Mrs. Griffiths's truly beautiful discoveries in the 
difficult department of marine botany : — Mr. 
Northmore's Letters will also be perused with 
lively interest, while the opinions which they 
advance wiH sufficiently speak for themselves. 
They will also show how necessary is the inquiry 
after truth, and how often men rise to fame on 
the discoveries of others. It is the Author's 
most earnest hope that the introduction of 
scientific subjects into the work may be well 
received : it must not be forgotten that the local 
histories of Switzerland are far superior to those 
of England in this respect ; and although I 
regret that it is not in my power, at present, 
to render the Geological Sketch more perfect, 
an apology will scarcely be required by those 
who know how much this neighbourhood is 
deficient in philosophic energy. Nor was it 
possible to define more accurately every part 
of the district on the small scale of the Geo- 
logical Map; but it appeared more desirable 
to give a general outline from De la Beche, 
although diminutive, than to omit it altogether. 
A few words may be said of the Illustrations. 
The artist of the Lithographs has incorrectly 
lettered the ruins of the Church and Chapter 
House at Tor Abbey "Entrance" and "Ruins 
of the Chapel)' and has unfortunately omitted 
to insert in the Vignette Title Page the name 



Vlll PREFACE 

of Mr, Gendall of Exeter, by whom it was first 

painted, — and to whom I now beg to restore 

the justice he deserves. For the Sketch of 

lis am Cell (engraved, along with all the wood 

cuts, by Hearder, of Plymouth) we are indebted 

to Mr. T. H. Williams, — those of the Doorway 

and Pulpit at Paignton were reduced from the 

drawings of Mr. Brown. There are a few 

typographical errors, but they will be readily 

detected, with the exception of the misprint 

of towns instead of houses at page 120 of Mr. 

Northmore's Letter. None but those who have 

experienced what Miss Landon calls the awful 

reality of a proof-sheet, can form any idea of 

the difficulty of getting a work through the 

press of a small provincial town, without these 

occasional inaccuracies. 

I trust, however, as no pains have been 

spared in the work, that the inhabitants of 

Torquay will receive this volume as the parting 

gift of the Author, with his best good wishes 

for their prosperity and for the welfare of their 

beautiful town. 

O. B. 
Torquay, Sept. 1832. 

Erratum. 

It is incorrectly stated at page 68, that Livermead House 
is a boarding establishment ; now, we beg to remark that it 
is simply a lodging house, and must be regarded as such. 

The Author will feel obliged by the correction of any 
other errors which may have occurred in the work. 



CONTENTS AND ILLUSTRATIONS 

OF 

€1)Z Panorama at QCavquxyi. 



Introduction. Chorography of Torbay : — outline of the coast ; 
Geological Illustrations of the District, and General 
History Pp. 1. to 33. 

PART II. The Topography, Climatology, Statistics, and public 
Establishments of Torquay 34 to 73. 

PART III. Natural History of the Torbay District ; Botany of 
Torquay, Marine Botany of Torbay, Conchology etc. by 
Mrs. Griffiths 74 to 83. 

PART IV. Walks; Excursions; Sketches of Scenery ; Topogra- 
phy, and local History, — 

Walks, etc.— I. Tor Abbey and Tormohun, 84-87. II. Tor 
Abbey Sands and Livermead, 88-89. III. Chapel Hill, 90. 

IV. Meadfoot, Ilsam, Ansty's Cove, and Torwood, 91-92. 

V. Park Hill, 93. VI. Babbicombe, 94-95 ; St. Mary Church 
and Barton, 96; Stony Valley, and the Warberry, 97. VII. 
Cockington, 98-100. VIII. Watcombe and Maidencombe, 100-1. 
IX. Paignton, 101 ;— Goodrington, 102 ;— Elberry Cove, 103 ; — 
Paignton Sands, 104. X. Compton Castle and Marldon, 104-7. 
XI. Kent's Cavern, with Mr, Northmore's Letters to 
Mr. Blewitt, 107-38- 

Excursions. I. Brixham and Berry head, 141-49. II. Dart- 
mouth and up the Dart to Totnes, 149-58. III. Banks of the 
Teign, Combe, Stoke, Newton, and Haccombe, 158-165. IV. 
Berry Pomeroy Castle, 165-71. V. Wolborough, Bradley, 



CONTENTS. 

Ogwell, Denbury, and Ipplepen, 172-76. VI, Dartington, 
176-79, VII. Ashburton, Holne Chase, Buckfast Abbey, Little 
Hempston, etc. 179-85. VIII. Chudleigh and Ugbrook Park, 
185-86. Dartmoor, 187-99. 

PART V. ANTIQUITIES. Brit. Rom. Dan. Sax. 200-51. 

Grecian, 200. British, 201. Roman, 202-7. Danish, 207. 

&flr fflamsfttvt) 208-15. 

Parochial History and Antiquities, 215-50. 

I. Tormohun, 215-23. II. St. Mary Church, 223-29. III. 
Cockington 229-33. IV. Paignton, 233-35. V.Marldon, 235-36. 
VI. Brixhara, 236-38. VII. Dartmouth, 238-39. VIII. Banks 
of the Dart, 239-40. IX. Totnes, 240-43. X. Stokeinteignhead, 
Combe, etc. 243. XI. Ford House, 243-44. XII. Newton, 
244. XIII. Haccombe, 244-45. XIV. Coffinswell, 245-46 
XV. Berry Pomeroy, 246-47. XVI. King's Kerswell, 247. 
XVII. Wolborough, 247-48. XVIII. East Ogwell, 248. XIX. 
West Ogwell, ibid. XX. Denbury, Torbryan. and Ipplepen, 
248-49. XXI. Abbot's Kerswell, 249. XXH. Dartington, 
ibid. XXIII. Ugbrook, 250. XXIV. Bishop's Teignton, and 
Harberton, 250. 

^rattrrg at ffzmilkg antr Mititwtiani, 251. 

PART VI. BIOGRAPHY OF EMINENT NATIVES. 

I. Guy de Bryan, 254. — Sir John Cary, ibid. — Sir John Hody, 
255.— Sir William Petre, ibid.— Sir Humphrey Gilbert, 256.— 
Adrian Gilbert, 258. — John Davis, ibid. — Sir Thomas Ridgeway, 
ibid. — Dr. Robert Cary, 259. — William Newcommen, ibid. — 
John Lethbridge, 260.— Philip Frowde, 262.— Dr. John Hux- 
ham, ibid. — Edward Lye, 266. — Dr. Benjamin Kennicott, 267. — 
George Baker, 269. — Dr. Philip Furneaux, ibid. — Robert Sweet, 
270.— William Brockedon, 271. — Biographical Summary, 274. 

Appendix of Local Information, 276. — 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 



Ruins of the Chapel, Tor Abbey, . » . . Frontispiece. 
Vignette Title Page of Kent's Cavern. 

Topographical Map before page 1. 

To face p. 

Wood Engraving of Torquay 36 

Tor Abbey 85 

Table of Distances ... .. 186 

Entrance to the Chapel, Tor Abbey 208 

Tor Abbey Gate 214 

Tor Church 219 

Font at St. Mary Church . . ; 228 

Paignton Pulpit, and Doorway. Arms, etc 235 



INCORPORATED WITH THE LETTER PRESS. 
Armorial bearings of Cary and Palk . . . . 35 

Tor Abbey, Brewer, and Mohun 86, 217 

Mallock 98 

the Corporation of Totnes . . 156 
Haccombe and Carew .. .. 164 

Pomeroy 167 

Ridgeway and Cary .. .. 219 

Chapel Hill 89 

The Cell at Ilsam .. 91 

Compton Castle 105 



HOMO, NATURJE MINISTER ET INTERPRES, TANTUM FACIT 
ET INTELLIGIT QUANTUM BE NATURAE ORDINE RE VEL 
MENTE OBSERVAYERIT : NEC AMPLIUS SCIT AUT POTEST. 

BACON, NOVUM ORGANUM 
APH. I. 




CHURCHES 

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I N DEX 

TOTHE GEOLOGY 
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I R edSautvoUtinte, CcnvgLonieo-aJi. 
| j &rcuu.wcuJci 

Jtiov-ey Coal 

Schist © Caverns 




A TOPOGFAPHTCAL ^ 

OF THE PARISHES 

/a/ The Vicinity of 

]Uux$trcLtLv& of the District and 
A NTI QUITIES 
PescnbeoL in the 

PANORAMA of TORQUAY 

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\re m, "T^ro tuxy Oct- / st /83z 



PANORAMA OF TORQUAY. 



INTRODUCTION. 



5T0r5ag, (Swflfljjn arrtf Qzntx&l $?tetar». 



In the south of Devon, bounded on the south by the 
Berry-Head, and by Hope's Nose on the north-east, and 
lying about midway between the Dart and Teign, is situ- 
ated this noble and delightful Bay. It forms an irregu- 
larly semilunar outline of about twelve miles in extent, 
and is divided by the promontory of Park Hill into two 
distinct portions, — the smaller of which is known by the 
appellation of Meadfoot Bay. These two divisions differ 
both in appearance and in their geological characters. 
The cliffs between Hope's Nose and Meadfoot Bay are 
rugged and perpendicular; — the little bay itself is backed 
by a precipitous and broken hill, and the limestone cliffs 
extending to Torquay from the point opposite the Shag 
Rock are steep, wild and contorted. Beyond Waldon 
Hill the coast assumes a milder character; the land 
slopes gradually to the shore, and is proverbially rich and 
fertile. It presents a well-cultivated tract of country, 
luxuriantly clothed with wood, and abounding in pic- 
turesque and enchanting scenery. Advancing along the 
coastj the sands of Tor Abbey are separated from those 
of Livermead by Corbon Head, and the latter from the 
B 



extensive sands of Paignton by the abrupt and cavernous 
promontory of Livermead. Roundham head next inter- 
venes between the sands of Paignton and Goodrington, 
which are divided by low cliffs from Broad Sands. Be- 
yond the rocky land of Mumbles Point, the cliffs become 
bolder and more abrupt, and continue so to the Berry 
Head, being occasionally broken into coves, the most 
considerable of which forms the harbour of Brixham. 
This range of coast is backed by hills varying in height 
from 200 to 500 feet ; Furl and hill, between Brixham 
and Dartmouth is 589 feet above the sea, according to 
the Ordnance Survey. * 

The length of Torbay from north to south, i. e. from 
Tor Abbey sands to the Berry Head is Six miles, and its 
depth from Hope's Nose to Broad Sands about the same 
distance. The length by the true north, from the Ore- 
stone to the Berry is exactly 4 miles, and the depth, 
true east and west, drawing an imaginary line between 
the headlands, is 3^ miles. Vessels may anchor in the 
bay in 6, 7 5 8, and 9 fathoms, the ground is strong 
clay. The general anchorage is about a mile and a half 
from the pier head at Brixham ; and in this situation, 
during easterly winds, which always cause a consider- 
able swell, ships may ride easier than in any other part 
of Torbay, for they will there have an underset to 
windward. The Flat Rock, Orestone, and Thatcher, de- 
tached masses of limestone off the eastern promontory, — 
the Shag stone near the quarry at the west of Meadfoot 
sands, and Morris's Rogue, a short distance from it in a 
direct line to the Berry, are the only rocks of any conse- 
quence in the bay. The Harbrick, a low rocky ledge, 
extends into the sea in a straight line from Tor Abbey 
sands and is visible at low water. The depth of water 
between the Orestone and Thatcher is 7 fathoms, and 
close to the latter and the Shag from 5 to 6. Between 
these and the shore the ground is rocky. There is a 
sunken rock a little more than a cable's length S. W. by 
S. from the Orestone, with 6 or 8 feet over it ; it is dry 
at low ebbs. There is a ridge on the S. W. side of the 
Bay, on which are 3 fathoms water ; on Morris's Rogue 

* Geolog. Trans, 



3 



there is about H foot, and the general depth along the 
shores of the bay is from 2 to 6 fathoms.* 

From an early period, Torbay has been in war a prin- 
cipal place of rendezvous for the British Navy. It has 
also been justly celebrated as a roadsted by the most 
eminent commanders, and has sheltered many of our 
noblest fleets during the westerly and southwesterly gales, 
to which the whole of this line of coast is more or less 
exposed. Before the erection of the Breakwater in 
Plymouth sound, the channel fleet were frequently obliged 
to bear up for Torbay, and its advantages during these 
storms were fully appreciated. During the late war, it 
was the station of the squadron under Earl St. Vincent ; 
and a watering place for the Navy, and a depdt for ma- 
rine stores are still maintained atBrixham. The greater 
part of the bay, however, lies open to the south-east, 
and as the little port of Torquay can only afford shelter 
to vessels of small tonnage, there is no security for 
shipping while the wind prevails from that quarter. In 
1799, Mr. Whidby proposed to obviate this deficiency 
by the erection of a Breakwater, but although this en- 
lightened suggestion was unsuccessful, the country has 
not been deprived of his valuable and scientific services, 
— for in 1815, the celebrated undertaking of that des- 
cription was commenced under his direction in the har- 
bour of Plymouth. While the present King was Lord 
High Admiral, Mr. Whidby's proposal was revived, and 
the bay personally inspected by his Majesty. The ex- 
pense was estimated at ^£1, 120,000, that is, 3640,000 
for twenty-eight years, but nothing final was determined 
on. This desirable measure would not only be a local 
benefit by encouraging the trade and commerce of the 
district, but prove an undertaking of the highest national 
importance, and render Torbay the most commodious, 
safe and noble anchorage in the kingdom. In the event 

* In Torbay it is high water, full and change, at 6 o'clock, and 
the tide vises 20 feet. The eastern stream ends at 8, and in the 
offing at 9, while on the southern side of the bay is an eddy, with 
all the eastern stream, and on the north side of the bay, with the 
western stream, both round the bay ; but outside the Orestone, 
the western stream sets direct for Berry-head; 

b2 



of another war, it will be imperatively necessary to 
adopt some measure for the safety of the bay — an arm of 
the sea might be thrown out from the land between Brix- 
ham and the Berry, or a floating breakwater established 
which would be attended with a very trifling expense. 
There is no part of the kingdom which may be rendered 
more valuable as a naval station both in peace and war ; 
conveniently situated between the two great arsenals of 
Portsmouth and Plymouth, and in the midst of the most 
fertile district of the south of Devon, it possesses a para- 
mount claim to the consideration of government ; and 
its consequence in this particular calls loudly on our na- 
val administrations to take some timely steps for its se- 
curity, and not to defer it to the period of necessity or 
danger. 

Torbay derives its name from being surrounded with 
numerous and rocky hills. It is not uncommon in De- 
vonshire for many places to take the name of Tor from 
this circumstance; indeed, some of the Tors, as High 
tor, South Brent tor, Three Barrow tor, Sharp tor, 
Hamil tor, and Cawson downs were formerly beacons 
or fire towers, which the word Tor itself in the Celtic 
and other languages implies, and anciently there were 
watchings and vvardings of these beacons, as evinced by 
a record, dated 1626, of the customs, ancient privileges 
and " fFreedom of the manor of Sheepstorre," which 
was " ffree from watching and warding of all beacons'* 

The country along the shores of Torbay is divided by 
the parishes of St. Mary Church, Tormohun, Cocking- 
ton, Paignton, Marldon, Brixham and Churston Fer- 
rers, all being in the hundred of Haytor, and the dean- 
ery of Ipplepen, — and is considered one of the most fertile 
districts in the county. It forms the eastern boundary 
of the South-Hams, — a tract of land which, from the 
richness of its soil, and the general character of its 
scenery, is frequently designated the Garden of England. 

* See Notes to the first edition of Carrington's Dartmoor, by the 
late W. Burt, Esq. of Plymouth. 



Outlines of Geology. 

Si quid novisti rectius istis, 
Candidus imperti j si non, his utere mecum. 

Hor. Epist. i. vi. 

This department of the physical history of Torbay has 
been illustrated by the able researches of H. T. De la 
Beche, Esq. from whose memoir in the 3rd vol. of the 
Geological Transactions the first part of the succeed- 
ing sketch has been compiled. It comprehends a por- 
tion of the red sandstone formations, and a considerable 
share of the grand chain of transition limestone, which 
intersects the south-western part of the county in a nearly 
direct line from Babbicombe to Plymouth. The follow- 
ing outlines are, no doubt, imperfect; and are presented 
in the hope that they may lead to further and minute 
inquiry. The whole district of Torbay is rich in sub<- 
jects of philosophical research^ and offers a highly 
interesting and fertile field in almost every branch of 
natural science.. It will be our pleasing duty in the course 
of this work to record some of the most splendid indi- 
vidual efforts of scientific inquiry that the age can boast 
of; but even with these instances, much necessarily re- 
mains to be effected in a neighbourhood peculiarly 
deficient in philosophic energy. 

° The rocks of this district "to which Mr. De la Beche 
gives the name of mountain limestone, have usually been 
referred to the transition limestone of English Geologists, 
that is, a limestone which occurs beneath the old redsand- 
stone ; they, however, rest upon that rock, contain fos- 
sils that have been discovered in the carboniferous lime- 
stone of other places, and though a matter of minor im- 
portance, mineralogically resemble it : — they are, more- 
over, separated from the old red sandstone by a shale 
which may be considered the equivalent of the lower 
limestone shale. These limestones occur in beds from a 
few inches to several feet in thickness ; the usual colour 
is grey, varying in intensity ; they are frequently traversed 
by calcareous veins, and, in texture, vary from compact 
to semi-crystalline, the latter predominating in the vici- 



6 



nity of trap, and when the strata are much disturbed. 
The semi-crystalline limestones afford a great variety of 
beautifully tinted marbles, which are much employed 
for ornamental purposes. These limestones are, here 
and there, interstratified with shale ; they also rest upon 
a considerable thickness of argillaceous shale, into which 
they seem to pass. The shale is usually reddish in the 
upper part, brownish grey in the lower and larger por- 
tion, and it strongly reminded Mr. De la Beche of the 
shale similarly situated in Pembrokeshire. The most 
abundant organic remains in this limestone are encri- 
nites and corals. Trilobites also occur ; and in the vici- 
nity of St. Mary Church, a very singular fossil, which 
Mr. De la Beche was unable to refer to any known 
class of organic bodies, but which Mr. Broderip thinks 
may have probably belonged to the*Tunicata, a group 
including the marine animals best known under the name 
of Ascidise. Shells also occur in it, including species 
belonging to the genera Cardium, Megalodon, Terebra- 
tula, Spirifer, Nautica, Euomphalus, Bellerophon, Tur- 
ritella, Mnrex(?), Buccinum, Pleurotoma, Nautilus, and 
Orthoceras." The shells found in limestone at Torquay 
generally occur in distinct strata, which alternate with 
those containing madrepores. They have been noticed 
under these circumstances, at the quarry near the Turn- 
pike; — at the south-western point of Meadfoot bay oppo- 
site the Shag Rock considerable quantities were noticed 
by Dr. Beeke, in a portion of the rock which has since 
been destroyed by quarrying. They occur also at Bar- 
ton, and in the whole range of limestones about Bradley 
and Ogwell. 

" The limestones of St. Mary Church, Babbicombe, 
and the northern side of Torbay encircle the old red sand- 
stone, which extends from Meadfoot sands towards Up- 
ton. The section on the south side of Meadfoot sands 
shows the limestones resting on old red sandstone. The 
quarry at the south-west point, opposite a rock called 
the Shag Rock, is worked in gray and reddish compact 
limestone, dipping south-west ; beneath, is an argilla- 
ceous shale, reddish in the upper part, and grey in the 
lower ; the latter is slightly micaceous. This forms the 



cliff from the point to a short distance east of the place 
where the road descends to the beach ; and to this suc- 
ceeds a red siliceous grit traversed by veins of quartz, 
and containing iron. The cliff composed of red grit is 
much concealed. The limestones in the vicinity of Tor- 
quay are much disturbed, as are also more or less all the 
stratified rocks of the district. These beds are observed 
to be contorted along the whole coast, from the town 
to the point opposite the Shag Rock ; they seem, how- 
ever, to have a general dip away from the old red sand- 
stone, between which and the body of limestone the 
argillaceous shale is always interposed. So much con- 
fusion exists in this vicinity, that no regular dip of the 
limestones can there be determined. They dip south- 
south-west at an apgle of 35° near the Turnpike; and at 
the quarry behind the new line of houses near the Baths, 
to the south-west. They are perpendicular, with a north 
direction, at the little hill near Tormohun, at Chapel 
Hill, and under Torwood House. At Stantaway Hill, 
between Tor and Upton, the calcareous slate and lime- 
stones are much confused. At Butterhill quarry, the 
limestones are much disturbed. On the new road from 
Torquay to St. Mary Church, at the entrance of the 
Stony Valley, irregular, detached and arched strata have 
a very picturesque effect, the arch appearing to be almost 
a work of art. The coast also from Babbicombe to the 
Black Head, exhibits confused strata of limestone and 
argillaceous shale ; at the latter place we may observe a 
thick, bent stratum of limestone included in the solid 
trap ; this limestone is very crystalline. Hope's Nose, 
with the Flat Rock, Orestone, and Thatcher Rocks ly- 
ing immediately near it, is composed of limestone which 
is much contorted at the cove north of the Thatcher. 
This mass of limestone is detached from the limestones 
on the west, that is, above the level of the sea : and 
beneath, they are probably connected with the Torquay 
beds, for the Thatcher Rock is composed of them. 
Kent's Cavern is situated in these limestones. 

From Barton the limestone extends along the hill to 
Kingskerswell, where Exeter Red Conglomerate covers 
it for a short distance ; but at the lower part of the vil* 



8 



lage on the old Dartmouth road, the limestones again 
come in, and are continued to the top of the hill, where 
a quarry exhibits their contortions. The limestones on 
the south of Torbay, like those on the north, are greatly 
disturbed, as may be seen along the coast from the Berry- 
head to Saltern cove, near Goodrington. At Marstink 
quarry, near Paignton, thin strata of semi-crystalline 
limestone dip north about 20°. At Saltern cove, lime- 
stones are mixed with and disturbed by trap, which has 
greatly altered the character of the limestone at the 
points of contact. In one of the projecting points the 
altered limestone does not effervesce freely with acids; it 
contains corals. Reddish shale, resembling that on the 
north side of Torbay and similarly situated beneath the 
limestone, occurs much contorted at the western point 
of Saltern Cove. In some places it is traversed by quartz 
veins." 

Berry-head as well as the whole of the eastern part of 
the parish of Brixham is also composed of secondary 
limestone with the exception of a narrow course of ar- 
gillaceous schist, which crosses the limestone from north 
to south, and runs out to sea at Mudstone bay. The 
limestone on the coast to the west of Mudstone bay is 
strongly impregnated with iron.* 

The limestone which we have traced thus far from 
Petit Tor in Babbicombe Bay, may be followed west- 
ward, nearly in a direct line, to the Orestone quarries 
at Plymouth, and the general similitude of the organic 
remains in the rocks about Torquay and Plymouth has 
been justly considered by Mr. Hennah, " a strong mark 
of the affinity that there is between the different parts 
of the whole series. "f 

From Kingskerswell the limestone extends to Newton, 
and thence through the vale of Bradley and Ogwell to 
Den bury, Torbryan, and Ipplepen. The country about 
these places exhibits all the characteristics of a limestone 

* From information of the Rev- H. F. Lyte. 

f See " A Succinct account of the Lime Rocks of Plymouth, 
by the Rev. R. Hennah, F. G. S." The scientific world is indebted 
to this gentleman for his having first called attention to the organic 
treasures of these limestones. 



9 



district, and around Ipplepen and Torbryan the scenery 
is peculiarly fine and romantic. — From hence it proceeds 
direct to Littlehempstone, Berry-Pomeroy and Totnes. 

Mr. John Prideaux, an eminent Geologist and a mem- 
ber of the Plymouth Athenaeum, considers that there 
have been two distinct formations of limestone in Devon- 
shire, exemplified in their " texture, position and ani- 
mal reliques, " the eastern portion being- the oldest, and 
the western the newest deposit. " If it prove so," says 
Mr. Prideaux, " our (Plymouth) limestone is a differ- 
ent formation from that further east, which Mr. de la 
Beche refers to the carboniferous series; this is also pro- 
bable from its direction here, which is rather south- 
ward of east, as well as from the more crystalline appear- 
ance of the stone. "f 

The great mass of red marie, sandstone and conglo- 
merate, according- to Mr. Conybeare, proceeds south 
from the vale of Taunton into Devonshire : — a long por- 
tion of this formation extends along- the vale of Crediton 
to Exeter, proceeds thence to the channel in a southern 
and continuous course by Chudleigh and the Teign, and 
ends at the south-west angle of Torbay ; a tongue of it 
running in among the transition formations between the 
mouth of the Teign and Torbay, skirted by insulated 
groups of transition limestone on the east, and the great 
transition district on the west. 

" The general character of the old red sandstone, as 
it occurs in this district, is best exhibited near Cocking- 
ton. Between this place and Livermead sands, are two 
quarries of chocolate-coloured, micaceous, siliceous and 
very compact sandstone. In both a slaty variety, splitting 
easily in the line of the laminae, which are filled with 
mica, is mixed with compact and micaceous beds, which 
vary in thickness from a few inches to two feet. The 
strata are much confused, some are curved, and some 
dip in all directions. In its great hardness, in its colour, 
in being micaceous, and in general appearance, it differs 
entirely from the red sandstone associated with the 

+ See Mr. Prideaux's publication, entitled "a Geological Sketch 
of the Country between the River Plym and Taniar, from the 
Granite of Dartmoor, southward to the Sea." 



10 



" Exeter conglomerate" of the Corbons and Livermead. 
After passing Livermead on the road to Paignton, a new- 
cut exposes a slaty variety of this rock, apparently pass- 
ing into Grauwacke. Among the strata are a few of the 
more compact and solid sandstones. Thick beds of old 
red sandstone are observable at Chelston, and on the rise 
of the hill west of Cockington on the old road to Totnes, 
but they are quickly covered up by " Exeter Conglo- 
merate," which latter continues to conceal it as far as a 
small rivulet about half a mile east from Ockham, where, 
it again emerges. From the vicinity of Ockham to 
Westerland, this rock passes gradually into grauwacke 
slate, losing its red colour, but preserving its mica. At 
Collaton Kirkham, the same slaty and compact varieties 
are seen as in the Cockington quarries ; their dip is east- 
north-east, at an angle of about 20°, the beds being 
sometimes curved. They are much more highly inclined 
in the same vicinity. Exeter red conglomerate covers 
these rocks on the same hill, and contains rolled pieces 
both of its slaty and compact varieties. The old red 
sandstone passes into grauwacke on the high hill north- 
north-west of Paignton. The red compact sandstone 
beneath the argillaceous shale at Meadfoot sands very 
much resembles the Cockington compact old red sand- 
stone. At Hope Farm the resemblance between the two 
will be found most striking ; and there can be no doubt 
that the limestone shale rests upon it in the vicinity ; in 
fact, the wedgeshaped mass of old red sandstone extend- 
ing from Meadfoot sands and Hope Farm towards Upton, 
is bounded by a mantle of argillaceous shale. The sand- 
stone and slate of Meadfoot sands may almost be consider- 
ed as the passage of old red sandstone into grauwacke, or 
they may be the old red sandstone strata altered by the vi- 
cinity of trap. Beneath the red grit of the Meadfoot sands 
is a grey, compact, fissile and very micaceous sandstone, 
resembling in every thing but colour the semi-schistose 
varieties of the Cockington red sandstones. Their angle 
of dip varies considerably; it is at first towards the south- 
west at about 65° or 70°. These strata rest upon, and 
pass into a slaty rock resembling the old red sandstone 
schist of the vicinity of Ockham, in every thing but col- 



11 



our. They are here dark-coloured. These rocks tra- 
verse the point of land named at its extremity, Hope's 
Nose; and upon them the limestone of that place appears 
to rest. Small trap veins are observable both in this 
rock and in the red grit of Meadfoot sands. Between 
Ockham and Westerland the old red sandstones pass into 
grauwacke rather micaceous. It contains the vertebral 
columns of encrinites, corals, and bivalve shells. The 
schist is used to line the interior of the neighbouring 
lime-kilns. The dip is east-south-east, about 45°."* 

The Eovey coal formations, according to the excellent 
account of Mr. Kingston, continue from the Heathfield 
through a natural opening, in a south-east direction, to 
Teignbridge and Kingsteignton, — thence cross the Teign 
by Newton, and proceed by Ford at the base of Milburn 
Down; in which direction they may probably be partially 
traced to the coast of Torbay, near Goodrington. f 

To the west of Babbicombe, trap protrudes upwards 
into the argillaceous slate of the carboniferous limestone, 
the adjacent beds of shale are broken and contorted, and 
portions of these are included in the mass of trap. The 
cliffs about Oddicombe sands are inaccessible and plunge 
directly into the sea. Near a fault at these sands, the 
argillaceous slate is elevated to the top of the cliff, and 
the adjoining new red sandstone appears to have been 
forced up by the same agency. From the appearances 
of the coast of this district, Mr. De la Beche concludes 
that they point out two distinct geological epochs ; — 
A st. That of the formation of the new red sandstone, 
after the shale and limestone had been partially broken 
up ; and 2dly, The intrusion of the trap, at a period sub- 
sequent to the deposition of the new red sandstone, 
This disturbance he refers to the operation of trap, and 
considers that we may attribute to the same cause and 
period the great dislocations in the oolitic series on the 

* For the passages within inverted commas, we are with some 
slight alterations, indebted to the article on Torbay in Mr. Bray- 
ley's outlines, — condensed by him from Mr. De la Beche's valu- 
able memoir in the Geological Transactions. 

V: Moore's History of Devon, vol. i.— Geological Transactions, 
vol- iii. part 1. 

f Kingston's mineralogy of Teignmouth. 



12 



east of this district, — and refer to the convulsion by 
which these disturbances were effected, the catastrophe 
which elevated the chalk of the Isle of Wight, — and, 
perhaps, even that which threw up the main ridge of the 
Alps. 

The limestone of Torbay, as we have already shown, 
is much contorted and disturbed. In exposed and ele- 
vated situations the soil is generally scanty, and the 
level surfaces of the rock are covered with a stinted turf. 
It abounds in precipices and caverns, and chasms in 
which the ash is frequently found flourishing luxuriantly. 
The extremity of Park Hill at Daddy's Hole, and the 
high cliffs above Ansty's Cove indicate the effects of great 
convulsive violence. Near the Bathing Cove, a natural 
arch of limestone extends into the sea, and is known by 
the absurd appellation of " London Bridge;" — the strata 
of which it is composed are almost perpendicular. Along 
this side of Park Hill there are numerous hollows and 
fissures in the limestone, which can be explored only in 
a boat. In one of these, the Blower, the wind issues 
strongly from an aperture in the extremity, and there- 
fore appears to indicate internal communication. Be- 
yond Berry head, another limestone arch occurs, broad- 
er than the London Bridge ; — The red sandstone cliffs 
of Torbay are frequently excavated in the most beautiful 
manner, and have a very picturesque effect when ex- 
amified from the sea. At Corbon Head, the extreme 
boundary of Tor Abbey sands, there was a fine sandstone 
arch, which fell a few years ago ; in form and situation 
it resembled those already mentioned. At Livermead, 
the sea has formed a broad low cavern in the cliffs, and 
in south-easterly gales the roaring of the waves in its 
recesses resembles distant thunder; — it has therefore, 
been appropriately called " Thunder Hole." — On the 
exterior it appears supported by red sandstone pillars in 
the centre, round which boats may pass when the tide 
permits. At Churston Cove is an arch in miniature, 
much concealed in the cliff, but large enough to admit a 
passage round it. Between this and Elberry Cove, a 
red variety of limestone occurs in the quarries , in col- 
our it resembles porphyry ; it is beautifully veined, and 



13 



is equal to some of the finest specimens of foreign 
marble. The limestone of Berry head is much employed 
for building and agricultural purposes. Ash Hole, a 
Cavern of considerable interest, is situated in this lime- 
stone, at a short distance from the Military Hospital. 
A vague report that fossil remains had been found in the 
vicinity of Brixham, induced the Rev. H. F. Lyte, a few 
years ago, to institute an investigation in this cave, in the 
hope of discovering similar organic treasures to those of 
Kent's Cavern near Torquay. Although the excavations 
were carried down to the perpendicular depth of seventy- 
feet, the original floor of the cave was never reached ; 
but the antiquary is indebted to the scientific and well- 
directed researches of Mr. Lyte for the valuable discovery 
that the Ash hole was the burying-place of the Roman 
Garrison. This interesting subject will be discussed 
more fully in the archaeological department of our work 
to which we beg to refer the reader. The fissures and 
cavities of limestone at the Berry head have afforded a 
great variety of stalactites ; in structure and beauty they 
surpass all that have yet been found in the south of 
Devon. In a hill of well-defined greywacke slate in the 
neighbourhood of Newton, Mr. Radley, of that place, 
discovered a fine specimen of fossil Trilobite. The base 
of the hill rests on Greywacke, and no circumstances 
connected with its locality or appearance would have led 
a Geologist to expect that it formed the sepulchre of 
organic beings. By diligent research Mr. Radley was 
enabled to obtain about thirty specimens ; they occurred 
about 15 feet below the surface, in the solid beds of 
slate, and inclining near to its rhomboid margins. In 
the vale of Ogwell, near Churcombe Bridge, is West 
Hill, the property of Col. Taylor ; it is composed of 
secondary limestone and forms a part of the grand chain 
which intersects that district. In a part of this hill, 
near White Rock, a splendid mass of stone, containing 
madrepores, corals, encrinites and other animal remains, 
was discovered about two years ago by Mr. Sharland of 
Torquay. In fact, like the usual formations of coral 
rag, it is entirely composed of a congeries of many beau- 
tiful varieties of aggregated and branching madrepores. 
c 



14 



It sustains a high polish, and, except when much ^per- 
vaded by iron, turns well in the lathe. This mass runs 
4 or 500 yards in a chain about N. and S.; and, at its 
lowest depth, is more than 80 feet above the bed of the 
Lemon, which flows through the valley of Ogwell and 
Bradley, and, crossing Newton, falls into the Teign. 
1'nder this, close to the bed of the river, is a vein of 
Lucullite, or black marble, which is fully equal to the 
best productions of Kilkenny. These quarries are worked 
by Mr. Sharland, and the marbles are manufactured by 
him into vases, tablets, and other kinds of ornamental 
workmanship, which display all the beauties of its charac- 
ter and composition. In the argillaceous shale of Mead- 
foot sands, the articulating surfaces of encrinal vertebra*, 
and stems also of encrinites are obtained. Some speci- 
mens in which these remains are polished, may be ex- 
mined at the shell-shop of Mrs. Wyatt, near the market. 

The pebbles on this coast are frequently collected by 
visitors, and polished for the madrepores they contain. It 
is almost unnecessary to say that many unacquainted with 
the character of organic remains are frequently disap- 
pointed in the object of their search, and imagine that 
every stone mast contain a treasure. In conchology, 
also, shells which are only to be obtained by dredging, 
are often expected to be found lying on the beach, ready 
to adorn the cabinet of the collector without any further 
trouble : — Torbay offers many facilities for scientific 
study, but it can afford no means of attaining it in a day. 
Very delicate and beautiful specimens of madrepores in 
limestone pebbles may be obtained in the coves about 
Babbicombe and Watcombe ; they are also found on 
Teignmouth beach, but they have evidently been drifted 
there from the limestone strata of this vicinity. 

The limestone of this district is more or less impreg- 
nated with iron, and particularly in the neighbourhood 
-of Brixham. About 40 years ago, so much of this metal 
was found at Sharnham point, on the property of George 
Cutler, Esq. that considerable quantities were shipped 
for London and the great provincial markets ; and about 
the same time some copper and tin mines were opened 
at Wood JIuish, near Mansand, between Mudstone bay 



15 



and the entrance of Dartmouth harbour, but they were 
not. attended with much success. 

The slate of Mud stone bay has been extensively used 
for roofing. At Aller, near Newton, Pipe and Potters' 
Clay of great value is obtained : — it is exported from 
Torquay, and the former variety is much employed ikt 
the manufacture of the better kinds of pottery. 

Crystallised Carbonate of lime in many varieties occurs 
in the fissures of the limestone of this district; and at 
Totnes, rhomboidal crystals interlaced with fine hair- 
like filaments of Titanium. 

Arragonite is found in fissures of greywacke slate 
about Torquay. 

Sulphate of Baryta, in veins of limestone at Petit Tor 
and Babbicombe. 

Crystallised iron pyrites, at Meadfoot. 

Amorphous quartz, at Churston Cove. 

Chalcedony, at the Corbons and Livermead. 

Hydrargillite or Wavellite, in small radiated nodules 
near Meadfoot. — and' 

Beekite, the new mineral, named after Dr. Beeke, 
at the Corbons. 

It may, perhaps, be proper to notice in this place the 
extensive changes which have been effected on our 
southern shores by the action of the sea, and to consider 
the common opinion that Torbay was once a forest. 
The destruction of the harbours of Ottermouth and Seaton 
is recorded by Leland who wrote about the beginning of 
the 16th century, and the changes which have taken 
place in the navigation of the Exe have seriously injured 
the commercial interests of that river. The cliffs at 
Beer, Sidmouth, and Dawlish have considerably de- 
creased, and the site of the houses at old Teignmouth, 
mentioned in a succeeding page as having been burnt by 
the French, is now many feet below high-water mark.* 
Teignmouth is considered by Mr. Northmore to have 
been once an estuary, and there are many circumstance** 
which strengthen this supposition. The port was cer- 
taiuly, at a former period, of great extent and depth, 

* Moore's Hist, of Devon 

c2 



16 



and in an old chart in the British Museum, taken in the 
reign of Henry VIII. there is no band the entrance of the 
harbour. At Slapton Sands, about 4 miles to the south- 
west of Dartmouth, much land has been lost within a 
recent period. Leland has observed that fishermen have 
frequently taken up with their nets in Torbay, "rausons 
of hartes." It is also said that a considerable tract of 
land has been submerged in the parish of Paignton. 
From these circumstances and from this evidence, has 
arisen the idea that Torbay was once a wood. That the 
encroachments of the ocean have been of great magnitude 
cannot now be doubted ; but in receiving the accounts 
of sudden and violent catastrophes in many parts of our 
south-western shores, it is highly necessary to discrimi- 
nate between the exaggerated fables of monkish super- 
stition and the sound records of authentic history. There 
is a degree of wonder attaching to these tales which is 
sufficient to recommend them to popular credit, and in 
the lapse of ages they become, as it were, identified with 
the prejudices and feelings of the country. It must be 
known to many of our readers that the Mount's bay in 
Cornwall has been thought to have been once wooded, 
on nearly the same authority as Torbay ; and, according 
to the monkish writers, a tract of land reaching from the 
Land's End to the Scilly Islands, consisting of meadow, 
wood and tillage-land, and containing 140 parish 
churches, was submerged at the same time. But these 
accounts are too extravagant to require serious refuta- 
tion, for, independently of there being no notice of the 
event in any historical records on which we can rely, 
the period to which they refer is evidently too recent to 
have escaped attention, or to have failed in exciting some 
degree of particular inquiry. The legend, however, has, 
in many instances, been received by the Antiquary as 
genuine, and has given rise to many controversial theo- 
ries. Violent inundations, and sudden subsidences of 
the land have been advanced in explanation, and the 
tenth or twelfth century has actually been fixed on as 
the probable date of their occurrence. But, unfortu- 
nately for the value of these opinions, a submersion by a 
rise of the sea-level could not have happened, without 



17 

affecting every part of our hemisphere ; nor is it at all 
likely that a convulsive subsidence could have occurred 
unattended by the phenomena usual to such a catastrophe, 
and of which the surrounding country would afford 
abundant evidence. The discovery of the submarine wood 
on which the hypothesis almost wholly rests has been 
too partial to be conclusive, and the trees which have been 
found in the sands of Tor Abbey unquestionably belong 
to a comparatively recent period. From the situation 
and appearance of these trees it seems probable that an 
avenue existed outside the present sea-wall along the 
meadows in front of the Abbey, and it is worthy of re- 
mark that the original wall was much nearer the sea; 
this was destroyed within remembrance, The present 
wall was erected by the late Geo. Cary, Esq. ; a part of 
it was washed away iia the great storm of November, 
1824 4 and during high tides the sea frequently breaks 
over it into the adjoining meadows. At the western 
extremity of the sands, the sea is encroaching consider- 
ably, and constantly undermines fresh portions of the 
cliff over which the pathway leads to the Dartmouth 
road. In the storm above-mentioned, the marsh at 
Paignton was inundated, and the whole coast more or 
less affected. The Geologist, however, can discover in 
these occurrences nothing but the slow, silent and grad- 
ual action of a powerful element of whose restless impulse- 
the shores of every quarter of the globe bear ample evi- 
dence. He will reject altogether the vague and incon- 
clusive legend, as supported by no proof, — natural or 
historical, — and at once conclude, that, if at any former 
time, extensive forests existed in Torbay, it must have 
been at a period antecedent to authentic history, and 
when the constitution of the globe was yet unsettled. 

The headlands at Paignton and Livermead have cer- 
tainly decreased much within remembrance, and the old 
records and leases on which the tradition is said to be, 
in a great measure, founded, may have referred to the 
ground thus lost; for the Paignton sands, so far from 
diminishing, have actually increased. Indeed it is much 
to be desired that the records referring to these tracts 
should be made known, — if any such are extant ; — for iuu 



18 



many similar instances, the documents which have been 
appealed to in favour of these occurrences have been 
found to exist only in the imagination of those by whom 
the theory has been promulgated. Although, however, 
we cannot attach importance to traditions which find no 
difficulty in throwing causeways across the ocean, and 
destroying whole districts in the same spirit of conveni- 
ence, we cannot be insensible to the silent process of 
disintegration and decay, which is going on in every part 
of the earth's surface. The combined action of the wind 
and rain, the atmospheric vicissitudes to which this 
country is exposed ; the influence of the electric fluid, 
and the incessant swell of the ocean on our shores must 
necessarily produce important changes. By the power- 
ful agency of these elements the more exposed portions 
of the rocky strata become disjointed and overthrown, 
and while the constant surge and rolling of the waves 
undermine the cliffs, the large masses of rock of which 
they are composed become at length detached by their 
own weight from the main land. Hence are formed the 
insulated masses which occur so frequently on our coast, 
and the cavernous precipices and rocky arches which add 
so much to the picturesque beauty of our shores. But 
these facts offer little testimony in favour of a great 
change in the relative position of sea and land, within a. 
limited and prescribed period. They are not the work 
of a day nor of a year, — but of successive ages ; for the 
earth can claim no exemption from that universal law by 
which Time maintains his prerogative, amidst the rise 
and fall of nations, the overthrow of ambition, the 
wreck of speculative theories, and the decay of princely 
splendour.* 

* For information respecting the Marbles of this district, and 
for specimens in every variety of ornamental workmanship, we 
beg to refer the reader to Mr. Sharland of Torquay, and to Mr. 
Woodley of St. Mary Church ; — for the minerals and fossils, to 
Mr. Heggerty's extensive establishment on the Quay, and to 
Mrs Wyatt near the market ,- — and to the latter, for specimens 
of the marine botany and shells of the Torbay district. 



19 



General History. 

The immediate neighbourhood of Torquay is so little 
known in historical lore, that, in order to present a con- 
nected view of this part of our subject, it will be neces- 
sary to embrace the general and leading history of the 
entire district, extending to the banks of the Dart and 
Teign. 

If we except the story of the landing of Brutus, there 
are on record no transactions of the British period con- 
nected with this district ; for we have no historian of 
these early times. It will hardly be expected that we 
should devote much space to the vague tradition that 
Brutus, the reputed coloniser of Britain, sailed up the 
Dart with a numerous fleet of ships, and landed at Totnes, 
— a tradition which is now altogether received as a tale 
of fable and romance. It has, however, been mentioned 
by the early chroniclers; and on one occasion, it was 
employed by Edward I. as the principal testimony of his 
claim to the supremacy of Scotland. It has derived no 
importance from having been thus countenanced by royal 
authority, for it is not difficult to discern the policy of 
reviving the legend under these circumstances ; espe- 
cially as the monks were intrusted with the task of bring- 
ing it forward in a new dress, and of embellishing it 
with such additional varieties as fraud or bigotry might 
suggest ; and it depends, moreover, almost solely, on 
their authority. 

The visit of Brutus to Totnes is said to have taken 
place about the year 2887 5 and after the universal deluge 
1231 ; the Count Palatine places it in 2855, or 1108 
B. C. and Hollinshed in 2850 and after the destruction 
of Troy 66 years.* The story also says that he found 
the island peopled with giants, the leader of whom, 
Gog Magog, was conquered by his kinsman Corinseus at 

* Sammes Brit. Antiq- Illust. p. 157. Hollinshed, b. 2. For 
an able refutation of the story see Moore's Hist of Devon, vol 1 . 
8vo. p. 83. 



20 



Plymouth, on the spot where the citadel now stands, or 
according to others, on the cliffs of Dover, f 

Havillan " an old Cornish poet" quoted by Camden, 
" following the authority of the British history, thus sany 
long since." 

Inde dato cursu, Brutus comitatus Achate, 
Gallorum spoliis cumulatis navibus, sequor 
Exarat, et superis auraque faventibus usus 
Littora fselices intrat Totonesia portus. 
"Thus, says Prince, translated into English, 
From hence great Brute with his Achates steerd ; 
Full fraught with Gallic spoils their ships appear'd. 
The gods did guide his sail and course, 

The winds were at command ; 
And Totnes was the happy shore 
Where first he came on laud." 
Although the monks were the only annalists of these 
early periods, their love of the marvellous and their 
propensity to imposture, added to the prevailing credu- 
lity of the people, peculiarly disqualified them for the. 
oflice they fulfilled. Secluded from the world which 
they affected to describe, and participating largely in the 
ignorance of the times, they were as incompetent to 
obtain a correct representation of events, as they were, 
by habit and profession, to present them in the pure 
simplicity of truth. Hence in almost all the legends of 
monastic origin, reality is so blended with fictitious nar- 
rative, that they are of little more historical importance 
than the wild rhapsodies of the bards. Thus the legiti- 
mate distinction between history and fiction is lost ; and 
the imaginary adventures which have been substituted 
for facts have confounded truth with fable, and corrupted 
our early history with idle and absurd stories. The tra- 

f Sub temporibus itaque Ely et Samuelis propbetse, vir quidara 
*trenuus ct insignia, Brutus nomine, de genere Trojanorum, po^t 
escidiuni urbis Trojse, cum multis nobilibus Trojanorum app]i- 
cuit in quandam insulam tunc Albion vocatam, a gigantibus in- 
habitam ; quibus sua et suorum devictis potentia et accisis, earn 
nomine suo Britanniam sociosque suos Britones appeliavit, et 
aedificavit civitatem quam Trinovantum nuncupavit, qua? modo 
Londinia nominatur. Edward I. to Pope Boniface VIII. Hume, 
Rymer's Faedera, vol. I. 



21 



ditionary form which facts had, in many cases, assumed 
was afterwards associated with the tales of chivalry, and 
the imagination, not content with the glowing field of 
love, of conquest and of song, remodelled these ancient 
relics in the vivid and unrestricted style of romantic 
minstrelsy. Tradition, in its proper place, has its worth 
and interest, but we must be cautious how we employ 
legendary tales to supply the want of authentic records ; 
for history gains nothing by their unguarded admission, 
and antiquity loses much of its value by being identified 
with them. The legend in question is, however, a good 
collateral proof of the antiquity of Totnes, and the stone 
is still pointed out on which Brutus is saio" to have 
landed ;— but that venerable town must resign the honour 
of having first received this fabulous adventurer, — if 
honour it be ; and endeavour to discover some more 
worthy occupant of the landing-stone than the great- 
grandson of iEneas, and, consequently, the lineal des- 
cendant of Jupiter himself. 

It is remarkable that the Roman writers are silent re- 
specting their military operations in the west, nor is it 
even mentioned whether Danmonium was the scene of 
war during their occupation of Britain. It is, however, 
evident from the remains of encampments and vestiges 
of roads constructed by that nation, that the district of 
Torbay, including the Dart and Teign, was frequented 
by them, and regarded as a station of much consequence 
and power. In the part of this work devoted to anti- 
quities, the nature of this evidence will be fully exam- 
ined, and the character of their existing relics more 
generally considered, for they afford a testimony which 
" every peasant may read and no sophist can falsify." 
It is, indeed, said that Torbay was selected by Vespasian 
as the landing place of the Roman legions, when he 
visited the island ; and Geoffrey of Monmouth relates 
that Exeter was besieged by that Emperor, and relieved 
by Arviragus, the British king, between whom and the 
Romans a battle ensued in which neither party could 
claim the victory ;* but little credit is attached to the 
assertions of this writer. We are acquainted with hq 
* Lysons, vol. i. v. 



22 



other occurrences under the Roman rule, although De- 
von is rich in monuments of their power. " It is to be 
lamented" says the Bishop of Cloyne, "that so extensive 
a county, inhabited at all times by an active and indus- 
trious people, and of late, in particular, illustrated by 
the labours of many ingenious men, should still have such 
* cloud hanging over the period of its early history ;t" 
and he might have added that the silence of the Roman 
writers has not only left us unacquainted with many 
interesting and important transactions, but has deprived 
ns of much topographical and statistical intelligence, the 
value of which would have been incalculable to the future 
historians of the west. 

About the middle of the 9th century, the Danish pi- 
rates began to invade and lay waste the southern coast of 
Devon, if not before ; for some writers are of opinion 
that their first landing in Britain was at Teignmouth,* 
though this is more generally considered to be a mistake 
for Tynemouth in Northumberland. Few places appear 
to have escaped their ravages, and from their well-known 
thirst for plunder, it is very probable that all the towns 
on the coast suffered more or less by their incursions. 
In 1001,|||| they again visited these coasts, and after 
burning •' Teignton and other goodly towns, "j they 
sailed from Exmouth with Sweyn, the king of Denmark, 
at their head. They then proceeded to besiege Exeter, 
but the united forces of Devon, Somerset and Dorset 
being collected in defence of the city by Cola the 
English General, a desperate battle was fought at Pinhoe, 
in which the Danes were victorious. The next day, 
they set fire to Pinhoe, Clyst, and other villages in the 
neighbourhood, and departed with immense spoil and 
treasure to the Isle of Wight. j| 

In the reign of Richard I. Dartmouth is said to have 
been burnt by the French, § but the chronicles of that 
reign do not notice it. In 1190, the fleet destined for 
the Holy Land assembled at that port, and in the be- 
ginning of the 14th century the inhabitants contributed 
31 ships and 737 seamen to Edward the third's great 

f Lysons vol. i. cccxxii. * Camden, c.27. |||| Simeon Dunelim. 
J Sax. Chran. |j Ibid. § Mag. Brit. 1/20. 



23 



fleet before Calais.]: In the same reign the French 
pirates attacked the maritime towns of this coast, and set 
fire to Teign mouth in 1350 ; and Walsingham mentions 
a gallant exploit of the men of Dartmouth and Ports- 
mouth in 1383, when they took five French ships, the 
whole of the enemy's crew, excepting nine persons, 
having been killed in the action.* In 1404, the French 
under the command of Mods, de Castel having landed 
and burnt 600 houses at Plymouth, proceeded to Dart- 
mouth, or, as Stowe says, to Blackpool, about two 
miles from that harbour, where they were bravely re- 
pulsed by the country people. The women fought des- 
perately on this occasion, and greatly contributed to 
the victory. The General was slain, and three Lords, 
and twenty Knights made prisoners, "and carried to 
the king by the countrymen, who returned well-pleased 
with their purses full of gold." 

In the civil wars of Charles, this district, like the 
greater part of Devon, was in favour of the Parliament. 
In 1643, Prince Maurice laid siege to Dartmouth, and 
instead of finding it an easy conquest as he expected, 
the garrison did not surrender until the 4th of October, 
after a month's siege, in which he lost many of his men 
by sickness, and especially Sir James Chudleigh who 
died of a wound he then received. The command was 
entrusted by the Prince to Col. Seymour, a gentleman 
of the county,! and the garrison was esteemed of such 
importance, that the fortifications were strengthened, and 
the old Castle, a Fort called Gallant's Bower at the 
mouth of the harbour, Kingswear Castle, Paradise Fort 
and Mount Flag.gon were strongly garrisoned. Town- 
stall church also, and Mount Boone were well manned, 
and had about 30 guns mounted ; the west gate was 
fortified, and in the whole there were more than 60 
pieces of Ordnance. || In 1644, when the Queen em- 
it Lysons. * Ibid, f Vicars. 
|| Lysons. " Gallant's Bower was a fortificatiou on the summit 
of the hill over Dartmouth Castle. This and the tower on the 
opposite side are supposed to have been the points to which the 
chain was attached in the reign of Edward IV. Mount Flaggon 
is supposed to have been an eminence overhanging the town, nearly 
about its centre ; Paradise Fort still remains, being a large circu- 
lar tower, on a point of land to the south of the town, between it 
and the casile." Ibid. 



24 



barked at Falmouth for France, several ships of the Par- 
liamentary navy were stationed by Warwick, their Ad- 
miral, in Torbay, to intercept her passage ; but the 
wind was so favourable, that, although one of his frigates 
approached so near as to discharge several shots at her 
Majesty's ships, she escaped and landed the next day on 
the shores of Britanny. j In 1645, Lord Goring's Ca- 
valry, to the number of nearly 5000, were quartered at 
Totnes, Newton and Chudleigh, and when his proposals 
for pacification were unsuccessful, he took shipping at 
Dartmouth, and proceeded to France, to obtain fresh 
troops for the ensuing spring. The Royal forces, how- 
ever, were soon after augmented by fresh re-inforcements, 
particularly by infantry from Dartmouth ; but on the 
11th of January Sir Thomas Fairfax took possession of 
Totnes, and called together, by proclamation, about 3000 
adherents of the Parliament, and formed another regi- 
ment. On the 12th he sent two regiments to besiege 
Dartmouth, and on the 18th arrived himself with the 
remainder of his forces, and commenced storming the 
town that night. Vice-Admiral Batten who was cruis- 
ing along the coasts of Torbay and Dartmouth with his 
squadron, assisted in the contest. Col Pride took Mount 
Boone; Col. Fortescue obtained possession of Townstall 
church ; Col. Hamond took the west gate; and the town, 
castle and Kingsweare fort surrendered the following 
day. Two ships of war fell into the hands of the con- 
querors ; and Sir Hugh Pollard the governor of the 
town ; Sir Henry Cary, governor of Kingsweare fort ; 
the Earl of Newport, Col. Seymour, and the whole gar- 
rison were made prisoners.* The attack and the de- 
fence were equally brave, and Fairfax treated the prison- 
ers with his usual clemency and kindness. On the 21st 
he returned to Totnes, and was at Newton on the 24th ; 
after which he marched to the north of the county. 

In 1670, Charles II. visited Dartmouth on his return 
by sea from Plymouth, and thence proceeded to Exeter. 
From this time nothing interesting occurs in the history 
of the district we have selected, until the Revolution of 
1688. As Torbay occupies so conspicuous a place in the 
% Moore's Devon. * Lysons. 



25 



accounts of this event, we shall devote some space to its 
description. On the 21st of October, the Prince of 
Orange, attended with a fleet of fifty one vessels of war, 
eighteen fire-ships and about three hundred transports, 
and with an army of nearly thirty thousand men, sailed 
from Helvoetsluys, for the English shores. Immediately 
after his departure a violent storm arose which consider- 
ably damaged the squadron, and obliged them to return 
to port to repair his losses. By great energy and perse- 
verance the fleet was refitted in about eight days, and 
again set sail under the command of Admiral Herbert. 
When they reached the Nore, they were noticed by the 
English fleet under the earl of Dartmouth, but it offered 
no opposition. As the squadron passed Dover and Calais, 
it extended in a line across the channel, within a league 
of each coast ; and on the 4th of November it anchored 
safely in Torbay. This was the anniversary of the 
Prince's birth and marriage, and he therefore wished to 
render it more memorable by landing on the British 
shores. The preparations, however, could not be com- 
pleted that night, but on the following day, the Prince 
attended by his principal officers proceeded to raise his 
standard on Brixham Quay. At this time Brixham 
contained but few houses, and the good people, asto- 
nished at the appearance of such an armament, are said 
to have stood in silent wonder on the beach. At last 
William approached the shore and demanded whether he 
was welcome, when after some further pause, he was 
asked what was his business, and his explanation being 
considered satisfactory,* he was, after a little more 
parley, informed that he was welcome. "If I am then" 
said the Prince, " come and carry me ashore," and im- 
mediately a little man, one of the party, plunged into 
the Mater and carried him triumphantly ashore to the 

* Spence mentions that when the people were apprehensive as to 
the nature of his visit, the Prince addressed them thus in his 
broken English, "mine people, minegoot people, he not alarmed, 
I am only come for your good, for all your goods." There has 
heen an instance of a more unhappy addition than in the case of 
the concluding S. 

D 



26 



steps of the pier.f On his landing the inhabitants are 
said to have presented their illustrious visitor with the 
following address, — 

" And, please your Majesty King William, 

You're welcome to Brixham Quay 

To eat huckhorn and drink bohea, 

Along with we, 
And please your Majesty King William." 
The landing occupied three days, and the flag ship car- 
ried English colours with the following motto, The 
Protestant Religion and Liberties of England ; and 
underneath, I will maintain it. On the 7th the Prince 
sent an officer and some troops to search Tor Abbey and 
other houses, inhabited by the Roman-catholic gentry, 
for arms and horses. In the Harleian Miscellany, vol. i. 
p. 449, the following anecdote is related by one who was 
present in the fleet; " nor shall it be forgotten that 
there was a priest and some others upon a watch tower 
(at Tor Abbey) when we arrived at Torbay, to discover 
what our fleet was ; and discovering white flags on some 
of our men of war, the ignorant priest concluded we 
were French, which they had so long expected with 

•f This is a very different kind of landing to that which North- 
cote has assigned to William in his celebrated Picture. The sub- 
sequent history of the " little man" who carried the king on shore, 
is rather singular. Having a short ambling pony, which was com- 
monly used in fish-jolting, he rode bare-headed before the Prince 
to Newton and afterwards to Exeter, and so pleased him by his 
zeal, that be told him to come to him to court, when he should 
be seated on the throne, and he would make a great man of him. 
He also gave him a line under his hand, which was to be his pass- 
port into the royal presence. In due time, accordingly, the little 
man took his course to London, promising his townsmen that he 
should come back among them a Lord at least. When, however, 
he arrived there, some sharpers, who learnt his errand at the Inn 
where he put up, made our poor little Brixhamite gloriously drunk 
and kept him in that state for several successive weeks. During 
this time, one of the party, having obtained the passport went to 
Court, with the little man's tale in his mouth, and received a 
handsome present from the king. Our adventurer recovering him- 
self shortly afterwards, went to the Palace, without his card of 
admission and was repulsed as an impostor, and came back to 
Brixham, never to hold up his head again. X + Communicated by 
the Rev. H. F. Lyte. 



27 

great impatience ; and having laid up great provisions 
for their entertainment, the priest ordered all the chapel 
to sing Te Deum for the arrival of their forces. But 
being soon undeceived on our landing, we found the 
benefit of their provisions ; and instead of Votre servi- 
teur, Monsieur, they were entertained with Yeen 
Mynheer, can ye Dutch spraken ? Upon which they all 
ran away from the house, but the Lady Cary and a few 
old servants." The Prince himself proceeded on the 7th 
to Ford, near Newton, the residence of Sir William 
Courtenay, and it is said that his first proclamation was 
read from the base of the ancient cross at Newton, by 
the Rev. John Reynell, the minister of Woolborough. 
His park of artillery was stationed at the old encamp- 
ment on Milber Down, and his army on the adjacent 
heath. % The windows of the apartments which he oc- 
cupied at Ford overlook this down. On the 8th he 
commenced his march to Exeter, and the whole trans- 
action, from his landing at Brixham to his departure from 
Devon, was conducted with such excellent discipline and 
good conduct that the people flocked to his standard in 
considerable numbers. The procession from Newton to 
Exeter was truly splendid : In the van the Earl of Mac- 
clesfield with two hundred horse, richly accoutred and 
mounted on Flanders steeds, with head pieces and body 
armour, and attended by two hundred negroes wearing 
embroidered caps with white fur, and plumes of feathers. 
Next in succession were two hundred Finlanders in bear 
skins, with black armour, and broad swords ; and after 
these fifty gentlemen and as many pages to attend the 
Prince's banner which was inscribed, God and the 
Protestant Religion. Fifty led war horses then fol- 
lowed, preceding the Prince, who was mounted on a 
milk white charger in complete armour highly-wrought, 
with a plume of white ostrich feathers in his helmet, and 
forty-two running footmen by his side, and attended by 
a body-guard of two hundred gentlemen and pages 
mounted. These were followed in succession by three 
thousand Swiss, five hundred volunteers, six hundred 

X Mr. Taylor's paper in the Archseologia v. xix, 



28 



guards completely armed, and the remaining* part of the 
army ; the whole amounting to thirty thousand.* 

It is perhaps worthy of remark that the flag placed in 
the bow of the first barge in the procession of opening 
the Exeter Canal a few years ago, was the identical ban- 
ner under which William the third landed at Brixham ; 
it then became the property of a member of the Watson 
family who was engaged in his retinue, and it has passed 
into the hands of its present possessor by an inter-mar- 
riage with the Watsons. 

On the 20th July, 1690, the French fleet was at an- 
chor in Torbay, and all the forces of Devon were drawn 
up to prevent their landing. Some of their galleys drew 
off from the squadron, and " made towards a weak, 
unfortified place, called Teignmouth, and coming very 
near, and having played the cannon of their galleys upon 
the town, and shot near two hundred great shot there- 
into, to drive away the poor inhabitants, they landed 
about seventeen hundred of their men, and began to 
plunder and fire the towns of East and West Teignmouth, 
which consists of about three hundred houses, and in the 
space of three hours ransackt and plundered the said 
towns, and a village called Shaldon, lying on the other 
side of the river, and burnt and destroyed one hundred 
and sixteen houses, together with eleven ships and barks 
that were in the harbour." { They also violated the 
churches, killed the cattle in the streets, and altogether 
occasioned a loss of £ 1 1 ,000. 

Nor must it be forgotten that the little squadron of the 
" Governours and Company of Merchants of London, 
trading to the East Indies," which was the immediate 
although feeble origin of that power which now holds 
sovereign sway over the continent of India, sailed from 
Torbay on their first expedition, on the 2nd of May, 
1601, having been detained by some casualty in their 
passage down the channel. § 

* Harleian Miscell. Moore's Devon. 
X See the Brief, anno 2. William and Mary, given in Carrington's 
Guide to Teignmouth ; and Burnet's Hist, of his own Times 
vol. 2. &c. 
§ Cooley-'s Hist, of Maritime and Inland Discovery: Cab. Cyclop. 



29 

In August 1/80, when the combined squadrons of 
France and Spain under D'Orvilliers appeared off Ply- 
mouth, and captured the Ardent 64, and when the great- 
est alarm prevailed on account of the Dock Yard and 
prisoners of war collected at that port, the Home-fleet 
under the command of Sir Charles Hardy sought safety in 
Torbay ; and we have already mentioned that during the 
late war it was the principal station of the splendid fleet 
of Earl St. Vincent. 

In 1806, the Princess of Wales visited Torquay, and 
partook of refreshments in the old furze-house in the 
Warren. In testimony of this visit, and in allusion to 
the subsequent political affairs with which she was asso- 
ciated, a tablet was erected in the furze-house^ with the 
following inscription, — 

Pause ! stranger, in this favoured cell, 

And list the tale a stone can tell 

Of Her, who flew with nuptial care 

To grace the hand of Britain's heir ; 

Who, beauteous alien, found relief — • 

Midst publick wrongs and private grief, 

— Not in a Nation's fostering care, — 

But in a calm asylum here. f 
, "Here also arrived," says Mr. M'Enery, after speak- 
ing of the visit of the Prince of Orange, " but under far 
different auspices, — to lay down a sceptre where William 
came to find one — the Emperor Napoleon. On opening 
the bay, his adversity did not blind him to the attractions 
of a hostile country, now proudly spread out before his 
eye. Nor, though on the eve of a second captivity 5 did 
he shrink from recalling to his mind its similitude to the 
place of his late detention ; * What a beautiful country,' 
exclaimed he ; ' it very much resembles thePorto Fer- 
rago in Elba.' During his sojourn, presents of fruit 
were sent on board from the Tor Abbey Gardens ; and 
these generous attentions of an English gentleman, whose 
estates were often menaced by his invading fleet were 
fully appreciated by the fallen Emperor. "§ The Belle* 

f This inscription is now, we believe, entirely obliterated. 

§ Carrington's Guide to Teignmouth. 



30 



rophon, Capt. Maitland, having" Napoleon on board, 
anchored in Torbay on Monday the 24th July 1815, and 
early in the morning of the following Wednesday, sailed 
for Plymouth. He was accompanied by Bertrand, Sa- 
vary, Montholon, Las Casas, Gorgaud, Lallemand, and 
others, and a number of distinguished Polish officers. 
On Sunday, 6th August, the Bellerophon with Buona- 
parte, and the To tin ant with Lord Keith, sailed for 
Plymouth to join the Northumberland, and having fallen 
in with her in the channel, the fleet anchored off Tor- 
bay ; and at 12 o'clock on the following day, the em- 
peror embarked on boaid the latter vessel for St. Helena. || 
On these important occasions, Torbay presented a most 
animating scene, and was literally " instinct with life." 
Napoleon was frequently seen through the garter-ports 
and gangway of the Bellerophon, as he promenaded thef 
deck, dressed in the uniform of the imperial guard ; and 
the ship was daily surrounded by vessels, yachts and 
boats of every description, full of persons from all parts 
of the coast, anxious to behold the Hero of modern 
Europe. 

" 'Twas then, the captives of Britannia's war 
Here for their lovely southern climes afar 
In bondage pined ; the spell-deluded throng, 
Dragg'd at ambition's chariot-wheels so long, 
To die ; — 

Yes ! they whose march had rock'd the ancient thrones 
And temples of the world, — the deepening tones 
Of whose advancing trumpet from repose 
Had startled nations, waking in their woes, — 
Were prisoners here; and there were some whose dreams 
Were of sweet homes, by chainless mountain streams, 
And of the vine-clad hills, and many a strain 
Of festal melody of Loire and Seine ; 



|| Monthly Magazine ; Sir Richard Phillips's Series. An engraved 
Portrait of Napoleon, from a drawing by his Chamberlain Lieut. 
Col. De Planet, while on board the Bellerophon, with a view of 
Berry Head and the Bellerophon at anchor was published almost 
immediately after his arrival. We have a Copy of it in our pos- 
session. 



31 



And of those Mothers who had watched and wept, 
When on the field th' unshelter'd conscript slept 
Bathed with the midnight dews."* 

On Sunday July 20, 1828, his present Majesty, when 
Duke of Clarence, visited Dartmouth in the " Royal 
Sovereign" Yacht, and landed under a royal salute, at 
the New-ground steps, whence he proceeded to Mount 
Galpin, the residence of A. H. Holdsworth, Esq. the 
Governor of the Castle. He inspected the harbour and 
entertained a select party at dinner in the evening on 
board the royal yacht. At 9, on the following morning, 
his Majesty struck his flag as Lord High Admiral, and 
rehoisted it on board the Lightning Steamer, and with 
his suite, accompanied by five revenue cruisers and the 
Meteor Steam vessel, proceeded to Torbay, where he 
was met by a numerous assemblage of yachts. He landed 
at the New Quay at Brixham under a salute from the 
batteries and from the vessels in the bay, and the stone 
on which William III. placed his foot when he landed in 
Torbay in 1688, was removed from the Old Quay to this 
place, to have the additional honour of receiving the 
second Prince of that name who had dignified Brixham 
by his presence. Triumphal arches were erected in the 
town, and a procession of the inhabitants, attended by 
a band of music, was drawn up to receive his royal high- 
ness. On his landing, he was greeted with the most 

* Mrs. Hemans. 

On the day appointed, soon after this event, for a general Thanks- 
giving, Dr. Booker, a gentleman long known to the literary world 
for his talents and accomplishments, preached a Sermon in the Parish 
Church of Tormohun, from Daniel iv- 19, 20; in which he drew 
a parallel between the character, conduct, and fall of Nebuchad- 
nezzar and Napoleon, which was subsequently published with a 
dedicatory address to him who was the subject of it: The candour 
of the work was worthy its motto, — 

Tros Tyriusve mihi nullo discrimine habebit, 
but however much ingenuity and zeal this production may evince 
it partakes too largely of the intolerance of party-spirit ; and the 
dedication, in particular, from the biting sarcasm of its satire, was 
not likely to effect the reformation desired. "Dogmatic Virulence 
never made a convert," 



32 



enthusiastic cheers, and while he stood on the stone 
alluded to, the Rev. H. F. Lyte, on the part of the in- 
habitants, presented him with a box of heart of oak, — 
a portion of the original timber of the old Totnes bridge, 
lined with velvet, and enclosing a piece of the stone in- 
serted in it, bearing the following inscription ; 

" The portion of the stone on which King William the 
Third first placed his foot, when he landed in these 
realms at Brixham, November 5, 1688, is humbly pre- 
sented by the inhabitants thereof, to his royal highness, 
the Lord High Admiral of the United Kingdom, in com- 
memoration of his visit to Torbay, 21st. July 1828." 

Mr. Lyte, at the same, time read the following ad- 
dress, — "To his Royal Highness, Prince William Henry, 
Duke of Clarence, Lord High Admiral of the United 
Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, &c. &c, 

" The humble address of the inhabitants of Brixham, 
Torbay, 

" May it please your Royal Highness ; — We, the in- 
habitants of Brixham, beg leave humbly to approach 
your Royal Highness with our congratulations on your 
safe arrival in Torbay, for the first time since your ap- 
pointment to the distinguished office of Lord High Ad- 
miral of the United Kingdom. We rejoice to see the 
heir and representative of royalty so actively engaged in 
promoting the naval interests of this country, and we 
sincerely pray that life and health may long be given to 
your Royal Highness, for the completion of the important 
objects you have in hand. We felicitate ourselves on 
having this opportunity of expressing our respect and 
attachment to your Highness's person; and though un- 
able to vie with others in the splendour of the reception 
we offer you, we yield to none in loyal and dutiful devo- 
tion towards yourself and every member of your illus- 
trious house. We humbly beg leave to present this our 
respectful address in a box of heart of oak, 800 years 
old, containing a small portion of the stone on which 
King William the Third placed his foot when he first 
landed in England ; and we shall from hencefotth value 
this stone the more highly from its having had the honour 
of bearing your Royal Highness's person, when you stepr 
ped ashore this day." 



33 



To this, his Royal Highness made the following most 
appropriate reply. 

" Gentlemen, I am very thankful for your congratu- 
lations on my arrival in this beautiful and magnificent 
Bay, in the execution of the high office I now hold under 
the gracious goodness of his Majesty. I feel most sen- 
sibly your approbation of my conduct in promoting, as I 
ought, the naval interests of this country. I receive with 
perfect satisfaction the expressions of loyalty and dutiful 
devotion to the King, and accept with sincere pleasure 
the box of heart of oak, which is, and ought to be, the 
pride, as it is the salvation, of our country. Recollecting 
as an Englishman, thebenefitconferred on this truly happy 
island by the landing of William the third in this bay, 
I shall ever preserve as a precious relic, the portion of 
stone on which King William the third placed his foot 
when his Majesty first landed in England, 

William. 
To the Inhabitants of Brixham." 

His Majesty having re-embarked proceeded to Torquay 
Roads, and appeared off the Town, but did not land, 
although preparations were made for his reception ; and 
having again inspected and sailed round the bay, attended 
by the Steamers and yachts, he departed for Dartmouth. 
A brilliant illumination took place in the evening in that 
town, and on the following morning his Majesty left the 
port on his way to Plymouth. 

On the 1st of August 1828, Queen Adelaide, then 
Duchess of Clarence, visited Torquay. Her Majesty was 
presented with an address by the inhabitants and visitors, 
and was received with the usual demonstrations of respect. 
She was escorted by a troop of the South Devon Yeo- 
manry Cavalry, under the command of Major W. H. 
Tonkin, K. C. M ; &c. &c. who has had the honour' 
of attending different branches of the Royal Family, with 
this troop, on three several occasions. 



PART II. 

TORQUAY, 
3Efcf Climate, aitXf Znitibxtion** 



" ( Lo ! time shall come, when on yon throng'd parade 
' Shall groups assemble, — swains and many a maid, 
' And elder dames and sires, in converse gay, 

* Breathing sweet health fresh-wafted from the bay j 

* And yonder hills all boasting purest air 

' Shall smile with villas and with mansions fair ; — 

* Adorn'd with gardens or with paddocks green 

* These scatter'd round shall on the heights be seen;— 
' While Commerce trading to a distant world, 

* Her streamers flying and her sails unfurl'd, 

' Shall, when the winds awake the waves from sleep, 

' Spot the bright bosom of the refluent deep,' 

Thus sings the muse, — and were her strains divine 

Propitious days, Torquay, should hence be thine, — 

Where Nature not august alone appears, 

But, fraught with wealth, her beauteous head she rears. 

Behold these rocks in dazzling splendour shine, 

Each rock in marble an exhaustless mine ! 

Here with delight the checker'd fields behold 

While Autumn tints the ripening corn with gold ; 

Or while the storms of winter howl around, 

And not a blooming plant or leaf be found 

In other scenes, — in this mild clime the rose 

In all its beauty, all its fragrance blows, 

Here Venus' fav'rite tree is smiling seen 

Clad in a never-fading vest of green. — 

What marvel then, that stricken sufferers come 

From distant climes thy shores to make their home, 

To sojourn here while wintry months pass by 

And icy storms abroad terrific fly 

In their own country ? — for in calmest sway 

Does Winter reign around the blest Torquay." 

Torquay; A Poem by T. W. Booker, 1815, 







CLIMATE OF TORQUAY. 35 



Torquay is situated in a retired and 
capacious cove of Torbay, about two 
miles from the promontory of Hope's 
Nose, which forms its northern boun- 
dary, and is distant 23 miles from the city of Exeter. It 
occupies an irregular but singularly-beautiful site, 
presenting the appearance of a natural amphitheatre, 
while the Bay from many places resembles in form and 
outline a magnificent extended lake. The greater part of 
the town has a south-western aspect, and is remarkably 
protected from the north and east winds by a range of 
lofty hills in which it is embosomed. These hills form 
the southern angle of the commencement of the lime* 
stone chain, which we have already noticed in a preceding 
page ; they present all the peculiarities of that formation, 
— now being divided into deep ravines, now expanding 
into broad and fertile meadows, — and open with singular 
beauty, as they approach the coast, to form the valley of 
Torquay. 

Within a period embracing little more than half a cen- 
tury, this place has risen from utter insignificance, and is 
now one of the most frequented watering places in the 
south of England. At the timefirst mentioned, it presented 
no indications of advancement, and being retired from 
the common tracts of commercial intercourse, it was 
known only to those resident in its neighbourhood ; or 
to the tourist who visited it for the enchanting scenery 
with which it then abounded. The sea, at this period, 
flowed up to the site of the present Strand, and the 
beach was surrounded by a few small and straggling 
houses, inhabited principally by fishermen, who had 
constructed in the south-eastern angle of the creek a 
temporary pier for the security of their craft. On this 
beach vessels and fishing-boats were built, and the hills 
above it were rocky and uncultivated. It was indeed, a 
mere fishing village, and in the sketches which were 
taken at the time, we can recognise few of the present 
features of Torquay, except the general outline of the 
cove, and the gable ends of the old manor-house of Tor- 
wood rising venerably in the distance. 

About the close of the last century when Torbay be- 



36 CLIMATE OF TORQUAY. 

came important as a naval rendezvous, the salubrious 
climate of Torquay appears to have excited attention, 
and it is, we believe, from this period that we must 
date its rise and progress. When, therefore, subsequent 
observation had confirmed the testimony of public 
opinion in its favour, houses were erected for the accom- 
modation of the invalids who annually migrate from the 
colder parts of the island to this county to enjoy the 
delightful climate of one southern shores. While the 
character of Torquay was thus established in regard to 
climate and other local advantages, it did not fail to 
excite admiration by its natural attractions. Its sheltered 
situation, the dryness of its atmosphere, its general free- 
dom from fogs and the equable state of temperature 
which it enjoys, at once gave it a superiority over the 
other watering places on this coast, and induced many 
families to select it as a place of permanent residence. 
The erection of the Pier, in 1803, by conferring on it a 
tone of importance materially tended to promote the 
welfare of the little colony. This undertaking was exe- 
cuted, under the protection of an act of Parliament, at 
the sole expense of the late Sir Lawrence Palk Bart, who 
aided the advancement of Torquay with the zeal and 
energy that he devoted to every public measure in which 
he engaged. 

Torquay, from the sea, resembles an extended cres- 
cent, — the back ground of which is here and there 
studded with cottages and crowned with woods. The pic- 
turesque elevations thus formed, have all, more or less, 
been made available to the restless spirit of improvement. 
Each succeding year has regularly brought its increase 
and while the place daily grows in size and population, 
it is to be hoped that it will not. overgrow. 

No watering place in the south of England possesses 
so many peculiar advantages in regard to climate and 
situation as Torquay. This asseition is not made on in- 
sufficient grounds ; the evidence which we shall lay be- 
fore the reader will be the best proof of the equity of 
that decision. It is not an easy task to enter on the 
subject of climate as applied to a place singularly defi- 
cient in the necessary materials for such an inquiry: and 



CLIMATE OF TORQUAY. 37 

more particularly as the question of climate in general 
has been less regarded, and perhaps less understood in 
this country, than any other connected with the public 
health. Until a recent period, we knew little more of 
what may be termed the philosophy of climate, than we 
could collect from the writings of antiquity. Its benefi- 
cial agency in the treatment of disease was appreciated 
before the grand principles of medical science were esta- 
blished, and it was well known that a residence on the 
sea-coast exerted a most beneficial influence on the ani- 
mal economy. Nor was it, on the other hand, less un- 
derstood thtit a change of scene, especially in a district 
abounding in natural attractions, acted directly and at 
once on the mental constitution ; it was known to the 
old physicians that the mind is diverted by the grand and 
varied majesty of the ocean and at the same time invigor- 
ated by its refreshing breezes. The nature of climate as 
a remedial agent has a peculiar interest for the inhabitants 
of this island, since it is computed that consumption alone 
destroys annually one fourth of our population. Our 
afflicted countrymen have sought to benefit by the in- 
fluence of climate in different parts of the south of Eu- 
rope : but the reputation of these places as residences 
for invalids, and particularly for those labouring under 
pulmonary disease has been much over-rated. Fashion, 
however, on this point, is at length declining, and we 
are beginning to discover that the mere intrinsic advan- 
tages of an Italian atmosphere cannot compensate for the 
want of English comforts, and for the absence of those 
friends by whom the invalid is cherished and consoled. 
The excitement which is beneficial to one class of per- 
sons is frequently injurious to others, and the consumptive 
patient in undertaking a continental journey is exposed 
to most of the evils, while he can enjoy few even of the 
moral advantages, of foreign travel. When, therefore, 
we consider these facts in conjunction with the uncertain 
chances of benefit and the dangers of protracted hope, 
and compare them with the relative circumstances of the 
invalid in England, we may say with Yorick, " Where, 
then, my dear countrymen, are you going?" If the 
opinion be correct that where no organic changes exist, 
E 



38 CLIMATE OF TORQUAY. 

the climate of Italy may be beneficial ; and that, in the 
advanced stages of pulmonary affection, it is more likely 
to accelerate the disease, — "it shows," says Dr. Johnson, 
that medical men incur a fearful responsibility in propo- 
sing- to the parents and friends of invalids, a measure 
which is fraught with danger, involved in uncertainty, 
and too often attended by the most destructive sacrifices 
of the feelings, as well as of the finances of the parties con- 
cerned. Those who have not witnessed lingering illnesses 
and death-bed scenes in distant climes, can form no just 
conception of the tide of mournful emotions which daily 
rushes over the mind of the dying stranger in a foreign 
land. Death is deprived of more than half his terrors by 
the sympathy of friends, and the consciousness that our 
ashes shall be deposited in the land that gave us birth, 
near those whom, in life, we cherished, loved or revered! 
This may be a prejudice — perhaps even a weakness ; yet 
it is natural — it is instinctive, — and the instincts of nature 
can seldom be entirely repulsed even by the most philo- 
sophic minds. Heaven forbid that on such a momentous 
question as this, involving the livesof my fellow-creatures, 
I should throw the weight of a feather into the scale 
against the preservation, or even the prolongation of 
human existence ; hut I have lived too long, and seen 
too much, not to know the errors of discrimination and 
the fallacies of hope, that send pulmonary invalids from 
the gloomy skies, but comfortable abodes of England, to 
lands where comfort is unknown, even by name, and 
whose atmospheres cannot work miracles, whatever their 
saints may do. . The balance, indeed, between perma- 
nent benefit and blighted expectation, or even actual iu- 
jury, is so nearly poized, that a breath may turn the 
scale. That breath is as often one of error as of judg- 
ment. The consequences are obvious."* 

While, therefore, the attention which has been paid 
to the physical characters of climate has decided the real 
claims of foreign residence, it has likewise shown that 
there exist in our own island and within our reach, so 

* See Dr. James Johnson's excellent little Vol. on chaDge of 
Air ; a work which has been not inaptly called the second "Senti- 
mental Journey." 



CLIMATE OF TORQUAY. 39 

many favoured places, that the invalid is no longer under 
the necessity of travelling abroad in search of a treasure, 
which, he is far more likely to enjoy at home. Hence, 
within the last few years, the English Avatering-places 
have risen into fresh importance, and every corner of 
the island has been explored in search of new asylums of 
health. The climate of Devonshire has been long and 
highly celebrated for its salubrity. " Its superiority in 
this instance to other counties" says Mr. Moore in his 
history of Devon, " arises in part from its abounding 
with hills, but chiefly from its vicinity to the sea. The 
wind, two-thirds of the year from the west and south- 
west, crossing an immense extent of ocean, is regularly 
warmer than in more inland counties ; and being seldom 
languid, serves to purify the air and to correct the ex- 
tremes both of heat and cold. In summer the intense- 
ness of the former is moderated by strong and refreshing 
breezes from the sea and hills, and in winter the frosts 
in the southern portion of the county are not so severe, 
nor does the snow lie so long as in other districts. Even 
in December, a languid sort of spring is observable, and 
shrubs that will not live in the colder parts of the island 
flourish here."f 

Having thus adjusted the preliminaries we shall now 
proceed to consider the climate of Torquay. 

The mean temperature of the south coast of England 
during the winter months is from one to two degrees 
above that of London ; of the south-west ( including the 
south of Devon ) from three to four, and of Penzance, 
five and a half. This is the arrangement of Dr. Clark, 
the south coast extending from Hastings to Portland, and 
the south-west from the latter to Cornwall ; and the cal- 
culations being the result of his extensive experience, 
may be implicitly relied on. The mean temperature of 
Torquay during the six cold months in the last season, 
1831-32, as deduced from our Tables, was 47° 15, and 
during the months of Dec. Jan. and Feb. 44° 88, 
The mean at 8 A. M. during the same months, was 
44" 23 ; in the seasons 1827-8, 1828-9, that of Under- 
cttff, was 44°. 5 ; Gosport 42°. 5, and Penzance 45°. 7. 
f Moore's Hist, of Devon, vol. i. 



40 CLIMATE OF TORQUAY. 

In the three first months of 1832, the mean temperature 
of Torquay, at 8 A. M. was 45° 50 ; during the same 
period in 1828, that of Underciiff was 45° 4 ; Penzance, 
45° 7 5 London 41° 5, while Hastings at nine, was only 
43° 6. Of course due allowance will be made for the 
difference of the seasons compared. In these observations 
it will be seen that we have taken the results of the past 
season ; the winters of 1829-30 and 30-31, mention- 
ed in our tables, cannot be admitted as evidences of 
the climate of Torquay; they were unusually severe on 
this coast generally, and equalled, if not surpassed, any 
of which we have record in this place ; yet the mean of 
the six months in the first season was 43°. 03, and in 
the second 46°. 13. 

It may be useful to institute a comparison between the 
winter temperature of Torquay and some other places, 
well known as residences for invalids ; we shall therefore 
again refer to Dr. Clark's excellent tables, to which we 
are indebted for all the comparative estimates in this ar- 
ticle. Here, also, we mu-t allow for the difference of 
the years compared. The following are given in the or- 
der of superiority, Madeira 59'. 50; Rome 48°. 90, 
Nice 47". 82, Penzance 45°. 8 ; Torquay 44 \ 88 ; Flo- 
fence, 44°. 30 ; Underciiff 44\ 5 ; Bordeaux 42° 08 ; 
Cheltenham 40\ 60 ; Sidmouth 40\ 43 ;— Edinburgh, 
39 : . 40; and London 39'. 12.* 

With respect to the temperature of the different months 
in the cold season, the greatest difference, relatively with 
London, appears to occur in this order ; December, Jan- 
uary, April, March, February and November: but on 
this point we speak with caution. In respect to the 
range of monthly teo^perature for the six cold months, 
Torquay exceeds Gosport and Sidmouth by 38°. and 

* To Penzance and Underciiff, are given the mean of the winters 
of 1827-8, 1828-9, as deduced from Dr. Clark's second odition, 
p. 39, note ; and to Torquay, that of 1831-2. 

We had included Montpelier in these comparisons, but have now 
omitted it by the advice of Dr. Clark, who has shown its over- 
praised climate to be so decidedly bad that it is useless to place it 
with those mentioned, 



CLIMATE OF TORQUAY 



41 



40°. respectively, in the mean of the lowest extremes ; 
in February surpassing the former by 16 \ It also ex- 
ceeds London by 38°. for the six months. There is on 
the other hand a difference on this point, of 4°. between 
Torquay and Penzance, 10°. between Torquay and Rome, 
and 37°. between Torquay and Nice, in favour of the 
latter places. It will be interesting to extend these ob- 
servations to the maximum temperature, and thus em- 
brace the highest and lowest extremes of the twenty-four 
hours. The result of this comparison is exceedingly 
curious ; the mean of Penzance and London being equal, 
and being exceeded by Torquay by 1°. only. Rome, 
Nice, and Gosport exceed Torquay by 40 \ 26°, and 5°-. 
in the order stated, and Sidmouth, the lowest of all, falls 
below it 18'. Hence while Penzance and Torquay sur- 
pass London by 42'. and 38'. respectively, in the mini- 
mum temperature of the whole season, the former does 
not exceed it in the maximum, and the latter only by 
a variation of one degree. Thus we may say that during 
the 6 cold months Penzance is seven and Torquay six 
degrees and a half warmer than London on an average 
during the night, and that they scarcely exceed it in the 
maximum of the day. The equality, however, is not 
regularly distributed throughout each month ; it appears 
to be in March, April and November that the maximum 
temperature of Penzance is Inferior to London and Tor- 
quay, while in the three iviyter months it rises above 
them and makes good the deficiency : — This equal pro- 
gression in the case of Torquay and Penzance is highly 
interesting and valuable. 

These remarks might be extended to some length, did 
our data embrace a more comprehensive field ; but as the 
season with which we have made the preceding compari- 
sons affords a better testimony of the climate of Torquay 
than either of the others we possess, it may be well to 
carry on the inquiry to a very important part of the sub- 
ject, — namely, the daily range of temperature and the 
variation of successive days. We must, however, be 
still considered to speak with reserve, for it is really 
impossible to form a fair estimate of any climate, from 
the results of a single season, however accurate. With 



42 CLIMATE OF TORQUAY. 

respect, then, to the first of these subjects, the mean 
daily range of Torquay for the six cold months is 4°. 1, 
while that of Leith is 4°. 5 ; Penzance 5°. 5 ; Nice 
8°. 1 ; London 9\ 1 ; and Rome, 10 \ 4. This advan- 
tage of Torquay is still more striking in the case of 
Sienna ; Nantes is nearly on a par with it ; while the 
superiority of Torquay again appears over Geneva, 
Pau, and Naples ; indeed in the respect of diurnal 
temperature, it is well known that the south of Europe 
has great disadvantages ; in fact, Dr. Clark observes, 
"it is its leading fault." 

In steadiness of temperature from day to day, Torquay 
maintains a high superiority. During the six cold months 
of the season 1829-30 the mean variation of successive 
days for the whole season was 3'. 07 ; and in 1831-32, 
only 2°. 56. The mean of Madeira for the same months, 
as calculated from Dr. Clark's Table, is 1°. 29 ; Nice, 
2°. 71; Naples, 2°. 90; Rome, 3°. 10 ; Penzance, 
3°. 37 ; Pau, 3°. 63 ; and London, 4°. 29. Hence we 
see that the variation in favour of Torquay over Penzance 
does not amount to 1°. while it is exceeded by Madeira 
by 1°. 27 only. It is, moreover, worthy of remark that 
our calculations for Torquay embrace the whole variation 
of the twenty -four hours, and comprise three periods of 
morning, afternoon and night, as denoted by the register 
thermometer ; whereas those for Nice and Naples extend 
only from sun-rise to 2 p. m. those of Rome to 9, and 
Madeira to 10 p. m. 

The difference between the mean variations of the day 
and night during the severe season of 1829-30 did not 
amount to the half of a degree ; and the mean of the ex- 
treme variations between the minimum of the night and 
the temperature of 8, on the following mornings, during 
the same season as shown by Table vii. was 9°. The 
same result is given in the case of the three winter 
months in that year ; — in 1829-30 it was 9\ 1; and in 
1831-32, 10'. 

In the following page we introduce onr Thermome- 
trical Tables for Torquay, during the six cold 
months of three successive seasons. 

Fahrenheit's Register Thermometer. N. exp. 



CLIMATE OF TORQUAY. 



43 







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46 



CLIMATE OP TORQUAY. 




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~ 00 CM 


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■N <N CO 

00 00 CC 


c 

c 

X 


OH(N 

TTT 

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X GO 00 



CLIMATE OF TORQUAY. 47 

The facts shown in the preceding tables are highly im- 
portant and deserve the serious consideration of the 
physician. To the consumptive patient the equal pro- 
gression of temperature which this place enjoys during 
that half of the year by which he is most aifected, is in- 
valuable, as the advantages thus gained are not dimi- 
nished by the counteracting influence of storms or ex- 
cessive humidity ; nor has Torquay any peculiarities in 
the elements of its climate which depreciate from their 
value. 

We have no data to show what quantity of rain falls 
annually at this place, but although the climate of the 
south of Devon is generally humid, there are many cir- 
cumstances connected with Torquay Avhich render it free 
from this objection. Its situation at the opening of an 
extended series of limestone hills, and its position about 
midway between the two rivers Dart and Teign, are pe- 
culiarly calculated to render its atmosphere drier than 
the rest of the district. It is also well known that very 
little care is required here to guard against the oxydation 
of iron, an evil constantly observed at Sidmouth and 
other places on the coast, and particularly noticed at 
Penzance. It may be seen too, in our daily experience, 
that the roads quickly regain their dryness after rain ; 
and it is a matter of common remark among agriculturists 
that the land parches very soon ; and that the country 
about Torquay requires rain, at least twice a week. These 
facts will be esteemed as decisive by the practical ob- 
server as a volume, of hygrometrical observations. We 
have no registers of the prevalence of different winds ; 
and, although the indications of the thermometer are, 
at all times, more indeterminate than the actual state of 
the atmosphere as denoted by the feelings, we regret 
this want of materials the less since we are able to derive 
satisfactory evidence from other circumstances. The 
situation of Torquay gives the greater part of the town .a 
south-western aspect, and it is effectually sheltered from 
the north and east winds, and when the south-westerly 
gales set in, they do not prevail for any length of time as 
at Hastings ; and the thermometer, while they continue, 
is always high. The natural bulwarks of the place. 



48 CLIMATE OF TORQUAY. 

therefore, defend it from the cold winds, and those only 
to which it is open, are generally soft and temperate 
breezes from the south and west. A stranger, however, 
unaccustomed to the south-westerly gales, would be in- 
clined to form an indifferent opinion of a place affected 
by them ; for notwithstanding that they are warm, there 
is a cheerlessness while they prevail which is exceedingly 
oppressive. Although, however, they are severe and 
violent while they last, they leave a condition of the at- 
mosphere by no means unpleasing. The enchanting 
district around Torbay, refreshed by the rain by which 
they are accompanied, presents at these times a land- 
scape of the most varied beauty, and the still, blue sur- 
face of the bay with its shipping and fishing boats, gives 
it, as it were, the appearance of another scene and 
climate. 

Torquay is remarkably free from the sea-fog ; indeed 
while this coast generally is much visited by it, and fre- 
quently in some places for many days together, it is 
seldom seen at Torquay,, and then only for a few hours. 
This casual occurrence is not a subject of reproach, for 
the cloud arising from the sea, is " improperly called a 
fog ; in fact, it is in its nature and qualities totally diffe- 
rent from, 

* The Fog that o'er the marshes glides.' 

The sea-cluud, affects not the health of the inhabitants; 
Tiie moisture of the atmosphere, indeed, gives the beau- 
tiful verdure and increases the fertility of our fields."* 
Of unwholesome fogs as Mr. Pol whele remarks, we have 
as few in Devon as in any part of the island ; and in the 
neighbourhood of Torquay there is no cause by which 
they can be generated. The sea-cloud, however, is damp; 
and it must be admitted that the existence of such a dense 
vapour in the atmosphere for any length of time is an 
evil of some magnitude. At Sidmouth, we believe, they 
are very frequent, and in other parts of the south coast 
of the county ; — but at TorquaY, as we have before re- 
marked, they are not only rare, but seldom continue for 
more than a few hours. 

These facts give Torquay a decided advantage over 
* Pohvhele's Hist, of Devon. 



CLIMATE OP TORQUAY. 49 

Penzance, the- only British watering-place with which it 
has been commonly compared. Its shelter from cold 
winds, its peculiar position, and the comparative dry- 
ness of its atmosphere respectively tend to heighten this 
superiority, and more particularly in affections of the 
pulmonary organs. 

Another point of importance connected with the cli- 
mate of Torquay, is the relative position of the hills. 
The houses are built on the sides of these hills which 
form, as it were, a succession of natural terraces ; hence, 
the difference of temperature in different localities be- 
comes a matter of great consideration to the invalid ; for 
he may either breathe an atmosphere almost wholly ma- 
rine, or the less stimulating air of the country, or one 
partaking of the essential characters of both. The pa- 
rent village of Tor, situated on the high ground above 
I Torquay, is a good summer residence ; it is not so warm 
as Torquay in either season, nor is it so well protected ; 
it is also thought to be more damp and affected by winds. 
Some parts of the village, however, are well sheltered 
and dry, and enjoy a high winter temperature ; in these 
the consumptive patient may pass the winter, in many 
cases with advantage ; but the selection, as in other in- 
stances, requires discrimination. The village is situated 
on a part of that tongue of red marie which we have al- 
ready noticed. Tor-hill, however, the conspicuous ele- 
vation between the Church and the " Nursery," is com- 
posed of limestone, and is, we believe, insulated by the 
red marie. Another smaller mass of limestone near the 
junction of the Torquay, Teignmouth and Upton roads 
has also been pointed out to us as being skirted by that 
formation.* The vale of Upton, between Tor and St. 
Mary Church, has been much praised as likely to prove 
a favourable winter residence ; there can be no doubt that 
with a little judgment (unfortunately so seldom shown in 
matters of this kind), Upton might be made available in 
particular diseases and in different forms of the same 

* We may here, it is hoped, be allowed to admire Mr. Cony- 
beare's beautiful simile, when lie likens the general appearance of 
this deposit to the figure of a sea, composed of horizontal beds of 
red marie surrounding elevated islands of other formations. 

See Phillips and Conybeare's Outlines, B. ii. chap. 4. Sect. 1 
F 



50 CLIMATE OP TORQUAY. 

disease. The valley is formed by a range of limestone 
hills of considerable elevation. It is dry and well-pro* 
tected, and from its vicinity to Tor bay its climate par- 
takes sufficiently of the sea air without having an atmos- 
phere exclusively marine. There are, however, many 
other places in the neighbourhood of Torquay possess- 
ing great local advantages in the way of climate. We are 
inclined to think that the picturesque but neglected ham- 
let of Chelston enjoys a climate little inferior to Torquay. 
The many rural walks around it, sheltered from winds 
and abounding in the most enchanting scenery, would 
afford the invalid an extent and variety of exercise ground 
which he would seldom find elsewhere. J There are cases 
in which the mild soft air of Torquay, particularly in 
summer, is too enervating and relaxing ; in these instances 
St. Mary Church we think, is well worthy of attention. 
It is situated on a high ridge of limestone, at the dis- 
tance of about a mile and a half from the bay of Babbi- 
combe ; the air is bracing, and its salutary effects are 
fully proved by the robust health of its inhabitants. Bab- 
bicombe is much frequented by invalids, although the 
accommodations are not numerous. Its topography will 
be noticed fully in the proper place, but it may here be 
proper to remark that it lies open to the north-east and 
east, for which due allowance must be made in the se- 
lection of its climate. The village of Paignton, which is 
situated in one of the most fertile and productive parts of 
this district, is likely to afford a good summer residence. 
We speak of course, of that part of the village which is 
high and not exposed to the north and east winds, the 
greatest evils of its climate. This locality is, we are in- 
formed dry andtemperate, and consequently different from - 
that in the low neighbourhood of the marsh. The ac- 
commodations also within a few years have much improv- 
ed. These statements, however, are made from obser- \ 

♦ If our future residence in Torquay were not so limited, we 
should have instituted, -before this period, a series of meteorolo- J 
ffical experiments, in order to determine the peculiarities of the 
climates of Tor, Uptcn, and Chelston relatively with Torquay. 
Twelve months' simultaneous observation would decide this in- 
teresting question. We hope that some one more able may be 
induced to take up the inquiry. 



CLIMATE OF TORQUAY. 51 

vation, and deserve to be proved : The deficiency of 
meteorological data renders it impossible for us to put 
them to the test. 

It is a frequent remark that the heat of Torquay in 
summer is intolerably oppressive. This may be true to ; 
a certain extent, but it is inaccurate as a general asser- 
tion. There are parts of the town which when exposed 
to the full influence of a summer's sun at noon, areincont- 
venient even to those accustomed to a tropical climate. 
But, we may ask, what place, at that period, is wholly 
free from this objection ? The summer warmth of Torquay 
is entirely different from the sultry heat of large towns • 
and even when it is most affected by it, there are always 
cool and delightful shades in the immediate vicinity, 
within ten minutes' walk of our residences. It forms, 
indeed, one of the most valuable characteristics of this 
place, that at all seasons it is in the power of the invalid 
to take exercise on horse or foot along the highly beau- 
tiful country with which it is surrounded. There is 
scarcely a wind that blows from which some walk or 
ride is not defended ; this protection from winds is not 
confined to a small local extent, but is distributed over a 
large tract of country abounding in every variety of 
scenery ; and in summer the avenues of Tor Abbey, the 
shaded lane of Torwood, the breezy sands of the Abbey 
and of Meadfoot, are always refreshing. " In this re- 
spect," Dr. Clark observes, Torquay is superior to every 
place in oar island." 

We have now, it is presumed, said sufficient to enable 
a person unacquainted with Torquay to form a tolerably 
fair estimate of its climate, and to determine in what 
cases it is likely to be useful. It is idle to believe that 
this or any other climate can exercise a specific or even 
beneficial influence on every known form of disease. It 
was to dissipate this misconception and to counteract 
the pernicious tendency of the common opinion on th6 
subject, that Dr. Clark commenced his able and scien- 
tific publication ; and it is satisfactory to know that the 
class of patients sent annually to the watering places 
has been more judiciously selected since the appearance 
of his work, than on any former occasion. 



52 CLIMATE OP TORQUAY* 

It will, however, be expected that we should endea- 
vour to apply the preceding observations, and to show 
how far they hold good with the results of experience. 
With regard to the effects of this climate in pulmonary 
consumption, it must be confessed that it shares " the 
peril and the palm" with others of high reputation. It is 
indeed, a melancholy task to contemplate the gradual 
and fatal progress of the advanced stages of this disease. 
Under the most favourable circumstances of climate, the 
only advantage it seems to gain is that of time ; and al- 
though the fatal event be thus retarded, the disease holds 
on its course with a steadiness and certainty of purpose, 
which in some measure resembles the solemn march of 
destiny. It is to be regretted that the large number of 
consumptive cases which are sent annually to this place r 
are generally referrible to the class mentioned. They 
frequently arrive in that hopeless period of their com- 
plaint when a cure is almost known to be impossible. 
In these instances, climate of course participates in the 
universal opprobrium of all other remedies ; but the cer- 
tain consequences of sending into Devonshire in these 
advanced stages invalids who ought not to have left their 
homes, add seriously to the responsibility of the parties 
concerned. While, therefore, it is useless (to use no harsh- 
er term) to*expect benefit in the confirmed forms of con- 
sumption, it is probable that in a large proportion of 
cases of incipient phthisis, or where a strong hereditary 
predisposition threatens such a result, the climate of 
Torquay will prove highly serviceable. It may be in- 
teresting to the practical physkian to be informed that 
there are in this place three living examples of the truth 
of this remark. These persons at respective times, 
were affected with the characteristic appearances of con- 
sumption, and were regarded as its certain victims. 
The first case occurred in 1817, commencing in] ithe 
beginning of spring, and continuing to the following 
winter ; the second began in the summer of 1818, and 
lasted with a slight intermission during the greater part 
of the next year ; the third made its appearauce in 181 9* 
The disease in each instance, manifested itself with 
profuse and alarming haemoptysis, attended with great 



CLIMATE OF TORQUAY. 53 

constitutional irritation, which was succeeded by a dry- 
short cough, constant purulent expectoration, and, in a 
word, the usual indications of confirmed phthisis. This 
state of things continued, for many successive months, 
the symptoms not yielding* and the disorder appearing 
to gain ground ; nor was it until the lapse of a considerable 
period in either instance that the scale was turned with 
any prospect of real amendment. f These individuals 
were neither connected by family nor situation, and 
during the entire illness they resided in Torquay ; they 
are still residents in the town and enjoy comparatively 
good health* and have for many years been actively 
engaged in business. These facts are of course en- 
couraging in our present circumscribed treatment of a 
disease in which every step we gain is a discovery. The 
mild, soothing air of Torquay must in these cases have 
aided the aim of nature and contributed not a little to the 
restoration of health, by acting as a sedative on the 
affected organs and by preventing, perhaps, those 
harassing attacks of inflammatory action to which a less 
genial climate would have been conducive. We mention 
these in particular because the persons alluded to are now 
resident in this place ; but they are only three out of the 
many,, nay very many instances, which may be adduced 
in. favour of the beneficial agency of this climate on the 
aggravated forms of consumption. 

Before we quit the subject of climate in consumption, 
we beg to lay before the reader the remarks of Dr. Clark, 
extracted from the 4th part of the Cyclopaedia of Practi- 
cal Medicine ; they deserve to be circulated in every part 
of the globe where consumption is known : — "During 
that peculiar state of deranged health which may often be 
observed to precede tubercular cachexia, and during the 
existence of this morbid state of the constitution, before 
the disease has manifested itself in the actual developement 
of tubercles in the lungs,, change of climate forms a 
powerful adjunct to the other means best calculated for 
removing such a state of the. system. When tubercles 
already exist in the lungs,, the chances of cure are 

t From the information ami pvofessioaal authority of William 
Pollard, Esq., of Torquay, to whom we are indebted for much 
rateable- intelligence relating to this article. 



54 CLIMATE OF TORQUAY. 

immeasurably lessened ; but even then, climate affords 
one of our most valuable resources, and one which 
promotes the salutary action of all our other remedies ; 
and although our hopes of benefit under such a dis- 
couraging state of things, must in general be frail, we 
believe the further progress of the disease may, in some 
cases, be thereby arrested. But such instances of success 
are no doubt very few compared to the many which 
proceed unchecked, despite of climate and every other 
means we can oppose to their progress. We would 
therefore beg to impress upou the minds of our profes- 
sional brethren the urgent necessity of directing their 
attention to the earliest indications of this disease, seeing 
how utterly inefficient all our efforts are even to stay its 
fatal career, when so far advanced as to manifest itself to 
the common observer. Until the tubercular affection of 
the lungs which constitutes the essential character of what 
is commonly termed phthisis, be considered in its true 
character, as the last stage of the disease — as the result 
of a morbid state of the system, which in its progress 
might often be cured, but which in this its termination, 
is scarcely to be remedied, we must still continue as 
heretofore, little better than idle spectators of the ravages 
of a disease which destroys one fourth of our population, 
and numbers among its victims a large proportion of the 
best and fairest of our youth. Among the numerous 
circumstances which require attention in recommending 
a change of climate, one of much importance is often 
entirely lost sight of, both by the physician and his 
patient ; we mean the necessity of perseverance in the 
required mode of life which the peculiar nature of the 
disease demands. This must be urged upon the invalid 
as the condition on which alone he can expect to 
derive benefit frorii the prescribed measure. We are 
satisfied from ample observation, that change of climate 
has not hitherto been productive of all the benefit which 
it is calculated to effecl, — nay, that it has often done 
positive mischief chiefly on account of the inconsiderate 
and injudicious manner in which it has too generally 
been prescribed and carried into effect."* Dr. Clark is 

* Cyclopaedia of Pract. Med. partiv. Art. Climate, London, 1832, 



CLIMATE OF TORQUAY. 



55 



also of opinion that in consumption Torquay and Under- 
cliff, in England, — Madeira in the Atlantic Islands, — 
and Rome and Pisa, in Italy, are the best climates 
known ; and that in chronic bronchitis attended with an. 
irritable state of the affected parts without much secre- 
tion, Torquay and Undercliff also afford the best situa- 
tions in England. The salubrity of the climate of Tor- 
quay is accompanied by a corresponding- mildness of 
the ordinary complaints which belong to every situation. 
We are wholly exempt from endemic diseases ; inter- 
mittent fevers and the severe forms of typhus are un- 
known ; low nervous, and continued fevers, partaking of 
the conventional characters of synochus, are rare and 
seldom fatal ; and the comparative mildness of inflamma- 
tory affections is known to every medical practitoner. 

It is also worthy of remark that the summer heat of 
Torquay, as alluded to in a preceding page, is far 
below many of the most frequented summer watering- 
places in Britain ; and it is not generally known that the 
thermometer very rarely ranges higher than from 68' to 
74° in the hottest days of the season. 

The following catalogue of Plants grown as Hardy 
Exotics in the Gardens at Torquay, affords a good illus- 
tration of the influence of this climate on the various 
productions of ornamental horticulture. 



1. Agapanthus umbellatus 
Azalea indica phoenicia 

alba 

Boceonia cordata 
Cactus speciosa 
Cassia capensis 
Cistus canus 

formosus 

Citrus medica {Citron 

and Lemon) 
Crassula odoratissima 
Dracocephalum canariense 
Fuchsia coccinea 

gracilis 

Gladiolus cardinalis 
Hemimeris linearis 



Hibbertia volubilis 
Jasminum grandifiorum. 

revolutum. 

Magnolia conspicua 

obovata 

Mespilus japonica 
Metrosideros floribunda 
Maurandia barclayana 
Petunia nyctageniflora 
Pittosporum tobira 
Rubus rosaefolius 
Verbena bonariensis 

Melindrica 

Vestia lycioides 



2, Agave americana 



56 



CLIMATE OF TORQUAY. 



Fuchsia macrocarpa 
Hemimeris urticifolia 
Laurus camphora 
Linum arboreum 
Magnolia purpurea 
Marrubium candid um 
Poeonia arborea 
Punica granatiun 
Salvia biflora 



purpurea 

Verbena malendris 
Yucca aloifolia 
gloriosa* 



Aster capensis 
Bignonia pandora 

■ capreolata 

Calceolaria corymbosa 

herbertia 

plantagina 

Calla sethiopica 
Cheirauthus tristis 
Cineraria populifolia 
Cistus roseus 

incauus 

Coronilla glauca 
Fuchsia lycioides 
macrophylla 

The Citron mentioned in the preceding catalogue lias 
been cultivated with great success for fifteen years,, at 
Myrtle Cottage the residence of Miss Southcote. It has 
produced fruit measuring twenty-four inches and three 
quarters in circumference : In 1824, two specimens of 
its fruit bore off the palm at the exhibition of the Horti- 
cultural Society in Regent Street, London.. Pelargoni- 
ums and myrtles of all kinds grow luxuriantly in Torquay, 
the latter are frequently trained along the walls of houses 
in different parts of the town, and require no shelter in 
winter. The Verbena triphyllos also attains a consider- 
able size, resembling the arbutus in the strength and power 
of its growth. At Lady-day in the present year, 1832, 
we observed on Park Hill Lathyrus odoratus, (sweet pea) 
which had stood the preceding winter and was then 
showing for bloom. The orange flourisbes in great beauty 
at Torquay, but as it has never been exposed during the 
winter as the other species of the citrus tribe mentioned 
in our catalogne, it cannot be included in the list of 
exotics growing in the open air. There can be no doubt 
that it would succeed, if the experiment were tried, for, 
as Mr. Loudon observes, the orange is much less tender 

* The Catalogues are here inserted in separate forms, as they 
have been drawn up from thegardensof Miss Southcote and Mrs. 
Johnes respectively. The Plants in these lists are cultivated under 
the management of two very intelligent gardeners ; the first, of 
Mr. Thomas Ingram, the secoud, of Mr. John Gullet. 



CLIMATE OP TORQUAY. 57 

than the lemon. The cottages in the neighbouring vil- 
lages are frequently overgrown with roses which run to 
a considerable height and require no shelter in the se- 
verest winters. In summer evenings the water of Torbay 
flashes with the oar, as in tropical climates, and the 
effect produced by the phosphorescence ofthe waves when 
beating against the walls ofthe pier is truly beautiful. 

We may now, we hope, draw from the concurrent cir- 
cumstances already mentioned, the following conclu- 
sions ; — that this climate offers acheeringpronpectof bene- 
fit in cases of threatened consumption, and that it may be 
serviceable, under certain conditions, in the earliest 
stages of that disease, — the only period indeed, when 
any climate can be really useful. In those complaints, 
also, in which a soft and soothing air is desirable ; in 
chronic affections of the respiratory organs, accompanied 
by a dry, harsh cough, and much local and general irri- 
tability ; in those cases in which it is the aim of the phy- 
sician to restore suppressed secretions, or to moderate 
an inflammatory condition of the mucous membranes ; 
and in other ailments not associated with a languid and 
depressed condition ofthe nervous system, debility of the 
digestive organs or a state of general relaxation, the 
climate of Torquay is calculated to prove highly bene- 
ficial . 

In bringing this article to a close, we beg again to re- 
mark that we speak on every subject of comparison in 
the preceding pages with much caution, for the deduc- 
tions from our limited data can only be presumptively 
true. 

An estimate drawn from a series of years would be 
highly valuable, and would, we think, caeteris paribus, 
establish the superiority of Torquay over every other 
watering place in Britain. At present our documents 
are too scanty to be decisive, they refer moreover to sea- 
sons in many respects exceptionable, and although cal- 
culated with care, are only to be received as prelimi- 
naries to what has long been a desideratum — a scientific 
examination of our climate. The question of climate is 
not one of theory but observation ; it requires accuracy, 
and the co-operation of many ; for although distinct ex.- 



58 STATISTICS OF TORQUAY. 

periments are frequently inconclusive, they acquire a 
permanent importance when established and matured by 
repeated discoveries. 

We now take leave of the subject of climate, with the 
hope that others more able may continue the inquiry, on 
a scale commensurate with its importance, and in the 
large spirit of true philosophy. 

We embrace this opportunity of expressing- our ac- 
knowledgments to Dr. Clark, of London, for the oblig- 
ing manner in which he examined the principal portion 
of this article, and for the improvements he suggested 
in its arrangement and matter. With his work " on 
the Influence of Climate," and Dr. Johnson's little 
volume on " Change of Air," in his hands, the invalid 
will possess two text books from Avhich he will at once 
derive advantage, pleasure and instruction. We have 
been frequently indebted to these works in the composi- 
tion of this essay, and we are at a loss to say whether 
they abound more in sound principles, practical thinking, 
or interesting intelligence. They are full of science, and 
to the physician and travelling valetudinarian are wholly 
indispensible. 

There are few facts more illustrative of the healthi- 
ness of a district then those presented by its statistics. 
In considering the physical history of any place, how- 
ever extensive, much light may be gained by com- 
paring the relative state of the population, and the agency 
of climate or other circumstances in influencing the ba- 
lance of life and death among the whole community. We 
cannot hope, however, to enter thus largely into the sub- 
ject, for there is no public medical institution in this place 
by which the required data can be supplied, nor have we 
knowledge of any private registers in which they are re- 
corded. The following observations will therefore be 
limited to the population and mortality. The tables by 
which they are illustrated comprise the baptisms, burials, 
and marriages of this parish, for eighteen years, and 
have been drawn up from the official returns. We are 
indebted for the documents from which we have formed 
these tables, to the Rev. Robert Gee, the respected in- 



STATISTICS OP TORQUAY. 59 

cumbent of Tormohun and Cockington. The popula- 
tion of the parish of Tormohun (including" Torquay and 
Tor,) was 838, in 1801 ; 1,350, in 1811; 1,925, in 
1821 ; and 3,582, in 1831. If we examine the differ- 
ence of the three decennial periods respectively from 
1801 to 1831, we shall meet with a curious fact in the 
relative increase of population. The difference between 
the returns of 1801, and 1811, is 512; between those 
of 1811, and 1821, 575; and those of 1821 and 31, 
1657. Hence, the population duringthe second period from 
1811 to 1821, had only made an annual increase of 6.3 
on that of the ten preceding years, while the same period 
(1811 to 1821,) was annually exceeded by the follow- 
ing one (1821—31) by 108.2. The population in 1831, 
surpassed that of 1811, by 2,232, and that of 1801, by 
2,744. It has been therefore during the last ten years that 
this parish has so amazingly multipliedin the number of its 
inhabitants. We have seen that the difference between- 
the population of 1811 and 1820, was 5"5 ; now the 
total mortality in that time was 234. Hence, while 
the mean annual increase of population for the ten years 
was 57.5., the mean annual mortality was 23.4., leaving 
a difference of 34. I in favour of the population in each 
year. In the ten following years, from 1821 to 1830, the 
total burials were 402, the baptisms 828, and the differ- 
ence between the population of the two years, 1,657- 
Thus the average annual mortality in this period hardly 
amounted to a fourth of the increase of population, and 
the births on record more than doubled the burials ! The 
number of marriages also from 1821 to 1830, nearly 
doubled those for the ten years preceding. The number 
of marriages in eighteen years, from 1813, to 1830, in- 
elusive, as deduced from Table 3, was 303; the number 
of baptisms 1,223— 616 being females, and 607 males; 
while the burials for the same period were onfy 582.* 
The average of marriages to baptisms, was therefore 
1 in 4; and that of burials to baptisms 1 in 2.59. The 
baptisms of female children exceed those of the males 

* The children of strangers are occasionally baptised here, but 
we have reason to think that the number is too small to affect 
this Comparison. 



60 STATISTICS OF TORQUAY. 

by 9 ; there is also a corresponding result with regard 
to the sexes in the case of the total mortality : — In the 
eighteen years, there were 582 burials in this parish, of 
which 283 were males, and 299 females, leaving a ma- 
jority of sixteen on the mortality of females. Our mor- 
tuary tables embrace four classes, viz. 2 years and under, 
from 2 to 30 ; from 29 to 60 ; and 60 years and upwards. 
The most mortal period, relatively speaking, in eighteen 
years, was the second, there being 167 deaths between 
the ages of 2 and 30 ; of which the males were 69, and 
the females 98. The second in respect of mortality is 
the class of 2 years and upwards, for its total mortality 
is 164, — or 96 males, and 68 females. Between the 
ages of 29 and 60, there occurred 109 burials ; 58 being 
males, and 51 females ; whereas 142 died at the age of 60 
and upwards ; of this latter class, 60 were males, and 82 
females. Thus it will be seen that more than a fourth 
of the entire mortality occurred at the advanced period 
of 60 years and upwards. We suspect that few parishes 
can show a larger catalogue of longevity. In 1830, in a 
total mortality of 53, nine males attained ages between 
65 and 95, and nine females, ages between 95 and 
82. To those who are curious in such matters, the 
seventh column in table 2, will be interesting. The 
united ages of 8 males and females, who died above 60, 
in 1813, amount to 618; in 1826, 10 died above 60, 
whose united ages amount to 737 ; and those of 18 per- 
sons who died above 64 in 1 830, amount to 1,326 years 1 
It will be seen from what we have said above, that the 
number of males who died under 2 years, exceeded the 
females by 28. This is not unusual at this period of 
life, but there is a large increase in the females in the 
next classes. Between 2 and 30, the female mortality 
exceeded that of the males by twenty-nine ; between 29 
and 60, the males exceeded the females by seven ; while 
above the age of 60, the latterpredominated by twenty-two. 
The medical philosopher will not be at a loss to account 
for the excess of female mortality in the first of these 
periods. 

The ratio of the total mortality to the population in 
1821, was 1 in 48.5; the ratio of mortality at 2 years 



STATISTICS OF TORQUAY. 61 

and under to the total population, was 1 in 213.8 ; be- 
tween 2 and 30. 1 in 1 13.4 ; between 29 and 60, 1 in 320.5, 
and at 60 and upwards, 1 in 240.5. — The ratio of the 
total mortality to the population in 1830,* was 1 in 64.25 ; 
the ratio at 2 years and under to the total population, 
1 in 310.7-, between 2 and 30, 1 in 201 ; between 29 
and 60, 1 in 488.1 ; and at 60 and upwards, 1 in 189.15. 

It will be interesting to examine the comparative mor- 
tality in the different classes. During eighteen years 
the ratio to the aggregate mortality, at 

2 years and under, was. . 1 in 3.90 

Between 2 and 30 1 in 3.81 

Between 29 and 60 1 in 5.37 

At 60 and upwards 1 in 4.14 

It will be seen in table 2, that in 582 burials, there 
were only 93 strangers. But the evidence afforded by 
the registers in this instance is not conclusive ; for a 
large proportion of strangers who die in Torquay are re- 
moved for interment to the places of their former resi- 
dence. We have no particulars respecting the mor- 
tality of the different seasons ; but as Torquay is selected 
by invalids as a winter residence, there are, it is pre- 
sumed, more burials in that part of the year. 

Summary of the Population, &c. of this parish, 
from the Parliamentary Returns, for different years : — 

1801 1811 1821 1831 

Inhabited Houses 143 253 308 551 

Families 188 273 389 629 

Number of Inhabitants .... 838 1,350 1,925 3,582 

General Summary of the Returns of 1831 : — 
Total Population 3582; Males 1583; Females 1999 
Inhabited houses 55 1 ; Houses building 45 ; uninhabited 37 ; 
Number of families 626; Fam. engagedin agriculture 28 ; 
Families engaged in Trade, Manufacture and Handicraft 
282, other Families 316. Wholesale Merchants, Pro- 
fessional men, Capitalists, and other educated men, 64. 
Occupiers of land employinglabourers 6, the same not em- 
ploying labourers 6. No. of Agricultural labourers 36. 

* We here employ the mortality of 1830, as we have no returns 
for 1831. The population of that year is obtained by deducting 
from that of 1831 as denoted by the census, the mean Estimated 
increase of one year. 



62 



STATISTICS OF TORQUAY. 



No. of labourers not employed in Agriculture 130. ■ 
No. of males 20 years old, 816 ; other males above 20, 
retired Tradesmen, &c. 74. Males employed in retail 
trade or handicraft 439 ; males engaged in the manu- 
facture of machinery, &c. none. 

From the large increase of buildings in this parish, 
and especially those of an inferior class, it is evident 
that the population will be wonderfully multiplied at the 
period of the next census, and if the rate of mortality 
in the meantime continues as low as it is at present, it is 
very questionable whether the growth of inhabitants will 
be an advantage. It is perhaps fortunate that the local 
conditions of Torquay render it unlikely that it will 
ever become a place of large mercantile connexions. It 
is now free from the noise and bustle of a sea-port, and 
its climate is not impaired by the dull heavy atmosphere 
of a large town. The greater the increase of inhabi- 
tants the more influential will be our artificial circum- 
stances, and the nearer the place approximates to the cha- 
racter of a town the more serious will be the injury to 
that climate which is now the source of its prosperity. 



TABLE I 


Relative Mortality of each \ 


ear, 


\t different periods. 


| 2Yrs.&under| 


Betw. 2 & 30 | 


Betvi 


\29<^60 | 60 Sf upwards. 


i 


tu 


S 


3 


« 


a 


13 


0> 


g 


3 


JJ 


S 


3 


S* 


§ 




H 


s 


v 
fe 


H 


§ 




a 


§ 


* 


H 


1813 


.. 


1 


1 


1 


3 


4 


1 


1 


2 


2 


6 


8 


1814 


5 


5 


10 


1 


6 


7 


3 




3 


2 


2 


4 


1815 


4 


2 


6 




4 


4 


1 


3 


4 


4 


3 


/ 


1816 


3 


6 


9 


4 


4 


8 


3 




3 


4 


4 


8 


1817 


4 


1 


5 




1 


1 


4 


1 


5 


3 


5 


8 


1818 


1 


2 


3 


1 


2 


3 


1 


2 


3 


3 


5 


8 


1819 


6 


4 


10 


4 


2 


6 


4 


1 


5 


3 


4 


7 


1820 2 


3 


5 


o 


7 


10 


1 


3 


4 


2 


7 


9 


1821} 6 


3 


9 


7 


10 


17 


3 


3 


6 


3 


5 


8 


1822| 12 


7 


19 


5 


6 


11 


2 


3 


. 5 


2 


3 


o 


1823 .4 , 


6 


10 


7 


1 


8 


2 


8 


10 


2 


1 


3 


1824, 8 


4 


12 


7 


15 


22 


3 


8 


11 


4 


5 


9 


l82o| 4 




4 


5 


8 


13 


6 


2 


8 


3 


2 


5 


1 82 6 6 


6 


12 


2 


3 


5 


5 


2 


7 


4 


6 


10 


1827; 9 


1 


10 


6 


4 


10 


3 


4 


7 


2 


6 


8 


1828! 7 


5 


12 


5 


6 


11 


4 


5 


9 


4 


3 


7 


1 829! 9 


7 


16 


4 


6 


10 


J 


3 


10 


4 


6 


10 


1830] 6 


5 


! 11 


7 


10 


17 


1 5 


2 


7 


9 9 


18 



STATISTICS OF TORQUAY. 



TABLE 2, showing the collective mortality of each year ; 
the particular ages of the fourth period> and their united amount. 



Vears. 



1813 
1814 
1815 
1816 
1817 
1818 
1819 
1820 
1821 
1822 
1823 
1824 
1825 
1826 
1827 
1828 
1829 
1830 



Total 
Mort. 



Particular ages of Class iv. 
60 years and upwards. 



M.62, 68 , 

F. 74, 79, 81, 83,84,87 , 

M. 67, 82 

F. 75, 88 

M. 60, 72, 89, 84 , 

F. 69, 74, 90 

M. 64, 68, 70, 80 

F. 60, 61, 76, 80 

M. 79, 82, 84, 

F. 61, 72,83, 85, 95 

M. 71, 71, 93 

F. 63, 69, 72, 75, 85 

M. 76, 82, 91 

F. 62, 69, 83, 85 

M. 62, 88 

F. 62, 6", 67, 67, 72,73, 78 

M. 60, 75, 85 

F. 60, 61, 70, 72, 79 

M. 87, 90 

F. 73, 75, 84 

M. 70, 83 

F. 60 

M. 62, 78, 83, 87 

F. 62, 65, 70, 70,82 

M. 72, 83, 87.... 

F. 82, 85 

M. 61, 76, 76, 92 

F. 62, 64, 66, 7b, 79, $6 

M. 70, 79 

F. 60, 61, 66, 76, 77, 79 ........ 

M. 60, 64, 81, 86 

F. 68, 75, 81 

M. 65, 70, 72, 81 

F. 70, 73, 75, 76, 79, 85 

M. 65, 66, 67, 68, 73, 74, 76, 80, 95 
F. 65, 65, 69, 70, 71, 79, 80,81, 82 



1301 
488/ 
1491 
163/ 
315 1 
233 



282 



Amount of 

the united 

ages of 

Class iv. 



618 
312 
548 

245 1 CAt . 

400 } 64 ° 

m 599 

2491 ,, Q 

299| 548 

150 1 „,.. 

486/ 636 

m 562 

305 1 -„„ 

m\ /3/ 

m\ 568 
291 1 5 

224 5 



64 



STATISTICS OF TORQUAY. 



TABLE III. Containing the Marriages and Baptisms ; the increase 
of Baptisms above the Marriages and Burials, and the ratio of 
the two last to the aggregate of Baptisms. 





Mar-r -r, , 
riagej Ba P^™s. 


Increase of 

Baptisms above 

marriages. 


Ratio of 

marriages to 

Baptisms. 


Increase of 

Baptisms above 

Burials. 


Ratio of 
Burials to 
Baptisms. 


Years. 


"ea 
o 


-a 

o 

a 

u 




o 

s 


5 


01 

.1 

"fcr 

— 


1813 


9 


325 


27 


52 


i 


43 


Iin5. 7 


37 


Iin3. 7 


1814 


10 


7 24 


21 


4. c 




35 


1..4. 5 


21 


1..1.21 


1815 


7 


•• 


22 


19 


41 




34 


1..5. 6 


20 


1..1.20 


1816 


15 


4 


25 


18 


43 




28 


1..2.13 


15 


1..1.15 


1817 


11 


2 


24 


23 


47 


1 


36 


1..4. 3 


28 


1..2. 9 


1818 


8 


2 23 


20 


43 




35 


1..5. 3 


26 


1..2. 8 


1819 


10 


2'34 


30 


64 


1 


54 


1..6. 4 


36 


1..2. 8 


1820 


20 


229 


31 


60 


1 


30 


1..2.10 


22 


1..1.22 


1821 


13 


435 


32 


67 




54 


1..5. 2 


27 


1.. 1.27 


1822 


16 


331 


41 


72 


1 


56 


1..4. 8 


32 


1..1.32 


1823 


18 


4 28 


40 


69 


2 


51 


I. .3.15 


38 


1..2. 7 


1824 


26 


5 37 


52 


89 


2 


63 


1..3.11 


35 


1. 1.35 


1825 


25 


9 


3 7 


46 


83 


3 


58 


1..3. 8 


53 


1..2.23 


1826 


12 


3 


3; 


30 


67 


2 


55 


1..5. 7 


33 


1..1.33 


1827 


15 


4 


42 


41 


83 


1 


68 


1..5. 8 


48 


1..2.13 


1828 


35 


6 


57 


35 


92 


2 


57 


1..2.22 


53 


1..2.14 


1829 


20 


2 


49 


58 


107 


2 


87 


1..5. 7 


61 


1..2.15 


1830 


33 


9 


47 


52 


99 


1 


66 


1..3... 


46 


1..1.46 



PUBLIC ESTABLISHMENTS, 



65 



The Invalid will find in Torquay a variety of excel- 
lent accommodations in the way of houses ; those of the 
higher class are equal in comfort to any on the coast and 
are in general well arranged. Small houses for the recep- 
tion of limited families are to be obtained in different 
parts of the place. The cottage-villas with gardens and 
shrubberies on the hills are frequently preferred by 
those who desire a detached residence. 

The Pub F^c Establishments of Torquay are not 
numerous but are well adapted to the increasing popula- 
lation. The Royal Hotel, under the management of 
Mr. Poulton, will afford every accommodation to the in- 
valid or tourist. This establishment meets with a con- 
siderable share of public patronage. It was enlarged 
and partly rebuilt, on an extensive scale, in 1828, by the 
proprietor Sir L. V. Palk, Bart. It is fitted up with 
much regard to taste and convenience and is adapted 
for the reception of families of the first distinction. It 
contains ten good sitting rooms, and 21 best bed-rooms. 
The Assembly Room adjoining is a handsome and well 
proportioned building, in which are held the Regatta 
and other Balls, Concerts, Public Meetings, &c. and the 
winter Assemblies conducted lately under Ladies Patro- 
nesses. Behind 'the Hotel are spacious coach-houses 
and other offices affording an abundant supply of post- 
horses and vehicles of all description for public hire. 

The Family Hotel of Mr. Marchetti,the confectioner, 
was established in 1828, and is well entitled to ge- 
neral notice. This Hotel is quiet and respectably sup- 
ported. The accommodations are good, and the atten- 
tion and civility experienced in the establishment add 
not a little to its popularity. The proprietor is a re- 
staurateur, and will be found particularly useful to those 
families who prefer occupying private lodgings to a re- 
sidence iu either of the Hotels. Connected with it, are 
the Beersheba Mews, a commodious range of livery 
stables, and coach houses,,situated near the Independent 
Chapel in Park-street. 

Cole's Commercial Inn opposite the Royal Hotel, 
is a neat and convenient building-, and is much frequented 
by commercial men and travellers in general.* 

It will be curious to compare the present places of public re- 



66 PUBLIC ESTABLISHMENTS. 

The market was established by Sir Lawrence V. Palk, 
Bart, to whose liberality the inhabitants are indebted for 
the clock adjoining. It is small but neatly arranged — 
the shambles being conveniently disposed within a semi- 
circular colonnade of red conglomerate. The market is 
regularly supplied on Tuesdays and Fridays with meat, 
poultry, vegetables, &c. from the immediate neighbour- 
hood, which are retailed at moderate prices. 

The boats of the place, and the trawlers from Brix- 
ham supply the market with an abundance of excellent 
fish throughout the year. Lobsters are taken in the im- 
mediate neighbourhood of the pier, and at Livermead, 
Meadfodt bay, Hope's Nose &c. ; and Torbay is pecu- 
liarly celebrated for its delicious whiting. 

The Baths are situated at the extremity of the Pier, 
and were erected by their proprietor, W. Pollard, Esq. 
The building is plain but substantial, and contains hot, 
tepid, shower, vapour, and cold sea baths. Their con- 
tiguity to a clear, deep sea ensures a permanent supply 
of water. They were opened to the public in 1817. 

The Post Office is on the Strand, opposite Cole's Li- 
brary. The Exeter Mail, with the Teignmouth, Exeter, 
London, Foreign, and other letters from parts east of 
the place, arrives at 7 in the evening. These letters are 
delivered as soon after that hour as circumstances may 
permit. This Mail leaves the Hotel every morning at 
half-past seven ; arriving in Exeter about noon. The 
departure of the Western Post with the Irish and Ply- 
mouth letters &c. is at 6 in the evening, returning the 
following morniEg, when the delivery takes place about 
8 o'clock. London letters take twenty-three hours to 
their destination, Irish letters three days. 

The Mail leaves Exeter for Torquay, about 3 P. M. A 

sort with those which Torquay possessed about half a century 
ago. There were then fire inns in the place, — the London Inn, 
near the site of the Royal Hotel ; the Shallop near the Steam 
Packet Office, the Crown and Anchor about the same situation as 
the present Tavern of that name ; the Old Inn near Marchetti's, 
and the Bird-in-the-Hand, where the London Inn now stands. 
The motto of the latter was — 

" A bird in the hand is better far, 
" Than two birds in the bushes are." 



PUBLIC ESTABLISHMENT?. 67 

day Coach also passes through on its way from Dartmouth 
to Exeter, at half past Ten every morning, and another 
leaves Exeter on its return, about the same hour. These 
coaches pass through Starcross, Dawlish and Teign- 
mouth. The Dartmouth coach crosses the Dart by the 
new steam bridge, and proceeds direct to the Castle 
Hotel in that town ; from thence there is a constant 
communication with Plymouth, through Kingsbridge 
and Modbury. This route from Exeter to Plymouth, 
through Torquay and Dartmouth, is the most beautiful 
line of road in the county, and constitutes one of the 
leading attractions in the way of excursions from Tor- 
quay. The coast scenery, added to the rich luxurience 
of the South-Hams is unrivalled. 

To those who may desire to abridge the journey by 
land from hence to London, and vary their route by a 
view of the coast between Torquay and Portsmouth, the 
Brunswick, a steam vessel of considerable power, will 
be a great desideratum. This vessel leaves Portsmouth 
every Tuesday and Friday on the arrival of the day 
coaches from London, and lands her passengers at Tor- 
quay at an early hour on the following mornings, when 
she immediately proceeds to Plymouth. She leaves 
Plymouth every Monday and Thursday at noon, and 
calls at Torquay about Seven in the evening of those 
days, for passengers for Cowes and Portsmouth, who 
can proceed immediately to London by the coaches 
which generally await her arrival. The excellent accom- 
modations of this vessel and the attention of the proprie- 
tors to the comfort of the public are well known. There 
are several coasting vessels employed in the carriage of 
goods and merchandise, between this place and London. 
For further information respecting these conveyances, 
the reader is referred to the appendix. 

There are two Public Libraries and a Book Society in 
Torquay. The Book Society contains many valuable 
andstandard publications in the differentbranches of litera- 
ture. It originated in the exertions of many of the in- 
habitants to obtain access to those new works of interest 
which do not come within the range of circulating Libra- 
ries. The depository of Books is at Cole's Library ; the 
affairs are managed by a Secretary. 



68 



PUBLIC ESTABLISHMENTS'. 



Cole's Reading Rooms, Billiard Room, and Circula- 
ting Library occupy an extensive and handsome building 
on Vaughan Parade. The Library is supplied with the 
floating literature of the day, and with the leading Maga- 
zines and Reviews, Army and Navy Lists, &c. In the 
Reading Room the following Newspapers are for perusal; 
Times, Morning Chronicle, Courier, Globe, Albion, 
Spectator, Woolmer's Exeter Gazette, Trewman's Exeter 
Flying Post, Plymouth Herald, and Hampshire Tele- 
graph. Promenades are held once a fortnight during the 
winter at these Rooms, and are numerously attended. 
A new and extensive boarding-house connected with this 
establishment has been lately opened on very liberal 
terms. There is also a very excellent Boarding establish- 
ment in Park Place, conducted by Miss Ball. 

Cockreni's Public Library is situated in Mill Street 
opposite the Lower Terrace. It was commenced in the 
spring of 1831 by Mr. Cockrem, Printer^ Bookseller 
and Stationer at this place, and comprises those interest- 
ing series of monthly publications which have gained so 
large a share of patronage, and given such a new feature 
to our periodical literature. It contains the Family, 
National, and Edinburgh Libraries ; the Cabinet Cyclo- 
paedia ; Roscoe's Novelists' Library, the Standard Novels 
of Colburn and Bentley, and other works of interest on 
general and scientific subjects. The " Library of Peri- 
odicals" connected with it, comprises the leading quar- 
terly and monthly Reviews, Magazines, &c. 

The "Torquay Society for the diffusion of Religious 
and Useful Knowledge" is designed to afford the lower 
orders means of enjoying the loan of Bibles, Prayer 
Books, and religious and moral publications. The de- 
pository of these books is at Mr. Pentecost's in Cary 
Buildings, where presents of works of this description are 
received. It is open on Mondays from ten to twelve, and 
on Saturday evenings from six to eight. 

Livermead House, a Boarding establishment conduct- 
ed by Miss Mudge, is situated near Livermead sands, at 
the distance of about a mile from Torquay. It was 
erected by the Rev Roger Mallock of Cockington Court, 
and has been recently opened to the public as a boarding- 
house. The accommodations and arrangements of the 



PUBLIC ESTABLISHMENTS. 69 

building are excellent; its convenient distance from 
Torquay, and its vicinity to the delightful sands of Liver- 
mead, with a bathing machine attached to the establish- 
ment, render it a great desideratum to the invalid or 
tourist. To families who prefer a residence in the 
neighbourhood of Torquay, and in a situation command- 
ing the whole of Torbay and a rich variety of coast 
scenery, Livermead House will prove highly useful. 

The Pier and Quays were erected in 1800, at the ex- 
pense of the late Sir Lawrence Palk, Bart., under the 
provisions of an Act of Parliament, 43 Geo. Ill, 1803. 
They are built with limestone from the neighbouring 
quarries, with the exception of the parapet of the pier 
which is constructed with Portland stone. 

The pier affords protection to vessels of considerable 
size ; and yachts, pleasure boats, and the fishing craft 
lie securely in the basin throughout the year. There are 
about 20 vessels and a large number of fishing boats con- 
nected with Torquay. The present aggregate tonnage 
of vessels above 30 tons amounts to about 1700. The 
place maintains a Trade with Newfoundland, although 
it has declined in late years ; it has also regular coasters 
between this neighbourhood and London ; a Steamer 
runs hence to Portsmouth and Plymouth during the 
usual season, and many vessels are engaged in importing 
timber from America ; but the greatest number are em- 
ployed in the Coal trade. The shipment of the Aller 
pipe and potter's clay takes place here. The duties of 
harbour master are zealously discharged by Mr. Nicholas 
Mudge. 

Torquay Chapel was erected in 1815 by the Patron of 
the parish, the Rev. Roger Mallock of Cockington Court, 
after the designs of Mr. Leth bridge of London. It is 
properly a'chapel of ease to the parish church of Tormohun. 
It is a plain unornamented building, divine service is per- 
formed here twice every Sunday. The present curate 
is the Rev. Charles Lane. We refer strangers who are 
desirous of obtaining information relative to the pews, 
&c. to Mr. Swallow in the Meadow. 

The Independent Chapel is situated on an eminence 
near Park- Street, and was constructed after the designs 



70 PUBLIC ESTABLISHMENTS. 

of Mr. Foulstone ; its style is neat, although from its size 
it can have no pretension to the title of Gothic architecture. 
The foundation stone was laid by Admiral Pearson, June 
3rd, 1830, and the building- was opened June 21st, 
1831, it contains seats for 600 persons, 200 of which 
are free. A ladies' loan tract and visiting committee, 
and a Sunday school are connected with the congrega- 
tion. A vestry library has also been formed for the ac- 
commodation of the poor members. The Rev. W. 
Greenwood is the Minister. 

The Roman Catholic Chapel is at. Tor-Abbey, occu- 
pying the refectory of the ancient monastery ; the minis- 
terial duties are performed by the Rev. J. M\ Enery, 
F. G. S. 

The Wesleyan Chapel, in George Street, was erected 
in 1807. It is regularly attended by the ministers of 
that persuasion. 

The Baptist Meeting house is in the back lane, and 
that belonging to the Calvinists at the back of Cary 
Buildings. 

The National School was established in 1826, and is 
conducted on the plau of the late Dr. Bell. It is sup- 
ported by voluntary contributions. The present number 
of children instructed at this institution is 228, — 108 
hoys and 120 girls ; the duties of the two schools are 
sustained respectively by a male and a female superin- 
tendent ; under the able inspection of the resident clergy. 
The Sunday School of the established church is directed 
by the preceptors of this establishment. 

The Sunday School connected with the Wesleyan 
Methodist congregation, is attended by about 100 children ; 
it is supported by collections made in their chapel, and is 
conducted by members of the society. 

There are also many charitable institutions in Torquay 
highly honourable to their promoters, and to the sup- 
port of which we earnestly call the attention of the pub- 
lic. From the large relief afforded to the poorer classes 
in this neighbourhood, the funds derived from the con- 
tributions of the residents are inadequate to promote the 
purposes of these establishments ; and the good conferred 
'by a judicious distribution of charity is infinitely more 



PUBLIC BSTABLISH31ENTS. 71 

serviceable" to society than that indiscriminate bounty, 
which observes no distinction between the idle vagrant 
and the real object of compassion. 

Foremost among these Institutions are the following : 
1. The Lying-in-Charity, supported by subscriptions 
and donations. 2, The Penny Club of Mrs. James 
Yonge, for clothing the children of the poor, nominated by 
subscribers. The weekly payment of one penny consti- 
tutes a subscriber, and the children enjoying the benefit of 
the club pay the same weekly sum, by which means, it is 
presumed, they will acquire a habit of necessary econo- 
my. 3, The general Fund for the relief of the poor, 
in case of losses, sickness, or severe distress. 4. The 
Ladies' Repository of useful and ornamental work, de- 
signed to aid the funds of the charity most requiring as- 
sistance. Contributions of work are very acceptable. 

The Benevolent Society established in 1831. Its 
objects are "to relieve the sick, the aged, and infirm, of 
every religious denomination, resident in this parish, — 
and to stop the evils of indiscriminate charity by 
turning it into more useful channels." It is under the 
direction of a Patron, President, Treasurer, Committee, 
Sub-Committee, Sub-Mendicity Committee, two Secre- 
taries, a Clerk, and a number of district visitors. Tike 
Society's Room No. 6, Braddons' Row, is open to the 
public every day, Sundays excepted, between 11 and 12 
o'clock. The present officers of the institution are the 
following :-— Patron, the Dean of Bristol ; President, 
Rev. R. Gee ; Treasurer, Rev. Peter Leigh ; Secretary 
for the Torquay Branch, Rev. Charles Lane, — for the 
Tor Branch, Rev. R. Hayne ; Clerk, Mr. T. Pitts. 

6. The Torquay Branch Association, in connection 
with the Society for educating the Poor of Newfound- 
land organised under the auspices of Viscount Sandon. 

7. The Society for providing "soup and clothing for 
the poor of this parish during the winter months," con- 
ducted by a committee of three gentlemen who arrange 
the distribution of soup ; the clothing of women and 
children being directed by a committee of four ladies. 

For every information respecting these charities, we 
beg to refer our readers to the officiating clergymen of 



72 PUBLIC BSTABLISHMENTS. 

the parish, by whom donations and subscriptions will b« 
forwarded to the societies for building churches ; for 
promoting christian knowledge ; for the propagation of 
the Gospel in foreign parts ; the Church Missionary So- 
ciety ; British and Foreign Bible Society ; Association 
for the religious instruction of the Irish, &c. &c. 

The Torbay Regatta is held annually at Torquay and is 
supported by a Regatta Club at that place, aided by 
voluntary subscriptions. Yachts from 12 to 100 tons, 
pleasure boats of all classes, fishing craft, and rowing 
boats contend for the prizes which are of considerable 
value. The first is a Gold Challenge Cup, value 100 
guineas ; and if the festival be as attractive and beauti- 
ful in future years as it has been in this, the Torbay 
Regatta will not be surpassed in any port in Britain. 
The contest commences at noon, and continues to the 
close of the day ; a ball, and generally a supper in the 
evening under distinguished patronage, close the cata- 
logue of amusements. The arrangements are conducted 
by a special committee, elected annually by the members 
of the Club. This Regatta is held in July or Au- 
gust, and is regulated by those of Cowes and Ply- 
mouth. The appearance of Torbay at the celebration of 
the Regatta is truly splendid ; the heights thronged with 
spectators, and the bay studded with the vessels of the 
gay pageant present a scene of unrivalled beauty, while 
a band of music stationed on the Beacon hill contributes 
not a little to its interest. 

The parish of Tormohun being within the Paignton 
division, the minor causes which arise within this neigh- 
bourhood are heard and determined by the bench of 
magistrates which assembles monthly at Paignton, where 
other business of a local nature is transacted. 

"The Torquay Association for the protection of Pro- 
perty," is designed to aid the prosecution of persons who 
may be found to commit depredations on the property of 
the inhabitants. It is under the management of the Se- 
cretary, William Kitson, Esq. solicitor. 

The Stamp office is on the new Quay, and is con- 
ducted by Mrs. Winsborrow. 



PUBLIC ESTABLISHMENTS. 



73 



It has been frequently asked why there is no Museum 
or Literary Society in Torquay, since there are so 
many facilities for their establishment. A Museum 
would unquestionably be a valuable addition to the other 
attractions of the place, but it would require a large co- 
operation of talent to maintain the interests of such an 
institution. The expense attending its formation would 
be considerable, and the annual outlay, if supported in 
the manner the importance of the measure deserves, 
would far exceed its means. Torquay, we believe, is 
not yet large enough to uphold this object on that liberal 
scale which can alone render it desirable; for it could 
never effect much in the different branches of natural 
science connected with this district without adequate 
pecuniary assistance. 

We must be permitted, however, to mention in this 
place the interesting and valuable Museum of the Rev. 
J. M\ Enery, containing a collection of the rarest fossils 
obtained in Kent's Cavern, as well as illustrations of 
the various branches of geological science from different 
parts of Europe. The discoveries in Kent's Cavern will 
be found at large in a following page ; but the stranger 
who may be fortunate enough to obtain access to the 
cabinets of Mr. M'. Enery, will derive much pleasure 
from their inspection, as well as from the taste and in- 
dustry with which they are arranged. 

Before we conclude this part, we beg to call the at- 
tention of invalids to the facilities Torquay offers for 
water excursions ; pleasure yachts of convenient size 
may be procured at all times either for the day or week, 
and there is no danger or inconvenience in the landing, 
as the boats can always be brought alongside the 
steps of the Pier. For information on this subject the 
reader is referred to Messrs Slade, Dashper^ Godfrey, 
Shaw, Stabb, Peeke, or Lawrence. 



PART III. 
NATURAL HISTORY OF TORBAY.* 



BOTANY. 



Among the more rare species of Phzenogamous or 
Flowering Plants may be enumerated, 



Allium ursinum 
.... vineale 
Antirhinum spurium 
. . , . fluellin 
Antliyllis vulneraria 
Arenaria trinervis 
.... peploides 
.... marina 
Adoxa moschatellina 
Anchusa sempervirens 
Apium graveolens 
A triplex lacineata 



Aquilegia vulgaris 
Arabis hirsuta 
Beta maritima 
Brassica oleracea 
fBupleurum odontites 
Cakile maritima 
Cerastium semidecandrum 
Centunculus minimus 
Carduus tenuiflorus 
.... marianus and acaulis 
Carlina vulgaris 
Cistus polifolius 



* We are proud to acknowledge ourselves indebted to the kindness 
of Mrs. Griffiths for these illustrations of the Natural History of 
Torbay, which are so highly calculated to enhance the value of 
this volume. So little is known generally of this department of 
topography, that these particulars cannot fail to be acceptable, 
more especially as they comprise the truly splendid discoveries of 
Mrs. Griffiths in the hitherto neglected field of Marine Botany, — 
many of which are now for the first time presented to the public. 
Had the limits of this work permitted, we intended to have added 
the ornithology of the district, but as Torbay differs little in this 
particular from the other parts of the South of Devon, we refer 
the reader to an able and comprehensive article on this subject in 
the Transactions of the Plymouth Institution, by Dr. Moore. 
We beg to add that the hortus siccus and cabinets of Mrs. 
Griffiths contain with few exceptions, the plants, shells, &c, 
mentioned in our catalogue. 

f This plant was first found on Flag-staff hill, Torquay, by the Rer. 
A Neck, in 1800 ; -by the Rev. Dr. Beeke, in 1810 ; and by Mrs. 
Griffiths, in 1820 and 30, but not in the intermediate years". Mrs. 
Griffiths has also found it this summer (1832) in the same 
locality; and Mr. Neck observed it in 1802 on the hills at St. 
Mary Church. It has however been noticed occasionally in the 
grounds of Woodbine Cottage, but it always appears to be de- 
creasing. 



BOTANY OF TORBAY. 



75 



Cichorium intybus 
Cochlearia officinalis 
Convolvulus soldanella 

hybrida 

Cotyledon umbilicus 
Cornus sanguinea 
Clematis vitalba 
Crithmum maritimum 
Crambe maritima 
Cuscuta epithymum 
Cynoglossum officinale 
Dipsacus syivestris 
Erodium cicutarium 
.... maritimum 
Erythrsea pulchella 
Eryngium maritimum 
Euphorbia portlandica 

amygdaloides 

...... minimum 

peplis 

paralia 

Gentiana campestris 
Galanthus nivalis 
Glaucium luteum 
Geranium nodosum 

lucidum 

columbinum 

...... pusillum 

dissectum 

rotundifolium 

robertianum 

white variety 

Helleborus viridis 
Hippocrepis comosa 
Humulus lupulus 
Hypericum montanum 

pulchrum 

Hyoscyamus niger 
Iris fcetidissima 
. . pseudacorus 
Jasione montana ; 



Juncus acutus 
Lavatera arborea 
Lathyrus syivestris 
r Lepidium didymum of 
< Withering or 
I Senebiera didym&(Smith) 
Ligustrum vulgare 
Lithospermum purpurocce- 

ruleum 
Lithospermum officinale 
Linum usitatissimum 
.... angustifolium 
Lister a ovata 
Lychnis maritima 
Malva moschata 
.... rotundifolia 
Medicago maculata 
Meiittis grandiflora 
Menyanthes trifoliata 
Meum fseniculum 
Marrubium vulgare 
IVIarcipus biflorus 
Neottia spiralis 
Ophrys Apifera 
Orchis ustulata 
.... Morio 
.... pyramidal! s 
Ornithopus perpusillus 
Orobanche Major 
Papaver hybriduni 
Poterium sanguisorba 
Primula veris 
Prunus cerasus 
Pyrus communis 
.... aria 

Pyrethrum inodorum 
Raphanus maritimus 
Ranunculus aquatilis 

.... auricomus 

.... sceleratus 
Rubia peregrina 



7« 



BOTANY OF TORBAY. 



Rumex pulcher 
Ruscus aculeatus 
Sambucus ebulus 
Salvia verbenaca 
Samolus valerandi 
Scilla autumnah's 
.... bifolia 
Scabiosa columbaria 
Sedum reflexum 
.... anglicum 
.... telephium 
.... rupestre 
Sanieula europaea 
Serratula fcinctoria 
Silene quinquevulnera 
Smyrnium olusatrum 
Sinapis nigra 
Spiraea filipendula 
Statice limonium 
Solanum dulcamara 
Tanacetum vuhrare 



Thalictrum minus 
Trifolium suffocatum 

. . . subterraneum 

. . . fragiferum 

. . . arvense 

. . . scabrum 

. . . striatum 
Triglochin maritimum 
Valeriana rubra 
. . . . droica 
Viburnum lantana 
. . . . opulus 
Veronica montana 
Verbascum virgatum 
. . . . nigrum 
Vicia sylvatica 
Vinca minor 
Viola montana 
. . . . odorata 
Zostera marina 



THE FERNS OF THE NEIGHBOURHOOD ARE 



Poly podium vulgare 
Serrated variety 
Aspidium filix mas 

fcemina 

dilatatum 

spinulosum 

aculeatum 

Asplenium trichomanes 

viride 

marinum 

ruta muraria 

adiantum nigrum 

MUSCI. 



Scolopendrium vulgare 
Variety multifida 
Scolopendrium ceterach 
Blechnura boreale 
Osmunda regalis 
Ophioglossum vulgatum 
Lycopodium selago 

clavellatum 

Equisetum fluviatiie 

arvense 

palustre 



Phascum alteruifolium 

crispum 

axillare 

muticum 

Tortula tortuosa 

rigida 

cuneifolia 

Pterogonium Smithii 



Weissia aerata 
Weissia starkeana 
Neckera crispa 
Hypnum striatum 

tenellum 

myosuroides 

Eucalypta vulgaris 
Orthotrichum am.maluiru 



MARINE BOTANY OP TORBAY. 



77 



To the Marine Botanist this place offers peculiar ad* 
vantages. The rocks are easy of access, and the various 
inlets of the bay afford shelter to a great variety of Algae ; 
several of the rarer species have not been found on any 
other part of the British coast, and others perfect their 
seeds more completely here than they are observed to do 
elsewhere. Among the more rare and beautiful may be 
not: ~ed — 



Genera of Gveville 
Asperococcus echinatus 
Bangia Fusco-purpurea 
Bonnemaisonia asparagoi- 

des 
Bryopsis plumosa 
.... hypnoides 
Catenella opuntia 
Chsetospora Wiggii rrr 
# rjChondrus mamillosus 

I . . . . crispus 

|| . .;. . norvegicus 
.... membranifolius 

.... Brodisei, var. rr 

Chorda Filum 
.... Lomentaria r 

Chordaria flagelliformis 
Codium tomentosuin 
.... Bursa 

Gutleria multifida rr 
Cystoseira ericoides 
...... granulata 

...... fseniculacea 

fibrosa 

Delesseria sanguinea 

sinuosa 

...... alata 

...... hypoglossum 

Ruseifolia 

Desmarestia ligulata 

aculeata 

* Carrageen Moss. 
§ First found in Torbay. 



Dichloria viridis r 
Dictyota dichotema 
.... atom aria 
Dumontia filiformis 
Enteromorpha intestinalis 

compressa 

clathrata 

linkiana 

Fucus canaliculatus 
.... nodosus 
.... serratus 
.... vesiculosus >-.>■■ 
Furcellaria fastigiata 
Gastridium artieulatum 
. . clavellosum 
. . kaliforme 
. . ovale 

. . . parvulum rr 
Gelidium corneum, many 

varieties 
I Gigartina acicularis 3? 
.... Griffith siae 
.... plicata 
Gracilaria confervoides 
§. . . . erecta rrr 

. purpurescens 
Halidrys siliquosa 
Halymenia furcellata r 

ligulata r- 
Halyseris polypodioides -Vr 
Himanthalia lorea 
Perfect seeds Torbay only. 
%, Fruit in Torbay only. 



'8 



MARINE BOTANY OF TORBAY. 



Jridaea edulis 

.... reniformis rrr 

Laminaria digitata 

bulbosa 

phylittis 

Saccharina 

Laurencia dasyphylla 

obtusa r 

pinnati6da 

tenuissima rr 

Lichina pygmcea 
*Microcladia glandulosa rrr 
Nitophyllum bonne maiso- 

ni rrr 
*. . . . Gmelini rrr 
.... laceratum 

Hillise rrr 

*Nitophyllum ocellatum rrr 
.... punctatum rrr 
Phyllophora rubens 
Plocamium coccineum 



Padina pavonia r 
Punctaria latifolia r 
Polyides rotundus 
fPorphyra laciniata 
Ptilota plumosa 
Rhodomenia bifida r 

ciliata 

jubata 

laciniata r 

. Palmetta r 

palmata 

% Teedii rrr 

Rhodomela lycopodioides 
. . . . pinastroides 
. . . . subfusca 
Sphcerococcus coronopifo- 

liurs rr 
Sporochnus pedunculatus r 
. . . . rhizodes r 
Ulva bulbosa 
. . . . latissima 



Order confervoidae or jointed Plants taken from 
Agardb, there being as yet no British arrangement so 
complete, 



Conferva Hutchinsise 
. . pellucida r 
. . flaccida 
. . rupestris 
. . littoralis 
. . lanosa 
. . feruginea 
. . lete-virens 
. . confervicola 
Choetospora Wiggii rr 
Ectocai'pus granulosus 
.... ferrugineus 
.... tomeutosus 
.... siliqulosus 

* First found in Torbay. 
Common Laver % Found in Torbay only 



Cladostephus spongiosus 
. . . . verticilatus 
Ceramium rubrum 

. . diaphaneum 

. . ciliatum r 

. . pedicel] atum 

. . arbuscula 

. . corymbosum r 

. . roseum r 

. . purpurescens r 

. . Borreri r 

. . tetricum 

.. plumula& many other 
not described. 



BOTANY OP TORBAT. 



70 



Griffithsia equisetifolia 
.... corallina r 
.... multifida r 
.... setacea r 
Mesogloia multifida 
.... capillaris rr 
.... vermicularis r and 
some species not described. 
Polysiphonia agardhiana r 
.... Brodicei rr 
.... byssoides 
.... coccinea 



Polysiphonia agardhiana r 

. . . . divaricata rr 

. . . . elongata 

. . . . fasti giata 

. . . . fruticulosa 

. . . . filamentosa 

. . . . urceolata r 

. . . . rosea 

Sphacellaria cirrhosa 

. . . . plumosa 

. . . . velutina 

. . . . scoparia,& many others 



*It is almost unnecessary to observe that the plants in this cata- 
logue marked r, are rare; rr, very rare; and rrr particularly rai'e. 
We have much pleasure in announcing that a comprehensive and 
elaborate account of the British Conferva?, from the pen of Dr. 
Hooker, is now preparing for publication; and that it will appear 
in the volume which will complete Sir J. E. Smith's English Botany* 

Among the Molluscous Animals may be noticed — 



Sepia officinalis, cuttle fish 
Loligo vulgaris, squid, orpen 

and ink fish 
Loligo media, pasture master 
Octopus octopodia 
Doris argo 
.... verucosa 



Doris marginata 
. . . . nodosa 
. . . . quadricornis 
Tritonia hombergii 
. . . . arborescens 
. . . . pinnatifida 



Several species of Holothuriae, Aplesice, Medusse. 
Ascidia, Asterice, &c. 

According to Fleming's arrangement. 



Patella vulgata 
.... pellucida 
.... loevis 
.... virginea 
Aplisia depilans 
.... viridis 
Pleurobranchus plumula 
membranaceus 



CONCHOLOGY. 

Bulla lignaria 
hydatis 
cylindracea 
truncata 
aperta 
punctata 

Turbo littoreus- 
Petreus 



80 



CONCHOLOGY OF TORBAY. 



Turbo rudis 


Nerita littoral is 


.... quadrifasciatus 


Natica glaucina 


.... decussatus 


.... rufa 


.... margarita 


.... intricata 


.... fulgidus 


.... pallidula 


Ianthina communis 


— . puteolus 


Phasianella polita 


Trochus magus 


subulata 


.... umbilicatus 


pallida 


.... cinarius 


Turritella terebra 


.... tumidus 


subtruncata 


.... crassus 


elegantissima 


papillosus 


truncata 


.... ziziphinus 


Cingula cimex 


.... striatus 


.... subcarinata 


Velutina Icevigata 


.... calathisca 


otis 


.... striatula 


stylifera 


.... costata 


Cyprsea europea 


.... parva 


Volva patula 


.... reticulata 


Volvaria alba 




Marginella voluta 


.... semicostata 


Tornatella tornatilis 




Acteon denticulatus 


.... semistriata 


Nasa reticulata 


.... labiosa 


.... incrassata 


.... Pulla 


. . . . ambigua 




Purpura lapillus 


. . t . ulvse 


Buccinum undatum 




Terebra tubercularis 


.... rubra 


. . . . reticulata 




Fusus antiquus 


.... cingilla 


. . . . coraeus 


Odostomia unidentata 


. . . . costatus 


plicata 


. . . . minimus 


spiralis 


. . . . linearis 


Scalaria clathrus 


. . . purpureus 


.... clathratulus 


Pleurotoma gracilis 


.... Turtoni 


rriton erinaceus 


.... Trevilliana 


lostellaria pes-pelicani 


Skensea depressa I 


Segaretus haliotoideus 


.... serpuloides 


tentaculatus 



C0NCH0L0GY OF TORBAY. 



81 



Calyptrea chinensis 
Capulus hungaricus 
Fissurella grseca 

apertura 

Emarginula fissura 
Dentalium Entalis 

politum 

labiatum 

Serpula vermicularis 

contortuplicatus 

Vermilia triquetra 

Bib alba*. 

Pecten maxirnus 
.... opercularis 
.... lineatus 
.... sinuosus 
.... varius 
.... pusio 
.... obsoletus 
.... lsevis 
Lima fragilis 
.... suborbiculata 
Ostrea edulis 
.... parasitica 
Anomia ephippium 

squamula 

undulata 

cylindrica 

aculeata 

Area fusca 
.... lactea 
Pectunculus pilosus 
Nucula nuclea 
.... minuta 
Avicula hirundo 
Mytilus edulis 
Modiola vulgaris 

Gibbsii 

diserepans 

discors 



Cardium aculeatum 
.... tuberculatum 
.... echinatum 
.... nodosum 
.... exiguum 
.... edule 
.... fasciatum 
.... lcevigatum 
Corbula striata 
Mactra solida 
. . . . truncata 
. . . . subtruncata 
. . . . stultorum 
. . . . cinerea 
Goodallia triangularis 
. . . . minutissima 
Lepton squamosum 
Kellia suborbicularis 

rubra 

Amphidesma convexum 

pubescens 

truncatum 

compressum 

declive 

distortum 

prismaticum 

album 

Donax truncalus 
Tellina fabula 

squalida 

crassa 

Psammobia florida 

ferroensis 

salidula 

ro tun data 

Crassina sulcata 

Danmonise 

Lucina radula 

flexuosa 

Cyprina islandica 
Cytherea chione 



82 



CONCH OLOGY OF TORBAY. 



Cytherea exoleta 


Mya norvegica 


.... lincta 


Lutraria vulgaris 


.... ovata 


.... hyans 


Venus verrucosa 


M ontacuta substriata a 


.... seflexa 


.... bidentata 


.... cassina 


.... ferruginosa 


.... fasciata 


Sphenia Bin gh ami 


.... gall in a 


Pandora margaritacea 


.... undata 


.... obtusa 


.... sinuosa 




Venerupis perforans 


jPfoltibaKutf 


...... Irus 




pallustra 


Chiton Fascicularis 


decussata 


.... margin atus 


virginea 


.... ruter 


Teredo navalis 


.... cinereus 


.... malleolus 


.... lcevis 


Xylophaga dorsalis, -| 


.... albus 


Pholas lamellata, I new 


Balanus rugosa 


.... papyraeea, J 


. . . . communis 


.... dactylus 


.... angustata 


.... parva 


.... punctata 


.... Candida 


. . . . balanoides 


Gastrochaena hians 


. . . . scotica 


Solen vagina 


. . . . intertexta 


.... novacula 


. . . . spongiosa 


.... siliqua 


Pergoma anglicum on ma 




drepora caryophillia 


.... pellucidus 


Lepas anatifera 




sulcata 


Hiatilla rugosa 


. . . aureta 




. . . membranacea 


Mya truncata 


. . . scalpellum 



Madrepora caryophillia ISpatangus purpurescens 
Echinus esculentus jEchiocyamus pusillus 

Spatangus cordatus jComatula barbata very rare 

Several species of Asteriae (or Star fish) Actineee (sea 
Anemonies) Gorgoniae (or sea Trees) Corallinae, Cellu- 
lariee, Sertulariae, Alcyonia, Spongiae, Flustrae, Tubulariae, 
&c. &c. are frequently thrown on the shore or taken in 
the trawle nets. 






CONCHOLOGY OF TORQUAY 



83 



The land and fresh water shells of this neighbour- 
hood are described and correctly figured in a small and 
useful work lately published by Dr. Turton, " A manual of 
land and fresh water shells of the British Islands." 
Amongst the Bivalves may be found in the vicinity 
of Torquay — 



Cyclas cornea [Helix rupestris 


mibtdb& 


. . . pygmcea 


Limacellus parma 


. . . fulva 


.... unguiculus 


. . . . pulchella 


.... obliquus 


Carocolla lapicida 


Vitrina pellucida 


Clausilia rugosa 


Helix nemoralis 


. . . . parvula 


.... hortensis 


Bulimus obscurus 


.... arbustorum 


. . , . lubricus 


.... rufescens 


. . . , lineatus 


.... virgata 


.... fas ciatus 


.... caparata 


Balaea fragilis 


.... spinulosa 


Achatina acicula 


.... aspersa 


Succinea amphibia 


.... Ericetorum 


Cyclostoma elegans 


.... nitens 


Carychium minimum 


.... lucida 


Pupa umbilicata 


Helix hispi da 


.... marginata 


.... crystallina 


.... edentula 


.... radiata 


1 Vertigo pygmsea 


In fresh water we 


j find the following 


Wnit 


alte& 


JPlanorbis rhombeus 


Physa fontinalis 


vortex 


Paludina vivipara 


...... planatus 


Neritina fluviatilis 


contortus 


Ancylus fluviatilis 


Limneus pereger 


i 



PART IV. 

WALKS, EXCURSIONS, AND SKETCHES OF SCENERY. 



Fair are the provinces that England boasts, 

Lovely the verdure, exquisite the flowers 

That bless her hills and dales ; her streamlets clear, 

Her seas majestic, and her prospects all 

Of old, as now, the pride of British song ! 

But England sees not on her charming map 

A goodlier spot than our fine Devon — rich 

Art thou in all that Nature's hand can give 

Land of the matchless view ! 

Carrington* 
Walk to Tor Abbey and Tor, over Warren Hill. 

There are few objects in the neighbourhood of Tor- 
quay which a stranger would sooner desire to visit than 
Tor Abbey. Its picturesque situatiou and the prominent 
place it occupies in the different combinations of local 
scenery, added to those higher associations with which 
antiquity has invested it, give it a character of imposing 
and delightful interest. A winding path along the brow 
of Warren hill, sheltered by trees from almost every 
wind, leads us to the meadows of the Abbey. The fas- 
cinating variety of scenery which is now presented to 
the eye deserves more than ordinary admiration. The 
clear blue bay, the wavy hills of Galmpton and Good- 
rington, the harbour of Brixham, Berryhead and the 
channel, with perhaps many a bark hastening on its voy- 
age, are visible in the distance, and as we advance fur- 
ther, the village, tower and sands of Paignton open gra- 
dually to our view. To the right " midway between the 
landscape and the sky," Chapel hill rears its venerable 
head, and the tower of Tor church is seen peering 
above the foliage which surrounds it. 




TOR ABBEY. 85 

Tor Abbey is the seat of Henry Cary, Esq. 
in whose family the property has remained since 
the year 1662. The celebrated monastery of 
that name was founded in 1196 by Lord William Brewer, 
and was suppressed in 1543j when the site was granted 
to John St. Leger, Esq. After passing through several 
hands, it became the property of the Cary's of Cocking- 
ton, by purchase from Sir John or Joseph Stowell of 
Indiho. The present building is comparatively modern, 
and was constructed chiefly with the ruins of the mo- 
nastery. Westcote states that Tor Abbey House was 
built by the Ridge ways ; Thos. Ridge way, Esq. having 
bought the property in 1598. The building consists of 
a centre and two wings, the western being connected 
with the ancient castellated gateway with octagonal towers 
and battlements ; this and the barn adjoining, now partly 
overgrown with ivy and ornamented with buttresses and 
loop-holes, cannot fail to excite the attention of every 
visitor. Many parts of the interior bespeak great an- 
tiquity, and the ruins of the conventual church on the 
north side of the mansion are highly interesting. The 
gardens in which they are situated are very extensive 
and abound with the various productions of useful and 
ornamental horticulture. Tor Abbey was the favourite 
residence of Earl St. Vincent, during the late war, while 
Torbay was the rendezvous of the channel fleet; some 
valuable documents comprising his plans for the order 
of battle in the event of the arrival of the French fleet, 
are still preserved here. The mansion contains many 
fine paintings, among which are Apollo playing to Jesse 
by Callcott ; Aurora by Phillips ; Children overtaken by 
a storm, and a Peasant Boy and Girl by Howard ; the 
Descent of Eurydice, the Distressed Father, the La- 
vinia, and a Night scene by Thompson ; Juno feeding 
the Eagle by Sir William Beechey ; aud a whole- 
length Figure by Opie. The prospect from the house 
find also from the grounds about it, is truly beau- 
tiful. We may wander here again and again, we may 
dwell herein silence or soften into contemplative thought, 
and still fipd something to please and to instruct. We 
may drop the tributary tear at the sacrilege which 
I 



S6 TORMTOHUN. 

has been here committed, — here we may perchance 
tread the grave where the votary is iulied in the 
sleep of death — here we may wander through the ave- 
tttres where oft was heard the chant of fair religion's hymn— 
f Here silent pause, here draw the pensive sigh 
' Here musing learn to live, here learn to die.' 
For the antiquities of Tor Abbey we refer the readers to 
another division of this work. We may now enter the 
noble avenues and proceed to the village of Tormohun. 
The name of this parish is very ancient, having been con- 
ferred by the Mohuns at the commencement of the 13th 
century. It is still preserved in the correct orthogra- 
phy, despite the barbarous innovation of Tormoham. 
The church is supposed to have been erected about the 
commencement of the 14th century, and is the second 
fabric in this parish of which we have record. The ec- 
clesiastical j urisdiction is vested in the Rev. Roger 
Mallock, of Cockington Court, who is patron of the do- 
native which has been augmented by parliamentary 
grant, and by Queen Anne's bounty. The great tithes 
were sold by Mr. Mallock, some years ago, to Sir 
Lawrence Palk and Mr. Cary, between whom the ma- 
nor is divided, each receiving the tithes belonging to his 
own estate. Cockington is united to the living which is 
a perpetual curacy ; the present incumbent is the Rev. 
H. Gee. The annual value of the parish as assessed 
in 1815 was ^63516., and the population, according to 
the returns of last year, is 3582. The church contains 
many interesting relics, the oldest sepulchral stose bears 
the date of 1516, in memory of one of the Rartlot family. 
Within the church, as well as in the yard, are many ele- 
gant monumental tablets and other memorials of a recent 
date, belonging to persons who have died at Torquay, 
while resident there for the benefit of their health. On 
the outer corbels of the east window of the chancel, 
are the arms of Brewer, Mohun and Tor Abbey. 






Tor Abbey Brewer Mohun 

It is impossible to pass through this crowded burial- 
place, and not feel the contrast presented by the nar- 



TORMOHUN. $7 

row cells " in which " the rude forefathers of the hamlet 
sleep," and the costly altar-tombs with which they are 
surrounded. We are at all times too much engaged with 
present things in contemplating a clrurch-yard to give a 
thought ' to the village Hampdens ' of the generations 
that have passed away with the monuments which re- 
corded their existence. ' The boast of heraldry, the 
pomp of power', are here seen beside the frail memorials 
of mortality, inscribed with uncouth rhymes and shape- 
less sculpture, 

* the short but simple annals of the poor.' 

The village of Tor occupies an open and elevated 
situation ; it has lately much improved in accommodations 
for visitors, and the beauty of the surrounding scenery 
is so attractive that it is frequently preferred as a resi- 
dence to other places in the neighbourhood. The Stamp 
and Post Office is at the shop of Mr. Tapley, Linendra- 
per. The Post Office is regulated in the same manner 
as that of Torquay, the arrival of letters being rather 
earlier, and the departure later than in the latter place.. 
The evening post closes at half past 6, and the morning 
mail passes through the village about half past 7- It re- 
turns in the evening rather before 7 o'clock ; the deli- 
very of the western letters takes place about 8 in the 
morning. 

The chief attraction in the village is the extensive 
Nursery of Mr. Morgan. The gardens occupy a consi- 
derable space, and are laid out with much ingenuity and 
good taste. The green-house abounds with rare exotics. 
The scenery around Tor is very interesting : — Tor hill 
between the Nursery and the Church, commands a pan- 
oramic view of unrivalled beauty, embracing the bay 
and its wooded shores, the tower of St. Mary Church 
and the romantic defile of Upton. The view from Stajit- 
away hill, between Tor and Upton, will amply repay the 
trouble of ascending; the rich vale below it is well con- 
trasted with the entrance of the rocky pass we have just 
mentioned. 

On our return to Torquay by the public road, we pass 
the castellated building recently erected by Mr. Luscombe, 
and Ellacombe, the retired and pleasant residence of 
Francis Garratt, Esq. The heights around Ellacombe 
command a rich variety of scenery, particularly Appaway 



88 TOR ABBEY SANDS AND LIVERMEAD. 

hill, from which the eve ranges to the misty summits of 
High Tor. 

After visiting Tor Abbey, we may vary our walk by 
turning into the path leading to the sands, which extend 
from the rocks of Warren hill to the cliffs of the Corbons. 
A fine sandstone arch which projected into the sea from 
these cliffs fell a few years ago, undermined, perhaps, 
by the constant encroachments of the waves. The pholas 
is found in the soft rock of these sands. A low rocky 
ledge, the Harbrick, which is dry at low water, supplies 
collectors with madrepores, and is also rich in many 
productions of marine botany. The Beekite, a new min- 
eral named in honour of the Dean of Bristol, was first 
found at the Corbons. Some of the caverns at this point 
are of considerable extent. In rough weather, roots of 
trees buried in the sands are frequently exposed ; this 
has given rise to the absurd opinion that Torbay was 
once a forest, as we have stated in the introduction. It 
was proposed, some years ago, to form a road leading 
from Torquay to Tor Abbey sands, around the base of 
Warren hill. It is to be regretted that a measure on 
every account so desirable was not effected : were this 
road made, the invalid would possess an extent of ground 
for exercise, either on horse or foot, unequalled in any 
part of the island ; and he would be able to enjoy the re- 
freshing air of the sands, which the ascent of the hill now 
renders inconvenient. It is in contemplation to erect a 
number of cottages on the Warren hill, and a plan has 
been proposed for this purpose by an architect of great 
ability, — Mr. Brown of London. Whenever the scheme 
is effected, we trust that the first aim will be to pre- 
serve the natural beauty of the hill, which now consti- 
tutes one of the most essential ornaments of Tor- 
quay. A lane at the western extremity of the Abbey 
sands, conducts us to those of Livermead. When 
the tide permits, we may extend our walk round 
part of the headland in front of the delightful cottage- 
villa of the Rev. R. Mallock, and visit Thunder-hole a 
cavern so called from the resemblance of the roaring of 
the sea in its recesses to peals of thunder. The entrance 
of the cave is divided by columns, round which a boat 



CHAPEL HILL. 



80 



can easily pass at the proper time of the tide. There was 
formerly a mill on this headland. At low water circular 
cavities may be observed in the rocks, apparently produ- 
ced by the manufacture of mill-stoues. The rock is a 
hard, compact grit, and is well adapted for that 
purpose. In one cavity, the stone was evidently broken 
in the process of extraction. These circles afford shel r 
ter to many of the more tender algce. An establishment 
for curing pilchards, we believe, once existed at Liveiv 
mead. The remains of the old pier are still visible ; the 
stones are large, and the northern portion is tolerably 
perfect. There were also piers of this kind at Paignton 
and Babbicombe, but very few vestiges of the latter re- 
main. On one of the rocks at a short distance outside 
the pier, an Iron ring for mooring or warping vessels is 
seen at low water. Livermead House, the lodging estab- 
lishment of Miss Mudge, is pleasantly situated near 
these sands. 




There are few spots in this neighbourhood which com- 
mand a greater variety of magnificent scenery than 
"* Chapel Hill," a lofty limestone hill, rising above the 
Newton road at a short distance from the village of Tor. 
The building which stands conspicuous on its summit m 
in length 2% feet, by 14 feet 3, and faces east and west?. 
It is peculiarly situated on the apex of the rock, as if a 
strong wind would blow it away. On the latter side are 
two small windows, and in the cell of the lowest 
are the remains of a perpendicular and two horizontal 
irons. The window on the east side is larger, and there 
are the vestiges of a porch on the southern side, a few 
feet only from the brow of the precipice. This building- 
has been thought to have been a chapel connected with 
Tor Abbey, and dedicated to St. Michael ; hut a very 



90 CflAPEL HILL. 

feeble light has yet been thrown on the objects of its 
erection. Some have proposed the idea that it was a vo- 
tive chapel erected probably by some mariner on escaping" 
a tempest, of which description we have an instance in 
the chapel of Brent-tor in this county, dedicated! to St. 
Michael, who appears to have been a favourite saint 
among the weather-beaten navigators. Others have 
considered it a religious edifice, t( where pilgrims were 
wont to repair, and by an expiatory penance atone for a 
life of pleasure ; others have imagined that it was the 
chapel which Reginald de Mohun erected within this 
parish ; but we have decisive evidence to prove that 
ileginald by permission of the Abbot of the Monastery 
at Torre, erected a private chapel at his court-house on 
the eastern side of the church,* and we therefore can- 
not agree with the opinion that the building owes its 
origin to this nobleman. Of its connexion with the 
Abbey it would be absurd to entertain a doubt ; but as 
we have such frail authority for the time and cause of 
its establishment, we feel reluctant to subscribe to the 
belief that it was ever appropriated tothe services of reli- 
gious worship. We have not been able to discover any ves- 
tiges of a fioor within its walls, and we are much in- 
clined to conclude that the ouly flooring it ever pos- 
sessed was the rock on which it stands. The portions 
of iron grating in the window cells — its exposed situa- 
tion — the roof of stone and every other circumstance 
connected with the building, lead us to suggest that it 
bears more decisive evidence of having been a strong 
place of punishment than of ever having been intended 
for the purposes of devotion. The cross on the eastern 
end of the roof was erected by Mr. Sharland, by order 
of the Dowager Marchioness of Bute. 

The view which this hill commands is truly beautiful ; 
the grounds of Shiphay, the residence of the Rev. Wm. 
Kitson, lie immediately below it ; and in the distance 
the eye ranges over the Channel, Berry-head, Brixham, 
the valley of Torquay, the luxuriant woods of the Abbey, 
*nd Torbay with the villages, wood, hills aud vales 
which form the characteristic features of its shores. 
* Dugdale's Monastieon. 



ILSAM, HOPE S NOSE AND ANSTY S COVE. 



91 



In our next walk we shall proceed to Meadfoot sands 
and the vale of Ilsam. A road passing- in front of the In- 
dependent Chapel leads us direct to Meadfoot. This 
little bay is formed by the promontory of Park hill, 
which thus appears to divide Torbay into two parts. The 
appearance of these portions is remarkably different, and 
their geological dissimilarity has been already noticed. 
The steep cliffs and scattered rocks of Meadfoot give it 
a scenery peculiar to itself when contrasted with the 
features of the neighbouring shores. At a short distance 
from the beach are the Shag-stone, Thatcher, and Oar- 
stone rocks. 

At the extremity of the sands, a narrow pathway 
formed through the furze-brakes leads us along the brow 
of the hills to Hope's Nose, the north-eastern boundary 
of Torbay. The ophrys apifera is found in great lux- 
uriance on the hills above the Nose. From this point 
another path conducts us to Hope Farm, an old building 
of whose history nothing, we believe, is known. A short 
distance beyond it, is Ilsam, now employed as a farm 
yard, — the estate being occupied by Mr. Bartlett. 

The doorway and wall 
in front of Mr. Bartlett 's 
residence, bespeak great 
antiquity. The building 
in the yard was formerly 
a cell of the Abbey, and 
the place on the roof 
where a bell was sus- 
pended is still visible. 
After leaving Ilsam, a 
road diverging near the 
quarries leads us to 
Ansty's Cove, or we 
may proceed along the 
hills on our right as we 
leave the farm ; the lat- 
ter will perhaps be pre- 
ferable, as the place is 
best seen from the cliffs. 
From the heights on 
either side of the Cove 





1' . ; 


IIPP 


« " • ^Klk ~ 




gpMll 






uii|H>w 




sfpjfl 




Srratf 1 "" infl 






J^P^^^^f 



there is an appearance of dreary and solitary grandeur, 
which is not a little increased by the lofty elevation of the 
precipices. In the eastern part, the rocks on each side of a 
steep defile leading to the quarries, so accurately re- 
semble each other in their perpendicular position, as to 
appear to have been divided by mechanical art. The 
romantic character of the Cove is not improved by 
the blasting in the quarries, but it is still highly gratify- 
ing to the lover of the wild works of nature. There is a 
small Cavern in these rocks from which Mr. M.' Enery 
.has obtained many fossil remains. The antiquary will 
recognise with pleasure the traces of the lines of the 
Roman camp on the High Downs above Ansty's Cove ; 
these and other circumstances connected with this station 
are fully discussed in the archaeological department. The 
discovery of Roman lines in this place was highly satis- 
factory, inasmuch as it proved the early navigation of 
these seas. 

Ry continuing our walk over the downs, or by 
rejoining the public road, we shall soon arrive at the 
Swiss village of Rabbicombe ; we shall however reserve 
it for a future excursion, and now return to Torquay, 
visiting Tor-wood house on our way. This old mansion, 
formerly called Tor-wood grange, belonged to Tor Ab- 
bey, and was granted in 1540 to John Ridgeway Esq. 
whose son purchased the abbey of the Seymours. It 
thus became the seat of the Earls of Londonderry. It 
stands on a beautiful knoll overlooking Torbay and 
commanding a considerable extent of seenery. Although 
now occupied as a farm house, it still retains many in- 
teresting evidences of its former consequence. The 
exterior appearance of the building — the old court yard — 
the wainscotted walls of the sitting-room and bed-room — 
the massive stairs of oak, and the carved doorways and 
ornamented ceilings sufficiently attest the distant period 
of its erection. The lead shute bears date 1579, with 
the letters T. R., — erected probably by Thomas Ridge- 
way, first Earl of Londonderry, who was, it is said, born 
here. The present respectable occupier, Mr. John 
Mudge, obligingly allows any visitors to inspect the 
building. 



PARK HILL AND DADDY'S HOLE. 93 

It is almost unnecessary to enter minutely into the 
details of a walk round Park Hill and Daddy's Hole, as 
the reader is supposed to be already acquainted with it ; ; 
nor is it possible to lay down any rules for pedestrian 
excursions in a neighbourhood so abundant in resources 
and capable of giving so great a variety to all our rambles. 

After passing the Ladies' bathing cove near the Bea- 
con hill, we soon meet with a road on our right leading 
to the " look out" a seat erected at the extremity of the 
pathway. The Gentlemen's bathing cove is below it, 
and the arch called " London Bridge" is seen imme- 
diately beyond the quarries. We rejoin the public road, 
and proceed to Daddy-Hole-plain by a path outside the 
grounds of Park Hill cottage, the residence of Colonel 
Otley. The prospect from this place is extremely fine ; 
the channel extends before us to a considerable distance ; 
on the one hand we trace the cottages and hamlets 
along the shores of the bay, terminated by Brixham 
and Berry-head, — and on the other the Orestone and 
Thatcher rocks with the high ground ab ove Meadfoot 
sands; — while we recognise in the distance the dusky 
outline of Dartmoor and the cloven peak of High Tor. The 
chasm in the extreme point of the cliff, which is gene- 
rally known by the name of Daddy's Hole, is overgrown 
with ivy, and the ash is flourishing there in wild lux- 
uriance. In our return we shall leave Rock-View House 
on our right and pass through the plantations at the back 
of Woodbine cottage, the marine villa of Mrs. Johnes. This 
delightful residence is one of the leading ornaments of Tor- 
quay. The roof of the cottage is apparently supported by a 
colonnade of poilards ; it was constructed after the de- 
signs of Mr. Foulston. The interior is fitted up with 
great elegance and taste ; the floors are inlaid with choice 
specimens of Devonshire marble, and the principal 
sitting-room opens into the conservatory which is rich 
in curious exotics. The creepers are tastefully trained 
over light arches springing from the capitals of a double 
range of cast-iron columns. The effect produced by 
the introduction of plate glass at the extremity of the 
apartment is very pleasing. The green-house is well 
stocked with rare plants, and the grounds of the villa 



94 BABBICOMBE. 

are laid out with much skill, now being adorned with 
flowers and now opening- into terraces commanding the 
rich scenery around the bay. 

The view from the gardener's cottage is singularly 
delightful ; after passing the gate of the plantation near 
this cottage the stranger is requested to turn a little to 
the right, when he will enjoy a lovely prospect of the 
terrace and houses immediately around it, the Braddons, 
Torwood house, &c. The path through the plantation 
will now conduct us down the hill into Park Place, and 
give us some interesting peeps of picturesque scenery in 
our way. 

In our next walk we visit Babbicombe. This roman- 
tic hamlet is situated in a deep and rocky glen in the parish 
of St. Mary Church, the sides of which rise with singu- 
lar beauty from an open beach. On the slopes of the hill 
amidst the rocks, villas in the rustic style have been 
erected, and the peculiar formation of the valley, has 
contributed to enhance the effect of art by its own natural 
^resources. Babbicombe is open to the east and is there- 
fore affected by the winds from that quarter. Lofty hills 
shelter it from the west and south, so that its position 
with respect to winds is the reverse of that enjoyed bv 
Torquay. There are few accommodations for strangers, 
but the wild beauty of the hamlet and the magnificent 
surrounding scenery ensure an ample influx of visitors. 
It is also favourably situated for water exercise ; and its 
convenient distance from Teignmouth and Torquay gives 
an additional interest to its aquatic excursions. The 
scenery around Babbicombe is particularly fine. From 
the hills above we enjoy a prospect which is not surpass- 
ed in any part of this district. The ocean expands im- 
mediately below us, bounded on the north by the celebra- 
ted marble quarries of Petit Tor, and the high land 
including the rocky creeks of Watcombe and Maiden- 
combe. In clear weather, the line of coast with the 
intermediate towns of Teignmouth, Dawlish, Exmouth 
and Sidmouth, and the entrance to the ancient port of 
Seaton, may be traced as far as the bill of Portland. The 
cottages of the village add another variety to the scene ; 
among them are the residences of J. Atkins Esq. Mrs 



BABBICOMBE. 95 

Whitehead and Mr. Cosserat, and others which are fur- 
nished as lodging houses fur the accommodation of visitors. 
The cottages of the fishermen and the store rooms attached 
to the Preventive Service, are situated near the beach, 
at a short distance from which is a small inn ; another 
inn is now erecting in the high ground above the village, 
commanding a great extent of scenery. On this hill is 
the range of buildings established by Government for the 
Officers and men of the Coast Guard Service. 

Babbicombe had formerly a Regatta jointly with Tor- 
quay, under the title of the '* Torquay and Babbicombe 
Regatta." Some of our readers no doubt retain the re- 
membrance of many a pleasant day spent at the anniver- 
saries of this festival. " How happy did this sweet spot 
appear in the days of the late hospitable and lamented 
owner of Tor Abbey, when the morning dawned on the 
busy scene of activity and life which told of the arrival 
of that day of mirth, holiday and rejoicing — the Regatta. 
How happy did it appear when the gilded barks spread 
their snowy sails to the gentle gale, and in eager rivalry 
ploughed the rippling waters of the bay. How happy 
when the conquering hero of the wave returned amid the 
applauding cheers of the beholders and welcomed to the 
shores by the majestic warblings of music's song. We 
have as yet trod a path, and we are now following its 
windings, where a few years ago, the heath bell waved 
silently in the breeze, where the erica raised her pur- 
ple flowers in the balmy air, and the golden blossom* 
of the furze told of the forbidden regions of the 
fairy kind. Many a bright morn had thrown her 
ruddy smile over the hill and the dale — many a lightly 
tripping monarch of the sacred ring had dashed the dew- 
drop from the glittering herbage, and nought save the 
gale sighed softly in the valley, ere human industry had 
marked this spot for cultivation or improvement. 
These, however, are the scenes so teeming with natural 
beauty and attractions, which engage the attention of 
every stranger. Nothing more is sought or required 
than the general assertion that we may wander far and 
near and when chance may guide our steps hither, we 
shall be compelled to say — 

" Speak not of Italy — she cannot show 
A brighter scene than this."* 
* Inserted in a total JourriaL 1828. 



96 ST. MARY CHURCH AND BARTON. 

We now proceed to St. Mary Church, a neat and 
healthy village situated on a limestone hill about one 
mile from the bay of Babbicombe, and two from Tor- 
quay. As we enter it from the Babbicombe road we pass 
Hampton House, the late residence of Mrs. Wilson 
Ff ranee ; 

" And on the summit where the soft clouds rest 
" Sancta Maria, stands thy Temple blest."* 

The Church occupies an elevated spot in the centre of the 
village, and is a well-known landmark. The Vicarage- 
House adjoining was rebuilt a few years ago, with much 
taste, by the present vicar, the Rev. Geo, Coleridge. A 
little to the south of the Church is South Hampton, the 
property and residence of R. H. Angwin Esq. The manor 
of St. Mary Church and the barton of Babbicombe are 
the property of Henry Cary, Esq. of Tor Abbey. The 
dean and chapter of Exeter are appropriators of the 
great tithes and patrons of the vicarage, which is in their 
peculiar jurisdiction. f The annual value of the. parish, 
as denoted by the parliamentary returns of 1815, was 
.£3830, and the population according to the returns of 
last year 1204. The lane in front of Mr. Woodley's 
Marble Works leads to the Petit Tor quarries, which 
produce the finest known varieties of Devonshire lime- 
stone. We shall return to Torquay by the stony valley, and 
pass in our way the fertile vale of Paver and the cotta- 
ges of the Combes. A lane to the right as we enter 
the public road, leads through Paver to Barton, if we 
wish to visit that place. The limestone quarries of Bar- 
on have been already noticed in the article on Geology 
as abounding with shells. Barton Cross commands 
one of the most splendid prospects in this district. The 
village is now little frequented, although twenty years 
ago, the principal road to Newton to St. Mary Church 
passed through it. There is a small meeting house 
there, belonging to the Wesleyans, which is, we believe, 
the oldest place of worship connected with that denomi- 
nation in the neighbourhood. By continuing our way 
along the public road from Paver to Torquay, we shall 
soon reach the Stony Valley, in the bottom of which 
the new road to Teignmouth has been formed. The 
* Bcoker. + Lysons- 



STONY VALLEY, AND THE WARBERRY. 97 

wild appearance of this valley cannot fail to engage the 
attention of the eye of taste, after it has enjoyed the 
rich and fertile aspect of the surrounding country. We 
have here a good example of the scenery of Torquay ; — 
at one step we are presented with a prospect combining 
all the essentials of picturesque and Italian beauty, and 
at another, with scenes which must remind the traveller 
of the most romantic parts of Switzerland. The con- 
trast created by these successions of landscape, and the 
effect produced by their frequent combination give a 
variety to the scenery of this place which contributes 
largely to its attractions. The irregular and detached 
strata of limestone at the entrance of the Rocky Pass 
into the vale of Upton have a very picturesque appear- 
ance ; a curious natural arch with a " chimney-hole," 
immediately above the road, seems almost to be the 
work of art, and the effect produced by the mantling 
of ivy over these romantic crags is singularly impressive. 

By following the road to the left at the termination of 
the stony valley, we shall pass through the village of 
Upton, or we may follow the public road and return 
through Tor to Torquay. 

It is worthy of remark, that there is another pleasant 
walk to St. Mary Church by way of the Warberry. 
A road from Tor Braddons, adjoining Mr. Rossiter's 
villa, conducts us through the plantations to the path- 
fields leading to this high land. It is impossible to 
imagine a more magnificent panorama of this enchanting 
country than that which we enjoy from different parts 
of the Warberry. The old manor-house of Torwood, 
and the plantations of Flag-Staff hill and the Warren 
lie below us with a few of the houses and villas of Tor- 
quay which are not concealed from view by the Brad- 
dons rocks ; beyond, the outline of the bay from the 
Orestone and Thatcher to the Berry extends before us, 
and the Channel is commanded for many miles beyond 
that lofty headland. The inland prospect embraces 
Chapel Hill, Tor, the white tower of St. Mary Church, 
and the distant hills in the rear ; — and a few steps fur- 
ther, we look down on the entrance of the bay of Babbi- 
combe, and the towns of Teignmouth and Dawlish ; be- 
lt 



98 COCKINGTON. 

yond which we trace the line of coast for a considerable 
distance. 



The path over Warren hill and through the avenues at 
the back of Tor Abbey conducts us across the Dartmouth 
road into a path-field which will bring us to the little 
hamlet of Chelston ; — From this place we may enjoy a 
pleasant walk through the fields to Cockington. We may 
also vary our ramble by proceeding from Torquay direct 
to Livermead and by there taking the road to Cockington 
which will bring us to the entrance of the village ; or we 
may have a third route, by joining the public road from 
Tor to Cockington which abounds with delightful scenery 
and passes through part of the village of Chelston. There 
is so much to admire in these several rambles that we 
must advise the reader to make himself personally ac- 
quainted with each of them. About the entrance of 
Cockington a carriage road leads us through the beautiful 
and fertile grounds of the Rev. R. Mallock. After pro- 
ceeding a short distance through them, the eye glances 
with delight on the venerable church, situated on a gentle 
acclivity in the lawn. This ancient fabric is a most pic- 
turesque and engaging object, it nearly adjoins the Court 
House the residence of the Rev. Roger Mallock, by 
whom the interior has been newly pewed. It has a tower 
with pinnacles ; the exterior is richly overspread with 
ivy and partially concealed from view by the surround- 
ing foliage. There is no burial-ground attached, but 
the church contains many memorials of the Cary family, 
by whom it was sold in 1654 to Roger Mallock, Esq., 
whose son, Rawlin Mallock, " sometime a justice of the 
peace for this county, and a member of Parliament, 
new builded the hou se, enclosed the park wall round a war- 
ren and large gardens, fitted up the ponds, and made it as 
gentile and commodious a dwelling as mostin this county."* 

On the right wing of the mansion the date 
1560 still remains, and on the left 1670, the 
same year as that recorded on the lead shute 
at Tor wood. The former date was probably 
placed there by the Carys and preserved when the build- 
ing was renovated by the Mallocks. The latter denotes 
5 * Prince. 




COCKINGTON. f)9\ 

the period when the present front and left wing were 
erected by Rawlin Mallock, Esq. whose initials R. M. 
are visible on the opposite angle. The interior of 
the mansion harmonises well with its outward ap- 
pearance, and bespeaks antiquity. The rooms con- 
tain many fine family pictures, and are tastefully pre- 
served in keeping with the character of the building. 
The estate is the property of the Rev. Roger Mallock 
who is patron of the living, and has the power of prov- 
ing wills within the manor. Cockington is a donative 
and is united to the benefice of Tormohun. It has 
been augmented by parliamentary grant and by Queen 
Anne's bounty. The annual value of this property as* 
assessed in 1815 was 382109 ; the population according 
to the Parliamentary returns of 1831, is 223, Cocking- 
ton is remarkably healthy, and the registers abound witli 
instances of longevity. In eighteen years beginning 
with 1813 and ending with 1830 inclusive, there were 
only 76 burials connected with the parish, of which 40 
Were males and 36 females. Of this number for ty- one 
died at the age of 60 and upwards, — twelve between 30 
and 60, — nine between 2 and 30, — and fourteen at 2 
years and under. In the ten years from 1821 to 1830 
inclusive, there were 44 burials, 21 marriages, and 55 
baptisms, of which 29 were female and 26 male chil- 
dren. In 1819, in a total mortality often, there were five 
above the age of 70, whose united ages amounted to 398. t 
> The Carys are supposed to have possessed the manor 
of Cockington by purchase, in the middle of the 14th 
century ; their family residence for many generations 
was at Stantor in the parish of Marldon ; and soon after 
the alienation of the Cockington property, Sir. Geo. 
Cary purchased Tor Abbey, which became from that 
time the residence of his descendants. The Church 
contains many interesting relics, and will be visited by 
the antiquary with pleasure. We have elsewhere de- 
scribed the antiquities of the parish and church. 

+ Summary of the population &c. of the parish of Cockington. 
Inhabited Houses. Families. Number of Inhabitants/ 

1801 .. .. 63 .. .. 69 .. 294 

1811 .. .. 51 .. ..62 274 

1821 . . . . 50 . . .. 50 ..... , . . 280 
Population in 1831, 223. 



100 COCKINGTON WATCOMBE. 

We cannot leave the precincts of this sacred fabric 
without offering our tribute — feeble and inadequate though 
it be — to the memory of one whom this neighbour- 
hood will ever cherish and whose name is written 
in the hearts of all his parishioners. It is impossible 
for those who knew him to approach the altar at which 
he officiated, or to look upon that pulpit from which his 
earnest and impressive exhortations were addressed, 
without the warmest feelings of affectionate remembrance. 
His name is identified with universal charity — in him 
merit always found a friend, and to his generous heart 
the appeal of poverty was never made in vain : — 
Cui Pudor, et Justitise soror 
Incorrupta Fides, nudaque Veritas 
Qup.ndo ullum invenient paretn ? 
Multis ILLE bonis flebilis occidit. 
The Cockington estate is the most beautiful property 
on the shores of Torbay ; it presents a great variety of 
picturesque scenery, and the rich panoramic landscapes 
with which it every-where abounds are unrivalled. We 
now return to Torquay by either of the routes mentioned 
at the commencement of this article, and w T e leave the 
estate of Mr. Mallock with the cordial wish of the poet; 
Stet fortuna doraus, et avi nurnerentur avoruia. 



About two miles and a half from Torquay on the 
Teignmouth road, and a short distance beyond its junc- 
tion with those diverging to St. Mary Church and 
Paver, is a narrow lane leading into the valley of Wat- 
combe. 

Many of our readers, will, no doubt, make it a walk, 
and a very delightful one it will be. Soon after we 
enter the lane, the eye is engaged by numerous conical 
hillocks rising on different parts of the slope which forms 
the commencement of the rocky glen. A precipitous 
mass of rock full of cavernous irregularities ri«es from 
the highest and extreme ridge of this slope. As we de- 
scend on the side opposite to the rock we are gratified 
with the finest echo in this neighbourhood, although 
Torquay may with truth be called the "land of echoes." 
Continuing to descend the valley, we pass large masses 
of rock richly clothed with ivy, and soon arrive at the 
beach. We have no scenery in this neighbourhood like 



MAIDENCOMFE — PAIGNTDN. 101 

that about Watcombe ; it has a cast of wildness and soli- 
tude which is enhanced by the peculiar formation of the 
vale. The undulating- slope, the frequent conical hil- 
locks and the abrupt mass of lofty rock at the entrance 
of the defile, are finely contrasted with the dark-red 
cliffs and mural precipices which overhang the beach. 
Between Watcombe and Petit-Tor is Oddicombe, ano- 
ther rocky cove, which must be approached by a path 
leading from Babbicombe downs along the foot of Hamp- 
ton Lawn. Petit-Tor the mass of lime-rock rising 
amidst the red sand-stone which surrounds it, and af- 
fording the most splendid specimens of British marble* 
has been already mentioned ; but the Geologist will de- 
rive too much interest from the prevailing appearances 
of the two formations to pass it by unnoticed. The 
white pebbles drifted from these limestone strata into 
the bottoms of the coves at Watcombe and Oddicombe 
are valued for the delicate Madrepores they contain. 
After leaving Watcombe we proceed along the Teign- 
mouth road to the turnpike called "Solomon's Post," 
near which a lane condticts us to the romantic hamlet of 
Maidencombe§ in the parish of Stoke-in-teignhead. It 
is situated in a picturesque and fertile vale, which ter- 
minates on the south with a rocky undercliff ahounding 
in all the features of this description of scenery. A fine 
cascade, of about 30 feet, bursts over the perpendicular 
rock at the extremity of the beach on which it falls. 

Having visited this places, we return to Torquay by 
the Stony Valley and Tor, or by St. Mary Church and 
Babbicombe; 



We shall now set out on a longer walk, and visit 
Paignton andGoodrington. Proceeding along the Tor- 
Abbey sands, we soon join the Dartmouth road^ and after 
a walk of about 3 miles, arrive at Paignton. This village 
is situated in a district celebrated for the fertility of its 
soil and the delightful scenery of its neighbourhood. In. 
every part of the manor the eye rests with pleasure on 
successions of local richness and varied landscapes which 
are unrivalled even in this luxuriant, country. Paigntom 
§ : Pronounced MTnnicombe 



102 PAIGNTON — GOODRINGTON. 

has much improved within a few years ; many new houses 
have been erected* and much attention has been paid to 
the accommodations for invalids. We have already 
spoken on this subject in the article on Climate ; but it 
is worthy of remark that the secluded situation of many 
parts of the village, the rural beauty of its vicinity, and 
its conveniences with respect to sea-bathing render it a 
pleasant summer residence. There are many respect- 
able cottages in different parts of the village, and at its 
termination is Primley Hill, the property and residence 
of the Rev. Finney Belfield. The Church is a highly 
interesting fabric, and is a conspicuous object from dif- 
ferent parts of Torbay. The Vicarage-House is near it, 
the entrance to which bespeaks considerable antiquity. 
Below the church-yard are the dilapidated remains of 
the noble palace of the Bishops of Exeter, who had 
around it an extensive deer-park. The venerable ruins 
of this palace, crumbling gradually under the hand of 
Time and enshrouded in a rich vest of ivy, form a strik- 
ing contrast to the stately tower of the church which 
rises proudly above it. Paignton is called a borough* 
by Mr. Lysons, it also had a weekly market, and a fair 
for three days, at the festival of .the Holy Trinity, granted 
through the interest of the Bishop of the Diocese, in 
1294. The great tithes of the parish belong to the Pre- 
centor of Exeter cathedral. The annual value of 
the real property, as assessed in 1815, was 566602; the 
population, according to the returns of 1831, is 1960. 
There is now a holiday fair, on the Tuesday in Whitsun- 
week. The parish of Paignton includes the hamlets of 
Goodrington, Preston, Blagdon, and Collaton Kirkham. 
From Paignton we proceed along the cliffs to Goodring- 
ton, a small hamlet, celebrated in the late war for the 
Hospital which was maintained there. The building 
was purchased by Col. Drake, of Ipplepen, who has 
re-edified the house and converted it into a marine resi- 
dence ; — it commands a great extent of scenery. Good- 
rington sands are worthy the attention of the conchologist, 
as are those of Pajgnton. Roundham head, the abrupt 
and rocky promontory which terminates the high-laud 
* In ancient times bo^ou^h and tithing were synonymous. 



ELBERRY COVE. 303 

at the northern extremity of the sands is memorable for. 
the wreck of H. M. S. Venerable, of 74 guns. While 
the squadron under Earl St. Vincent was standing out 
of the bay, the Venerable missed stays in tacking, and 
was instantly driven on the rocks between the steep side 
of the head-land and the hospital. Some portions of 
the copper belonging to her are, it is said, still to be 
seen there at low water. Beyond Goodrington are Broad 
Sands, beyond which the land is broken into a few small 
coves, the first of which is Elberry. It will extend our 
walk too much to visit it by land, and the principal ob- 
ject of attraction can be examined only in a boat. It 
must therefore be made a water-excursion, although we 
have introduced it in this place : — Elberry Cove is a 
small inlet lying open to the east ; on the north it is 
protected by a ledge called from its appearance the 
" Honeycomb Rocks," and in the south angle is the 
Bathing-House of J. B. Y. Buller, Esq. of Lupton. 
At a short distance from the beach, the surface of the 
water presents a curious phenomenon. A fresh-water 
spring, rising of course in some part of the chain of 
hills above the cove, makes it exit from the sandy bot- 
tom, about eight or ten feet below the surface of the sea 
at low water mark. There is a report that a spring 
loses itself in the hills above, but we have not been able 
to prove its accuracy. It ascends perpendicularly with 
considerable force and forms a smooth circle, four or five 
feet in diameter, on the surface of the sea. Two of 
these circles are occasionally seen, in consequence, per- 
haps, of the accumulation of sand ; and their size, depth, 
and distance from each other vary at different times, 
according as they are influenced by the swell or weather. 
They are of course best seen at low tide and when the 
sea is smooth. In April of the present year, we made 
some experiments in conjunction with Mrs. Griffiths, I 
in order to ascertain the character of the water ejected 
by this spring. The result was satisfactory, and proved 
that it was a body of fresh water pouring, out of an 
aperture of large size, and with such strength that the 

X We beg also to express onr acknowledgments for the obliging 
assistance of Miss Amelia Griffiths on this occasion. 



104 



ELBERRY COMPTON CASTLE. 



sand disturbed was forced by its power to the surface. 
The appearances within the circle resembled the effect 
of oil poured on the water, nor were they much affected 
by the ripple, which was playing on the waves around 
it. The temperature could not be accurately determined, 
but it did not seem to be higher than that of the sea. 
The volume of fresh water must be considerable as the 
salt taste of the sea perceptibly diminishes in the neigh- 
bourhood of the spring. This phenomenon will be visited 
by the natural philosopher with much pleasure, and in- 
dependently of the interest excited by it, Elberry Cove 
has the honor of being the habitat of Rhodomenia Teedii. 
We now return to Goodrington, and crossing the cliffs 
soon reach the creek called " Paignton Pier," from the 
remains of an old pier which formerly existed there. A 
short distance further we pass the station of the Coast 
Guard Service, and then enter on the extensive sands of 
Paignton. The first object that meets the eye is Torbay 
House, the property and occasional residence of Col. 
Seale, of Dartmouth. It is a large building, command- 
ing a wide extent of scenery. At the extremity of the 
sands a short lane brings us into the public road, which 
will conduct us to Torquay, by Livermead and Tor Abbey. 



Commit (Cattle. 



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There are many ways of proceeding to Compton 
Castle, but we select that which is most known and 
frequented. Alter passing through Cockington by one 



COMPTON CASTLE. 105 

of the routes already mentioned in our description of 
that place, we enter on the road leading to " Five 
Lanes," a disused turnpike near the village of Marldon. 
One of the lanes diverging from this point conducts us 
direct to the building. 

It is remarkable that so little is known about this 
ancient structure. It is by far the most interesting for- 
tified-mansion in the west of England, although we really 
know nothing more respecting it than the possessors' 
names. We have indeed little besides some scanty 
information relative to the manorial lords, — but we trust 
that some able person will, ere long, consult the public 
records, and throw more light on its history. | A part 
of the Mansion has been modernized and is now occu- 
pied. The north front with its embattled tower and 
ancient gateway, and the broken windows of the Chapel 
adjoiniug must engage the * attention of every visitor; 
and the dilapidated walls look veKerably grand in the 
sombre garb of ivy which entwines them. In the floor 
of the room over the gateway is an oblong opening of 
some size, used probably for concealing plate and other 
treasures. There is also a subterranean passage for a 
short way pointing to Berry Pomeroy. A local tradi- 
tion mentions, we believe, that this communicated with 
Aptor in the same parish. 

The brief history of the manor of Compton is as fol- 
lows : — At the time of Domesday Survey it was held by 
Stephen under Juhel de Totnais ; its ancient name was 
Contune. Osolf possessed it in the reign of Edward the 
Confessor ; and in the time of Henry II. it was in the 
hands of Maurice de Pola. It was long the property 
and residence of this respectable family — the ancestors 
of the celebrated antiquary Sir William Pole. It was 
not unusual at that period for families of opulence and 
distinction to confer their names on the places with 
which they were connected ; hence Compton was desig- 

X It was, some time ago, the intention of the Rev. R. II. 
Froude, the Archdeacon of Totncs, to have instituted this in- 
quiry, but circumstances occurred to prevent it. We regret 
this the more as no one is more qualified for the task, and the 
worl.l would have been favoured with the researches of a sound 
and accomplished antiquary. 



1C6 COMPTON CASTLE — STANTOR AND MARLDON 

nated Compton Pole for a considerable time. Lady 
Alice de Pola gave the manor to the Comptons, in whose 
possession it remained for seven descents ; a co-heiress 
of the Comptons, by marriage with the Gilberts, brought 
it, in the reign of Edward II. into the family of Sir Hum- 
phrey Gilbert the navigator and mathematician, to whom 
we are indebted for the establishment of a British colony 
at Newfoundland. It continued until a late period in 
the hands of the Gilberts, but on the dispersion and re- 
ducement of this once-flourishing family it passed by 
purchase to the Templers. The Gilberts continued to 
reside in the neighbourhood, and at Totnes, &c. and, 
although much reduced in circumstances, are not yet 
extinct. About 1808, the estate was sold in parcels, 
and the mansion and farm purchased by Mr. John 
Bishop, by whom it has since been sold to Francis Gar- 
ratt, Esq. of Ellacombe, the present worthy proprietor. 
Compton Castle, despite our ignorance|iespecting it, 
will at all times be highly interesting to the antiquary. 
He will investigate it with profit — although his re- 
searches may be unrelieved by the light of history ; and 
will derive much pleasure from an acquaintance with 
this venerable and curious mansion. 
• Stantor in this parish, was the ancient seat of the 
Carys, it is now occupied as a Farm-House, and retains 
few other memorials than the name to bespeak its former 
consequence. 

The straggling village of Marldon winds around the 
bottom of the hills which rise abruptly above it ; on an 
elevated spot about the centre of the village stands the 
Church, which was erected, according to tradition, by 
one of the Gilberts of Compton Castle. Mr. Oliver 
considers it the work of the fifteenth century ; it is a 
handsome building, consisting of a nave connected with 
the south aisle by seven arches, and with the north aisle 
by five arches, and having a tower about ninety feet 
high. The stone screen has been preservedf The 
fabric is dedicated to St. John the Baptist, and is an ap- 
pendant to Paignton. The arms of Gilbert were em- 
blazoned in many of the windows. 

f Ecclesiastical Antiquities. 



KENT'S CAVERN. 107 

If the tourist is not afraid of losing his way, he may 
return by the road leading along the back of Cockington, 
which will bring him to Shiphay, the residence of the 
Rev. W. Kitson. This part of the district abounds with 
lanes and cross roads in all directions ; and as we can 
afford the reader little pleasure in our description of this 
ramble, we beg to observe that no part of Devon offers a 
better illustration of Mr. Marriott's well-known lines on 
the mysteries of the Devonshire Lane. 

SUnt'4 Catern. 
•We reserve this remarkable production of nature for a 
distinct excursion, because considerable time is re- 
quired to investigate it, and it is necessary to be pro- 
vided with proper dresses, lights and a guide.f Kent's 
Cavern is situated in the transition limestone, about the 
distance of a mile from Torquay, and at the opening of 
the vale of Ilsam. A lane near the turnpike on the 
Babbicombe road brings us into the shady bottom, on 
the right side of which this ridge of limestone rises. A 
few rude steps enable us to ascend the wall, beyond 
which a narrow and intricate pathway conducts us 
through the copse to the entrance of the cave. The 
approach is inconvenient and discreditable, but we hope 
that this hint will be of sufficient avail to remove so great 
a reproach to the public spirit of Torquay. The 
scenery in the neighbourhood of the Cavern — the still- 
ness and solitude that reign around it— added to its 
apparent seclusion from the haunts of man, give rise to 
feelings of unusual interest. 

turn sylvis scena coruscis 

Desuper, horrentique atrum nemus imminet umbraV 
Fronte sub adversa scopulis pendentibus ANTRUM : 
Intus aquae dulces, vivoque sedilia saxo j 
Nympharum domus. 

Kent's Cavern however has not been favoured with 
the Nymphs like the cave of the Poet, but it has become 
celebrated as the quondam resort of animals whose 

f The persons appointed Guides to the Cavern are J. Heggertty, 
mineralist, on the quay, and Geo. Fearse, at Tor ; to whom the 
keys are entrusted. No one is allowed to dig without permission 
from Sir L. V. Falk. 



108 rent's cavern. 

bowlings shook the forests of the primeval world,— ^and 
whose relics are still preserved as types of an epoch which 
is enshrouded in a veil of solemn mystery, relieved only 
by the sublime and pathetic narrative of the inspired his- 
torian. We are here moving in the sepulchre of created 
beings, and every bone tells us of those awful periods, 
which — despite the theories that have made a mockery 
of the most sublime conception of human intellect, — 
the eye of speculative sciolists is too feeble to fathom ! 
** Ln exhuming from their earthy beds or spar-be- 
spangled vaults" says Dr. Ure,* " the relics of that 
primaeval world, we seem to evoke spirits of darkness, 
crime and perdition ; we feel transported along with 
them to the judgment seat of the Eternal, and hear 
the voice of many waters coming to execute the sen- 
tence of just condemnation on an earth ' corrupt and 
filled with violence.' The powers of prophecy over- 
shadow us. The bony fossil starts to life and conjures 
us in mysterious mutterings to flee from the wrath to 
come. How solemn, to walk through this valley of 
death ! — Methinks the very stones cry out " The Lord 
reigneth ; righteousness and judgment are the habitation 
of His Throne!" 

Kent's Cavern is thought to be more than 600 feet in 
length ; the width and height vary in different parts, and 
the whole den is full of lateral intricacies. At the 
furthest end a still sheet of water spreads out before us. 
Beneath the stalagmitic floor have been obtained, be- 
sides the fossil pachydermata, bones of the bear, tiger, 
hyaena, wolf, ox, deer, rabbit and rat, &c. &c. The 
teeth of the fossil bear are larger by one-fourth than 
those of the living species, and the hyaena had evident 
advantages, in point of power, over the existing race. 
The teeth have been found in an admirable state of per- 
fection, illustrating the different processes of dentition 
from infancy to old age. 

The floor of the cave was first broken in 1824, by 
Thos. Northmore, Esq. of Exeter ; — a gentleman not 
more known for his valuable contributions to the anti- 
quarian researches of this county, than respected for his 
* New system of Geology. 



Kent's cavern. 109 

advancement of science. To him, therefore, as the 
first discoverer of the organic treasuresof Kent's Cavern, 
the civic wreath is due, and it has seldom been more 
richly earned by individual energy. It is remarkable 
that Dr. Bucklaud, with all his perseverance, should 
have twice or thrice visited the cave previously to Mr* 
Northmore, and cursorily mentioned it in*' his Reliquiae 
Diluvianae," and yet never penetrated the stalagmitic 
incrustation. But sic vivitur. Soon after the success 
of Mr. Northmore, many scientific individuals availed 
themselves of the opportunity afforded them ; and it 
would be unjust were we to omit to notice the researches 
of a gentleman whose name has been already mentioned 
in this work, and whose indefatigable exertions are en- 
titled to the highest praise : — The labours of the Rev. 
J. M' Enery have enabled him to form a cabinet of 
great value, and to enrich with the fossil treasures of 
Torquay the institutions of Plymouth, Bristol and other 
provincial towns, and the splendid Museum of the Geo- 
logical Society ; — and of his zeal in the cause these will 
remain lasting monuments. 

But while hundreds have engaged in these investiga- 
tions, it is curious that few Geological works have con- 
descended to notice the Torquay cave, although much 
space has been given to others, both Foreign and British, 
of far inferior interest. In order, therefore, to present 
the public with an original and detailed account of the 
early discoveries in the cavern and of the circumstances 
which led to them, — we have great pleasure in introdu- 
cing two interesting letters on the subject with which we 
have been favoured by Thos. Northmore, Esq. F.S.A. the 
spirit and novelty of whose views cannot fail to be in- 
teresting to the man of science. We cannot, however, 
allow this opportunity to pass by without expressing how 
largely we are indebted to Mr. N. in the composition of 
this volume, and while there is no part of the book which 
has not profited by his advice, there are many which 
owe themselves to his assistance. We now beg to call 
the readers attention to Mr. Northmore's Letters. 



110 rent's cavern. 

To Octavian Blewitt, Esq. 
Editor of the Panorama of Torquay. 

Sir, — In compliance with your request that I would 
draw up for your publication some account of the origin of 
my discoveries in the caverns of the transition or secondary 
limestone, in the vicinity of Torquay, I now trans- 
mit to you the following particulars, which I do the 
more willingly, because the second volume of Professor 
Buckland's work, entitled Rei.iqulx Diluvian^e, has 
not yet made its appearance, although promised to the 
public so long ago as the year 1825. The Rev. Mr. 
Mac Enery had also circulated a prospectus, about five 
years since, of a work then "shortly to be published in 
mie volume quarto ," entitled " Cavern Researches, or 
discoveries of organic remains, and of Druidical and 
Roman Reliques, in the caves of Kenfs Hole, Anstis* 
Cove, Chudleigh and Berryhead ; illustrated with plates, 
etc. including views, sections and ground plans ." I re- 
gret much that these long-promised works have not yet 
made their appearance. For the delay of the Oxonian 
Professor I have heard no reason publickly assigned ; 
but Mr. Mac Enery has complained, and justly, of " the 
limited circulation of works of this nature being by no 
means equal to the expenses" ; and therefore he has 
been " obliged to solicit the support of those who may 
feel an interest in the result of his researches." Hence 
it is highly probable that his work has been postponed, 
I hope not suppressed, for want of such support ; and I 
repeat that 1 deeply regret both these circumstances, 
and that as well for private as publick reasons. For many 
years I have been employed in collecting materials for a. 
more perfect Theory of the Deluge ; but the work so 
grows upon my hands, and the science of Geology is so 
rapidly increasing, and pervades so many other sciences, 
that I know not either when, or how, I shall be able to 
complete it ; and as it is my misfortune to differ both 
from the Oxonian Professor, and" the great teacher" 
Cuvier, and several of the Scotch and German Geologists, 
upon their Diluvian and Antediluvian theories, and parti- 
ularly upon their ideas of the primitive '• non-existence 



rent's cavern. Ill 

of organic beings" of the " late formation of man " and 
what is termed the " order, or suceession in the creation" of 
animals, etc. I had a great desire to peruse, and to profit 
by the Professor's new work, before I put a finishing" 
hand to my own lucubrations : I would fain still indulge 
the hope of its appearance, though I can obtain no satis- 
factory reason for the procrastination.* 

1 now proceed to the main object of this communica- 
tion which is drawn up from some hasty memorandums, 
and, I am sorry to add, very imperfect observations 
made at the time ; reserving a more detailed account, if 
necessary, for the preface to my own work. 

In the month of September, 1824, 1 visited, with my 
family, your delightful, though now too crowded watering 
place, Torquay, without having the remotestidea of ma- 
king any excavations in its caverns for the purpose of dis- 
covering their hidden treasures of organic remains, but 
with the full and avowed design of examining Kent's 
Holeiov a very different object; viz. to ascertain whe^- 

* See Buekland's Inaugural lecture, p.p. 6. 21 — etc. 

" The pretended scale of life, (says Griffith on the Animal King- 
dom) founded on the erroneous application of some partial re- 
marks on the immensity of organized nature, has proved essen- 
tially detrimental to the progress of natural history in modern i 
times." Pr. v. 

This is true ; the idea is unsubstantial, and not founded on fact ; 
it seems to originate from the difficulty of accounting for the 
origin of things, and a certain reluctance in parting with the 
reasoning faculty. 

Within a few weeks after I had written the text; the lamentable 
intelligence arrived of the death of that greatest Naturalist — 
Baron Cuvier, — Science has lost in him her favoured Son — of 
whom it may be truly said, as Cicero declared of his friend 
Archias — that though he died venerable in years and wisdom 
tamen propter exeellentem artem ac venustatem videbatur omninu 
mori 7ion debuisse. — Death should have spared him for some time 
longer. 

Differing as I do from his " Theory of the Earth" and believ- 
ing it to be founded on erroneous bases, yet no man living is 
more ready than I am to express my deep regret for the loss 
of that intellect, from which mankind has reaped so much ad- 
vantage, and by which the present age has been advanced a 
century. It had been my intention to have addressed the pre- 
face of my own Geological work to him, and reasoned with 
him upon his Theory. But Alas! Death , is all -potent, and 
Nescia mens hominum fati. 



112 



KENT8 CAVERN 



ther it were, or were not a Mithratic Cavern ; for the 
Druidical Priesthood, like their Egyptian, Chaldsean, 
and Brahmiuical brethren, worshipped in such ca- 
vernous recesses, (whether natural, or artificial,) the 
Solar God, under a variety of names — such as Mnidhr, 
or Mithras, Bel, Belinus, Beluerus, Belatucader, the 
Tyrian Hercules, and Ogrnius, Cocideus, etc.* while 
the Eastern titles of that deity were, more generally, 
those of Osiris, Orus, Thoth, Budha, Creeshna, Maha- 
dcva, or Seeva, and more than a hundred others. In 
several of these deep and gloomy caverns, or temples, 
(which mystically represented the Dilavian abyss) and 
particularly in those of Elephanta, and Ellora, in Hin- 
dostan, the emblems of the Deus Genitor yet remain ; 
emblems which, to modern delicacy, and modern manners, 
must be justly considered in the highest degree obscene ; 
yet by no means so considered in the ideas either of our 
simple, plain-speaking, and plain-meaning British an-- 
cestors, or in those of the Ancients generally, whether 
of Europe or Asia. None however of these indelicate 
objects have been suffered to exist in any of the Druidi- 
cal temples of the British Empire that I know of, with 
one solitary exception ; and that, I suppose, from its 
having been but little known, and remote from general 
observation. The indelicate appellatives however do 
occasionally exist of various British Solar temples ; as 
for instance, the Devil's cave at Castleton, in the Peak 
of Derbyshire % where the Mithratic, or Dionysiack 
Mysteries were evidently celebrated. This grand and 
majestic Cavern of Castleton is even recorded in the 
most ancient, and earliest writings of the Indian Brah- 
mins ; for the connection between Asia and Europe 
through the medium of the Arkite priesthood is estab- 
lished. 

In these gloomy temples the Catechumens were initi- 
ated, and " purged of their sins ;" Here they saw, in 
representation, "the torments of the damned, and the 
joys of the Blessed" Such were the Eleusinian orgies, 
and many were the scenes of peril and horrour through 

* Archaeol : xi. 65. 70. xiii. 402. Stukeley, Iter Cur : 102-3. 



KENT*S CAVERN. lltf 

which the Epoptse passed. || One of the most usual modes 
of Purification, or Regeneration of the Aspirants was by 
creeping through a hole, or orifice, or passage in the 
rocks ; or by passing an arm, or leg, or portion of the 
body through it, if of small dimension ; or by going 
through a door, or gateway ; but this could not be done 
by the Aspirant, without the aid and approbation of the 
Priest, the door of itself "violently opposing" the wicked 
and impure, and "denying them admission" to the sacred 
" fountain of pellucid water." 

It was partly then with this view of investigation 
that I went to Torquay, A. D. 1824, and having, 
by mere accident, mentioned this my intention to my 
brother-in-law Capt. Richard Welby, (there resident) 
who had the beautiful work of Belzoni, upon the Py- 
ramids of Egypt, lying upon his table, he kindly 
offered it to my perusal, as thinking it might be of 
service to me in my Mithratic pursuits, — as in truth 
it really was ; for the fact is that the Pyramids of Egypt, 
(as was the Tower of Babel) were built for the same 
object and mystery ; the water of the sacred Nile was 
brought into them and used for the same purpose of bap- 
tismal regeneration, as the natural " pellucid water," of 
Castleton Cave, and Kent's Hole ; and the rock-basons, 
and stone-bowls of the Nymphs, and Druids ; and the 
tanks and reservoirs of the Hindu Pagodas were desig- 
nated to a similar end. Fortunately for me, Mr. Welby 
had at the same time Mr. Professor Buckland's Reliquiae 
Diluviance lying before him, which, he observed, just * 
mentioned Kent's Hole ; and this work also he handed 
for my perusal. I relate * Sir, these circumstances to 
you, in order to show how much discoveries depend 
upon mere accident. At that period I had never studied 
Geology, and I am ashamed to add, had scarcely ever 
heard of the name of Buckland ; My scientific pursuits 
(exclusive of Philology) had been confined chiefly to 
Antiquities, the study of which I had commenced under 
my excellent Tutor, Dr. Bennet, the late Bishop of 

|| Compare Wilford's Extracts from the Puranas ; in the 
Asiatic Researches, vol. vi. 502, — and chap. x. 389 et seq. Faber's 
Cabiri ii. 408. 419. etc. also ii. 386, 394. etc. 



114 Kent's cavern. 

Cloyne ; and to Chemistry, which I had studied princi- 
pally under Mr. Accum ; and I had so far succeeded in 
this most delightful science, that I was the fortunate 
author of that, since-celehrated, discovery, the conden- 
sation of the gases ; of which discovery Sir Humphrey 
Davy, and Mr. Faraday, and several other chemists 
and natural philosophers, have made so much and fre- 
quent use, though they have not done me the honour of 
once mentioning my name ; with the exception however 
of Dr. Hope of Edinburgh, and a few other men of 
science, who are too enlightened and too liberal to suffer 
the varying creeds of politics to stand in the way of the 
eternal codes of Justice and Philosophy. My experi- 
ments upon the compression of the gases were first pub- 
lished in Nicholson's Chemical Journal for the years 
1805 and 1806. (See volumes xii. xiii. xiv.) My dis- 
coveries of Organic Remains in the Caverns of Devon- 
shire have been treated with the same puerile, jealous, 
and mean feeling ; and thus others rise to fame upon 
my labours. Sie vos non vobis.* 

* This discovery of the condensation of the gases into liquids 
is beginning to be a great favourite, both abroad and at home, 
and the Dutch Society of Science at Haarlem have very judi- 
ciously made it the subject of a Prize Essay, as to what practical 
use these gases compressed into liquids can be applied, &c. and 
they announce their design in the following words — 

" As several substances, which were formerly known only in 
the state of gas, may through pressure, and intense cold, be 
reduced to the solid, or liquid form, which has especially been 
proved by Faraday's experiments,'. &c. See Edin. New Phil. 
Jour. No. xi. p. 150-1. A. 1829. Now Sir, I applaud with as 
much zeal as any man the successful, and beautiful experiments 
of M r. Faraday. He has improved greatly upon my discovery ; 
but I affirm that it is unjust in him, as it was in Sir H. Davy, 
with whom I was once personally acquainted, under all their 
justly acquired celebrity, to blink the name of the first discoverer : 
nor willl suffer such injustice to be passed with impunity. 

The Dutch Society does not seem aware of the great extent 
to which this experiment might be carried j for instance, let the 
highly condensed gases be mixed in various proportions ; and let 
them be thus subjected to the Galvanic, and Electrick influence ; and, 
perhaps I may be thought too sanguine, when Texpress my opinion 
that the experiments may be attended with valuable results : — 
Possibly solid matter (the Crux Geologica) may be one of the 
consequences. I have neither time nor space to add more upon 



rent's cavern. 115 

Upon perusing the Reliquiae Diluvianse, I confess 
that I was not a little surprized at the very slight, and 
cursory manner in which the Professor had mentioned 
Kent's Hole ; not the least idea did he seem to have of 
its concealed treasures : to this perusal however, and to 
this mere accident, am I indebted for my geological infor- 

this very extensive, and very important subject ; it is sufficient 
for me to point out the probable means of obtaining the desired 
end: but I cannot forbear adding an expectation of other im- 
portant results, if to certain of such compressed gases be sub- 
jected the metalloidal bases, — Silicium, Alumium, Potassium, 
Sodium, Calcium, etc. 

In a memoir of Sir H. Davy, which appeared in the Gentle- 
man's Magazine, for July 1829 ; among the articles recorded as 
contributed by him to the Philosophical Transactions, is the follow- 
ing — " On the co7idensation of Muriatic gas into the liquid form." 
The article itself appeared in the Philosophical Transactions for 
the year 1823. p. 164. and was written by Sir H. Davy, Bart. 
President. Now, this was one of the very experiments which I had 
first originated and published i?i the year 1805, no less than 18 
years before the learned President — yet no mention is made 
thereof; while in the same volume p.p. 199 to 205, Mr. Fara- 
day's experiments, and those of others are spoken of with appro- 
bation. The Baronet also had contributed to Nicholson's Journals, 
as well as myself. Here then is an instance of that political 
feeling, which operates too generally, " in order to deprive," 
(as Sir P. Burdett once said of Major Cartwright,) a reformer 
" of his just weight and celebrity." In the last edition of Cuvier's 
Theory of the earth, by Professor Jameson, A.D. 1827, " with 
numerous additions by the author and translator," a list is 
given of the British Caves where fossil bones have been found, 
p. 531-2. The names too of various discoverers are mentioned 
throughout the work, yet (would the reader believe it !) the Caves 
of Torquay are omitted, both by the author and annotator, and 
though in the Edinburgh Phil. Journal by the same learned Pro- 
fessor, notice is more than once taken of teeth and bones dis- 
covered by others in these Devonian Caves, and by some who 
actually were at work with me and had even consulted me, yet 
my name is blinked by the Scotch Professor, and all his corres- 
pondents. A similar omission occurs in Parkinson's last edition 
of his outlines of Oryctology, though published, A. 1830. 

Perhaps the precept of Cicero may be here recorded with some 
benefit. Sin autem temere aliquid alicujus praeteriisse aut non 
satis eleganter secuti videbimur, docti ab aliquo, facile et libenter 
sententiam commutabimus ; non enim parum cognosse, sed in 
parum cognito stulte, et diu perseverasse, turpe est ; propterea 
quod alterum communi hominum infirmitati, alterum singulari 
»uiuscujusque vitio est adtributum. De Invent, L, 11. e. 3 



116 Kent's cavern. 

raation ; for from that hour I took up the science, and 
have continued to study it ever since ; and [ trust that I 
have made therein another discovery ; whether of impor- 
ance, or not, others may judge ; but this I shall reserve 
for my own future work. 

It now occurred to me, that I might, as the saying is, 
kill two birds with one stone, and extract as many or- 
ganic remains from our Devonian limestone caverns, as 
the Professor had done in Kirkdale. With both those ob- 
jects then in view, I hired two assistants (William Ros- 
siter, and John Ferris,) and accompanied by an able 
draughtsman, Mr. Gendall of Exeter, I set out on the 
21st of September, A. D. 1824, with the double object 
of discovering organic remains, and ascertaining the 
existence of a temple of Mithras ; and happy am I to say 
that I was successful in both objects ; in the former pur- 
suit indeed I have been followed by hundreds, in the 
latter by none. 

The baptismal lake of Si pellucid water," the creeping 
path of " stone purification" and if I am not quite mis- 
taken, (for I speak doubtfully) the " mystic gate of 
obstacle'" the M oven mouth /' and possibly one more 
arcane memorial, sufficiently satisfied my mind upon the 
Temple of the extensively worshipped, and thousand- 
named Deity, Belin. But upon this subject no more 
at present, and I proceed to the organic treasures of the 
sacred Arksean Cave. And first ; at that period, A.D. 
1824, there was little obstacle to, or difficulty in re- 
search ; no bars, no locks, no bolts, every one might 
enter the cave, explore if he pleased, and return accord- 
ing to his will, and pleasure ; not that I blame the 
owner, Sir Lawrence Palk, (since thebones have become 
objects of sale) for closing theentrance, and I believe that 
the Baronet never refuses to grant permission to any 
man of science upon due application, but the delays 
arising from other circumstances have been, I hear, the 
cause of complaint and inconvenience. Upon entering, 
then, the Cavern, and being at that time a novice in 
the art of exploring, I began to consider in what part 
it was most likely to find the expected treasures, and 
seeing a small recess (which 1 technically called a Den) 



Kent's cavern. 117 

on the left side, some way in the Cavern, of a size suffi- 
ciently capacious to hold a large tiger, I began to dig- 
therein through the stalagmitic covering, and in less 
than ten minutes I could not forbear exclaiming with 
joy — Here it is ; and I pulled out an old worn-down 
tusk of an Hyaena, and soon afterwards, a Metatarsal bone 
of the Cavern Bear. About 20 or 30 other teeth and 
bones were the result of our labours on that day ; but 
among them, and what I much prized, were two jawn, 
upper and lower, of either the Wolf or the Fox ; these I 
placed, as I thought, safely in my basket, but upon my 
return to my lodgings I found they were gone, and 
though I subsequently offered a reward to the finder, I 
never was able to recover them. Such then were the 
fortunate results of the first day, and my object ivas 
complete ; for in truth my views tend more to Princi- 
ples, than mere matters of fact, and experiment. When 
once one leading discovery, or one great successful ex- 
periment, is made, it is a matter of comparative ease 
and simplicity to follow it up by additions and improve- 
ments ; numerous individuals find time and opportunity 
to make researches, which the original discover has not j' 
and the minds of men are variously constructed, some 
being adapted to originate discoveries, and general laws ; 
others to improve, and illustrate them in detail. The 
Steam Engine affords an appropriate example of the 
one ; and the doctrines of Polarization of light ; of 
electro-magnetism, and crystallography of the other. 
But perfection consists in the combination of both Theory 
and experiment : and science is not half perfect, nay, is 
almost null, unless crowned by Principles and General 
Law. But I repeat that it is ungrateful in the improvers 
of arts and sciences, to smother, to conceal, to keep 
down, and seemingly to forget the original discoverers, 
and inventors, who have in fact given them their 
existence and celebrity. This practice savours of va- 
nity, of littleness of mind, and is not better than sheer 
plagiarism, and it becomes every liberal-minded writer 
and speaker, to hold it up to merited obloquy. 

By this discovery I contributed to establish the ge- 
neral rule of the Limestone Caverns being the retreats, 



118 rent's cavern. 

not of Antediluvial, but of Portdiluvial carnivorous ani- 
mals and their prey ; and such I am persuaded they will 
frequently be found. 

Mr. Gendall made, on this day, some beautiful 
sketches, both of the interior and exterior of the ca- 
vern ; one of which will appear as a vignette to this 
work. 

Before I quit this first Den, or lateral retreat, I should 
mention that Professor Buckland some short time after- 
wards, (for I immediately communicated to him my 
discovery,) continued the search in the same spot, and 
found a British flint knife, and some bones and teeth, if 
I recollect right, of the bear, and rhinoceros ; and not 
far from it Mr. W. C. Trevelyan discovered a beautiful 
tooth of a tiger, and a fine jaw-bone of a bear, and 
Other remains. f 

I now proceeded to take the admeasurement of the 
cavern and its bearings ; and to ascertain its tempera- 
ture, etc ; — and repeating my deep regret at the great 
imperfection, and much omission — (arising partly from 
the intricacies and extent of the cave, or rather series 
of caves and dens, of which I was then not sufficiently 

•f* Having mentioned my loss of the two jaws of the Wolf, it 
may be advisable to inform the future explorer, that these Cavern- 
Treasures have no-.v become real money treasures — and great 
objects of sale. It is my opinion that the value of the bones and 
teeth already discovered by the Ladies and Gentlemen, (particularly 
by Mr. M' EneryJ and others at Torquay, and its visitors, 
would be cheaply estimated at from 500 to 1000 guineas, and Sir 
L. V. Palk may possibly add a few more hundreds, if he would 
follow the plan which I proposed to him. I recommended him also 
to establish a Museum at Torquay — which would be not only a 
great acquisition to science, but an ornament to the place, and an 
honour to himself; and I offered, and now repeat my offer of, 
all that remain of my own researches, (which however are 
very few, for I have given most of them away) as a commence- 
ment of so laudable and useful an undertaking. 

I had forgot to mention that Mr. W. C. Trevelyan discovered 
I believe, some carbonate of magnesia in the limestone of Kent's 
Cavero, and it may be worth while to add, that there do not 
appear any shells in this stratum, though in other strata not far 
off, bivalve shells are found. Mr. Cumberland has suggested to 
me that in one of the Bradley quarries near Newton Bushell, a 
vein of a greenish sand is found enclosing shells and corals, 
auomifie. etc. 



rent's cavern. 119 

apprized, and trusted to residents of Torquay to make 
perfect ; and partly from my short stay in the town,) I 
have only to trust to the reader's liberality to make 
all due allowance for errors and to express my earnest 
hope that a future ground plan, and perfect drawings 
will be published by those more adequate to the task and 
skilled in such undertakings, and resident on the spot. 

There are two entrances to Kent's Hole. The lower 
(now in use) fronts the S.S.E. — its base being about 7§ 
feet, the height about 5£ :■ — The upper fronts the E. and 
is about 8 feet broad, and has now but little elevation. 
This latter is about 46 feet distant from the former, and 
2 or 3 feet higher up ; it continues the same span for 
ten feet inside, and is soon afterwards met by the first 
entrance, which has of course considerably deflected, 
(to the W. S. W.) almost at a right angle. Here is, 
what the people have called, the Boar's Head — being a 
crystallized carbonate of lime on the top of the cave*- 
My admeasurements were made in straight lines, by the 
direction of a small magnetic compass each as far as 
the light of the directing candle was visible — and I 
think the nnmber of such admeasurements was 14. — 
The whole length of the Cavern, including the windings, I 
estimated then at 657 feet. The width and height of the 
cave continually varies, the former from 2 feet 3 inches 
to 71 feet; the latter from that portion of the cavern 
called the oven, where you are obliged to creep , up to 
18 feet. About 180 feet from the entrance is a cavern- 
ous lateral passage above 70 feet in length, containing 
loose bones (some very small) ; beyond this you begin to 
ascend, and 1 would observe that there are several lateral 
dens as you proceed, covered generally, as is the floor 
of the cavern, with stalagmitic incrustation concealing 
mud and animal remains ; when you get through the 
oven, you speedily arrive at the water, not far from which, 
is a cavernous passage 103 feet long, and there is ano- 
ther cut by which you may return. Within the upper 
entrance on the left is also a branch cavern of consider- 
able dimensions, but in this I discovered no bones, it 
lying more elevated. In the water my thermometer stood 
at; 49^ Far,, while the cave temperature was 54 J. At 



120 rent's cavern. 

another time (in October) the external temperature was 
63°, internal 65°, water 51°. 

The organic remains discovered in this complicated 
cavern are principally those of the Rhinoceros, Hippo- 
potamus, Elephant, Hi/ana, Cavern-bear, Elk. Tiger, 
Ox, (and I believe Buffalo.) Horse, Wolf, Bog, Deer, 
Sheep, Rabbit, Rat, Mouse, and some others. The 
marl or clay under the stalagmite is mostly of a reddish 
colour, and some worn pebbles, or poples, as they are 
called, appear within it; nor must I forget the copro- 
lite of the Hyaenas who evidently dragged in their prey 
into this den, and that possibly from a considerable dis- 
tance ; and I am only surprised that no human bones 
have been here found, (as in" some of the caves on the 
continent,) since human sacrifices were not unknown to 
the Druids, and Dartmoor with a portion of its vicinity 
was the very seat and centre of that Priesthood. In that 
Granite region are bow existing the remains of a British 
town, called Grimspound, under Hamel-down, which 
I have both visited and elucidated ; and with the help of 
the Rev. Mr. Mason, have rebuilt (excepting the roof) 
one of the old British towns ; the foundations of this 
town, (inclosed by a stone circle) are numerous. The 
town is situated not far from one of the Solar Tors, and 
from a very ancient British Gymnasium called Berry 
Pound. 

It is true that human bones, and I hear a skeleton, 
with pottery, charcoal, and ashes, etc. have been disco- 
vered by the Rev. H. F. Lyte, in the Ash Hole a large 
Cavern on the opposite side of the bay, under the three- 
gun battery on Berry head, but those are probably the re- 
mains of Danish and Roman soldiers there buried from 
their neighbouring camps. Speaking r)f this Ash-Hole 
which I visited on the 22d of September, 1824, it is 
worth while to add, that it is of extensive dimensions, 
being 103 feet 10 inches long ; 28 feet 6 inches wide ; 
and 23 feet high, and its * 'oven mouth" is really curious, 
being in the middle of a high cliff above the sea ; and 
having a rising mound directly in its front, higher than 
the elevation of the arch, it is completely concealed from 
view, and you descend of course into it. It was lonjj 



KENT S CAVERN 



121 



before I could find it out. It is 16 feet 10 inches wide, 
f> feet 8 inches high, but the real height of the arch can- 
not be ascertained from the quantity of earth fallen in. 
On this sloping earth grow the largest fern leaves I ever 
beheld. In its neighbourhood, are many fissures of the 
lime rock, particularly one just above the Hospital, 
which I showed to Professor Buckland, and which ])r. 
Greville descended. This Ash-hole has some crystalliza- 
tion, but it would be desirable on many accounts that 
the rubbish and mud, (if any) should be perforated to 
the bottom, both of this and Kent's hole, and the Pixies' 
cavern. Mr. Lyte, I hear, has penetrated to the extent 
of 70 feet in depth of the Ash-hole without reaching the 
bottom, the shaft passing only through rubbish and fallen 
stones- 

The tradition of subterranean cavities extending from 
this cave to Brixham in one direction, and to Kingswear 
in another, cannot at present be substantiated, but though 
I am no believer (generally) in such traditions, yet from 
the hollow, fissured and convulsed state of the whole 
region round, it is not impossible that some communi- 
cation from below may be discovered with other hollows, 
or with the contiguous sea. In one of the fissures of 
the Berry it is said that a bone of a large animal has 
been discovered, and I attribute all those chasms, and 
fissures to that DiJuvian, igni-aqueous period of which 
Ovid makes mention. 

Corripitur flammis ut qussque altissima tellus, 
Fissaque agit rimas. 

But not to wander too far from the Torquay Cave which 
is surrounded by as many fractures and disturbances as 
the Berry, (and both from the same Diluvian and Vol- 
canic origin) I proceed now to other Reliques disco- 
vered therein, viz. of human art and manufacture : for 
the Britons, like most of the other nations of the earth , 
in a less civilized state, used Caverns and subterranean 
hollows, (both natural and artificial, ) for their habita- 
tions and granaries and temples. In the very middle of 
the stalagmite, (about from 7 to 9 inches thick) 

M 



122 rent's cavern* 

I found apiece of wood (apparently oak) turned up 
partly on one edge by art, about 6 inches long-, and 2f 
broad ; and about § an inch thick, it seemed to me at 
first to resemble the sole of a British shoe, or sandal ; but 
it may possibly have been the flat Thole of an ancient 
boat or barge, which is so shaped as to fit the gunnel ; 
btut whatever it be, some leather or skin seems to have 
been attached to it, from the black animal matter re- 
maining in the same aperture or hollow of the stalag- 
mite. Several British flint knives were also discovered, 
one sticking partly in the mud, and part in the stalag- 
mite. I found also some charcoal lying in the mud, 
but close under and almost in contact with the incrus- 
tation ; — nor must I forget one circumstance which ap- 
peared to me important, viz. that in some few instances 
this stalagmitic covering was double, with mud, and I be- 
lieve, bones between each layer ; a fact which alone 
(if wanted) would set at rest the phantasy of the mud 
being Dilnvian, but the absence of all marine remains 
is enough of itself, independent of other phenomena 
which will be mentioned hereafter. I had the honour 
of being accompanied in some of my researches by va- 
rious scientific gentlemen and others. Among whom I 
beg to mention the names of my relative Dr. Greville, 
(the Botanist) Capt. now Admiral Sartorius, Mr. 
Scudamore, Mr. Barker, the Rev. Mr. M'Enery, Mr. 
Henderson, Dr. Matthews, the Rev. Mr. Daniel, and 
last though not least, the celebrated Professor of Ox- 
ford, who kindly favoured me not only with his useful 
instructions how to proceed, but what carries more 
weight than precept,withhis zealous and valuable example. 
I rejoiced also in witnessing the zeal, and highly laud- 
able eagerness for knowledge in several of the ladies of 
Torquay, and its vicinity, many of whom are in posses- 
sion of some fine Reliquesfrom this Cavern; among others, 
Mrs. Edward Cary. Torquay seems highly favoured in 
this respect, and particularly by the honour it receives 
from the residence therein of one of the most accom- 
plished Botanists of South Britain ; one to whom the 
science stands indebted for her discoveries, and in grati- 



KENT'S CAVERtf. 123 

tude has enrolled in her lasting records the appellative 
of Griffithsia.* 

It must be evident to the reflecting mind that the 
Britons came to inhabit the cave very soon after the 
beasts had left it, or otherwise had perished, and this 
destruction of the beasts of Prey originated from two 
causes ; one from the change of climate, viz. from 
African heat to British cold ; which took place imme- 
diately upon the "sudden, violent, and transient" deluge ; 
and which climate, the tigers, hippopotami, rhinoceroses* 
etc. were not by nature well fitted to bear ; and secondly 
from their having been more or less killed off by man — and 
that gradually ; — and I press strongly upon this point, 
for it is evident that some of the beasts lived in the cave 
for several generations, being born and bred, and some 
probably having died there, and it is equally evident 
that animals even of the hotter climes are enabled to en- 
dure for a considerable period a colder climate, such for 
instance as the Hysena and the tiger. § 

Many species of these cavern animals remained for 
ages existent in Britain, though now extinct, such as the 
bear, wolf, deer, elk, beaver, bison, buffalo, etc. I lay 
no present stress upon the co-existent animals now 
thriving — such as the horse, dog, ox, rab hit, rat, etc. etc, 
the progress of which are found conjoined with the hot 
climated race, because J reserve for a future discussion 

[* We beg to add to these excellent remarks of Mr. Northtnore, 
the following passage from Mr. Loudon's Encyclopaedia ot Plants j 
" Griffithsia, named after Mrs. Griffiths, of Devonshire, whose 
many discoveries in marine vegetation truly entitle her to this 
distinction : the highest which one botanist can bestow upon. 
another." O. B.] 

§ It is a valuable fact, that four of the animals whose bones 
are here discovered, and are thus diffused in the northern hemis- 
phere, exist at present only in tropical climates, chiefly south of 
the Equator ; and " the only country in which the elephant, 
rhinoceros, hippopotamus, and hyaena are now associated, is Sou- 
thern Africa," see Reliq. Diluv. p. 44. 

It is my opinion, and I trust that I shall be enabled to offer 
some proofs thereof, that previous to the deluge there was a com- 
munication between the European continent and Africa ; at pre- 
sent I shall only state that the straits of Gibraltar were bursted 
at the same period as the straits of Dover. 



124 rent's cavern. 

this grand geological, and most valuable fact, which 
the universal-Diluvian Theorists make every possible 
effort to conceal, — which thwarts all their Phantasies, 
forces them to resort not to one miracle, but to multi- 
tudes, forgetting- the necdeus intersit, and has caused the 
profoundest philosopher of the age to plunge into hesi- 
tation, and I had almost said into inconsistency and 
feebleness of reasoning; — I reserve then this examina- 
tion for another time, when I trust I shall prove to the 
satisfaction of every unprejudiced geologist, that not 
only the last deluge but that each preceding one was 
partial not universal ; and ought more justly to be called 
not Deluge, (which leads the mind astray from one of 
the main facts, and the great cause) but an igni-aqaeous 
convulsion, which alone can account for all the various 
phenomena that have so long tormented Geology. 

The proofs which I have of this hypothesis are some 
of them new, and I confidently trust will be convincing. 
At least they will lead to discussion, and discussion leads 
to truth. Every philosopher should court inquiry, and 
Cicero justly says — ' Tantum abest ut scribi contra 
lios nolimus, ut id etiam maxime optemus.' So far from 
being unwilling to hear the contrary opinions of others, 
it is our most ardent wish to hear them. Refellere sine 
pertinacia, refelli sine iracundia parati sum us. Tusc. 
Disp. Lib. II. 2. 

1 am surprized to hear it made a question by some na- 
turalists whether the bear and horse were indigenous 
in Britain. The latter is at once decided by the teeth 
and vertebrae discovered in the Torquay caves ; and the 
Caledonian bear (I cannot speak of the Spelseus) is 
celebrated by the Roman Poet — 

Nuda Caledonia sic pectora prcebuit urso — 

Martial sp. v/i. 
and the Deiphin note adds — "Caledonia was a region of 
Britain, where are the thickest forests, and from thence 
fierce bearswere sent to Rome." Ancient Britain abounded 
mfoi'ests; not one of its seven provinces, from the Jugum 
Ocrinum (Dartmoor) to the Silva Caledonia, was freed 
from them : one of the most famous was the Anderida 
Silva (Sussex) ; nor are its subterranean or sub-marine 



rent's cavern. 125 

forests unknown. Here then was plenty of space for 
wild animals, and Avell may the ancient Welsh Triad 
assert, that " before (and after) theCymry, Britain was 
inhabited by bears, wolves, beavers, and owen with large 
protuberances" ;* but I cannot consent to Mr. Sharon Tur- 
ner's position that the human race did not exist in Britain 
befure the arrival of the Cymry, or Cimmerians from 
the east, for the Iberi were its original inhabitants, 
even previous to the separation, or divulsion of the 
Island from the Continent; and these Iberi I take to have 
been the remnant of the much litigated Hyper-boreans — 
(or Hippa-ob-ori) so called from their worship of the 
Arlcite solar serpent. One of the ancient names of Bri- 
tain was undoubtedly as the Triads assert, Fel Ynys, 
which in a secondary sense is properly translated, ii the 
Island of Honey" — but in its true, and primary and most 
ancient sense means the Island of the Sun, but of these 
memorials of deep antiquity, more hereafter. That the 
ancient (painted, if not tattooed) Britons dwelt in caves 
and Argels (coverts) and had subterranean granaries and 
oracles underground, the reader may see in Turner, as 
also for their gloomy rites and human victims. f The 
Saxons also offered human sacrifices to their Gods. For 
the wild race of oxen in Scotland ; the Bisons, and Uri t 
or Aurochs, etc. see Encycl. Brit. Art. Bos.\\ 

* See Sharon Turners's Anglo-Saxons vol. 1. p. 4, 15. 

There is no doubt that Dartmoor was once covered with wood ; 
the remains of oak, birch, and I believe, pine have been found 
from two to eight feet beneath the soil ; and bears, wolves, botrs, 
wild bulls, and small horses, etc. seem to have occupied it. See 
the uotes on Carrington's Dartmoor, p. 163-4. 

+ Vol. 1. p. 6-7. 18-19. S^e also Tacitus de mor. Germ : and 
the note of Aikin p. 28-9. 

j| Turner 11. 18. Lucan 1. 444. 

The following passage of Farkinson (Organic remains 333) is 
directly opposed to the fact, as far as regards our Devonian 
Caverns ; speaking of "fossil bones in caverns" he says — " Here 
the bones are almost all of carnivorous animals, either lying 
loosely at the bottom of caverns covered with animal earth, or 
encased in stalagmitic concretions." I need not say that the 
bones and teeth of other animals abound in these caverns, as of 
the horse, ox, deer, sheep, rabbit, nor do the bones (generally) 
lie at the bottom but mostly near the surface of the mud. 



126 Kent's cavern. 

It occurred to me upon examining the two entrances 
into Kent's Hole, that the upper one had been formerly 
that in common use, and I ascertained this to be the case 
by clearing- away the earth and rubbish from its outside. 
Herein for the space of four feet in depth T found 
nothing but old knives, nails, limpets, and other shells, 
the ends of wax candles, corks, etc. by which, and the 
earth and boards, this entrance is now completely closed, 
I presume, in part, as a safeguard against stray cattle; 
but this arch, formed by nature, is beautiful, and almost 
Roman, and when cleared of the rubbish is above 5 feet 
in height, and near 8 feet in span — I could fancy that 
Ovid had it in view when he thus wrote, — 
Simulaverat artem 
Xngenio Natura suo. 

"Before I quit this subject it will be necessary to add a 
few words of the Chudleigh Cave, which in a Geological 
view has some peculiarities. Into this cavern I accom- 
panied Dr. Buckland on the 12th of April, 1825, but 
the Professor had been there before, and had already ex- 
cavated the mud to the depth of 4 feet. The cave is 
called the Pixies' Hole from a very ancient British word, 
signifying Fairies. See Grose's Provincial Glossary. 
The original word is Celtic — Pwci, (a goblin) Pocan, 
Irish ; and hence Shakspear has his celebrated Puck, or 
Robin Good Fellow, st that frights the maidens" 
" skims milk" etc. These little half visible, half in- 
visible " good people" and " good neighbours" are very 
common in Ireland and are still called Phookas, and are 
the remnants of the old Solar and Helio-Arkite super- 
stition ; "many rocky pits, and caverns are there called 
Poula Phooka" the very Pixies Hole of Devonshire. 
See the Fairy Legends of Ireland. Devonshire is indeed 
half -Celtic. The very name of Ugbrook, where the Pixies' 
Hole is, and which gives the name to Lord Clifford's 
beautiful seat, is perhaps derived from this Hole, which 
in Celtic is Og ; as Chudleigh itself is supposed, by 
Polwhele, to be derived from Cud, or Cicd, a cavity or 
shelter. This cavern w 7 as peculiarly the residence of a 
British family, and Dr. Buckland in his investigation 
discovered what appeared to me, (both from its round, or 



rent's cavern. 127 

rather oval saucer-like form, and from its contents,) a 
British kitchen. Charcoal, pottery, flint knives, etc. re- 
warded his research, but I deeply lament that the Pro- 
fessor of Geology should have destroyed this relick so 
valuable to the admirers of antiquity; a small portion 
now only remaining. It was scooped out by the Britons 
through the stalagmite into the mud and bones ; and so 
well rammed or hardened at the bottom that I might 
almost call the flooring a Devonian lime-ash. The mud 
in one portion of this cave is of great depth, (in another 
portion there is none at all) but the bones lie near its 
surface, from about 1 to 2 feet deep ; all below seems free 
from bones ; the cave however has not been sufficiently 
searched. Miss Jones found in this cavern a beautiful 
tooth of a bear. I sounded 6 or 8 feet of this mud with- 
out finding any bottom, but I discovered a thin black 
layer or regular stratum of what I take to be the black 
owyd of manganese lying about 3 or 4 feet below the 
surface, and continuing, as far as I could judge, nearly 
through the whole length of the cavern. (I would ob- 
serve en passant that I found layers of manganese, also, 
in the green-sand formation to the east of Lyme Regis.) 
Here then, I think I may stop for the present, and as 
general results and deductions from facts are all in all 
I flatter myself that I am warranted in drawing the fol- 
lowing general conclusions : — 

1st. That the mud in these caves is not oceanic, or 
Diluvial ; there being no marine relicts, or exuviae 
found therein, nor is there mud in every portion of all 
these caverns. 

2. That the same mud has penetrated into these 
caves from torrents of rain either through the common 
entrances or through crevices, and other apertures ; and 
some brought in with the beasts, and their dragged prey. 

3. That this mud (in part) preceded the entry of 
the beasts, because the bones lie (generally) on or to- 
wards its surface, and the long thin layer of manganese 
in the Pixies' Hole proves a considerable duration of time, 

4. That the country was the habitation of beasts of 
prey (of hotter climates) and at the same time of other 
animals carnivorous and herbivorous, whose species 
endure to the present hour. 



128 rent's cavern. 

5. That after the destruction of the beasts of prey, 
the mud became incrusted with stalactite, and the caves 
became the abode of the Cymry, or Celtic and other 
tribes. 

6. That the hypothesis that these bones, or any of 
them, were washed in by the Diluvian waters is erro- 
neous : the single fact of the length of time, the ages, 
I may say, in which they have accumulated, one above 
another, generation after generation, is sufficient to set 
aside such a vague hypothesis. 

7. That these caves were, at first, probably, dens of 
wild beasts, particularly of the hyaena; The foeces of 
which still remain, as do the gnawed bones of the ani- 
mals which they had devoured. I found one bone with 
a rat's tooth sticking in it. 

8. That the climate of this country, and of Europe 
generally must have been suddenly changed, and the re- 
treat of the hot-blooded animals cut off, which was one of 
the causes of their afterwards perishing gradually. 

9. That this catastrophe must have happened at or 
about the period which separated France and the conti- 
nent from Britain, and that this period was (probably) 
what usually is called the Deluge, i.e. the last igni- 
aqueous catastrophe; which I have historical reasons for 
fixing about 12000 years ago. 

10. That the Deluge could not possibly have been 
simultaneously universal, (as Buckland, Cuvier, and 
others imagine) both from general causes and high Phi- 
losophical principles, as from the double facts of the 
above beasts of prey having endured long subsequent to 
that event, (though previously existent, and cut off ;) and 
above all from the continued existence of the many saved 
animals up to this hour. The relics also of these 
" ancient animals occur in postdiluvian strata. "f With a 

f See Dr. Fleming's essay. Edin. Phil- Journ. 1826, p. 211. et 
seq. — also the Inaugural lecture of Professor Buckland p. 23-4. 

The inaiu cause of this error of Geologists lies in this, that they 
take locality for universality ; — and what is successive or periodi- 
cal, (how long soever the interval) for what is simultaneous. 
Every portion, or nearly every portion of the Glohe has heen 
successively, (or at one time, or other) under water, hut not, hy 
any rational possibility, simultaneously. Amongst the relics 



rent's cavern. 129 

few words upon the probable causes of these phenomena, 
I must conclude this protracted letter — 

The whole region of the south east of Devon appears 
to have been the seat of tremendous volcanic convulsion ; 
upheavings, depressions, rents, chasms, fissures, con- 
tortions, divulsions, dislocations, and almost every other 
phenomenon and effect of subterranean expansive forces, 
are visible throughout ; if I were to select, where the 
objects are general, I should point to Haldon and Black- 
down, and the various fossils. I should point to Buck- 
land's, inappropriately-called vallies of denudation, (say 
rather of disruption, or disjunction ;) and to DelaBeches 
rents and dikes, etc. but the crushed state of the Saurians 
and Crocodiles, and other antediluvian animals in the 
neighbourhood of Lyme-Regis, lying under vast masses 
and strata of rocks ; and the very same state and same 
animals and similar strata on the opposite coast of France 
all together afford such a volume of evidence that I com- 
miserate the prejudice that cannot place confidence in 
the theory. ( When I made search for coal in this district 
where I now write, 1 mile west of Exeter, I found the 
whole argillaceous strata to the depth of 200 feet, much 
dislocated and disjointed, much sulphuret of Iron, and 
indurated nodules ; the waters too are abundant in sul- 
phuretted hydrogen, carbonate of Iron, and muriate and 
sulphate of soda. ) The abrupt and precipitous state of the 
cliffs on the Devonian coast ; the bursted glens, and 
vallies ( not excavated by water how violent and 
transient soever, but by volcanic force ) of the whole 
region from Portland to Ottermouth, and thence to 
Torquay, demonstrate the theory. But the amazing 
number of rents and splittings and caverns in the lime- 
stones of Torbay, on both sides of the water, prove that 
they also have suffered from the same igneous power, 
( Limestone from the expansive power of its carbonic 
acid is peculiarly liable to such effects ; ) and I am of 
opinion that the gulf of Torbay was split open at the 
same igni-aqueous catastrophe. The caverns themselves 
then, are not antediluvian, but diluvian and postdiluvian. 

found in postdiluvial strata, are those of the turtle, elephant, and 
crocodile. 



330 rent's cavern. 

I say postdiluvian, because I have not the smallest doubt 
that the effects of that dreadful convulsion long remained, 
as the effects in volcanic countries still remain for ages 
periodically shaken by Earthquakes ; South America is 
full of such evidence, but I know of no volcanic region 
that establishes the convulsive and dislocating theory 
more decidedly than the Island of Hawaii, where the 
Arkite Goddess Pele still continually rages.* 

* Compare Buckland's Inaugural Lecture p.p. 16-18. and his 
" excavation of vallies, on the coast of Devon which he attributes 
to a violent and transient inundation" p. 96. But when the Pro- 
fessor speaks of the " extremities of our vallies being abruptly 
terminated by the sea, of our hills being abruptly truncated, 
and often over- hanging the beach, or undercliff, with a perpen- 
dicular precipice" p. 97, I wonder the questions never oc- 
curred to him." — How came the sea there? and how came the 
abruptness of the terminations ? The answers to these questions 
would have turned his thoughts to causes much more potent and 
decisive, than inundations, or denudations, particularly after he 
had admitted the correspondence of the coast of Normandy, with 
those of Devon and Dorset (id 101) and that the" English chan- 
nel was nothing but a sub-marine valley" not however " owing 
its origin to diluvian excavation" but to igneous, or volcanic 
disruption which prepared and alone could prepare the way for 
the waters. 

It appears to me morally, and geologically certain, that fire 
equally with water, and contemporaneously , has contributed to 
the disasters of the Deluge. Our southern coast, says an able 
writer (speaking of Devon and Dorset) " presents two striking 
examples of the almost sudden termination of strata, close to 
points where they attain a thickness which is very considerable," 
such for instance as the Oolite and Lias ; and near Torquay, 
the limestone and red-sand. And Mr. De la Beche also finds 
the same fossils, the radii of fish, and the Plesiosaurus, 
(which I would rather call the Crocodilo-saurus) on* the same coasts 
of Lyme, and, as I before said, on the opposite coast of France, 
in the department of Calvados. These sudden terminations 
put me in mind of the Symplegades, the jostling rocks of the 
Euxine, and nothing but volcanic convulsion could have pro- 
duced such vast effects. But there is another phaenomenon east 
of Lyme Regis which is part and parcel of the same convul- 
sive period. Not only have we breaks, and crevices, and faults 
and dislocations, and bones and teeth of the elephant and Rhi- 
noceros, both at Lyme and Torbay — but I observed that one of 
the faults on the east coast of Lyme extended from the higher 
rocks to the table rocks or valley under the ocean, where it 
commenced to open more and more widely till it apparently ex- 
tended to a great sub -marine width, Perhaps this phseuomenon 



Kent's cavern. 131 

The focus of the volcanic force in our Devonian 
region, seems to me to have been under the ocean, and 
extended equally to France as England, and was in all 
probability connected ( as to time ) with the phenomena 
of the Giant's causeway in the north of Ireland, and the 
opposite coast of Scotland. 

I have thus, Sir, complied with your request, and 

hastily put together my sentiments upon the Torbay 

strata ; — their caverns, their volcanic phenomena, and 

their organic remains, — which are at your service, not 

forgetting, as the Accomplants say, errors excepted ; and 

I remain, 

The admirer of Geology, and 

The advocate of Truth, 

THOMAS NORTHMORE. 
Cleve, March 16th, 1832. 



To Octavian Blewitt, Esq. 

%zi\tx 51. 
Sir, — A few days after I had finished the first letter, 
my bookseller sent me a well-written, and useful little 
work, composed by Mr. De la.Bkche, entitled The 
Geological Manual, 2d edition. This work is for the 
most part, adapted only to the existent state of Geology ; 
for Mr De laBeche appears to be fully apprized of the 
rapid progress of a science, in which I may almost say 
that the very idea of Stationary has no place. In truth 

may be accounted for by the sudden irruption of the ocean sub- 
sequent to and consequent upon the volcanic disruption. A 
circumstance lias lately come to my knowledge, which affords 
further proof of this igni-aqueous theory, and being in the lo- 
cality of Torquay deserves insertion. In the north-east side of 
the Bovey Heath-field-bason, Mr. Croker has, I understand, 
discovered pitch stone among the trap rocks ; on the north-east 
are the Haldon shells ; in the midst is the Bovey coal, under which 
shells have been found by my late friend Mr. Cross of Exeter, 
who bored through the strata in search for coal, so that within 
a radius of 6 miles are seen the remains and effects of igneous 
convulsions blended with diluvian ravages. Here you have simul- 
taneously trap, basalt, pitch-stone ; green-sand, shells, por- 
pbyritic jasper ; limestone, schist, granite, and Bovey coal, 
iron-ore, etc. etc. 



132 Kent's cavern. 

Geology may not unaptly, as far as regards its motion, 
be compared to the progress of a comet ; its velocity 
increases so prodigiously as it approaches its perihelion, 
that resistance seems (for [ cannot go the length of 
M. Arago to affirm that it actually does) accelerate its 
motion. Averse as Mr. De la B. appears to be 
to " hasty generalizations," and what he is pleased to 
term, " the too common endeavour to force conclusions 
p. 246. yet I rejoice to find that he can, like many other 
Geologists, sometimes forget his own positions, and even 
"feel thankful'' for theories though founded upon erro- 
neous data; " it being impossible, he adds, but that 
the investigations to tvhich theory will 7iecessarily give 
rise, must end in the most important additions to geolo- 
gical knowledge." p. 520. and compare p. 204. I hope 
that Mr. D. will not forget this, if a new theory should 
make its appearance ; and let him also bear in mind that 
more than one celebrated ancient has said the same thing 
in other words and other languages ; in fact every writer 
who contributes his quota to the banquet of philosophy 
merits thanks ; and I wish that Mr. D. when he cited 
Mr. Conybeare's account of the Trappean rocks of 
Derbyshire had not quite forgotten the honest and inde- 
fatigable Whitehurst, who had been the pioneer, and a 
very skilful one too, to the modern geological Divine, and 
to a host of his Brethren. Compare the manual 495, 
with Whitehurst's inquiry, p. 197, etc. 

1 lament also that when I see recorded the Pterodacfy,-? 
les, the various Saurians,the Belemnites.the Ammonites, 
the dapedia and marine reliques of Lyme-Regis, 1 do not 
see equally recorded the manifold exertions:, the useful 
labours, the ardent and persevering energy, the solid 
proofs of mental endowments, (to say nothing of the 
suavity of her manners, and her never-ceasing endeavours 
to instruct and improve her fellow-labourers in the science 
of geology) of a Lady to whom our modern Philosophers 
are so much indebted ; the indefatigable Miss Mary An- 
ning. See pp. 387. 9. 

I dissent indeed from some portions of Mr. D.'s 
theory, and deductions, and conclusions ; but this is 
not the place to discuss them, and I therefore proceed 
to the subject in hand. 



Kent's cavkrn. 133 

I rejoice then that at last our Kent's Hole has been 
noticed, and that too with the epithet" celebrated" at- 
tached to it (p. 165), by a gentleman of Mr. D.'s high 
attainments; but the passage which has particularly- 
drawn forth this second communication is as follows, 
(p. 186.) 

*« Dr. Buckland informs me that Mr. M.'Enery found 
rounded pebbles of granite, of the size of an apple, 
mixed with the bones under the stalagmite in Kent's 
Hole, Torquay ; and he states that he has found peobles 
of green-stone, completely rounded in the same place ; 
and that in some parts of Kent's Hole, particularly the 
lowest, the bone breccia is full of fragments of grau- 
wacke and slate, some of them rolled, some angular. 
The cave itself is situated in a limestone resting on 
shale ; and the grauwacke and slate arc rocks of the coun- 
try ; but the granite is at some distance, not nearer than 
Dartmoor ; so that although the situation of the cave is 
such as to make it possible, though not perhaps very 
probable, that under a variety of combinations, the 
green-stone, grauwacke, and slate may have been coji- 
veyed into the cave, by what are termed actual causes, 
the granite pebbles would scarcely seem reconcileable 
with such an hypothesis" Very true! and in my judg- 
ment they are perfectly irreconcilable upon any rational 
hypothesis whatever. But this passage gives rise to so 
many, and to such various reflections, that it is difficult 
to know where to begin or how to arrange ; I shall how- 
ever take the advantage of the familiar ease of Epistolary 
writing and follow my own plain and simple method — 

First then; The whole paragraph rests upon mere 
hear-say ; Dr. Buckland informs Mr. De la Beche, that 
Mr. M.' Enery informed him, etc. But supposing this 
evidence substantiated, I can only say that such good 
fortune never fell to rny lot. I saw no semblance of 
rolled pebbles of granite, nor rounded greenstone, but 
what has most surprised me is that these balls of the 
size of apples, should have been found mixed with the 
cavern bones, which bones are generally supposed to 
have been conveyed therein by beasts of prey, and, 
what is more, at various and distant periods of time, 
N 



134 KENT'S CAVERN* 

(the " beasts having lived and died there") and not 
hurried in by the furious sudden torrent of the Diluvian 
waters, but " the animals inhabiting therein, and in 
possession thereof generation succeeding generation'* 
p. 199. The very position then of these rolled granites 
militates strongly against the theory, which it would seem 
to support, and which in fact destroys all our ideas of 
time and place. Oh I no J if that theory can find no 
Better, or firmer basis to rest upon than this, it must 
go to that final abode, 

Numa quo devenit et Ancus. 
Had these rolled granites been swept over hills and 
Tallies, like their great contemporary rocks upon the 
Jura ; or their lesser Norwegian comrades scattered over 
the North of England and the British Isles, they would 
hardly have been associated with bones, lying in the 
midst of, and above the supposed Diluvian mud, but in 
all rational probability would have been deposited quietly, 
by their specific gravity, below both mud and bones. In 
truth if I were to speak my mind freely, and in the po- 
litical phraseology of the day, I should regard the whole 
paragraph in the light of a philosophical, feeler ; and as 
to the various requisite combinations of rounded granite, 
and rolled greenstone, associated with, and simultaneously 
accompanying angular fragments of grauwacke and slate 
etc., being conveyed into a limestone cavern, compara- 
tively speaking, almost hermetically sealed, (at least, a 
perfect cul-de-sac ) I agree with Mr. De la Beche in 
allowing, and barely allowing the mere possibility \ but 
that it is " not very probable" It is justly stated 
by Mr. D. that the nearest station of the granite is 
Dartmoor ; but how, or what means, these rounded 
pebbles could have been thence conveyed, or rather 
floated into the small apertures of Kent's Hole, is diffi- 
cult to contemplate, and even raises a smile when we 
attempt to reason upon. In good truth the whole of 
such a theory is involved in difficulties, and finds itself 
incessantly obliged to have recourse to miracles, or in 
other words to banish the use of reason, and thus con- 
fess its defectiveness. But since M. Thirria, and other 
Geologists have inferred that " the introduction of the 



kent'b cavern^ 135 

pebbles and clay mixed with thebones (into other caves) 
is contemporaneous with the transport of the Diluvium" 
see p. 187, I shall not forbear the attempt (how lu- 
dicrous soever), to account for their introduction into 
Kent's Hole from the granite of Dartmoor.* Now m 
order to place this matter in the clearest point of view, 
let us suppose that the chosen spot from whence these 
granite apples proceeded was from the top of Heytor, 
and I fix upon this spot because it is a peculiar favourite 
with me, and that for three reasons ; 1st. that I met 
thereon with some beautiful specimens of schorl exposed 
from the disintegrated granite ; 2d, because I believe I 
saw there the remnant of a Druidical chair ; and 3d, be- 
cause there have been found in the neighbouring quar- 
ries some very large and fine crystallizations of quartz and 
felspar. Well, then, this Solar rock lies in a direction 
due N.W\ from Kent's Hole, and thirteen miles distant 

* Among other advocates of this strange hypothesis stand the 
names of M. M. Marcel, de Serres, and Pitorre ; see Edin. New 
Phil. Journal October 1831, p. 350. Speaking of the bone caves 
in the department of Aude, where the bones are said to be 
fractured not water- worn ; it is added " The diluvial currents 
that carried in the mud, the fragments and pebbles, .may also 
have carried in such bones as they met with in their way." This 
I take for granted is part and parcel of the " orthodox creed" 
mentioned in p. 283. But omitting the eternal petitio prin- 
cipii, the very idea of a deep, very deep, and raging marine torrent 
carrying-in to the " fissures of rocks" such bones (not water 
worn) as they " met with in their ( stormy and tempestuous) 
way" involves such an accumulation of accidents and lucky 
positions, that I really must say it is more fitted for the 
Arabian nights tales, than philosophical reasoning. I can hardly 
conceive the possibility much less the probability of such a 
fortuitous concurrence of circumstances. The bones, the granites* 
the pebbles, must have all swimmed in close and compact 
parallel lines, in the same plane, and just fitted to the few 
feet of the entrance of the caves, and the time could not have 
have been various (which we know it to have been, even 
" generation after generation,") but they must all have been 
jumbled nearly together, unless 20 diluvian waters arrived 
periodically so freighted ; but what is worst is the self-contra- 
diction of these theories, for at one time the bones are carried 
in by beasts of prey or were the relicts of the animals who had 
died in the caves ; at another they are torrent-bornei 

Quo teneam vultus mutantem Protea nodo ? 

Fiet aqua, et coenum, modo Saxa, atque ossa. 



136 rent's cavern. 

therefrom, as the crow flies. f Here then we have the 
locus in quo, and a quo, or as the Botanists say, the 
habitat ; — we have next to suppose the Diluvian torrent 
running, or rather foaming, gushing and raging at the 
rate of 30 miles an hour, i.e. with steam engine velocity, 
in a due S.E. direction, carrying off in its vortex masses 
of our porphyritie moorstone ; suspending them in its 
mud ; and conveying them direct, and I had almost said 
miraculously, into the narrow mouth of the cavern. 
But here we find ourselves involved in a cloud of diffi- 
culties, which to my mind are inexplicable; for the 
cavern unluckily fronts the south-east which is the oppo- 
site direction to the impetuous course of the floating 
granites, and I see no fortunate escarpment ; no salient 
angle of a lucky valley of denudation to lend its propi- 
tious aid ; — but let us suppose both, for there is nothing 
like removing obstacles ; and with the help of Mr. D.'s 
favourite hypothesis of Eddies, we are presented with 
the view of a " rock-charged fluid," and an " Eddy- 
current, transporting boulders of granite, green-stone, 
grauwacke and slate, rolled and unrolled — some into the 
lowest part of the said cavern, and others mixed with 
the mud and bones just under the stalagmite. (Compare 
manual p.p. 1J6, 169.) But 1 wonder that another 
difficulty has not occurred to those Geologists who sup- 
port this amazing theory ; viz. that the caverns must 
already have been not only brim-full of the diluvian 
torrent, but it must have overflowed, and been gushing 
out from every pore, and aperture, at the very moment 
that the mud and boulders and rolled and unrolled bones, 
wheeled about in a marine fluid, were rushing in; and 

■f Why this celebrated portion of the double peaked Olympus 
of Dartmoor should have been called Hey, or High Tor — I know 
not. The annotator on Carrington's Foem, p. 132, observes that 
" ou the top of the tallest peak there is a rock bason, and on 
" the slope below once oscillated a Logan stone which has dis* 
" appeared. This Tor at one time was known by the appellation 
" of Ather Tor," — (read Athur- Tor,)— and this is the true and 
proper name — for Athur Tor means Solar Tor, which it truly 
was par excellence — see Bryant 1. 21. So another Tor, now 
called Roborough Rock from the district, was formerly called 
Ulles Tor, [142] i.e. from Ul, the Sun, and those two appropriate 
names should be restored. 



rent's cavern. 137 

that too, without a single accompanying fragment of ma- 
rine remains whether vegetable or animal, to support the 
hypothesis. To be sure Mr. D. brings some proofs of 
" the unequal action of our Devonian currents" even from 
the very neighbourhood of Torquay, (see p. 402,) but 
never was such inequality evinced more decidedly than in 
the instance in question, and never was it more wanted. 
In short this simultaneously universal diluvian theory 
can stand its ground no longer, it is involved in so many 
difficulties on every side ; it is exposed to so many ob- 
jections ; it stands in such constant need of the inter- 
ference of, supernatural agency ; while all along the 
human mind is so rapidly improving, that I now begin 
to fjel less surprize at any prudential postponements, and 
cautious procrastinations of philosophers ; now the school- 
master is abroad, the multa litura becomes as necessary 
to real wisdom as the nonum prematur in annum. 

I stand indeed amazed that at this eleventh hour such 
tenets shall find advocates in learned universities, and 
philosophical societies, both abroad and at home, as are 
the following ; 

1. That this mundane globe should have rolled for 
ages upon ages in the vacuity of ether, without even a 
vegetable or an animal thereon ; one solitary, dreary 
waste of mud and water ! ! 

2. That during all this prolonged and indefinite pe- 
riod, the earth should be considered as only in a pro- 
gressive state of adaptation for the reception of animated 
nature. 

3. That at last dry lands should slowly and miracu- 
lously heave up their tardy summits from the bottom of 
the ocean. 

4. That vegetation should then suddenly, and equally 
miraculously, make its appearance. 

5. That some marine animals should also begin to oc- 
cupy the ocean. 

6. That a succession of animals, terrestrial, amphibi- 
ous and marine, should then take effect, (though the 
exact order of succession is not yet, it seems determi- 
ned, ^ commencing however according to some fancied 
hypotheses, with zoophytes, (by way I suppose of a 
second preparatory adaptation) such as Infusoria, polypi $ 
ochinodermata, and so on, passing through all the clas- 



138 



KENT S CAVERN. 



ses and orders of the Insecta, Crustacea, Mollusca, Rep- 
tllla, and the feathered race, (though this is a matter of 
very great difficulty and indecision) up to the mammalia, 
crowning the whole series of incessant miracle, with the 
congenerate, and co-eval quadrumana and Bimanaj 
the monkey and the man. During the whole series of 
this strange, supernatural theory, various destructions 
of the whole, and various fresh creatio?is of the wltole 
are alledged to have been effected, and hence additional 
calls for preternatural agency. What is still more re- 
markable in this metaphysical and undigested hypothesis 
is, that though the laics of Nature have been generally 
holden in suspense or abeyance, (according to the will of 
the writer,) yet that some few of them, (having been 
found, I suppose, necessary,) have been deemed worthy 
to exist in force, such for instance, as the "general 
chemical laws. " See Manual, p. 472, 3,to47 6-478-484. 

During all this dreary period of rolling mud, not a 
thought is bestowed upon the necessary effects of the 
eruptive volcanic forces of the earth's igneous nucleus, 
nor of the various consequences of the laws of attraction 
and gravitation, and other potent laws of nature, but the 
whole are laid asleep by the magic wand, reposing I 
presume, on the sleeping Vishnu, and waiting for the 
twilight of that Divinity. 

When Sir, I see such a system supported, as it seems to 
be, by men of the greatest existent celebrity, well may 
they be adverse to general principles, and theory founded 
upon reason : well may they be eternally insisting on, and 
limiting the human intellect to facts, experiments, and 
observation. 

It is needless in this place, to investigate the causes 
©fall this perversion of reason, and obscuration of the 
human mind. Alas ! they are too obvious, but their end 
is at hand ! 

I am, Sir, 

Your very sincere, 
THOMAS NORTHMORE. 

Cleve, June 4th, 1832. 

The reader is requested to insert at Page 120, line 22 from the 
top, houses instead of tcwris. 



SCENERY OF TORQUAY. 139 

Before we extend our excursions beyond this neigh- 
bourhood, we beg to offer a few remarks on the magni- 
ficent variety of landscape with which it abounds. The 
position of the hills above Torquay affords an extent of 
panoramic scenery which is unequalled in any part of 
Devon ;* and in many of our rambles we occasionally 
burst upon a prospect partaking of the peculiar cast of a 
Swiss and Italian landscape. The scenery of Torquay, 
unlike that of many picturesque districts can never tire ; — 
there is either something new to refresh the observation, 
or the eye may rest with delight on objects which be- 
come more attractive by an acquaintance with their cha- 
racteristic beauties. There is, in fact, at all times, 
something to please. On the coast the assemblage of 
rock scenery is full of variety and interest, and from 
the hills the eye ranges over a wide extent of cultivated 
country, abounding in every description of landscape and 
terminated by the misty outline of the Moorland Tors. 
There is however a class of travelled persons who have 
a distressing desire to decry everything English, and to 
condemn every scene that is not dignified with an Italian 
title. For such tourists Devonshire has no charms; not 
indeed from her natural deficiencies, but because, for- 
sooth, they have beheld the Lago Maggiore, or can dis- 
course a five hours' harangue on the Pass of the Simplon. 
These, and the worshippers of the nil admirari 
creed — who know no pleasure but that arising from the 
defects of nature and their keen discernment of the 
faults of art, are not the persons who will enjoy the sce- 
nery of these shores. The beauties of Devon must be 
investigated, and that not superficially, but with the eye 
of philosophy and with a heart warm with the delightful 
and contented pleasure of refined taste. If our scenery 
has less of that magnificence of outline which constitutes 
the sublime, it has more of the beautiful and picturesque, 
and certainly more richness of colouring ; and it perhaps 
gains in harmony what it loses in boldness. Theimagina- 

* Barton Cross, Stantaway Hill, Tor Hill, the road from Chelston 
to Cockington, Chapel Hill, Dazon Rock near St. Mary Church, 
the Warherry, and many other spots in the vicinity command an 
unrivalled diversity of scenery. 



140 SCENERY OP TORQUAY. 

tlon can picture few more delightful scenes than the open- 
ing of a summer morning when our glowing country, rich 
with its majestic elms, and waving corn-fields, is bright 
with the smiles of day, — and Brixham is pouring out her 
fleet of fishing-smacks in a line stretching far away into 
the Channel. Nor can words convey any conception of 
the scene at that hour when the moon is shedding her 
flood of pale radiance over the waters ; — when perchance 
one solitary bark, trembling in her own shadow as the 
moonbeams dance around her, drags sluggishly along, — 
and no sound is heard but the heavy splash of the oar, 
or the song of the midnight mariner, or the distant echo 
of the waves as they fall upon the beach with a hoarse 
and melancholy murmur. Hence it is almost unnecessary 
to say that Torquay abounds in an endless profusion of 
subjects for the pencil of the artist ; wood, rock, hill 
and dale meet the eye at every turn ; and the luxuriant 
shores of the bright, blue Bay, with all its lake-like 
forms, contrast beautifully with the limestone tors and 
bursted glens with which they are surrounded. 

But the artist is not the only person for whom this 
neighbourhood has charms : — To the Geologist the pre- 
sent appearances of the prevailing formations, and the 
aspect of the shores around Torbay, independently of the 
high interest excited by our celebrated caverns, are suf- 
ficiently attractive ; — while the Botanist enjoys in the 
country comprised in the three adjoining parishes of 
Tor, Cockington and St. Mary Church, a district un- 
usually rich in his department of science, — and, at all 
seasons, has before him a delightful field of research. 
The antiquary, too, in every part of the neighbourhood 
discovers something of profit or of pleasure : — Here he 
may muse among the sacred piles, 

" At twilight hour of eve, 
Where through some western window the pale moon 
Pours her long-levell'd rule of streaming light ; 
While sullen sacred silence reigns around 
Save the lone screech-owl's note, who huilds his bower 
Amid the mouldering caverns dark and damp, 
Or the calm breeze, that rustles in the leaves 
Of flaunting iv, that with mantle green 
Invests some wasted tower ;" — 



excursions; — brixham. 141 

Here he may tracethe last evidences of Roman rule, — 
here he may wander amidst the ruins of those halls of 
feudal grandeur within which all is dumh save the song 
of the hirds which have taken up their habitation amidst 
the crumbling battlements. 

In truth, we find among the beauties of Devonshire 
nothing so engaging as this district, and the more we 
investigate its attractions the less shall we wonder at the 
admiration entertained by all who cull the flowers and 
sweets of its fertile and fascinating fields. 

EXCURSIONS. 

I. To Brixham and Berryhead. 

The distance from Torquay to Brixham is about 9 
miles by land, encircling the shore, and 5 by water, 
across the bay. If we proceed by land, we pass 
through Paignton, after passing which, we ascend the 
high down above Broad sands, and soon reach Churston 
Ferrers ; beyond which on our right, is the little village 
of Galmpton. The road now leads direct to Upper 
Brixham. Brixham, (or, as it has been at different 
times called, — Brixholm, Broxholme, or Brithick- 
sham) is the largest parish in the hundred of Haytor. 
It contains 627 1 inhabitants ; about 5000 of these reside 
in the town of Lower Brixham, which is the largest sea- 
port in South Devon, with the exception of Plymouth. 
The shipping belonging to the place amounts to above 
14,000 tons. Of these a large part consists of Trawling 
Sloops, which fish for the markets of London, Bath, 
Bristol &c, and which are to be found on the whole 
range of the southern and western coasts of the Island. 
The other vessels are chiefly light Schooners -which en- 
gage largely in the coasting trade and occasionally in the 
fruit and wine trade to the Peninsula and the Mediter- 
ranean. Brixham is therefore an important nursery of 
seamen, and the greater part of the inhabitants are occu- 
pied in naval and mercantile pursuits. The town is 
divided into Upper Brixham and Lower ; the former has 
much the character of a rural village, richly wooded, 
and containing many neat houses. The lower town has 
more the air of a place of business. It has in it many 



142 BRIXHAM. 

good houses, but the general appearance is not inviting, 
though the country around is rich and varied. The 
Pier has been enlarged three several times but is still in- 
sufficient to accommodate the increasing shipping, and it 
has been in contemplation to throw out an arm into 
Torbay from a point between Brixham and Berry head, 
which would render Torbay the mo^t commodious naval 
station in England. Whether this may ever be done or 
not. must depend on the countenance and support of 
Government, as we have shown in the Introduction. 
Brixham has a good market on Saturdays ; on the other 
days of the week a fish-market is held on the Pier. 
There is a commodious watering-place for the navy, at 
the mouth of the harbour, to which water is conveyed 
by pipes from a considerable reservoir about a quarter of 
a mile distant. 

The public Institutions of the place are not numerous. 
There is a Reading Society among the principal inhabi- 
tants, and a parish Library attached to the Church of 
Lower Brixham, containing about 400 volumes. Branches 
of the Church Missionary, Irish and Tract Societies 
exist in the place. There is a well-supported Benevo- 
lent Society for the relief of the sick poor, and another 
for the assistance of poor women in child-bed. A Me- 
chanics Institute is also well supported. There is a 
National daily school which gives education to about 200 
boys and girls, and a Sunday school containing nearly 
1000 children, who are instructed by between fifty and 
sixty gratuitous teachers. The annual Treat and Holi- 
day given to these children about Midsummer, in the 
open air, is one of the most interesting sights imaginable. 

Brixham has two Churches, that of Upper Brixham 
is rather a fine old building with a lofty tower, and with 
some remains of ancient sculpture within, clogged up, 
as usual in too many country churches, with white-wash. 
The font is worth inspection, and there are in the 
chancel several mural monuments, and a brass plate with 
a curious epitaph to John Upton, of Lupton, Esq. The 
latter is believed to be from the hand of the famous non- 
conformist Divine, John Flavel of Dartmouth, whom 
Mr. Upton patronized, and who dedicated many of bis 



BRIXHAM. 143 

printed works to him. Some of the parish registers and 
records are exceedingly old and curious, going back, we 
believe, to the year 1556. The Church of Lower 
Brixham is a modem edifice, erected by the contribu- 
tions of the inhabitants, in conjunction with the Society 
for building churches. It is externally a clumsy build- 
ing, but neat and commodious within ; affording sitting* 
to 1800 persons, more than half of them free for the 
poor. It has a good organ, and a handsome altar-piece, 
from the pencil of Mr. King, a native artist, now resi- 
dent in London. The incumbent of Upper Brixham is 
the Rev. Robert Holdsworth, of Exeter, and the curate, 
the Rev. Thos. Twysden. The incumbent of Lower 
Brixham is the Rev. H. F. Lyte, and the curate the 
Rev. J. B. Goodwin. 

The Town of Brixham and the greater part of the 
neighbouring country belonged formerly to the Pomeroy 
family of Berry Castle. About the close of the seventeenth 
century, the last owners of the property who bore that 
name, sold the lands in small lots to some of the substan- 
tial yeomen of Brixham, thus constituting a body of in- 
dependent freeholders, entitled '* Quay Lords," to whom 
the property around the town chiefly belongs. The' other 
principal landed-proprietors in the parish are, J. B. 
Yarde Buller, Esq. of Lupton House and Churston 
Court; J. F. Luttrel, Esq. of Nethway House; and 
G. Cutler, Esq. of Upton Lodge. Mr. Buller, the 
grandson of the celebrated Judge, is the principal resi- 
dent gentleman in the parish, and represents in it 
the ancient families of Yarde and Upton. His house at 
Lupton is one of the best in the County, though its 
situation is rather low : — The views from the grounds 
which have been lately much improved are very fine 
towards Torbay on the one side, and the River Dart on 
the other. Nethway House, the ancient seat of the 
Fownes family, is now uninhabited ; the owner Mr. 
Luttrel, residing at his seat, Dunster Castle, in Somer- 
setshire. This mansion has had the honour of enter- 
taining, more than once, Members of the Roval Family, 
and there are still to he seen here a buff jerkin, and 
other articles of dress belonging to King Charles the 



144 LAYWELL AND BERRY HEAD. 

second. A portrait of the " merry monarch" on the 
staircase, though much injured by damp, exhibits his ill- 
favoured face with, perhaps, tolerable fidelity. 

The chief objects of interest around the town are the 
Laywell, King 1 William's Stone, Ash Hole, and Berry- 
head. Laywell is a celebrated reciprocating' spring in 
Upper Brixham, situated at the foot of a ridge of hills, 
immediately below the lawn of Laywell House, the resi- [ 
dence of Mrs. Admiral Pierrepoint. This natural curi- i 
osity has been so frequently described, particularly in j 
the Philosophical Transactions, vols. 17 and 36, that it i 
is useless to enter largely on the subject here. The basin 
is smaller than it is usually represented : there are other [ 
springs outside the well which are subject to the same ; 
changes as the principal one ; of which they are proba- 
bly the branches. The well admeasures about six feet I 
by four. The ebbings and Sowings are extremely irre- 
gular, and often disappoint, the visitor, who frequently 
exhausts his patience before the spring begins to play. ,; 
The phenomena are of course explained on the principle : ; 
of the syphon. 

The landing of William the Third has been already 
noticed at some length,* but the visitor will of course 
examine the stone, before he leaves Brixham. We shall 
now proceed to the Berry Head. A road diverging 
from the main line near a butcher's shop, rendered con- 
spicuous by amajestic elm which is said to have sheltered a 
regiment of soldiers during a shower of rain, leads us 
through some narrow lanes to the open common. This 
noble headland is a pleasant walk of about a mile and a 
half from Brixham ; it extends abruptly into the sea, 
frowning " bold and bluff' over the bay of which it 
forms the western boundary. It is the chief shelter to 
Torbay roads from the south-westerly winds, and the 
water is so deep under it that ships in rounding it may 
almost brush the cliffs with their yard arms. It is com- 
posed of secondary limestone, and the marble from its 
quarries is much employed for building. Two fortifica- 
tions were erected during the last war on this headland, 
* Sec Introduction; 






BERRY HEAD. 145 

which in war-time were garrisoned by 1000 men. The 
barracks, however, are now gone, having* been built of 
timber, by the wise-men of that day, on the summit of a 
fine limestone rock. The Guard-house, Magazine, and 
Gun-shed baring; been erected, at a much smaller ex- 
pense, with the stone of the promontory, still remain ; 
and an old veteran, resides in one of them, " as the 
guardian of the place, and cultivates his potatoes and 
cabbages among the ruins. The only other living beings 
here are the quarry-men who work round the base of the 
rock, and a few sheep and wild birds that wander above."* 
The fine Military Hospital, half-way between Berry- 
Head and Brixham is also preserved. The fortifications 
of Berry Head are thought to be very inadequate to the 
defence of the Bay, from their elevated position and their 
distance from the anchorage-ground. The scenery from 
Berry Head is truly enchanting. " A noble expanse of 
varied landscape," says the eloquent writer in the little 
work already quoted, " spread itself out before me in all 
its rich luxuriance of green, such as England among- the 
countries of Europe, and Devon among the counties of 
England, could alone boast of. The lofty ranges of 
Dartmoor closed and crowned the whole, contrasting 
beautifully with the cultivated scene below. Immediately 
beneath me slept Torbay amidst its embosoming hills, its 
shores studded withvillasand skirted with rocks and woods. 
About a mile from the spot on which I stood, lay in a 
nook the busy town of Lower Brixham, from whence the 
faint stroke of the shipwright's hammer, and the distant 
yo-ho of the labouring sailor at times reached my ear. 
Beyond it was the ancient village of Paignton with its 
handsome church and ruins. Next appeared, at the 
bottom of the Bay, white in the Sun, the picturesque 
watering-place of Torquay. A beautiful succession of 
hills, rich in their contrasts of light and shade, carried 
me out from thence to Hope's Nose and the Thatcher 
rock, the terminating points of the opposite arm of the 
Bay. Beyond this a noble sweep of the coast stretched 

* From " the Pocket Book," a useful little religious Miscellany 
lately published at Brixham, and containing articles which reflect 
no small credit on the intellect of that town, 
o 



146 THE ASH-HOLE. 

far away to the eastward, and white cliffs and fair towns 
led the eye along the edge of the blue waters to the 
Island of Portland, nearly seventy miles distant, and yet 
(on this occasion at least) distinctly visible to the naked 
eye. ■ How magnificent,' I could not help saying to 
myself while gazing on this scene, ' how magnificent is 
earth, even in her ruins \ How clothed with beauty, 
fallen as she is, for rebellious man ! " 

Among the Plants found in the neighbourhood of 
Berry Head, are, Euphorbia portlandica , Cnicus eriopho- 
rus, Cardnus teiiuiflorus, andOphrys apifera. Linum 
usitatissimum grows abundantly on southern exposures. 

After leaving Berry Head we must visit the Ash-hole, 
a cavern of considerable interest in the limestone rock, 
near the Military Hospital. We have already alluded to 
this cave, and Mr. Northmore has mentioned it in his 
Letter to the Author in a former page. We beg, how- 
ever, to introduce the following interesting account 
extracted from a communication with which we have 
been favoured by the Rev. H. F. Lyte. At a short dis- 
tance above the Military Hospital, on the side of a hill, 
is Ash-hole. Excavations were made here to some 
extent two or three years since by the Rev. H. F. Lyte, 
in search of organic remains. A vague report existed 
that such remains had been discovered in this neighbour- 
hood ; and the tibia of an elephant is in the possession of 
Capt. Cumby. R.N. of Upper Brixham, which was 
many years ago taken by a quarry-man out of a fissure 
in Berry Head. It has not been possible to ascertain 
the circumstances under which this bone was found ; but 
as it was not gnawed like those obtained in the hyaenas' 
dens, it may be conjectured that (similar to those dis- 
covered in the Orestone quarries near Plymouth) it is 
part of the skeleton of an animal which fell from the sur- 
face of the rock into the fissure, and there perished. It 
is in substance precisely similar to those found in the , 
bone cave near Torquay, and has doubtless been pre- - 
served in the same manner, viz. by the exclusion of the 
external air by a coating of alluvial mud. The discovery 
of this bone proving that this side of Torbay had been 
formerly frequented by the same animals whose fossil 



THE ASH-HOLE. 147 

remains are found so largely in Kent's Cavern, stimu- 
lated Mr. Lyte to make an exploration of Ash-hole ; and 
as the results were rather curious, it may not be amiss 
to give a slight detail of them, and of the operations that 
led to them. 

Ash-hole is a large open cavern, about 30 yards in 
length, about seven in breadth ; and the same in height, 
with a large entrance in the centre. Tradition says that 
the cave was once open to a much greater extent than 
at present, and that one passage led to Kings ware, four 
miles distant. The first object therefore was to look 
out for this traditionary passage, and as it might possibly 
be stopped up by the accumulation of rubbish or stalactite, 
every hopeful spot was carefully examined for it, espe- 
cially the extremities of the cavern, where the stalagmite 
was quarried through in several places in search of it, 
but in vain, and from subsequent evidence, there ap- 
peared to be reason to believe that no such passage has 
ever existed. 

All attempts at exploration laterally having thus failed, 
a perpendicular shaft was next sunk in the lowest part of 
the floor of the cave, and after four feet of rubbish had 
been worked through — (for the entrance of the cave 
sloping inward peculiarly favoured the accumulation of 
rubbish) — a layer of bones, about half a foot in thickness 
presented itself, and on further examination this layer 
was found to cover the whole of the floor of the cave at 
about the same depth. These bones however were any- 
thing but those which the explorers were in search of ; 
they consisted of sheep, ox, rabbit, and even goose and 
chicken bones ; their vast quantities too were very 
puzzling, and gave rise to a variety of theories more or 
less ingenious, which however were a few days after 
completely dissipated by information received from an old 
inhabitant of Brixham. He remembered that about fifty 
years before, a large military encampment had been held 
on the neighbouring down for the whole of a summer, 
and the weather being extremely wet, the soldiers re- 
sorted to the Cavern to dress and eat their dinners ; 
which at once accounted for the accumulation of un- 
scientific bones in the place, and showed the value of 



148 



THE ASH-HOLE. 



local information in conducting- researches of this nature. 

The shaft being subsequently enlarged, aod driven 
about twenty feet deeper, the remains of a human skele- 
ton presented themselves, — the head entire, and appear- 
ing to belong to a body of large stature. Immediately 
under this were found considerable quantities of char- 
coal, and ashes, and half-consumed bones, mixed with 
broken pottery, which proved the cavern to have been 
a place of sepulture, and perhaps accounted for its name 
of Ash-hole, — a receptacle for the ashes of the dead. The 
pottery was Roman, for the most part very coarse, un- 
glazed, and scored on the outside in short parallel lines 
of about an inch in length, and occasionally perforated 
around the rim. No single urn was found perfect, but 
specimens of the sherds were preserved along with the 
bones, &c. Several human skeletons were subsequently 
discovered, together with some sling-stones, bits of brass 
and ivory, and pottery of rather a tiner texture ; but al- 
though another chamber of the cavern was opened out, 
and the shaft in the floor sunk to the perpendicular 
depth of seventy feet, nothing else of a remarkable kind 
was discovered, nor indeed was the original floor of the 
cavern ever reached ; the workings having been carried 
altogether through rubbish and vast fragments of rock 
which had fallen into the cavern from the sides or the 
mouth of it, and the excavation among the loose stones 
becoming so dangerous that it was impossible to proceed. 
There can be little doubt however from the explorations 
made, that if the whole cave were cleared out, many 
objects of curiosity would be found, although the ex- 
pense of such a measure would be considerable. The 
scisntUIe world is largely indebted to Mr. Lyte for his 
indefatigable exertions in this interesting cavern, and we 
Irope to see a subscription entered into, at no very dis- 
tant day, for the purpose of continuing the researches 
which he has so ably begun. From what has now been said 
respecting Ash-hole, it is evident that the neighbour- 
hood of Brixham was much frequented by the Komaus ; 
and in a subsequent division of this book, the antiquary 
will find the subject fully discussed. 

We have now noticed a sufficient number of ol jects 



DARTMOUTH STEAM-BRIDGE. 149 

for one day's excursion ; we shall therefore retrace our 
steps to Torquay, by the usual road, or procure a boat 
at Brixham quay and return by water.* 

II. ExcursiontoDartynouth^andupthe Dart to Totnes, 

This is an excursion of no ordinary interest. Few 
parts of Devon are more celebrated than the highly beau- 
tiful district along the banks of the Dart, and it is a mat- 
ter of rivalry between this river and the Tamar, as to 
their respective claims on the admiration of the tourist. 
The characteristic scenery of the Dart is a continual 
variety of wood, hill, and dale, covered with cultivation, 
here and there interspersed with seats and villages, and 
presenting in its course between Dartmouth and Totnes 
more of the picturesque than the romantic. We shall 
proceed to Dartmouth through Paignton and then follow 
the road leading to the new Steam-Bridge, which will 
convey our vehicles across the river and enable us to 
d r ive at once into the town. The establishment and con- 
struction of this bridge constitute such a novel feature in 
the application of Mechanical Art, that we must beg to 
introduce a few particulars respecting it. The Dartmouth 
Steam Floating Bridge was established by the joint ex- 
ertions of Earl Morley, Col. Seale, and Stanley Gary 
Esq. under the provisions of an Act of Parliament,, and 
by the permission of the Admiralty. It was executed on 
the plans and under the sole direction of J. 1VI. Rendel 
Esq. of Plymouth, Member of the Royal Society of 
Civil Engineers. It commenced work in August last, 
and has continued since that period to afford a safe, expe- 
ditious and certain means of crossing the river at all 
times, and in all weathers. Indeed, during the last 
winter it conveyed-overthe Dartmouth and Exeter coach, 
laden with passengers, twice every day, without deten- 

* We cannot omit this opportunity of expressing our deep 
obligations to the Rev. H. F. Lyte for the readiness and friendly 
manner in which he has communicated to us much information 
of great value in the compilation of this work. We have been 
largely indebted to his kindness in our account of this excursion, — 
and the inhabitants of Brixham are no less so for his exertions 
in every cause tending to advance the moral or intellectual wel- 
fare of that ancient town. 



150 DARTMOUTH STEAM-BRIDGE. 

tion, and on days when no boat could venture to cross. 
The width of the Dart at this Ferry is 1750 feet at high 
water, and about 1700 at half-tide. The Boat is flat, 
and admeasures 42 feet in length on deck, and 28 feet 
in breadth inside in the clear. A platform projects 18feet 
on each side beyond the body of the boat, for embarking 
and landing carriages, horses, and passengers, and these 
two platforms so nicely balance each other that they are 
raised and lowered by one man with ease. The Boat is 
worked by an Engine of four horse-power, having two 
boilers one of which is used alternately every week. 
The daily consumption of coals in working from 6 in the 
morning to 10 at night is Eight bushels, — never exceed- 
ing 4^ cwt. in the twenty -four hours. The average time 
occupied in crossing is nine minutes. The boat there- 
fore moves at the rate of about 190 feet in a minute. 
The chief peculiarity of this novel and ingenious contri- 
vance consists in the employment of chains extended 
across the river. This bridge has two chains, J of an inch 
in diameter, passed through the machinery and fixed on 
each shore. They lie along the bed of the river except 
when the boat is in the act of passing over, when those 
parts of the chains attached to the Machinery are raised 
to the surface, — forming however at each extremity of 
the bridge an immediate angle of 33°, so that at twenty- 
feet from the ends of the platform, a vessel may pass 
over them ; and the boat can likewise be stopped in less 
than half a minute. This plan has also the advantage of 
being economical ; for the weekly expense is little more- 
than £5, or ^6278 per annum ; and the whole establish- 
ment requires only three men, viz. a collector of the 
Tolls, and two Firemen. This was the first experiment, 
and we have therefore entered into these particulars. 
The undertaking has been attended with complete suc- 
cess, and it will confer additional honour on the fame of 
Mr. Rendel, the Engineer by whom it was executed. 
The briJge is commodious in approach, safe in transit 
in all weathers, and by night as well as by day; it re- 
quires little steam-power, and is superior to anything 
hitherto employed for ferries upon wide tideways or rapid 
rivers. 



DARTMOUTH. 151 

The steam bridge will land us below the woods of 
Mount Boone, and close to the entrance of Dartmouth, 
to which we now proceed. This ancient town, is situ- 
ated on the western side of the mouth of the Dart, at 
the northern extremity of Start Bay, and between the 
Start Point and the Berry Head. It is distant about 30 
miles from Exeter. In old records it is called Clifton- 
Dartmouth-Hardnesse, originally comprising three ham- 
lets so named; the distinction between them, although 
now little more than nominal, is still in some measure 
kept up : Clifton being an appendage of the Parish of 
Stoke Fleming, and the two others of the parish of 
Townstall. Dartmouth is peculiarly built on the side of 
a steep and craggy hill, rising above the bay which is 
here formed by the river, and extending a considerable dis- 
tance along the water's side. The town itself has few 
attractions beyond its antiquity, the houses are irregu- 
larly built, and the streets narrow ; the lower lines of 
houses occasionally communicating by flights of steps 
with those above. There are however many delightful 
villas on the heights and in different situations around 
the place ; and the picturesque scenery of the neighbour- 
hood, with the noble harbour animated by its fleet of 
shippings amply compensates for the inconveniences of 
the town. The antiquary will be pleased with the curious 
relics of ancient architecture with which Dartmouth 
abounds ; many of the houses have the old piazzas, and 
the upper stories project over the lower ; the fronts 
being ornamented with gable ends, enriched cornices, and 
grotesque and emblematical carvings in wood. Dart- 
mouth ( says Prince ) is " a large and populous town, 
situate on the south side of a very steep hill, which run- 
neth east to west a considerable length of near a mile, 
whereby the houses, as you pass on the water, seem pen- 
sile, and to hang along in rows, like gallipots in an 
apothecary's shop ; for so high and steep is it that you 
go from the lower to the higher part thereof by stairs ; 
and from the bottom to the top requires no less, in some 
places many more than an hundred. In old records it is 
called Ludhill, but now, and of a long time, Dartmouth ; 
no doubt so denominated says my author, (Risdon) bj 
the Saxons from the adjoining river." 



152 DARTMOUTH. 

The "borough of Dartmouth comprehends three 
parishes, Townstall, St. Saviour's, and St. Petrox. ft 
has two churches, named after the two last mentioned 
parishes. St. Saviour's is a fine and spacious structure , 
of the 14th century, having been dedicated as a chapel 
by Bishop Brantinghain in 1372. It is now held with 
Townstall, its mother-church. It is built cathedral-wise, 
and possesses great internal attractions. It has a hand- 
some altar-piece, a rich old wooden screen and rood- 
loft, magnificently carved. The pulpit is highly interest- 
ing ; it is stone, and has many enrichments carved in wood, 
evidently added at a date subsequent to its erection. 
The communion table is surrounded with seats, the up- 
per parts have arabesque ornaments and arms. The 
table is supported by grotesque figures, and the four 
Evangelists with their symbols. The door or at least its 
iron ornaments appear to be coeval with the building. 
The date of 1631, Mr. Lysons says, must have referred 
to some repairs. The head of Sir Charles M'Carthy, 
who was killed in a battle with the Ashantees is deposi- 
ted in this church. St. Petrox is a small building sit- 
uated near the mouth of the harbour, within the ruins of 
the old castle of Clifton. It was formerly united to the 
benefice of Stoke Fleming, but it has been augmented by 
Queen Anne's bounty, and is now a perpetual curacy in 
the gift of the rector of that parish. It is distant nearly 
a mile from the inhabitants, and in consequence of this 
inconvenience, a Chapel of Ease has been lately erected 
in the ceutre of the parish; £ 1000. having been ob- 
tained by grant from the society for building churches, 
and the remainder by voluntary subscriptions. The In- 
cumbent of St. Saviour's and Townstall, is the Rev. 
Robert Holds worth, and the Curate, the Rev. Edw. Dix. 
The Incumbent of St. Petrox, is the Rev. J. M. Glubb.f 
There are three dissenting meeting houses in Dartmouth, 
belonging to the Independents, Baptists, and Wesleyans. 
The celebrated John Flavel, the non-conformist divine, 
was minister of St. Saviour's in 1656, from which he was 

f We beg to return our acknowledgments to the Rev. J. IVf. 
Glubb, and to Mr. J. W. Colenso, of Dartmouth, for their polite 
attention to our inquiries. 



DARTMOUTH. 153 

ejected in 1G02 ; lie established the Presbyterian ehapel 
which has a monument to his memory ; he died in 1691. 
The grammar school is well supported. A handsome Sun- 
day school in the parish of St. Petrox, built by volun- 
tary subscriptions, was opened in 1823. A new public 
library has also been established ; the foundation stone 
of which was laid on the 1st. of June in the present year 
near the new market. Dartmouth has also many religi- 
ous and benevolent institutions which we need not par- 
ticularize. The " Cnstle Inn " is the principal Hotel 
in the town. 

The harbour of Dartmouth is unrivalled for safety or 
convenience in all weathers ; its deep and capacious 
basin can shelter upwards of 500 sail. The commerce of 
the place was once flourishing' and prosperous, but it has 
now dwindled away to a slight trade with Newfound- 
land, and the exportation of the produce of the neigh- 
bourhood. It has many vessels engaged in fisheries 
and the coasting trade, and its pilot-boats are well- 
known in the channel. There is a Merchants' Insurance 
Company maintained there. The jurisdiction of the 
port of Dartmouth is extensive, embracing Brixham, 
Torquay, &c. The town appears to have been governed 
by a Mayor, and to have regularly returned Members to 
Parliament since the time of Edward the Third. It has 
hitherto sent two Members elected by the Corporation, 
which is confined to twelve, with the Recorder. The 
inhabitants are now of course contemplating considerable 
changes in the polities of the borough. The scenery in 
the vicinity of this town is exceedingly fine, and the castle 
which defends the entrance of the harbour with two 
platforms of cannon commands an extensive prospect of 
the channel. We have no Botanical illustrations of 
Dartmouth. Jnchusa sempervirens and Valeriana 
rubra are plentiful near the town : Mr. Jones noticed 
Plant ago marltima and Hieracium umhellatum at the 
Castle, and Barfsia viscosa in the fields adjoining. The 
population of Dartmouth according to the census of 
last year (1831) was 4597; that of the parish of 
Townstall being 1246; St. Saviours, 23 !G; and St, 
Fetrox 1035. The annual value of real property as as- 



154 BANKS OF THE DART. 

sessed in 1815, is in Townstall ,£3021. ; in St Petrox, 
s£5114. The antiquities of this town will be hereafter 
described. On the opposite side of the harbour is the 
parish and town of Kingsware. It is pleasantly situated 
on the banks of the river, and commands a fine prospect 
of the harbour. The walls of Kingsware Castle are 
still to be seen to the south of the town. The manor 
belongs to J. F. Luttrel, Esq. of Nethway. There is a 
regular ferry between this little town and Dartmouth. 
The annual value of the property, as assessed in 1815, 
is j£525., and the population in 1831, — 275. Kings- 
ware is a daughter-church to Brixham. 

After having made himself acquainted with Dartmouth, 
the tourist will hire a boat at the quay, and proceed up 
the river to Totnes, his vehicles having been previously 
sent on to that town by land, to await his arrival. The 
banks of the Dart comprise the most picturesque and 
cultivated district in South Devon ; as we follow its 
its circuitous and irregular course, the eye is captivated 
by its rich woodland scenery, diversified by hill and dale, 
and clothed with verdure. After leaving Dartmouth the 
hills rise on each bank to a considerable height, and the 
attention is soon engaged by the wooded grounds of 
Mount Boone, the residence of Col. Seale. We con- 
tinue for some further distance through a highly cultiva- 
ted country, and soon pass on the right, the bathing 
and boat-house attached to the Greenway estate. The 
river now turns at a right angle, and forms the bay of 
Greenway which, from many parts, resembles a lake of 
great beauty. The Dart in one creek of this bay ap- 
proaches Torbay by little more than a mile. Greenway, 
late the residence of Edward Marwood Elton, Esq., is 
romantically situated on the projecting neck of land, on 
the east bank. It is embosomed in wood, and the estate 
commands some of the most euchanting scenery on the 
river. On the left, we notice Dittisham Parsonage, de- 
lightfully situated on a rising ground ; and a little beyond, 
the church and cottages of the little village, which is one 
of the most picturesque objects on the Dart. The coun- 
try around is richly wooded, and the village is almost hid 
among the trees. As we advance further, we notice 



BANKS OF THE DART. 155 

above the northern branch of Greeuway Bay, Watton 
Court, the property of Henry Studdy. Esq. ; and next 
in succession near the bend of the river, Sandridge, the 
delightful seat of Lady Ashburton. The scenery of this 
part of the Dart is unequalled either in richness or beauty. 
From Dittisham on the left and Green way on the right 
shore to the point where the river again contracts, the 
grandeur of the stream strikes the attention of every 
tourist : the picturesque inequality of the ground on 
either side adds much to its effect, and the plantations 
which adorn each slope, recline even to the water's edge. 
The prospect which now presents itself at every turn 
is truly beautiful ; wood, hill, and dale in all their com- 
binations are before us, and the majesty of the river 
as it rolls along harmonises with the scene around it. 
The course of the Dart now becomes more serpentine, 
and at every curve presents afresh succession of objects. 
In a little inlet on the right is the village and church of 
Stoke Gabriel, and Maisonette late the residence of Ad- 
miral Hicks. As we now proceed, the river continues 
to contract, and the banks become more rocky ; the 
scenery around is varied and shadowy, and the occasional 
peeps of the country are full of picturesque beauty. We 
soon glide beneath the stately woods of Sharpham, one 
of the most noble estates on the Dart,, and the seat of 
Capt. Bastard. There is a triple echo to be noticed in 
the grounds opposite these woods ; it is the most 
beautiful one on the river, and may be invoked as we 
pass along. The mansion is situated in a park of great 
attractions, and the banks of the river along the property 
are luxuriently clothed with wood. Sharpham is cele- 
brated for its Salmon fishery, and heronry. Sharpham 
aud Warleigh on the Tavy ( Dr. Moore observes in the 
Transactions of the Plymouth Institution ) are the only 
heronries now remaining in Devon. At a short distance 
beyond this, the church of Totnes is seen rising nobly 
above the town ; but the river loses much of that pecu- 
liar cast of beauty which we have been just admiring. 

We now land at Totnes. The site of this venerable 
Borough-town, is peculiarly fine ; it extends along the 
brow of a steep hill, rising from the margin of the Dart, 



156 TOTNES. 

and commanding a rich view of the river, and the blue 
heights in the distance. It consists principally of one 
street nearly a mile in length, terminated on the east by 
a new stone bridge,— a handsome and massive, although 
rather heavy structure, spanning the river by three ar- 
ches. The ancient bridge, despite its inconveniences, 
■was connected with associations of the highest interest 
to the antiquary. Many of the old houses in Totnes 
still remain, with the piazzas in front and the higher 
stories overhanging the lower. The church is an inter- 
esting fabric, having a finely-wrought tower with fret- 
work pinnacles ; it was rebuilt in 1259, and again about 
1432. The great tithes are vested in Ayshford Wise, 
Esq. The benefice is a vicarage in the gift of the King, 
and is now held by the Rev. Joseph Cuming. The 
Curate is the Rev. Thomas Cleave. The Grammar 
School was founded in 1554 by the corporation, and 
was enriched by the appropriation of part of the estates 
of Elisosus Hele, a distinguished benefactor to this 
county ; This property consisted of a tenement in the 
parish of Harberton, of the annual value of £65. The 
Charity School was established by subscription, by 
Archdeacon Kendeil in 1/32 ; it has endowed and funded 
property, independently of the amount raised annually 
by subscriptions. The establishment comprises cliff* 
dren of both sexes — the girls are dressed in green, 
and the boys, with some exceptions, in blue. The 
National-school on Dr. Bell's system is well sup- 
ported. The almshouses Lave been newly erected, and 
are situated behind the town. There are many other excel- 
lent charitable and benevolent Institutions. The Guild- 
hall, Grammar-school, and National-school occupy the 
site of the ancient Benedictine Priory, behind the Church. 

§The Guildhall and Council Chamber 
were repaired and handsomely refitted 
under the direction of Gen. Sir Geo. 
, .Adams, during his mayoralty in 1831. 
! Totnes is said to have been governed 
1 by a Mayor since the commencement 
of the thirteenth century ; King John, 
Mr. Lysons observes, <e granted the 
burgesses a charter of privilege in 1205, 



TOTNES. 157 

bftt it does not seem that they had a Mayor before the 
reign of Henry VII. who granted them the power to 
elect a Mayor annually on St. Matthew's day."* The cor- 
poration consists of 20 common-council men, and 14 
burgesses, out of whom the Mayor is elected. The 
borough has sent Members to Parliament since the 23rd 
of Edward T. ; the right of election is vested in the cor- 
poration and freemen (resident, we believe, and non- 
resident,) who have been hitherto limited to about sixty. 
The borough and parish contain 3442 inhabitants, by the 
census of 1831 ; and the annual value of property, as 
• assessed in 1815 is ^9268. 

Totnes has a weekly market, on Saturday, by pre- 
scription ; the corn market occupies the ground-floor 
of the mayoralty house. A great cattle market is held 
on the first Tuesday in every month, and the great fairs 
on the 12th of May, and 28th of October. It is therefore 
a place of large agricultural connexions. 

Totnes is one of the three Archdeaconries of Devon; 
it comprehends eight deaneries in its jurisdiction, viz. 
Holsworthy, Ipplepen, Moreton, Okehampton, Tamer- 
ton, Tavistock, Totton or Totnes, and Woodleigh. The 
office of Archdeacon is sustained by the Rev. R. H. 
Fronde, of Partington. f 

The ' South Devon Library' was established in 1811, 
and is well supported. The two principal Hotels in 
Totnes are the Somerset Arms and the Seven Stars — 
the former on the east, and the latter on the west side of 
the bridge. The Assembly-Room occupies part of the 
mayoralty-house, and is a handsome building. 

The seats in the neighbourhood of Totnes are Bowden 
the residence of Gen. Sir Geo. Adams; Follaton, Stanley 
Cary, Esq. ; Gatcombe, Mrs. Cornish ; Ingleborne, 
R. Brown, Esq.; Sandwell, J. Bennett, Esq.; Dundridge, 
Jasper Parrott, Esq.; and Dartington, Mrs. Champer- 
nowne. 

There are many beautiful marbles obtained in the 
limestone rocks around Totnes. at Berry Pomeroy, Sta- 
verton, &c. There are establishments for the nianu- 

* Lysons vol. 2. 5.32. 
t The Silver Seal attached to this Office is very ancient. 
P 



158 TOTNES. 

facture of long-ells, blanketings &c, at Totnes and at 
Harbertonford. 

The Presbyterians, Wesleyans, and Baptists have 
meeting-houses in the town : the Roman Catholic chapel 
is at Follaton, Mr. Cary's residence. John FJavel, the 
non-conformist, was the first minister of one of the 
Presbyterian congregations. Totnes is celebrated as 
the birth-place of Edward Lye, the learned author of 
the Saxon Dictionary ; Dr. Kennicott, the Hebraist ; 
Dr. John Huxham, the Physician ; and Mr. Brockedon 
one of the most popular and distinguished of Jiving artists. 

The scenery in the neighbourhood of this ancieut town 
is very beautiful. It is unnecessary to particularise, 
but it is worthy of remark that the view from Sharp- 
ham, looking towards Totnes, is not surpassed even in 
this delightful district ; and from Totnes Down Hill, 
near Bowden, the eye glances over a most engaging 
tract of country ; the town with its noble tower and 
bridge, Berry Pomeroy, and the parishes of Dartington, 
Ipplepen and Little Hempstone are before us, — the Dart 
is seen meandering in the valley below, — and Torbay, 
St. Mary Church, and the limestone tors around Torquay, 
close the distant prospect. 

After visiting Totnes, we cross the bridge to Bridge- 
town, a small village in the parish of Berry Pomeroy. 
A handsome chapel of ease has been recently erected 
there, dependant, of course, on the Church of Berry. 

At this place the tourist will rejoin his vehicles, and 
return to Torquay through Paignton, which has already 
been described. 



III. Excursion to the Banks of the Teign, Neicton, 
and Haccombe. 

The Teign is one of the principal rivers of Devon, 
and although it is inferior in majesty to the Dart, the 
scenery along its banks is by no means devoid of beauty. 
It rises near Gidleigh on Dartmoor, and is navigable for 
barges about six miles above Teignmouth, at a short 
distance from Newton Bushell. 

The new road to Teignmouth, passing through the 



COMBE-IN-TEIGNHEAD. 159 

Stony Valley, and above Watcombe and Maidencombe, 
brings us to the little town of Shaldon. From the hill 
above this place the scene is higfhly interesting" ; the 
town and harbour of Teijjnmouth lie before us, the vil- 
lages of King's and Bishop's Teignton are recognised 
among the fertile hills : the river is seen winding amidst 
the rich country around it, and the line of coast may be 
traced with its towns and rocky shores as far as the isle 
of Portland. The chief object of interest at Shaldon is 
the bridge which connects it with Teignmouth : This 
undertaking was commenced in 1825 by a joint-stock 
company, under the direction of Mr. Hopkins, member 
of the institution of civil engineers ; and incorporated by 
an Act of Parliament in the 5th Geo. IV. This Bridge 
is the longest in the united kingdom; it consists of thirty- 
four arches and a swing bridge which admits the passage 
of vessels of large tonnage. Its breadth is twenty-four 
feet, and its length 1671 ; — Waterloo bridge being, (we 
believe) 1242, and that over the Menai 1000 feet. It 
was opened in 1827, and is a great advantage to the 
south of Devon, but the turnpike trust take care that the 
traveller shall pay smartly for his recreation. We do 
not cross the bridge in this excursion, but leave Shaldon 
on our right, and follow the road along the bank of the 
river through the little hamlet of Ringmore, in which is 
a chapel surrounded by trees and erected by the Carew 
family when they held the manor. From this place we 
proceed to Coombe-in-Teignhead, a village situated in a 
picturesque vale about midway between Newton and 
Shaldon ; in the hundred of Wonford and the deanery of 
Kenne. This parish comprises the villages of Nethertou 
and Rocombe and chiefly the manor of Haccombe : the 
former is well-known to the antiquary as containing the 
ancient mansion of Buckland Baron. The neighbourhood 
of Combe abounds in delightful scenery; the Teign 
from many parts of the parish has, at high water, all the 
charms of one of the lakes of Cumberland, and Dr. Ben- 
net the late Bishop of Cloyne, always spoke of it with 
admiration. The manor of Combe was sold some years 
ago, in severalties, by Sir Bourchier Wrey, Bart, the 
heir and representative of the Bourchiers, Earls of Bath. 



160 STOKE-IN-TEIGNHEAD. 

The Baronet is still the patron of the rectory, which is 
now vested in the Rev. W. B. Wrey. The Parsonage is in- 
habited by the Rev. Thomas Kitson,the respected offici- 
ating- clergyman of the parish. The population of Combe 
according- to the census of 1831, is 460, and the annual 
value of property as assessed in 1815, is £26 ( M). The 
church is small, measuring 62 feet by 50 ; it is dedica- 
ted to St. Nicholas, the windows bear evidence of anti- 
quity. To the south-west of Combe, and at a short dis- 
tance, is the retired village of Stoke-in-Teignhead, em- 
bosomed in woods, and about four miles from Newton 
Abbot. The parish includes the villages of Rocombe, 
the two Gabwells, Maidencombe, part of Ringmore, 
and Shaldon. The church is situated in the centre of the 
village, and is dedicated to St. Andrew. S. Kekewich, 
Esq. is we believe the proprietor of the manor. The 
Bishop of Exeter is the patron of the rectory, which is 
now vested in the Rev. Dr. Collyns of that city. " Be- 
fore I quitted Teignmouth, says Mr. Northmore, I paid 
a short and hasty visit to the retired village of Stoke-in 
Teignhead. Most of the monumental grave-stones in 
the church were gone, being replaced by others of plain 
stone. This was a circumstance deeply to be deplo- 
red, for thus the traces of many an old and respectable 
family are obliterated. It would be well it the modern 
short-lived race of mortals would reflect that they also 
will soon go Nwna quo devenit et Ancus. But it is truly 
astonishing what little reflection the flutterings of tran- 
sient life permit to prevail in most bosoms. Before I 
quit this retired spot, 1 would make one observation upon 
the custom now very prevalent, but unknown to our ho- 
nest ancestors, of locking up the gates of Churchyards. 
In Wales, the tombs are decorated with flowers, and 
with thyme, and mint, and sage, and rosemary, &c. a 
custom annually renewed, and which brings with it those 
heart-felt pleasures that are above all price. But now- 
a-days, all is locked up, as if the guardians of the church 
were unwilling that the tears of the living should bedew 
the ashes of the dead. But there is one secular inconveni- 
ence attendant upon this jealous practice, viz. that the 
notices stuck upon the church doors, can no longer be 



FORD — NEWTON ABBOT. 161 

seen except on a Sunday. This was never intended by the 
legislature. Nor are the monumental inscriptions of that 
s ervice to the living, which was designed by the relations 
of the dead." * 

We now proceed until we have reached the ascent 
of Milber Down, from whose exposed and barren summit 
the view is truly splendid, embracing Stover, Bovey- 
heathfield, and the granite borders of the moor. There 
is a fine Roman camp on the edge of the Down. We 
now descend and pass Ford House, the residence of 
Ayshford Wise, Esq. an interesting mansion of the Eliz- 
abethan period. The house is situated on the banks of 
the little stream, called the Aller. Ford has been three 
times the abode of royalty ; twice of Charles the first, 
and once of William the third. On the left as we pro- 
ceed towards Newton, we pass the " Widows' Houses," 
a charitable institution founded for the reception of Cler- 
gymen's widows, by Lady Lucy Reynell of Ford, in 1640. 
The Charity was designed for four persons, but the build- 
ing has been taken down and rebuilt ; and three are now 
admitted on the foundation. On the front of one of these 
houses, are the following lines. 

" I'st strange a prophet's widowe poore sliovld be ? 
Yf strange ; then is che Scriptvre strange to thee. " 
We now enter Newton, a prosperous and extensive town 
situated in the vale of Wolborough, at the head of the 
estuary of the Teign. The town is in the hundred of 
Hay tor and the deanery of Ipplepen, and is divided by 
the river Lemon into two parts ; the one called Newton 
Abbot from being formerly the property of Tor Abbey, 
and the other Newton Bushel, from its ancient Lords, 
the Bushels of Bradley. Newton is a place of great an- 
tiquity, although few relics are remaining ; but Man 
must share with Time the title of destroyer. St. Leo- 
nard's chapel in Newton Abbot is dependant on the pa- 
rent church of Wolborough , where the clerical duties 
are, with few exceptions, performed. This division of 
the town has three dissenting meeting houses, called 
Salem, Providence, and the Baptist Chapels. The ma- 
nor is held by inheritance, by the present Earl of Devon. 

* Inserted in Besley's Exeter Paper under the signature of 
" An Antiquary." 



162 NEWTON BUSHELL, &C. 

The population of Wolborough and Newton Abbot, ( 1831 ,) 
is 2194, and the annual value of property, as assessed in 
1815, is ^62903. The market was rebuilt in 1826. at a 
considerable expense, by the Rev. Richard Lane of Cof- 
fleet. The weekly market is held on Wednesday ; and 
a butchers' market on Saturday ; the cattle fairs are on 
Midsummer Day, or if it should fall on a Wednesday, 
the Wednesday following- ; and this rule holds good at 
the next fair, September 11th ; the third and last is held 
on the 6th of November. The great cattle market takes 
place on the last Wednesday in February. From the 
central situation of Newton, it is a place of considerable 
trade, and its markets are the resort of the principal 
agriculturists in the district. 

Newton Bushel is in the parish of Highweek, within 
the hundred of Teignbridge, and the deanery of Moreton. 
This Newton and Highweek are Chapelries dependant on 
Kingsteignton. The chapel of Newton Bushel is unusu- 
ally rich in antiquarian interest. The picture of the na- 
tivity of our Lord was presented by the late James Tem- 
pler, Esq. There was formerly a market here, but it 
has been long disused. The following are the charities 
of these towns ; an alms-house was founded at Newton 
Bushel by John Gylberd, Esq. in 1530, for the relief of 
poor lazar people. The building consisted of four 
dwellings and a chapel, of which the chancel window 
still remains. The benefit of the institution is now con- 
ferred on poor people of the parish. Newton Abbot has 
the " Home Charity" and the Widows' Houses ; besides 
a charity school founded by the Bearnes, and connected 
with the Presbyterian Chapel, which has also been bene- 
fitted by a bequest from Mr. Aaron Tozer. Bell's school was 
founded in 1818, and the building was erected in 1825, 
by voluntary subscriptions, aided by a grant of s8100from 
the society. For the other benevolent Institutions in 
Newton, we beg to refer to the officiating Clergyman. 
The Rev. Richard Lane of Coffieet is Lord of the manor 
of Highweek and the two Newtons*. Highweek, inclu- 
ding Newton Bushel, according to the census of 1831, 
has a population of 1109. and its annual value by the as- 
sessment of 1815, is <£3481. John Lethbridge the in- 



TEIGNBRIDGE, — HACCOMBE. 163 

ventor of an ingenious diving-machine, was a native of 
Newton. See Gent. Mag. vol. xix. 1749. 

One of the principal attractions in this town is the 
Mineral Museum, of Mr. W. C. Radlcy , a diligent labourer 
in the field of scientific research. To his exertions the 
Geologist is indebted for the discovery of trilohite in 
grauwacke at Knowles Hill, near the Teign ; this disco- 
very has been noticed in an early division of this work. 
The scenery in the vicinity of these towns is truly en- 
chanting. From Knowles Hill, the prospect is peculiarly 
beautiful ; and from the different heights in the neigh- 
bourhood we have an unrivalled succession of landscapes 
abounding in hill and dale, wood and water, and relieved 
by an endless variety of light and shade. The principal 
seats in the neighbourhood of Newton, are Stover, the 
property and residence of the Duke of Somerset ; Hac- 
combe, Sir Walter Carew, Bart.; Vicar's Hill, the Rev. 
Thomas Whipham ; Lindridge, the residence of the late 
Rev. John Templer ; Ogwell House, Col. Taylor ; 
Bradley, the Rev. Richard Lane ; and Ford the property 
of the Earl of Devon, now in the occupation of Aysh- 
ford Wise, Esq. 

A short distance beyond Newton, on the Exeter road 
is Teignbridge, which is known to the antiquary for a 
discovery, that will be noticed in the Antiquarian depart- 
ment ; on the level ground below this bridge the South 
Devon Cricket Club hold their meetings, and the cele- 
bration of the " Ladies' day " is a scene of uo ordinary in- 
terest. The club is under the direction of a President who 
is elected annually. At the last festival, July 24th, in this 
present year, the foundation stone of the new Jew's 
bridge was laid by Arthur Chichester Esq., in the pre- 
sence of about 300 visitors, and amidst the smiles of 
the "Ladyesfair" who honoured the club with their 
company. The club house is a spacious and convenient 
building and the arrangements of the Society are excel- 
lent. This is high praise, but it is not unmerited. 

We shall close this excursion by visiting Haccoihbe, 
the ancient inheritance of the Carews. It is situated in 
a narrow vale formed by ranges of well-wooded hills, and 
is distant about two miles from Newton* It was formerly 



104 HACCOMBE KENNELL. 

the property of a family of that name, from whose monu- 
ment in the church the accompanying' arms* are taken ; 
it passed to the Carews by marriage with the Courtenays. ' 
Sir Thomas Carew took down the old 
manor-house about the middle of the 
17th century, and erected on its site 
the present mansion, which Sir Henry, N: ^x r 



•SS' 




v- 

the late Baronet, did much to improve. It is a large, 
plain building, sufficiently in character with its history 
without having any pretensions to architectural effect. • 
It stands at the bottom of a gentle ascent, close to the 
church, and is occupied by Sir Walter Carew, the pre- ' 
sent Baronet. The little church is a picturesque object 
from many parts of the grounds, it is dedicated to St. ] 
Blaise, and is rich in many splendid monuments. It is 
enclosed within iron railings. The antiquary will rejoice 
to have an opportunity of testifying his gratitude to the 
late Sir Henry Carew for the good-feeling with which he '<' 
contributed to restore the architectural beauties of this 
elegant fabric. Through his liberality, an altar-piece, 
screen and pulpit were erected by Mr. Kendall of Exeter ; j 
and although they are by no means in harmony with the 
character of the building, they afford a good specimen of J 
the resources of modern art, and an example which other 
patrons will do well to follow. The Rev. Thomas ' 
Carew is the Incumbent of Haccombe, and the ministerial 
duties are performed by the Rev, William Kitson, of 
Shiphay. The scenery around Haccombe is much ad- 1 
mired, and the varied appearances of the estate, adorned 
as it is with thriving plantations, add much to its 
interest. 

It would be an ill compliment to the Sporting World , 
in South Devon, were we to leave Haccombe without jj 
noticing the hunting establishment of Sir Walter Carew. , 
The Haccombe pack is well known in the south, and up- , 
wards of fifty noses of the var?ni?it affixed to the yard- 
door testify of its prowess. There are about fifty couples , 
in the pack, principally of the Grafton, Osbaldeston, 
Codrington and Fitzwilliam blood, a sufficient reason for 
the brilliancy of their achievements, from the banks of 
the Dart to the borders of the moor. The kennel occu- 
* Carew on the left.— Haccombe on the right. 



COFFINSWELf,. 165 

pies a dry and warm situation, and contains two spacious 
yards and sleeping rooms, flagged with slate, with a 
stream of water running through. The rubbing-post is 
an octagonal mass of granite. An extensive range of 
stables has been recently erected by the present baronet, 
and the domestic arrangements of the whole establish- 
ment are such as to give pleasure to every votary of the 
ehace. The country hunted by this pack is that com- 
prised between the Teign and Dart, bounded on the north 
by Haldon and the borders of Dartmoor ; and it is wor- 
thy of remark that a field more distinguished by respec- 
tability and true sportsmanship never rode to hounds. 

Haccombe is an extra-parochial chapelry, in the hun- 
dred of Wonford and the deanery of Kenne. It has a 
population of thirteen persons, by the census of 1831. 

We may return to Torquay through Coffinswell, 
a little village and parish in the hundred of Haytor and 
the deanery of Ipplepen. The manor, we believe, be- 
longs to Sir Walter Carew. The chapel is a small, 
though not uninteresting fabric, but it is to be regretted 
that so many interments are permitted within its walls. 
The population of the last census is 265, and the annual 
value of the property ^61825. Coffinswell chapelry is 
appendant to St. Mary Church, and is in the peculiar 
jurisdiction of the dean and chapter of Exeter. 

From this place we now return to Torquay, amidst 
some of the most extensive scenery in this district. 



IV. Excursion to Berry Pomeroy Castle. 

" The story of the triumph of time which it has been 
the duty of this work so often to repeat, (says Mr. 
Brayley in his illustrations of ancient castles,) has seldom 
been more pathetically exemplified than in the relation of 
the few facts concerning this edifice. Originally built, 
named, and occupied by a family whose nobility were 
far beyond that of many a peerage, it was retained by it, 
almost in a direct line, for nearly five centuries ; and 
then passing, for a very brief period, into the hands of 
strangers not less illustrious , it flourished for a white 



166 BERRY POMEROY CASTLE. 

with new splendour, but ultimately fell into an untimely ] 
and permanent decay.* 

This venerable relic is situated in the hundred of 
Haytor, at the distance of about eight miles from Tor- 
quay, and one from the parish church of Berry ; it stands 
upon a lofty limestone rock which rises abruptly from ' 
the east and north over a small river which flows into 
the Hemms at Little Hempston. It U impossible to 
anticipate the feelings of the antiquary when he enters ' 
for the first time the mouldering 1 halls of the departed ' 
Pomeroys ; nor is it with any common interest that he will 
survey these emblems of the vain, perishable, and transi- 
tory works of man. Rich indeed is the lesson of philosophy 
which these walls inculcate, and humiliating' to human " 
pride and ambition are the thoughts which they inspire. 
Eight hundred years have rolled away since this spacious 
hall was thronged with the retainers of feudal splendour, 
and this vaulted arch re-echoed with the tramp of the 
gallant sons of chivalry. Yes ! they have rolled away, 
and the ivy creeps, and the rank foxglove waves beneath 
the tower which once rung with the melody of "lady fair,'' 
and from whose crumbling casement the welcome of 
many a bright eye smiled on the returning warrior. 
They have indeed passed away like the phantoms of a 
dream, and the days which shone on the banners of 
princely magnificence in this once proud abode, are now 
become as a thing* which was not ! In a few generations 
more, even these relics will be gone; and while all, 
around is full of life and renovation, nothing will remain 
to mark their existence and their grandeur but an empty 
name ! 

The best place for seeing- Berry Castle to advantage is 
the Bridge over the little, stream which runs through the 
bottom of the glen ; and the stranger will do well not to 
proceed by the straight and shortest path to the ruins, 
but to pass through the court of the mill at the foot of 
the Castle, and then follow the path along the hill behind 
it, until, advancing by the side of the rivulet, he reaches 
the low rustic bridge we have already mentioned. It is 
the longest but by far the most beautiful way, and 
* Woolnotb and Brayley's Ancient Castles. Vol.1. 






BERRY FOMEROY CASTLE. 167 

strangers are too often content with the directions of the 
villagers who avoid all additional trouble. 

Berry Pomeroy Castle is celebrated in history as 
the residence of the Pomeroys, the baronial lords of Tre- 
gony and Berry. This powerful family were of Norman 
extraction ; and like the leading tribes of that country, 
they swelled the knighty ranks of the conqueror, at the 
period of his invasion. Ralph de Pomerai was one of 
the most distinguished barons in the prince's retinue, 
not only by reason of his military prowess, but by his 
zeal in the adventure of his royal chieftain. In gratitude 
for his services, William awarded to him fifty-eight lord- 
ships, among which was this manor of Berry. The 
Saxon title of Bury, Biry, or Berry, implies deep antiquity 
and these words have evident reference to the Camps in 
the neighbourhood , a subject which we hope to discuss 
at length in a future page. In this manor, then, Ralph 
de Pomerai seated himself, gave his name to the property, 
and erected his Castle in a park of five hundred acres in 
extent, around which some portions of the ancient wall 
may yet be traced. Although the venerable ruins of this 
abode of feudal power are the only records of the edifice 
which remain, they still continue to engage the atten- 
tion of every traveller of taste; and many a legend ' wild, 
drear, and romantic' is related of their ancient possessors, 
associated with all the high and vivid interest of the days 
of chivalry. The south front of the Norman building is 
entire, it measures about sixty yards in length and is 
surmounted with battlements. There is a tower called 
St. Margaret's at the eastern end of this wall, from 
which many of the Devon gentry held their lands ; at 
the western end is a castellated gateway with towers, 
which had a double portcullis, the entrance is twelve feet 
high and thirty long. It bears the arms of Pomeroy 
cut in granite, and is clothed in a rich vest of 
ivy ; the room above was probably a chapel. 
A dilapidated staircase conducts us into the 
gloomy, damp, and arched vaults, winding be- 
neath the wall of the castle, through whose massive 
masonry an occasional loop-hole admits sufficient light 
to render " darkness visible," This passage terminates 




168 BERRY POME ROY CASTLE. 

in circular chambers which are commonly called the 
dungeons, and many an idle tale is told of the ladies 
fair who have pined away within their melancholy walls. 
The remaining part of the building frequently attracts 
more attention, as it occupies a conspicuous place in the 
quadrangle of the ancient castle. It is a common error 
to confound these ruins, and a person unacquainted with 
antiquities loses much of the interest excited by Berry 
Pomeroy, in consequence of this mistake. It ought to 
be borne in mind that there is, at least, a difference of 
five hundred years between the ages of the two build- 
ings. The modern portion, which may readily be dis* 
tinguished by its transom windows, was erected by the 
Seymours who bought the property about the middle of 
the sixteenth century. Of this very extensive mansion 
the northern and eastern sides only were completed, and 
thatina style of magniGcence which cost twenty thousand 
pounds. The apartments were truly splendid, and the 
dining-hall, (we learn from Prince who was vicar of the 
parish,) was enriched with statues and figures carved in 
alabaster, and with a chimney-piece of polished marble 
curiously engraven. The marble mouldings and pannels 
of the other rooms w 7 ere so bright, that they answered 
the purpose of a mirror. A walk of considerable length 
led from the door of the great hall, arched over with free- 
stone, richly carved, and on the side away from the 
banquetting house supported by free-stone pillars of the 
Corinthian order, surmounted by highly-wrought friezes. 
The hand of man just raised all this magnificence to live 
the brief period of half a century ; for about that time 
from the erection of the building, it was almost totally 
destroyed by lightning ; or at least so much dam- 
aged that the family ( principally in consequence of 
their circumstances in the civil wars) did not feel equal 
to restore it. Prince does not mention this fact, for we 
believe their existed at the time some misunderstanding 
between him and the Seymours ; but he alludes to it, 
when he says that " one and the same age saw the rise 
and fall of this noble structure." It has been idly con- 
jectured that the Castle was dismantled in the civil wars, 
and it has excited surprise that there are no vestiges of 



BERRY JPOMEROY CASTLE. 169 

a siege ; it was undoubtedly destroyed about that period 
in the manner we have stated, but the tradition of any 
military operations is obviously incorrect. 

The ruins of both these edifices are now seen in the 
last stage of their splendour, crumbling side by side under 
the hand of time ; the walls are enshrouded in flaunt- 
ing ivy, and the fern-leaves nod in the breeze on the broken 
turrets ; the song of the bird is now the only sound 
within the precincts of the fabric ; and on the top of the 
highest wall a raven annually builds his nest, " and as he 
croaks and stamps, and pulls up the dry grass with his beak 
and tosses it angrily down on the heads of the intruders 
below, he seems to be animated by the spirit of the last 
of the Pomeroys, and to assert his ancient seigniory over 
the place." 

Berry Castle descended from Sir Ralph de Pomerai in 
an uninterrupted succession, and remained in his family 
for nearly five centuries ; namely from the Conquest 
to the reign of Edward the VI ; when the property was 
sold by Sir Thomas Pomeroy to Edward Seymour, or ( as 
the fashionable alias fancies it) St. Maur, Duke of Somer- 
set, the Protector ; others suppose that this disgraceful 
alienation originated in another cause, and that as Sir 
Thomas Pomeroy was deeply involved in the rebellion of 
1549, he made over his manor and Castle of Berry to the 
Duke of Somerset, as a compromise for his life. It is how- 
ever more probable that it was conveyed by grant or pur- 
chase immediately from the Crown, for it is evident that 
the Protector enjoyed no such power as is here assigned 
to him, since he was himself in the Tower at the time 
of Pomeroy's attainder, and was beheaded on Tower hill 
in 1552. The eldest son of this accomplished but ill- 
fated nobleman, Lord Edward Seymour, retired to his 
newly-acquired possessions, and sought in Berry Pome- 
roy that quiet which had shone so feebly on his father's 
fate ; but fifty years had scarcely past, when the whole 
of his magnificent mansion was destroyed and deserted 
for ever and left in ruin and decay. 

It would be an interesting, and by no means unpro- 
fitable task to collect and examine the legends associated 
with this and the other feudal castles in the west of 



±70 BERRY POMEROY CASTLE. 

England. Such an undertaking on an extended scale 
has been promised to the world, and the names of Roscoe 
and Leitch Ritchie are ample pledges for its perform- 
ance ; and we hope that some more light will at length be 
thrown on these relics of Devon. We have the following 
tales of this Castle : — 

In the time of Richard the first, Henry Pomeroy 
warmly espoused the cause of the rebels, and by his 
support of Prince John, contributed in no small degree 
to foment the civil commotions of that reign. On the 
return of Richard from the Holy Land, a herald r was des- 
patched to Berry Castle under the pretence of bringing 
tidings from the King, who after enjoying the hospi- 
tality of Pomeroy for many days, is said to have suddenly 
arrested him as a traitor, to make his appearance be- 
fore the Court to answer to a capital charge; " which 
unexpected and ill-carryed message the gent took in such 
despite, as with his dagger he stabbed the messenger to , 
the heart." He instantly retired to his Castle at Tre- ; ; 
gony in Cornwall which he fortified in behalf of Prince 
John, and subsequently advancing with his retainers, in 
the dresses of Benedictine monks, to St. Michael's Mount, ;| 
he was admitted by the brethren on the score of friend- 
ship; when he threw off his disguise and took possession 
of the monastery. He was here besieged by the Arch- 
bishop of Canterbury and the Sheriff of Cornwall, and 
at last committed suicide in despair. Carew varies this II 
tale by saying that " well-knowing in so superlative an 
offence all hope of pardon foreclosed, he abandons his I 
home, gets to St. Michael's Mount, bequeathed a large II 
portion of his laud to the religious people there for re- \ 
deeming his sinne, and lastly causeth himself to be let j 
bloudunto death, for leaving the remainder to his heire." 
The story has been prettily versified by Mr. Bird in the 
fourth vol. of the Forget-me-not. 

There is another legend that when the baronial cas- ] 
ties were ordered to be dismantled, the two Pomeroys re- 
sisted the call, and at length, in the wild spiritof romance, i 
spurred their chargers over the cliff and were dashed to : 
pieces, preferring a death of freedom to any semblance 
of submission. 

We now take leave of Berry Pomeroy Castle, with the 



LOVENTOR AND BLAGDONo. 171 

sincere hope that some one, at no distant day, will do 
for it and for the South of Devon what Mrs. Bray has 
so ably done for Tavistock. The field is rich ; may the 
labourer, when he appears, be equal to it.- 

The manor of Berry with Bridgetown is now, hy direct 
inheritance the property of Edward Adolphus, Duke of 
Somerset, who occasionally resides at the family mansion 
in the village. This ancient building, called Berry Great 
House, is said to contain the oaken bedstead of Jane 
Seymour, a coat of mail and casque brought from the 
castle at a remote period and belonging" to one of its 
former lords, with many other relics of days of old. W? 
have no means of determining the precise period of its 
erection except by the style of its architecture, which 
sufficiently attests its age and its antiquity. 

The church was built by one of the Pomeroys and is 
rich in monumental remains ; among others it has the 
grave-stone of John Prince, Author of the Worthies of 
Devon, who was vicar of the parish for 42 years. We 
have described all these antiquities in another page. 

The population of the parish in 1831 was 1186, and 
the annual value of the property, as assessed in 1815, is 
^7419. The Duke of Somerset is impropriator of the 
great tithes, and patron of the vicarage. The present 
Incumbent is the Rev. Mr. Edwards. 

In this parish is Loventor, one of the old possessions 
of the Pomeroys. After passing through the hands of 
Arundell and Damarell it came to the J*ydes, and from 
them about the close of the last century to Sir Geo* 
Baker, Bart. The house is a delightful residence and 
is pleasantly situated. 

We now return to Torquay through Blagdon and 
Paignton. The ancient mansion of Blagdon is a respect- 
able building of red conglomerate, it is situated in a deep 
bottom and is surrounded by an extensive lawn. The 
Barton of Blagdon was long the property of the Kirk- 
hams, a distinguished family in these parts in thefifteenth 
and sixteenth century, and the name is immortalised by 
its having been one of the favourite residences of Pope* 
many of whose letters are dated " Blagdon." The Poet, 



172 KINGSKERSWELL AND WOLBOROUGH. 

we believe, was the personal friend of the Kirkhams, and 
the place may well be proud of the honour he has con- 
ferred on it. 

Hoc tibi, nee tauto careat iuihi nomine charta. 



V. Excursion to Wolborough, the Vale of Bradley, 
Ogwell, Denbury and Ipplepen. 

This is a highly interesting excursion, and although 
we cannot call it an untrodden field, it seldom receives 
from the tourist that attention it deserves. The beauties 
of the district we are about to visit are not exactly within 
the range of mere description ; they must be investi- 
gated and felt, and our duty is only to direct the steps 
of the stranger. The little village of Kingskerswell is 
the first object to engage our notice after leaving Tor- 
quay : It is distant about three miles from Newton, 
and the manor has at different times been in the hands of 
some highly distinguished families. It is now the pro- 
perty of the Browns. The Church contains some splen- 
did mutilated monuments of the Dinhams. The dean 
and chapter of Exeter are appropriators of the tithes, 
and patrons of the benefice which is an appendant to St. 
Mary Church. The School-house for the education of 
60 children was built by the Rev. Aaron Neck of Edgins- 
well, the officiating clergyman, by whom and by an 
annual allowance of .£20. from Mrs. Brown, the ex- 
penses are defrayed. From Kingskerswell we proceed 
to Wolborough, a parish of some extent, and abounding 
in many objects of antiquarian interest. It is situated 
on a high ground, and the village, particularly the 
church-yard, commands a variety of panoramic scenery, 
which is rarely surpassed. The Church, which will be 
hereafter noticed is a conspicuous and interesting fabric. 
Ford, the residence of Ayshford Wise, Esq. is in this 
parish. From Wolborough we proceed to Bradley, and 
follow the windings of the little river Lemon, into that 
delightful vale. The opening of this valley is truly 
beautiful ; — the meadows richly adornedwith verdure and 
thriving woods, give a feeling of rural quiet to the scene 
which is exceedingly pleasing, and at length the vene- 



BRADLEY. 173 

rable walls of Bradley house are recognised amidst the 
foliage. This unique edifice is the most interesting 1 spe- 
cimen of a fortified house on a small scale in South 
Britain. The original building was a quadrangle, the 
northern and western sides of which were removed some 
time in the last century ; there are however many re- 
mains of the old fabric incorporated with the rest, 
but the date of their erection is unknown although it is 
generally assigned to the 14th century. The chapel, 
lodge, and the eastern front are in the gothic style of the 
early part of Henry the sixth's reign. The chapel is 
exceedingly curious ; it is very small and is separated by 
an elaborately carved partition of oak from the great hall. 
The arms of Courtenay, De Englishvillej Bushel, Ferrers 
and Bishop Lacy, adorn the groins of the roof ; the 
ancient confessional Ss still recognised in the western 
wall, and the piscina is preserved on the left side of the 
altar. The principal rooms on the ground floor and 
others above bear marks of high antiquity, and the 
carved ceiling and handsome windows of the great 
bed-room must interest every beholder. The whole 
mansion abounds in relics of great value, and deserves 
the attention of every visitor. The antiquary will lose 
no time in investigating it, and will derive more profit 
from a personal acquaintance than any description can 
give him. Some coins of Henry VIII were found in 
J 81 8 while some parts of the building were repaired. 

Bradley in the reign of King John was in the hands 
of the Courtenay family ; and in the thirteenth century 
the Crown granted it to Theobald De Englishville, from 
whom it passed to the Bushels his kinsmen. In the time 
of Richard the second it came from them to the Yardes, 
who sold it in 1751 to Thomas Veale, Esq. from whom 
it passed to his relatives the Lanes of Coffleet, with 
whom it now remains. 

We proceed from this through the richly-timbered 
glen to Broadridge-plain from which we enjoy an almost 
unbounded prospect, diversified by hamlets, hills, and 
dales, wood, lawn, and water ; and then crossing the 
river at Churcombe Bridge ascend the hill to White 
Rock, a mass of limestone overhanging part of the valley. 



174 OGWELL AND DENBURY. 

Those only who have enjoyed the scenery from this 
spot can form any idea of its beauty and magnificence. 
The rich, fertile and cultivated vale of Bradley has 
charms for the eye of taste at all times and seasons ; 
and among 1 all the glowing landscapes of our southern 
shores we know none which can rival this. 

We now cross to Ogwell, a village situated in a ro- 
mantic valley, and our attention is at once engaged by 
the picturesque appearance of the old mill, which is 
heightened by its position and the caste of the scene 
around it. There are two villages of this name, called 
respectively east and west Ogwell. They are both in 
the hundred of Wonford, and are the property of Col. 
Taylor, who is patron of the rectory. The celebrated 
mass of marble full of madrepores, mentioned in a former 
page, is situated in the limestone chain on this property, 
Ogwell-house the delightful residence of Col. Taylor is a 
modernised mansion of some interest, which was erected 
originally by Sir Thomas Reynell in 1589. It is situated 
in West Ogwell. Both villages have churches which we 
shall elsewhere notice. The neighbourhood participates 
in all the attractions of the district. From this place 
we proceed to Denbury. This village Mr. Lysons ob- 
serves is "described as a borough in ancient records." 
The name alone denotes considerable antiquity. The 
manor was one of the possessions of Tavistock Abbey, 
and became in consequence, the property of the Russells ; 
the Duke of Bedford still being the patron of the rectory. 
The manor subsequently passed to the Reynels who 
seem to have aimed at all the rich property in the vici- 
nity of their seat. Col. Taylor of Ogwell is the present 
proprietor. Denbury is little known but for its thrice- 
celebrated holiday fair on the 19th of September. Few 
are they among the neighbouring villagers for many a 
mile round, who do not hasten on that day, to share in 
the revelry and join in the games of "Denbury Fair." Old 
and young of all sexes there assemble, and while one 
presiding deity of the festival is making war with the 
heads of his adherents, another, no less potent in the 
market of bipeds, commits sad havoc among the hearts. 
of the ' dark-eved maids of Judah.' 



TORBRYAN AND IPPLEPEN. 175 

There are the remains of a Roman Camp on Denbury 
Down ; this and the station on Milber Down, the high 
ground opposite, served to protect the road which pas- 
sed between them. We now advance on our excursion 
and visit Torbryan and Ipplepen. The country in which 
these villages are situated is rich in local and scientific 
interest, and is well worth the attention of the tourist. 
We regret that our limits do not allow us to enter fully 
into their attractions, because, with the exception of the 
artist, few have condescended to notice them ; and that, 
even, in the most cursory manner. Torbryan as Prince 
observes, takes its name from the rocky land and tors 
around it. The whole parish abounds in wild but beau- 
tiful scenery, and the eye rests with delight on the 
church, as its tower rises from the dark wood in which 
it is embosomed. At Dornafield in this parish the lime- 
stones cover a small common, and have the appearance 
of rocks perforated by the pholas. Ipplepen, which 
gives name to a deanery of some extent, is a neat and 
respectable village. " This parish (Mr. Lysons says) 
has some romantic scenery, abounding in tors or rocks, 
particularly a small valley called stony Combes. There 
are several subterraneous rivulets ; one of these, be- 
neath the place of its emerging, fertilizes a meadow to 
such a degree, that without any other manure it pro- 
duces three crops of grass between March and Septem- 
ber." Part of the ancient cross still remains in the centre 
of the village and commands a fine variety of scenery. 
The dean and chapter of Windsor are patrons of the vi- 
carage ; the property is held under them by George 
Drake, Esq. in whose family the lease has been vested 
for more than 150 years.* The church is a handsome 
edifice at the north west end of the village. There 
was once a priory at this place. Mr. Drake's family 
have long occupied the old vicarage-house, which i& 
situated in a little valley on the north. A few years 
ago, a copse behind the house was frequently visited by 
the Nightingale. From Ipplepen we may proceed to 
Little-Hempston and thence to Totnes, but in this ex- 
cursion we shall return to Abbotskerswell, a small vil- 
lage of some antiquity about two miles south of Newton. 
* Lysons p» 295,. 



9^1 EDGINSWELL, CADWELL AND SHIPHAY. 

The manor is the property of the Rev. George Ley of 
Cockington, with the exception of a moiety in the pos- 
session of Mr. Codner. The vicarage is in the gift of 
the crown, and the great tithes are appropriated to the 
vicar of Corn worthy.:}: The Rev. William Kitson is the 
present Incumbent. In this parish is Aller the pro- 
perty of the Rev. George Baker, and celebrated for its 
pipe and potter's clay. A manufactory of bricks is main- 
tained on the estate. We now follow the road to Edgins- 
well, a manor or reputed manor*, once the property of 
the Southcotes. It was sold in 1773 by John Henry 
South cote, Esq. in two moieties one of which is held 
by the Rev. Aaron Neck, and the other conjointly by 
the Miss Codners of Tor, by inheritance from their 
grandfather, Mr. Richard Codner. Edginswell-house 
is a neat modern villa, erected by the proprietor, the 
Rev. A. Neck, whose many valuable contributions to 
the botany of South Devon, are known to every admirer 
of the science. The house is pleasantly situated, and 
the grounds command some fine landscapes of the 
neighbourhood. Beyond Edginswell is Cadwell, a man- 
sion surrounded by well-wooded and luxuriant land ; it 
was erected by the late Sir Thomas Louis, Bart, and is 
now the seat of his son Capt. Sir John Louis, Bart. R.N. 
About half a mile distant, on our road to Torquay, is 
Shiphay, the property and residence of the Rev. Wm. 
Kitson ; by whose grandfather, William Kitson, Esq. the 
manor of Collaton Sheephay or Shiphay was purchased 
in 1742, of Sir John Lear, of Lindridge. The grounds 
are laid out with great taste, and the avenues abound 
with venerable trees. The scenery in many parts of the 
estate is truly beautiful. 

We soon reach Tor, passing St. Katharine's, a hand- 
some gothic edifice, the residence of Wm. Vivian, Esq. 
and thence return to Torquay, having, we hope, in this 
excursion made some additions to our profit and our 
pleasure. 

VI. Excursion to Dartington and the Vale of Totnes. 
The interesting scenery in the neighbourhood of Dar- 
tington induces us to make it the subject of a distinct 

X Lysons p. 94, * Lysons, 



DARTINGTON. 177 

excursion, and the Antiquary will probably embrace this 
opportunity of investigating 1 the remains of the olden 
time in Totnes. Dartington Hall the seat of Mrs. Cham- 
pernowne and once the abode of the Dukes of Exeter, 
is distant about a mile and a half to the north of Totnes, 
and is situated above the banks of the Dart, which winds 
beautifully round the greater part of the estate. It is 
impossible to visit this relic of almost princely splendour, 
with feelings of common interest ; for the mind will 
wander back to the period when the hall resounded with 
the revelry of the lordly banquet, and the banners float- 
ing in the breeze proclaimed the noble seat of feudal 
dignity. The mansion is still highly interesting, but 
the great hall, about 70 feet long and 40 wide, and a 
few other portions of the building are the only remains 
of this superb structure. The height of the side walls 
of the hall is 30 feet and of the roof 50. It separated 
with its appendages the two quadrangles, of which the 
edifice was composed. Of the outer quadrangle which 
measures 245 feet by 157, three sides are perfect, the 
north being occupied by a barn and stables. The ancient 
walls are of immense thickness, and the apartments were 
entered by five door-ways, projecting from the front Avith 
steps, and leading to the rooms over the ground floor. 
The porch and tower are 44 feet high and embattled ; 
the former is vaulted, and in the centre of the cross of 
the arch is a rose with a recumbent stag in the middle, 
and the cognizance of the noble family of Holland. The 
apartments which formed the inner quadrangle, to the 
west of the hall, have been taken down, with the excep- 
tion of the western wall with pointed windows which, 
Mr. Lysons says, formed part of a gallery 100 feet in 
length. f The tower and this wall, are richly clothed with 
ivy, and have a very picturesque effect from a distance. 
The following history of Dartington we prefer giving- 
here along with the above description in order to present 
a connected account of it. According to Sir William 
Pole it was held in the 20th year of William the Con- 
queror by William de Falesia, after which it became the 
property of Martin de Tours, Lord of Camois in Wales^ 
and of Combe-Martin in Devon. This family of Mar- 
f Vol. 1 } p- cccxlviii. 



178 PARTINGTON. 

tin or Fitz-Martin, held it until the 19th year of Edward 
the second, when Lord William Martin, a parliamentary 
baron, dying without issue, it fell into the possession 
his nephew Lord Audley, the hero of Poictiers. At , 
his death, Dartington, by an entail made in default of 
male issue, escheated to the Crown, and was given by 
King Richard the second, to his half brother Lord John i 
Holland, Earl of Huntingdon and Duke of Exeter. At | 
the extinction of this branch of the Holland family , in 
the person of Henry Duke of Exeter, who married a 
sister of King Edward the fourth, it again returned to 
the Crown. The pathetic story of this Henry, the last 
of the elder line of Hollauds is truly a romance of real 
life. Born in all the pomp and splendour of his ancient 
house, and allied by the closest ties of marriage to the 
British Crown, he entered military life under the bright- 
est auspices, and his banner was among the foremost at 
the memorable battle of Barnet-field. He was there 
dangerously wounded, and being immediately afterwards 
disinherited by the Parliament, he fled for safety to the 
Continent where he is said to have been obliged to beg 
his bread. How justly might he have sympathised with 
the members of another illustrious family of Devon, and 
have cried in the language of their beautiful and plaintive 
motto, 

' Ubi lapsus ? quid feci ? 
Whither have I fallen — What have I done ? 

Dartington, after this, was granted in 1487 to the 
Countess of Richmond, for her life only; and on its return 
to the Crown it was purchased, as Sir William Pole 
says, by the Ailworths of London, who sold it to Sir 
Arthur Champernowne of Modbury. It continued in 
the possession of this family till 1774, when, by the 
death of Rawlin Champernowne, Esq, it devolved, pur- 
suant to a remainder in the will of his predecessor, Ar- 
thur Champernowne, to Arthur, son of the latter's 
only daughter and heir, Jane, wife of the Rev. Richard 
Harington, brother of Sir John Harington, Bart. In 
the same year Mr. Harington took the name of Cham- 
pernowne, and continued to reside at Dartington until 
his death in 1819, when the barony of course devolved 
to his son, Arthur Chain pernow T ne Esq., the present 



DARTINGTON 179 

proprietor, with whose descendents may it long remain 
entire and prosperous. There are none of the Devon- 
shire worthies of whom history has preserved more in- 
teresting memorials, or whose splendour and dignity 
have heen so much celehrated by tradition, as the family 
of Champernowne. The church is a handsome and en- 
gaging fabric ; containing many memorials of the Cham- 
pernowne family. The Rev. R. H. Froude, the Archdeacon 
of Totnes,is the Incumbent, and resides at the Parsonage. 

Dartington is within the hundred of Stanborough and 
and the deanery of Totton : The annual value of the 
property by the assessment of 1815 is ^£6755 ; and the 
population by the last census, 618. 

Much light has been thrown on the history of this 
neighbourhood by the researches of Archdeacon Froude, 
whose indefatigable exertions will give great value to 
the documents relative to the history and antiquities of 
the county, which are now collecting by the Exeter 
Institution. 

The scenery in the neighbourhood of Dartington is 
truly magnificent, the venerable mansion commands a 
most fascinating view of the vale of Totnes and the 
picturesque windings of the Dart, and the whole district 
for many miles round is rich in antiquarian interest of a 
high order. 

VII. Excursion to Ashburton, Holne Chase, and 

Buckfast Abbey, returning along the north eastern 

banks of the Dart. 

Well has Carrington, the bard of the moor, called 
Devonshire Land of the Matchless View ! In our pre- 
sent excursion we shall often be called upon to confess 
its truth, and to say with another native poet — 
Speak not of Italy, she cannot show 
A brighter scene than this I* 
The wild and precipitous scenery of Holne Chase de- 
servedly engages the attention of every tourist of taste, 
and as we cannot pretend to perform in a few hours the 
excursion laid down at the head of the present article, 
we think it right to inform the reader in limine that he 
* R. L, Stevens. 



180 ASHBURTON. 

must devote to it two days at least. It is occasionally a 
very pleasant thing to form a pic-nic at Holne Chase, 
and to accomplish it in a flying visit of twelve or fifteen 
hours, but it is impossible in that time to explore its 
beauties, to feel anygratificaationin the visit, or to derive 
that profit which it is really capable of affording. We 
shall therefore in the first day of our tour visit Ashbur- 
ton, the Chase, Buckland and other places on the higher 
part of the River, and on the second explore Buckfast- 
leigh and thence proceed along the banks of the Dart to 
Little Hempston and Totnes. 

Ashburton, which will be our resting place on the first 
day, is a borough and market town of much respecta- 
bility, distant about fifteen miles from Torquay. It is 
situated on the great western road midway between 
Exeter and Plymouth, in a fertile valley protected on 
the west by the barren rocky hills of Dartmoor. It is 
principally comprised in one long street, and the accom- 
modations for travellers are so excellent, and the neigh- 
bourhood so beautiful that one may well be tempted to 
make a longer residence. The antiquary, of course, 
will not fail to visit the church, a handsome cruciform 
structure, dedicated to St. Andrew, belonging, it is said, 
to the fifteenth century ; and having a fine tower, ninety 
feet high, terminated by a small spire. The manor be- 
longs jointly to Lord Clinton and Sir Lawrence Palk, 
Bart, through whose united influence the two members 
have for some years been returned. It is a borough by 
prescription and was one of the stannary towns of 
Devon. The Grammar School, at which were educated 
— the first Lord Ashburton, Dr. Ireland the Dean of 
Westminster, and Gifford the modern Aristarchus, — 
occupies the chapel of St. Lawrence, an endowed 
chantry, in behalf of which Bishop Lacy granted 40 
lays indulgence to all contributors. In 1823, the Rev. 
. I. P. Jones of North Bovey, the botanist, published a 
i uide to this town, to which we beg to refer the tourist 
?ho desires more information respecting it. The pre- 
en!; population of Ashburton is 4165, and the annual 
;slue of its real property as assessed in 1815, 567848. 
The Ashburton Downs command an extensive pros- 



BUCKLAND, SPITCHWICK, AND DARTMEET. 181 

pect, bounded on the south by the Channel, and by the 
High Tor rocks on the north, the woods of Bagtor, and 
the wild varied country towards Ilsington. 

We shall now proceed to the enchanting country in 
the neighbourhood of Ashburton. Holne Chase is about 
two miles from the town, and in order to examine the 
whole of the Chase, which is seldom done for want of 
time, we propose to proceed to Dartmeet, six miles on 
the road to Two Bridges, and thence return down the 
banks of the stream. The excursion from the termina- 
tion of the main road must be continued either on horse 
or foot, for carriages are in many places useless. A 
guide will, of course, be obtained to direct the visitor, 
if he be a stranger to the neighbourhood. The best 
plan, perhaps, will be to proceed at once to the little 
village of Buckland on the Moor, near which is the 
beautiful residence of Mrs. Bastard, the widow of the 
late respected member for Devon, J. P. Bastard, Esq. 
of Kitley. The prospect from these high grounds, par- 
ticularly from Hamil Beacon, is rich and varied; em- 
bracing the windings of the river along the deep and 
narrow valley, the long range of hills in the distance, 
and the open country around Ashburton and towards the 
coast. Spitchwick the seat of Lord Ashburton is near 
this place, on the left bank of the river, and embosomed 
in nourishing plantations; the rich luxuriance of which 
contrasts with the barren, rocky, and gorse-clad com- 
mons which surround it. A short distance on, we de- 
scend into the romantic valley of Dartmeet, so called be- 
cause the eastern and western branches of the Dart meet 
at this place in the bottom. The three parishes of Lyd- 
ford, Widecombe and Holne here also form a junction. f 
But the most engaging object in this vale of Dartmeet 
is the ancient British Bridge, one of the most inter- 
esting specimens of the moorland bridges we know. 
These dilapidated remains consist of three upright 
masses of fiat uncemented stones, at proper intervals for 
the passage of the current, and connected by long hori- 
zontal slabs. The stones are rude and the bridge was 
evidently formed before regular arches were known. 
f Carrington's Dartmoor* 



182 I10LXE CHASE. 

Below this,- near the junction of the streams, the river is 
spanned by a modern bridge of two arches ; the valley 
here is really magnificent, on one side Ave have a dreary 
uncultivated waste, and on the other a thriving wood, 
enclosing a house and farm of great picturesque beauty. 
The two rivers lose their characteristics of east and ' 
west at Dartmeet, and flow on in one channel simply as 
the Dart, and in the midst of scenery wild and romantic 
in the extreme. Two miles below this point of junction, 
is a fine cascade, which is not so well known as it de- • 
serves. The granite rocks around are thrown together 
in wild confusion, and the river, broken by the immense 
masses which bestrew its bed, bursts in grandeur over, 
tlie shelving rock and rolls along white with foam ; ' 
while the valley re-echoes with the roar of its troubled 
waters. As it approaches Holne the vale contracts, and^ 
becomes more rocky and precipitous, the eye is soon 
pleased with the new aspect of the country as we pro- 
ceed. The plantations of Spitchwick now begin to ap- 
pear, and the scene is incessantly diversified by the deep ! . 
and bursted glens, the rich woods, and the rugged moun- 
tains around, and the clear rivulets which pour their ' 
tributary waters into the stream below. It is impossible 
for words to convey any idea of the feelings of the tra-> 
veller as he enters that part of the valley to which the 
name of Holne Chase is given. The road over Buck- 
land rock commands one of the most impressive scenes 
in our excursion. We descend the heath near Spitch- 
wick to New Bridge, which connects part of Wide- 
corn be with Holne, and then advance through the woods 
to the village, which is situated in the midst of this 
enchanting scenery. The sombre and shadowy caste of 
this dell with its dark and rugged belt of tors associated 
too with the sacred feelings of antiquity, produce an 
effect on the philosophic mind which years cannot dis- 
pel. Nature here appears to triumph over art, and in 
all the sullen pomp of her primitive sublimity to defy 
alike the" efforts of man and the solemn march of Time. 
She works with her rudest materials, and with them 
blends the beautiful and the sublime. Cold indeed must 
that heart be which does not feel better, more exalted, 



IIOLNE CHASE. 



183" 



and more pure in the midst of tin's magnificence. The 
wanderer in North Wales may look in vain for a scene of 
such interest as the Lover's Leap, below Buckland and 
opposite the Chase. " Holne Chase, says Mr. Jones 
in his guide to Ashburton, extends for about two miles 
along* the banks of the Dart, — the upper part is wild 
and rocky. A road is formed through the woods ; the 
descent to the river is steep ; the stream can be heard as 
it rolls over the rocks, but hardly seen, being concealed 
by the trees. Some views are occasionally caught of 
the high downs on the opposite side which arise in a 
very precipitous manner from the bed of the river, over- 
topped with crumbling rocks. At the entrance to the 
Chase there is a fine walk near a mile in length, enclosed 
on each side with large bushes of holly, and the air is 
perfumed with the fragrance of the Myrica Gale which 
grows in great abundance in the swampy spots near the 
river. The greater part of the parish of Holne belongs 
to Sir Bourchier Wrey, Bart.; his woods extend along 
the river for several miles. . Beyond the Chase, near 
Holne Bridge, is Holne Park, the seat of Sir Bourchier 
Wrey ; the house was built about twenty years ago, — it 
is not large, and the situation is rather low, being near 
the river." There is an encampment of six acres on 
Hembury behind Holne Park, which Mr. Jones refers to 
the Danes. 

Part of the Dart traverses limestone resting on schist, 
with occasional displays of dunstone, and at the Chase 
we meet with crystallised or rhombic felspar.* 

The Bofanistwill derive much pleasure at Holne Chase; 
among the plants found there, are Osmunda regalis ; 
Campanula hederacea; and Sibthorpia europcea ; at New 
bridge we meet with Spergula subidata, and Anthemis 
nobllls, and in the lower road at Buckland, Trichosto- 
mum polyphyllum. 

Oar first day's excursion here terminates, and we re- 
turn to Ashburton for the night. The first places we 
shall visit on the second day will be the village of Buck- 
fastleigh, and the remains of its famed Cistercian 

* Carrington; Notes. 



184 BUCKFASTLEIGII, LITTLE HE5IPST0N, ETC. 

Abbey. They are situated in a picturesque and wooded 
vale surrounded by fertile meadows which are washed by 
the Dart. It is deeply to be regretted that so little re- 
mains of this once splendid establishment. An arched 
entrance, and a few massive walls of the gateway and 
tower are all that mark the existence of the Abbey, and 
(tell it not in Gath) a woollen manufactory has been 
erected in a part of the aneient site. The modern cas- 
tellated house has usurped the place of the former build- 
ing, and the refectory and other relics have been destroyed 
in consequence. The Abbey of Buckfastleigh was foun- 
ded in 1137 in honour of the Virgin Mary, for monks of 
the Cistercian order, by Ethelwerld, son of William 
Pomerai. Above it, the ancient grange is, we believe, 
still preserved. The Church is detached from the vil- 
lage, and is situated on a high rock commanding a view 
of Buckfast Abbey and woods. The Rev. M. Lowndes y 
is patron and incumbent of the vicarage. We now cross 
the river at Dart Bridge over which the Plymouth road 
passes, and proceed along the north-eastern bank of the 
river through one of the most fertile districts in its course. 
It passes throug-h a considerable portion of the parish of 
Staverton, which is celebrated for its productive orchards, 
and gives name to an excellent variety of apples. North 
of Staverton is Broad Hempston, distant about four , 
miles and a half from Ashburton ; and midway between 
it and Totnes. Little Hempston, a village on the Hems 
a stream rising beyond Berry-Pomeroy and falling into 
the Dart. Little Hempston is about a mile and a half 
from Totnes. The Parsonage House, which is now in 
ruins, is one of the best examples of the style of these 
buildings before the Reformation, in Devon. The scenery 
of the River, from Dart Bridge to this place is truly 
beautiful ; the stream gradually loses its wild and rapid 
character ; as it approaches the delightful grounds of 
Dartington it appears to check its speed, and at length 
winding gracefully round the base of the hill below the - 
old Castle of Totnes, it glides softly beneath the arches 
of its handsome bridge. The tourist is now at liberty to 
visit the venerable town of Totnes, and to extend his 
excursion down the southern part of the river, which 



CHUDLEIGH. 185 

has been already described ; or to return through Bridge- 
town-Pomeroy to Torquay. 

We beg to repeat that the excursion we have here laid 
down will be highly interesting to the tourist (particularly 
if performed on foot); — Holne Chase is frequently visited 
in one day by parties from Torquay, who leave in the 
morning and return at night ; but it is impossible in this 
manner to examine a tithe of the beauties in its neigh- 
bourhood. 



VIII. Chudleigh and Ugbrook Park. 

The country around this town is full of interest to the 
antiquary and the tourist. It is situated on the road leading 
from Exeter to Newton Abbot, from which it is distant 
about six miles. The town owes almost all its privileges 
to the Bishops of Exeter, in whose possession, the manor 
remained for many generations. Bishop Stapeldon in 
1309 gained for it a market and an annual fair. The 
present market is held on Saturday ; and the fairs on 
Easter Tuesday; the third Tuesday in June; and on 
the 2nd of October. A short distance out of the town 
are still to be seen the remains of the Episcopal Palace, 
the favourite residence of the Bishops. Ordinations 
were occasionally held there. The manor was alienated 
from the see in 1550 by Bishop Veysey* It is now the 
property of Lord Clifford. The Church was dedicated 
in the thirteenth century,, but the architecture of the 
present fabric, Mr. Lysons says, is of a later date. The 
vicarage is elective ; one of the Northmore family was 
the first vicar so appointed ; he lies there near the Altar, 
where is a flat monument and inscription to his memory. 
The church contains many grave*stones of different 
Devonshire families. 

About a mile south-west of Chudleigh is Ugbrook, the 
seat of Lord Clifford. The distinguishing scenery of 
this place is a beautiful succession of wood, rock, lawn 
and water. The park comprises about seven miles in 
citcumference, and contains about sVx hundred head of 
deer. It is richly wooded and abounds with picturesque 
scenery. The form of the mansion is quadrangular, with 
two fronts and four towers with battlements. The lawn 



186 UGBROOK AND CHUDLEIGH ROCK. 

from the west front slopes to the edge of a spacious lake, 
ahove the northern hank of which is a steep and well- 
wooded eminence called Mount Pleasant. On the top 
is a Danish encampment with its trench. Ugbrook is 
now the residence of Hugh the present and seventh baron. 
In the house are several fine pictures by the old masters; 
and many family portraits, among which are two of the 
Lord Treasurer Clifford, by Sir Peter Lely ; That in | 
the Drawing* Room, representing- him in his Study, was 
engraved for Lodge's Portraits of Eminent Statesmen, 
and will be found in that work. 

Ugbrook has been made the subject of a poem by the 
Rev. Joseph Reeve, the author of a History of the Church; 
2 vols, of Practical discourses, &c. and who was many 
years Chaplain to Lord Clifford's family. 

Major Rennelthe geographer, was born at Chudleigh, 
in 174*2. The late Lord Clifford was distinguished by 
his warm patronage of the arts, and by the personal in^ ' 
terest which he took in every thing connected with lite^ 
rature and philosophy. It is difficult to select any circle 
in the west of England so remarkable for its connexion 
with literary and scientific men and for the highly liberal 
sentiments of its members than that of which Lord Clif-. 
ford was at the head. Chudleigh Rock is an immense 
mass of lime-rock about half a mile from the town, 
and is celebrated for the beautiful marbles which it affords. 
It rises above a deep valley, thickly concealed by wood, 
in the bottom of which is a fine cascade. Midway down 
the rock, is a large cavern, which the country-people 
have made the abode of the Pixies or Devonshire fairies, 
this cave was inhabited by the ancient Britons, and Dr. 
Buckland in digging for organic treasures, discovered 
Pottery, flint-knives, &c. beneath its floor. This will 
be found mentioned in Mr. Northmore's letter to the 
writer at page 12/. Chudleigh Rock commands one of 
most beautiful views in the county, embracing the course 
of the river Teign, the Hennock Hills, Canonteign, 
Bovey Heathfield, Stover, Ingsdon House, the High 
Tor rocks, and the distant outline of Dartmoor. 



An Inspection Table, showing the Distance 
of Torquay from the following places. 



23t«?taure of 

From Miles 

Ashburton 15 

Babbicombe 2 

Barton 3 

Berry Pomeroy 8 

Bishop's Teignton. ... 8 

Brixham 10 

Buckfastleigh 16 

Cbudleigh 13 

Cockington 2 

Coffinsvvell 5 

Combe-in-Teignbead 7 

Compton Castle 5 

Darlington 11 

Dartmouth 12 

Denbury 9 

EXETER 23 

Haccombe 5 



Corcrtiaw. 

From Miles 

High Tor Rocks .... 14 

Holne Chase 19 

Ipplepen 8 

King's Kersvvell 4 

Little Hempston .... 8 

Marldon 5 

Newton 7 

Paignton 4 

Plymouth 33 

St. Mary Church 3 

Stoke-in-Teignhead . . 5 

Teignmouth 8 

Totnes 10 

33w j?ca to 

Plymouth 50 

Portsmouth 95 



[Panorama of J^or/juay, 1832.] 



DART3I00R. 187 

IX. £9<?rtmaar. 
No tourist who is anxious -to investigate the beauties 
of Devon, should omit to visit this wild, desolate, but 
engaging district ; and while the antiquary cannot fail 
to be interested with the relics of early history with which 
it abounds, the casual visitor will be delighted with the 
magnificent scenery of its stupenduous tors. About seven- 
teen miles from Torquay, is the north eastern portion 
of that elevated district, which occupies the centre of 
the county, called Dartmoor. This tract was computed 
by Dr. Maton, to contain 80,000 acres, and by a subse- 
quent report to Parliament, 130,000. The highest point \J<4 £r; 
is Cosson or Cawson Tor, on the Okehampton side, which j 
was estimated by Col. Mudge at 2090 feet, but the tri- ^ZzJ^ i 
gonometrical survey of the Board of Ordnance reduces it 
to 1792 feet, a respectable height for Devon, being about 
one half the elevation of the far-famed Snowdon. High 
or Athur Tor, ( which is the proper appellation ) is with 
the adjoining eminences, nearly 1600 feet above the level 
of the sea ; the mean height of the moor is thought to 
be 1782 feet. The general character of this district is 
wild and uncultivated ; granite is the predominant rock, 
and the staple commodity of the moor. Its masses are- 
grand and imposing, rising with their pointed summits 
from the irregular and broken surface; and from the 
lower cultivated country towards each coast, presenting- 
a misty mountainous horizon of great beauty and extent. 
The moor is supposed to have been once luxuriantly 
wooded ; and of this opinion the ancient charters and 
records relative to that district, as well as the tenures of 
land, seem a strong and sufficient confirmation. But 
Mr. Jones, Mr. Brayley and others consider that it 
never was the habitat of any trees of consequence, and 
that the documents in question refer to the si lesser arbor- 
escent plants forming in their rank native luxuriance, 
a thick cover for the animals." 

Mr. Jones considers that Wistman's wood alone is 
decisive on this point ; but it appears to us quite as un- 
philosophical to affirm this broad position, as it would 
have been, before the discoveries in our caverns, to deny 
that England was formerly frequented by the tiger and 



188 DARTMOOR 

hyaena, because they now belong" to tropical climates. 
" Dartmoor is a country, says Mr. North more, sepa- 
rated as it were from the world ; in very ancient periods 
it was one mass of thick forests, probably of pines and 
oaks, and the whole of Europe was then similarly covered : 
with the wood from these trees, our Celtic ancestors lit 
their Bealtines upon its tors and carnedds ; and the rem- 
nants of their sacrifices afforded a delicious repast to its ' 
wolves, its bears, and its hyaenas. 

" In periods long subsequent, Dartmoor became the 
habitation of a wild, lawless race of Borderers, called the 
Gubbings, of whom Fuller in his English Worthies thus 
speaks, — though he says he hazards the reader's dis- 
pleasure for the same ; and I suppose that to be the rea- 
son for the omission of Mr. Lysons. The etymology of the 
word Gubbings is a matter only of conjecture ; but Fuller ' 
says 'the Gubbings-land is ^Scythia within England, and 
they pure heathens therein. It lyeth nigh Brent-tor in 
the edge of Dartmore. — They are a peculiar of their own 
making, exempt from Bishop, Archdeacon, and all au- 
thority either ecclesiastical or civil ; they live in cotts ' 
rather than houses, like swine, having all in common — 
etc. — Their wealth consisteth in other men's goods, and ' 
they live by stealing the sheep on the moor, and vain it ' 
is for any to search their houses, being a work beneath l 
the pains of a sheriff, and above the power of any consta- 
ble. They hold together like Burrs, offend one, and all 
will revenge his quarrel. But now I am informed that [ 
that they begin to be civilized, and tender their children 
to baptisme.' Thus far honest Fuller hazarded, near 170 | 
years ago. — See p. 248. Carew also speaks of them in { 
his Cornwall ; and Judge Barrington, treating of the 2 '- 
Statutes of Exeter ( 14 Edw. 1. ) thinks that those laws ' 
were made 'to restrain the rapines and violences of the ' 
people called Gnbbins, who lived on Dartmore, being 
the marches ( boundaries ) between Devonshire and 
Cornwall, who continued to be lawless in the time of' 
Queen Elizabeth.' — p. 109. This learned Judge speaks 
again of these Borderers, p. 286, where he is treating ; 
of the horrible outrages and violences of the Borderers 
of Wales, Scotland, and other places, which were con- 



DARTMOOR. 189 

fines of the two countries ; and quotes Hector Boethius 
for the fact of blood-hounds having- been employed in or- 
derto obtain justice. Compare also Froissart 1. 139. (in 
the beautiful edition of Mr. Johnes of Hafod ) where he 
mentions the wild Scots living 1 at their ease in the forest 
of Jed worth. — ^Fuller is perfectly rig-lit in the civilization 
of Dartmoor ; and I can bear testimony to the readiness 
with which its inhabitants give information and assis- 
tance." 

In some reigns this table-land was expressly called a 
forest, as in the time of the Conqueror, and in the cele- 
brated charter of liberties of King John, by which the 
whole of Devon was disaforested, de omnibus quae ad fo- 
restam et ad forestarios pertinent, excepiis duabus mo* 
ris prenominatis, scilicet Dertemora et E.vemora, per 
predictas metas. In other records it was called a chase, 
as in a patent of Edward the II, and another of Edward 
111 to Richard Serjeaux of the custody of Lydford 
Castle, una cum chacea de Dartmore.* We cannot agree 
with Mr. Brayley f that these records refer exclusively 
to the restrictions of the Venville men. The moor is 
known to have abounded with bears, wolves, foxes, red- 
dear, boars, martens, otters, wild bulls, &c. and under 
the forest laws its fastnesses became a nursery for the 
ferocious animals with which Devon was infested. The 
marten is still to be seen -in Lidford Woods. % 

Dartmoor is rich in interest to the Naturalist, Geolo- 
gist, Botanist, and Antiquary. It is a perfect example 
of a primitive country ; and in its most dreary districts, 
we cannot but feci impressed with the majesty of nature 
as we behold the unhewn granite columns which bestrew 
its surface, and the frequent resemblance of its tors to 
the ruins of some massive monument of human art ; 
while the eye rests with pleasure on the purple outline 
of heathy mountains which encircle it with their girdle., 

* Preface to Carrington's Poem, 
f Moore's Hist, of Devon, p. 210, 4to. 
X The Otter is not confined to the Dart, as Mr. Burt imagines, 
it is found on the Plym, and in Torbay on the south coast. It 
frequents the rocks off the eastern promontory of the Bay, and 
occasionally swims on shore; it is not uncommonly seen at night 
in the streets of Torquay. 



100 DARTMOOR. 

In the high central part of the moor, is a large tract of 
boggy land, the morass from which many of our rivers 
spring. The moor-men live hard and toil laboriously ; 
they are however noted for their strength, their skill in 
wrestling, and longevity. They gain their humble liveli- 
hood by the cultivation of the few acres attached to their 
dwellings, and by cutting peat for fuel, and collecting 
sedge for mattresses, which the women carry on their 
backs to Plymouth market. 

It would be beyond the limits of this book to attempt 
a topographical description of the moor ; although such 
a work illustrative of the scenery and comprising the 
numerous Celtic remains, barrows, circles, carnedds, 
parallelitha, pillars and other relics of antiquity, would 
be a valuable addition to the literature of the county. 
It will be enough for us in our contracted space to name 
a few of the prominent points, from which the tourist 
may proceed (with the aid of a proper guide) to inves- 
tigate its attractions. In the first day's excursion it 
will be well to examine High or Athur Tor,f Wide- 
combe and North Bovey, and in the next to advance to 
Moreton Hampstead and Chagford, extending the excur- 
sion as far as the visitor may please, or objects of interest 
arise to engage his attention. High or Athur Tor, (mis- 
named Heytor ) is well entitled to the appellation of the 
Devonshire Olympus. It consists of two insulated obe- 
lisks of granite rising above the summit of a lofty ridge 
of barren downs, and at the distance of 100 feet from 
each other. They have steps cut in the sides to ascend 
the summit, and on the flat surface of the eastern pile is 
an imperfect rock-basin, two feet six in diameter. There 
was once a logan rock on the slope beneath. The downs 
are strewed with rocks and covered with heath and 
whortleberries. They are also known to the botanist 
for the rarity of their mosses and lichens. Athur or 
High Tor is an exceedingly interesting landmark ; and 
in hazy weather when the face of the land is much ob- 

f It is difficult to say why this was called Hey or High Tor, — 
it is not, as some suppose, in the hundred of Heytor but in that 
of Teignbridge ; nor is it entitled to the latter appellative, for 
Rippon Tor, near it, is higher and overlooks it, Athur, (or the 
Solar) Tor is unquestionable' correct. 



DARTMOOR. 191 

scured, is a conspicuous object, either in running from 
the eastward for Torbay, or from the westward for Ply- 
mouth. From its elevation, the clouds of course are 
much attracted, and tourists should select a day for 
visiting it when the sky is clear and settled. The view 
from its cloven peak is singularly magnificent, — inferior 
indeed in extent to that from Three barrow Tor, near 
Ivybridge, but far surpassing it in beauty ; and on all 
accounts deserving the title of the most splendid pano- 
ramic prospect in Devon. The coast on the south is 
seen stretching away towards Portland, with its inter- 
mediate towns and watering-places, beyond which the 
Channel spreads. Immediately beneath the eye a series 
of highly cultivated vales and rich pasture lands extend 
towards the sea, diversified by the barren range of Hal- 
don, the town of Chudleigh with Ugbrook park, the 
grounds of Stover and its granite railway, and the sil- 
very windings of the Teign. On the other hand are re- 
cognised the churches of Moreton and Manaton, the 
Dartmoor prison, and the wild and desolate hills which 
bound that tract on the north. 

The granite quarries, so celebrated among architects, 
and producing a fine rhombohedral variety of that rock, 
are situated round the base of the tor. The mineral called 
Heytorite, by which collectors have so largely pro- 
fited, takes its name from this place, and was discovered 
soon after the opening of the quarries. The granite 
obtained at the works is conveyed down the Stover 
Canal to Teignmouth and there shipped : the canal and 
railway were made by George Templer, Esq. the late 
proprietor of Stover.* 

* The mineral above mentioned was found in a stratified lode o^ 
iron ore, rather micaceous, occasionally magnetic, and much 
associated with Actinolite. This lode occurred in a stratum of 
schist, it was about 30 feet wide, and dipped towards the north. 
As it approached the granite it was much disordered by faults ; at 
this portion, the following minerals were discovered imbedded in 
the ferruginous clay ; — Specular octohedral crystals of Iron, re- 
sembling the beautiful variety of the isle of Elba ; Arseniate and 
Carbonate of Iron, Atiriferous Iron, and Iron Pyrites ; — Among 
the siliceous fossils were Quartz crystals of various forms, in 
isolated clusters j some colourless, some of a yellowish brown or 



192 DARTMOOR. 

" A trackway, running: N. E., says Mr. Rowe. speak- 
ing- of these downs, § terminates at the west pile ; a se- 
cond parallel to the last, ends in a smaller tor, W. of 
the great tor. Another, intersecting the second, has 
for some distance the appearance of an avenue, two hun- 
dred and thirty six yards long, but gradually dwindling 
into a line ; having at its southern end a trackline, at 
right angles. Below Rippon Tor, a trackway forms an 
object so conspicuous, as to be taken at first for a modern 
fence." The stones composing this way are unusually 
large, and near it are two hut circles, one thirty feet in 
diameter containing a dilapidated kistvaen, and the other 
eighteen feet in diameter. The Antiquary must not leave 
the neighbourhood of these Tors without visiting Wide- 
combe in the Moor. The village is situated in one of the 
long narrow valleys which compose this parish, winding 
among the roots of Dartmoor. Tor hill which overlooks 
Widecombe is celebrated for its circular inclosure, and , 
hut circles. But the glory of this romantic village is 
the stately tower of its church. This elegant structure l 
is supposed to be more recent than the church, and to 
have been erected in the loth century. It is built of , 
granite, in the highly ornamented style of pointed archi- 
tecture ; the angles being sustained by double buttresses 
adorned with foliated pinnacles ; and the summit termi- r " 
nating in four handsome pinnacles with crosses. The 
Church is a large and interesting cruciform fabric 
dedicated to St. Pancras ; it was seriously damaged by 
the fall of a ball of fire during an awful storm of thunder 
and lightning, on Sunday, October 1st, 1638. This 

a delicate rose tinge, and others containing water ; — Flint, compact 
or with cavities enclosing quartz crystals ; and Chalcedony, — 
some specimens of which were of a light blue colour, and others 
of an opaque milky white ; its pseudomorphous crystals were 
generally coloured hy oxyde of iron; this is the mineral called 
Heytoriie, hut many scientific men consider its claim to the title 
of a new mineral as exceedingly doubtful. Semi-Opal was also 
obtained in the clay, along with crystals of common Garnet, and . 
a few specimens of Amianthus. 

A correct account of these minerals was published in Trewman's 
Exeter Paper, December 1828, signed 'A Friend to Truth.' 

§ Trans, of the Plymouth Institution. 



DARTMOOR. 193 

event happened while the vicar, the Rev. George Lyde, 
was performing divine service. The ball fell into the 
church among the congregation, oversetting the pews, 
killing four persons, wounding sixty two, and occasion- 
ing damage to the building to the amount of s£300. in. 
the 3rd. volume of the Harleian Miscellany, 211, is a 
full account of the catastrophe. 

In this neighbourhood is Believer Tor, and the ancient 
Kleppa Bridge, which, at the request of Mr. North- 
more on the Bench, the Magistrates saved from destruct- 
ion in July 1831. 

We may now proceed to Manaton, and visit in our 
way Beckey Fall, about a mile S. E. of Manaton. 

" The waterfall, says Mr. Jones, is in the midst of 
a wood, and is formed by the river Beckey, a small 
stream which rushes over a bed of rocks. The scenery 
around the Fall is extremely beautiful, the trees are a 
striking contrast to the barren downs and shapeless tors 
inclosing the valley, and the deep murmurs of the cata- 
ract are in strict unison with the other features of the 
scene. The rocks over which the water falls are large ; 
at the principal fall the water rushes over a wall of rocks, 
and then descends for a considerable way through the rug- 
ged channel and is finally concealed by the woods. The 
descent to the banks of the river are steep, the woods 
are thick, and the masses of rock are covered with a 
great variety of mosses and lichens. Close to the Fall 
is a neat cottage, and further down is a cavern which 
extends for a short way into the rocks. t Manaton is 
an open village, situated on the high ground behind the 
range of tors. On the Down above the village, is the 
Whooping llock, once a Logan Stone, and on the oppo- 
site hills is Bowerman's Nose, a pile of rocks resembling 
at a distance the profile of the human countenance, and 
supposed to be a Rock Idol. It stands says Mr. Jones, 
the undisputed Deity of the surrounding scene. Mana- 
ton Church was damaged by lightning in 1779. About 
a furlong S. E. of the church is an elliptical inclosure 
of erect stones which Col. Hamilton Smith thinks gave 

t Observations on Moreton Hampstead, &c. By the Rev. J. P, 

Joues, 



104 



DARTMOOR, 



ii ame to the village of Manaton, — Maen-y-dun, the in* 
closure of erect stones. Within this parish and at its junc- 
tion with North Bovey is the celebrated British Town of l 
Grimspound. This is the most interesting- relic of the 
kind with which we are acquainted. It is a perfect spe- 
cimen of a town constructed as a permanent settlement, 
and so protected by a wall or mound of massive blocks of 
moorstone, as to possess the means of a safe and pro- 
tracted defence against the incursions of enemies. This 
wall incloses an area of four acres, the diameter of which 
is about 400 feet. It is supposed to have been originally 
1 2 feet in height, although now not more than half that 
number. There are two entrances, nearly north and 
south, with evident marks of a pavement ; within this 
wall are a spring of water, and numerous vestiges of \ 
rude houses, the remains perhaps of the most venerable 
town in the island. The situation of Grimspound, near 
the mines and stream-works on the borders and the great 
trackways which there traverse the moor, .supports the 
Opinion that it was not only a settlement but a place of \ 
trade, and to this circumstance may probably be attributed " 
its alteration from an earthy station to a walled town. On " 
the right between Manaton and Bovey is Lustlelgh. This '! 
village is situated in a sequestered valley, amidst a flour- 'I 
ishing plantation of trees. The greatest curiosity of the " ; 
place is the inscribed stone at the threshold of the church, ' 
with letters peculiarly resembling certain characters of 
the Greek Alphabet. Mr. Morier mentions an inscrip- 
tion containing similar letters at Nakshi Rustam, near 1 
Persepolis in Persia.* It is not impossible that it was ! 
a grave stone ; burials in former times were not infre- 
quent in church porches ; and the antiquary will not ? 
forget that the Druids were acquainted with the Greek ' 
language. The "Bishop's Stone" near the church is a 
large block of granite, on which Bishop Grandisson is I 
said to have dined when he passed through Lustleigh. [ 
He may probably have preached there also, as it has the 
appearance of being the pedestal of a cross. Lustleigh r 
Cleve is the most romantic spot in the county ; it is a f 
long and secluded valley, the heights on one side being \ 
* See his Travels in Persia. 



DARTMOOR. 195 

wild and rocky, and on the other richly wooded. The 
Bovey foams in the bottom of the vale amidst rude mas- 
ses of rock, at one place flowing through a subterranean 
passage of several hundred feet. It is not easy to 
ascend the rocky summit of the Cleve, but the great 
beauty of the prospect will repay the trouble- There is a 
small logan stone on the top. The country around these 
places is compared by military men to the lower Pyrenuees. 
The river Bovey gives its name to the celebrated Heath- 
field, so well known for its Bovey coal. A large deposit of 
Tourmaline and Apatite was also discovered a few 
years ago at Woolleigh, near Bovey Tracey. In the 
bed of the Bovey, a streaked variety of Quartz resem- 
bling the Tabriz marble of Persia was observed by De 
Lu0. The Botanist will be pleased to find Genista Tinc- 
toria on the Heathfield. We now proceed to North 
Bovey, and as that portion of the moor which comes 
within the limits of this work here ceases, we can only 
mention briefly the future route of the tourist, and the 
principal points which he should visit. It is impossible 
to lay down any rules for investigating Dartmoor, there 
is so much to admire and to explore, that more will de- 
pend on the taste of the visitor than on the directions of 
any guide. From Bovey it may be well to proceed to 
Chagford, and thence set out to examine the Drew- 
steignton Logan Rock and Cromlech, Fingle Bridge, and 
Cawson hill.f The antiquary here treads on holy ground, 
and will recognise with delight the numerous relics 
of Druidical worship with which this district abounds. 
This Cromlech is the only perfect one in Devon. Pres- 
tonbury, Cranbrook and Wooston Camps near this, de- 
fended the great central line of road which communicated 
with the Roman Stations of Exeter and Stratton. Cran- 
mere Pool, Lydford Castle, and its fall, ought next to be 
visited, and the traveller may return by South Brent 
Tor. Cranmere Pool lies on the top of a hill never 
known to be dry, and full of morass and quaking bogs. 
From this morass, and not from the pool as many sup- 
pose, some of the moorland rivers rise. It is very dim- 

f Cawson is the highest land in Devon, being 2,090 feet above 
the sea. — Caw-Son, Solis doinus. 



196 



DARTMOOR. 



cult to find it. Lydford Castle is about half way be- 
tween Okehampton and Tavistock ; it was one of the 
four minting-towns of Devon, in the Anglo-Saxon Era; 
and is said to have been visited by Julius Caesar, soon af- 
ter his invasion. It is now a ragged miserable village, 
and the keep alone remains of its ancient and once for- 
midable castle. The dungeon was dark and horrible, 
and its law was so severe as to give rise to the saying 
that " in the morn they hang and draw, and sit in judg- 
ment after." The romantic bridge over the Lyd, and 
the gloomy fail near it, must engage the attention of 
every traveller. North Brent Tor is so high as to be a 
landmark for Plymouth Sound ; it is conical, and is 
thought to be an extinct volcano. There is a church on the 
summit 37 feet long, said to be a votive chapel. South 
Brent Tor, near Ashburton, has some large stones on its 
summit, which have been ascribed to the Druids, and 
in later times have been used as a beacon. A loadstone 
sixty pounds weight is mentioned in the Phil. Trans, vol. 
v. as having been discovered in the surrounding fields. 
Smaller specimens, says Mr. Burt, the annotator on 
Carrington's Poem have recently occurred with garnets 
at Ashburton. We now proceed to Prince Town, and 
visit the Prison 

Where England held 
Within her victor hand the vanquish'd foe. 

This melancholy pile was erected during the late war 
and frequently contained 10,000 prisoners. The situ- 
ation is bleak, and the neighbourhood abounds with bogs. 
The interior is well arranged for the purpose it was in- 
tended for, but we hope that it may long remain a "silent 
pile" so far as that purpose is concerned. Over the gate- 
way is the inscription Parcere Subjectis ! The little vil- 
lage called Prince Town, has a church, inn, and par- 
sonage house. Tor Royal , near it, is the seat of Sir Thomas 
Tyrrwhit. About two miles south west of the prison, is 
Clacywell Pool, which has banned all attempts to find 
bottom, although it has been sounded 90 fathoms. Fish 
placed in it are said to have been never seen afterwards. It 
is supposed to be subject to periodical falls, and to be either 
the crater of an extinct volcano, or the shaft of an ancient 



DARTMOOR. 197 

mine. The circumference of the pool is 305 yards. f 
Two Bridges is not far from Prince Town. The Inn 
was built by the celebrated Judge Buller. Great Mis- 
tor is a conspicuous object in this neighbourhood ; it has 
a magnificent rock basin, three feet in diameter, with a 
perfect) lip; and not far from it is Merivale Bridge and 
its ancient British village. It consists of a pair of ave- 
nues, or parallelitha, as Col. Hamilton Smith justly calls 
them, 105 feet apart, the longest 1143 feet, and the 
other 792. They run east and west, and each has its 
sacred circle ; there are also a prostrate cromlech, and a 
rock-pillar or Maen. Crockern Tor must now be visited 
and will be regarded with pleasure by the antiquary as a 
memorial of the Witena-gemot or Saxon parliament. Its 
only interest at present is derived from its being the 
place where the Stannary courts or parliaments were 
held in the open air, and from its apt elucidation of Saxon 
manners. Wistman's Wood is near it, and is the only 
relic of this most ancient forest. It is a common saying 
that we have there "a hundred trees a hundred feet high/' 
The venerable trees are all oaks, of the most stunted 
growth, none of them exceeding twelve feet in height, 
but their circumference is often ten feet, and their foli- 
age flourishing and hardy. Their twisted branches are 
entangled with whortle, mosses, brambles and parasiti- 
cal plants. This dwarf forest is one of the most interest- 
ing relics of antiquity in the island. 

From this place we may either proceed along the course 
of the Dart, or follow the high road to Ashburton, and 
from that place return to Torquay. We must however, 
before we conclude, beg to make some observations on 
the prevailing antiquities of the tract we have just de- 
scribed. Dartmoor is literally a treasury of Celtic re- 
mains. Here we have the holy circles single and con- 
centric, within whose sacred area the Druidical priest- 
hood celebrated their mysteries under the canopy of 
heaven ; here the parallelitha for the procession of the 
consecrated boat; here the massive cromlechs on which the 
sacrifices of the altar were performed and beneath which 
the Druid reposed in death ; here the logan stones which 
t Notes to Carrington's Dartmoor. 



198 



DARTMOOR 



nature had formed, as it were, to fulfil the aim of super- 
stition ; here the rocky masses, idols as they have been 
termed, if such obtained a place in Druidical mythology; 
here the rock-basins shaped by the tool, to collect the 
lustral waters on the highest tors, pure and unpolluted 
by earthly contact*, here the monumental column or 
maen of unwrought granite ; and the Cairn and Barrow 
beneath which many a warrior perhaps 'sleeps his last 
sleep,' and from whose elevated summits the beacon fires 
once flashed over the wild tract around them ; here the 
kistvaen or sarcophagus ; here the British towns with 
their cyclopsean inclosures : here the ancient trackways, 
and division dykes, penetrating the bogs, fording the 
rivers, ascending the highest tors, and proving to every 
mind that our Celtic ancestors, although working with 
the rudest materials made the whole of this vast table- 
land subservient to their power. They had operatives 
to work, and superiors to direct ; and over all their sys- 
tem of economy, a powerful priesthood swayed the em- 
blems of their mighty influence, controlling their actions 
hy a nod; and maintaining, even in this barren, desolate, 
and cheerless wild, the arcana of a worship which dis- 
dained to approach the Creator but under the pure ex- 
panse of heaven. 

The antiquities and natural history of the moor have 
been ably illustrated by Mr. Northmore, the Rev. J. 
P. Jones, the Rev. J. H. Mason, Dr. Leach, Miss 
Dixon, Mr. Kingston of Ilsington, Mr. T. H. Williams, 
the late Mr. Burt, &c; and more recently by Mr. Henry 
Woollcombe, Col. Hamilton Smith, Mr. John Pri- 
deaux, and the Rev. Samuel Rowe ; distinguished mem- 
bers of the Plymouth Institution, and whose united re- 

* Dr. Macculloch's hypothesis that all rock basins were formed 
by atmospheric agency or natural causes is ridiculous. They 
frequently have the mark of the tool, and communicate with each 
other : Col. Hamilton Smith, an antiquary of high accomplish- 
ments, in a letter with which he has favoured us, says, " the in- 
ference that they all are the simple results of atmospheric aetion 
upon the close grained granite, is as much to the purpose as if they 
asserted that all the Church Fonts were excavated by means of the 
atmosphere alone. There are on Dartmoor several that cannot 
be referred to this cause, and in France I have observed several 
retaining the marks of the tool." 



DARTMOOR 199 

searches are recorded in the Transactions of that Society. 
It has also been celebrated in the beautiful Poems of Mrs. 
Hemans, the late Mr. Carrington, Mr. Howard, and 
Mr. Henry Sewell Stokes of Tavistock; and many of 
its fine legends have received ample honours from the 
powerful and accomplished pen of Mrs. Bray. Dr. Leach 
has elucidated its entomology, etc. Mr. Jones and Mr. 
Kingston its Botany; and Dr. Tucker of Ashburton, 
and Dr. Moore of Plymouth its ornithology. The tourist 
will do well to peruse the notes to Carrington's Poem, 
and to obtain Mr. Jones's observations on Moreton- 
hampstead, and Mr. Rowe's admirable paper in the 
Transactions just alluded to : they will materially assist 
his inquiries, and enable him to make an excursion to 
Dartmoor a source of great personal pleasure and ad- 
vantage. 

The following lines are from Mrs. HEMANs'sPoem ; 

Yes ! let the waste lift up th' exulting voice, 

Let the far echoing solitudes rejoice ! 

And thou, lone moor, where no blythe reaper'* »ong 

E'er lightly spad the summer hours along ; 

Bid the wild rivers from each mountain source, 

Rushing in jo^, make music in their course. 

Thou, whose few records of existence mark 

The scene of barb'rous rites in ages dark, 

And of some nameless combat : Hope's bright eye 

Beams o'er thee in the light of prophesy ! 

Yet shall thou smile, by busy culture dress'd. 

And the rich harvest wave upon thy breast. 

Thee too that hour shall bless, the balmy close 

Of labour's day, the herald of repose, 

Which gathers hearts in peace. 



2C0 ANTIQUITIES. 

PART V. 
Antiquities, Parochial History, etc, 



Having already noticed the grand field of British anti- 
quities in the preceding article on Dartmoor, it will be 
necessary in this place to proceed to the consideration of 
the few relics we possess of Roman power. Destitute how- 
ever, as South Devon is in the vestiges of the former era, 
there are many parts of our coast which bear evidence of 
of the navigation of these seas long before the period of the 
Roman invasion, and of the commerce maintained by the 
Phcenicians with the Danmonian tribes. Unlike the Roman 
remains, these have defied the arm of human spoliation. 
Wherever the Phcenicians penetrated, it formed a part 
of their policy to establish colonies, or to leave traces of 
their intercourse in the terms they conferred on the head- 
lands they passed, or the shores they visited. Hence in 
Devonshire and Cornwall, but more particularly in the 
latter, the names of many towns and promontories indi- 
cate such an origin, and even the ancient British language 
itself became impregnated with words of Greek extrac- 
tion. Thus, in honour of the favourite deity of the 
Phcenicians, Hartland Point was called Herculis Promon- 
torium, and Lundy Island, [nsula Herculea. The Land's 
End was termed Antivestceum ; the Lizard, erbium ; 
and the Ram Head Criu jietopon, or the RairCs Fore- 
head, the name they conferred on the Southern point of 
the Tauric Chersonese, and on the western promontory 
of Crete. Berry Bead was unquestionably their Hellenis 
Promontorium. Richard of Cirencester expressly calls 
it by that name,* and the celebrated Antiquary, Dr. 
Stukely, coincides with him. The term, however, has 
been applied to the Start point, and to the Land's End 
in Cornwall: — the latter conjecture is certainly erroneous; 

§ He mentions it thus — "Helenum prom.Helenis Cornabiorum, 
Berry Point, Devonshire." 



ANTIQUITIES. 201 

and with respect to the former. Mr. Northmore in a let- 
ter to the writer, states his belief that the term " Start 
point" is the remnant or rather imitation of the Saxon 
Penwith Steort, or the jutting land of the hundred of 
Penwith, which itself means the ' promontory to the 
left' (or west.) That the Berry Head was the Hellenis 
Promontorium is rendered more probable by the discovery 
of a Phoenician coin at Teignmouth, which Mr. Polwhele 
mentions in his historical Views, A. 1793 ; but it is to 
be regretted that he has given no particulars of so great 
a treasure. 

We now approach a subject rich in interest of a high 
order, namely, the British and Roman Roads || and Sta- 
tions between the Dart and Teign. The principal British 
Road (which the Romans afterwards converted to their 
own use) was the Ikeneld Way, passing through the 
whole length of the county, from the vicinity of Axmin- 
ster to the first ford on the Tamar. It left Exeter at 
the West Gate, passing over the former Estuary of the 
Exe where the old bridge stood, thence over Alphington- 
causeway. by Kenford, and over Haldon, leaving the 
Camp at Ugbrook-park on the right ; it then proceeded 
to Sandy-gate, where it diverged from the present turn- 
pike road, and passing by King's Teignton crossed the 
Teign below Newton Abbot, by a ford which, the bishop 
of Cloyne remarks, still retains the name of Jlacknield- 
way, or Hackney, as we believe it is now called. It 
then proceeded over Ford common in a direct line by 
Wolborough, Abbot's Kerswell, and Ipplepen,| to the 
British town of Totnes, bending however to the east in 
order to enter it ; and passing from thence to the first 
ford on the Tamar, so as to keep up a communication 
with the great marts of trade on the Cornish coast. This 
road was certainly in existence long before the invasion 
of the Romans, and was converted by those conquerors to 
their own purpose by raising its crest ; their road is still 
traceable in a tolerably perfect line along the whole 

|| For the antiquities in the Caves of Kent's Hole, Chudleigh, 
&c. see the article on -Kent's Cavern. 

X A copper celt was found in 1820 at this place, in a wood be- 
longing to Geo. Drake, Esq. 



202 ANTIQUITIES. 

course of the British Ikeneld; and maybe followed from 
Totnes through Brent, and Ridgeway (which retains its 
ancient name) to St. Budeaux, where it crossed the 
ferry at the station of Tamara. After passing the ford 
of the Teign, this Roman road passed between the two 
Camps of Milber down and Denbury, which formed the 
two chief military stations to protect it.| It runs there- 
fore within six miles from Torquay, in a western line. 
On "Wol borough downs are traces of a road pointing to- 
wards Dartmouth, or perhaps to Stan borough in the 
parish of Morleigh. Totnes was one of the grand posts 
of Devon, both from its high traditional antiquity and its 
important situation on the Dart. It was called by the 
Romans the Statio ad Durium, (at the Water. Celt.) 
Denbury is supposed to be the Devianisso of Ravennas ; 
Stanborough to be Stone ; and Dartmouth-Clifton-Ard- 
ness by some antiquaries to be the Roman Ardea. These 
however are by no means free from suspicion, although 
Denbury is called Devenesbury in Domesday, to say 
nothing of its Camps. Torbay was not neglected by the 
Romans, nor was it considered a place of mean impor- 
tance, if we may form an opinion from the relics which 
are before us. The neighbourhood of Brixham was 
much frequented by these invaders ; Vespasian indeed is 
said to have landed here when he visited Britain ; and a 
short time since, a labourer digging in a mound of earth 
on Furzeham common at the north side of Lower Brix- 
ham, discovered five coins, asses, of the reign of the 
1st Claudius, in a state of excellent preservation, — they 
are now in the possession of Col. Seale of] Mount Boone, 
the lord of that part of the manor. There was formerly 
a fine Roman rampart running across Berry-Head, from 
sea to sea, and cutting off about three acres of the Head- 
land, which was destroyed about forty years ago when the 
present fortifications were erected there. This rampart 
was about eighteen feet high, and Gen. Mercer who was 
employed on the works considered the old foss a decided 

X Communicated in part by Mr. Northmore to the Bishop of 
Clovne aod to the writer ; we are also indebted to the Bishop's 
paper on the subject in Lysons ; to the Rev. H. F. Lyte ; to Arch- 
deacon Froude, and other sources. 



ANTIQUITIES. 203 

relic of Roman art. Numerous other Roman lines are 
to be found on the hills in the neighbourhood, all of 
them more or less mutilated or defaced. A small fort, 
misnamed Danish, directly over the Ash-hole cave, has 
given place to a modern horse-shoe battery ; and the 
only Roman encampment in the neighbourhood, in a 
tolerable state of preservation, is found in Carte wood in 
the western part of the parish, about a mile from the 
Dart. But * etiam pereunt ruinse,' even this is daily 
passing away, and under the farmer's mattock and plough 
will soon lose every trace of its existence. Ash-hole 
as we have mentioned in our account of Brixham, was 
investigated a few years ago by the Rev. H. F. Lyte, 
whose researches established the important fact that it 
was the burying place of the Roman garrison. In 1730, 
Mr. Lysons says, some coins were found in the camp on 
the Berry ; and among others a Claudius with the figure 
of victory on the reverse. On the high ground above 
Berry Pomeroy, are also lines of circumvallation, en- 
closing originally an area of some extent. At Ansty's 
Cove near Torquay and at the south-western extremity 
of Babbicombe downs, many lines are visible. The 
principal encampment appears to have been an oblong 
square, and a rude high pile of limestones from the 
neighbouring quarries, cutting off the extremity of the 
headland, seems to have served as a wall of protection. 
We are informed by the Rev. J. M' Enery that he found 
a Trajan in the Cavern, in the rocks below these downs, 
while searching for organic treasures ; in the present 
year we commenced digging on several portions of the 
lines, but were unsuccessful in making any new dis- 
coveries. The walls were evidently built of loose lime- 
stones; and the whole surface of the adjoining downs 
is traversed by the lines, while others point inland, and 
can be traced no further. The camp appears to have 
been about seven acres, and was undoubtedly an explo- 
ratory station. A few months ago, some labourers work- 
ing in the valley at the foot of this common, dug out a 
circular mass of granite, which from its being perforated, 
they imagined to have been the wheel of some vehicle. 
We immediately proceeded to examine it, and are pleased 



204 ANTIQUITIES. 

to state that this interesting 1 relic is now safe and perfect. 
It is the upper half of a granite quern, by no means 
badly worked, and in every respect such as the hand- 
Grist-mills used at these ancient stations. Nothing- else 
of antiquarian interest was discovered. These downs, 
we find, were cultivated about half a century ago, and 
have for generations been called WalVs Hill. They are 
in fact a continuation of Warberry hill, the high ground 
behind Torquay, and commanding the whole of the Bay. 
Ansty's Cove down was therefore most appropriately 
termed WalVs-hill which is a mere translation or modus 
enunciandi ; and the following passage from Camden 
which has been sent to us by Mr. Northmore, affords a 
curious confirmation of this etymology. It refers to the 
history of old Dorchester, in Oxfordshire, which was 
full of Roman and other antiquities ; Camden's words 
are these, " on the east is the village of WAR-borough, 
q. d, WAjj-borough. The walls run between Overey, etc." 
Camden's Britannia, 308. It has been supposed that 
there is a Barrow on the western point of the Torquay 
Warberry : — in order to decide this interesting question 
we have recently dug there, and although there are 
appearances which would, at first sight, give an idea of 
a tumulus, we are satisfied that the present circular 
mound arises from the natural formation of the hill, nor 
is any part of it artificial. It has been repeatedly ploughed 
without effecting any change in its stinted herbage, but 
enough remains to attract the attention of the passenger; 
and we hope it may long continue to do so, for the sake 
of the beautiful panoramic scenery which it commands. 
Although we discovered no barrow here, we were pleased 
to find the etymology of the hill confirmed by the lines 
of circumvallation in the adjoining field. This field has 
been cultivated, but the equidistant piles of stones (col- 
lected without doubt from the walls) distinctly point out 
the course of the encampment, and within the last thirty 
years several liues were visible, running across the neigh- 
bouring downs and communicating perhaps with the 
next station. From this place the whole of the inland 
country is commanded as far as High Tor, along with 
the stations of Berry Head and Ansty's Cove. The 



ANTIQUITIES. 205 

rocky mound of the Warberry would have served for a 
magnificent beacon, and might have been so employed. 
This Warberry hill, and the Warberry or Warborough on 

jl the opposite shores at Galmpton, all refer to the camps. 

- Berry Head, Berry Pomeroy, Elberry, WooMorough, 
&c. come under the same rule, for all these words are 
indicative of deep antiquity. It is worthy of remem- 
brance in antiquarian researches that the terms 
borough, bury, or berry, attached to, or forming 
any part or termination of the names of places, prove 
the existence of some exploratory station or small work 
of the Roman period ; as, in like manner, the words 
foss and street point out the course of the Roman roads, 
and the latter in particular the paved military causeways 
for which that people were remarkable. Caster, cester, 
&c, being also imitations of the Latin original, distinctly 
mark the place as having been a permanent and im- 
portant Roman station. The word barrow is equally 
decisive, for on the high eminences above the lines of 
road, it was the custom of that nation to form their 
tumuli or barrows ; and these are generally in sight of 
each other, and connected either with the chief way or 
inferior camps. Several Roman coins have been found 
in the tumuli on Haldon, and others of copper of the 
lower empire on Whiddon Down, near the grand central 
line which intersects this county. 

The rivers Dart and Teign afforded the means of ready 
communication with the great Southern road : Totnes, 
by reason of the tin-trade of the borders and the numerous 
stream-works whose produce was brought down the river, 
was undoubtedly a place of considerable consequence 
before the time of the Romans, and the subsequent 
establishment of their station there is a proof that they 
did not fail to foresee its advantages in respect to their 
naval interests. The Teign appears to have been an 
estuary, as far as, or beyond Teignbridge, which was 
another Roman work ; and the chain of camps and 
stations around Torbay give additional testimony of the 
very early navigation of the seas within the Berry. In 
1815 when the old Teignbridge of two arches was taken 
down and rebuilt, the remains of a former bridge of red 

T 



206 ANTIQUITIES. 

sandstone, constructed with great care and excellent 
masonry, were discovered. The two first arches had 
been destroyed to build the one already mentioned, the 
the third made way for the platform of the present 
structure, and the fourth and fifth still remain entire, 
buried under the road. On sinking: below the red sand- 
stone bridge, the timbers of an ancient wooden bridge 
were found ; and, underneath, the piers of a fourth of 
fine white free-stone, ashler laid. Mr. Taylor, who 
communicated these discoveries to the Society of Anti- 
quaries, considers the white stone bridge to have been a 
Roman work ; the wooden bridge to be as old as the 
Conquest ; the next of red sandstone to have been built 
in the thirteenth century ; and the last (destroyed in 
1815) in the sixteenth century. It is therefore evident 
that since the erection of the first bridge, an immense 
accumulation of soil has taken place, and that many 
hundred acres of the (then) estuary, which every tide 
covered, has been converted into pasture lands.* Another 
discovery was made in forming the temporary channel 
while the bed of the river was pumped dry. Two ancient 
roads, the lowest of which was paved, and both having 
parapet walls, were laid open, along with the crown of 
an arch ten feet below the road. These facts are highly 
interesting when connected with the passage of the great 
Roman road at this part of the marsh. 

We have already mentioned the camps on Denbury and 
Milber Downs, and in Ugbrook Park. The former is 
an oval of nearly ten acres; the area containing nine acres, 
one rood, and one perch. On the South and East is a 
double fosse of considerable depth. It commands an 
uninterrupted view of the country for six or seven miles 
in every direction ; and twenty-two parish churches are 
visible from ifc.f The name of Denbury which some 
refer to the Danes has clearly no connexion with that 
people. Mil her Down encampment is on the declivity 
of the hiH, and is elliptical, with a triple ditch ; it 
contains about nineteen aeies,§ the inner lines enclosing 

* See an Account of these discoveries in the Archceoloiria, 
Vol. xix. by P. J. Taylor Esq. 

t Ibid. : Ibid. 



ANTIQUITIES. 207 

an area of about three. It is a curious and -interesting 1 
work ; the greater part of the ground is planted, and 
the old turnpike road to Torquay passes through it. 
William the Third stationed his Park of Artillery in the 
encampment during his sojourn at Ford, in 1688. The 
camp in Ugbrook Park is an irregular oval containing 
about six acres, exclusive of the imperfect lines. Castle- 
field, at Highweek, about half-a-mile south-vve&t of 
Teignbridge, was another Roman station : " the castle, 
says Mr. Taylor, must have been a very insignificant 
building;" the .area is thought to have contained one-eighth 
of an acre. Ugbrook camp is said to be Danish, it has 
also been with more probability termed a British work, 
and its situation above the Ikeneld-way tends to confirm 
this opinion. Hembury Castle behind Holne Park, is 
an earthwork enclosing at least six acres, and having, 
Mr. Lysons says, a prcetormm 44 feet by 17, at the 
North end. On the hills West of Ashburton, and on the 
Downs, are the remains of several similar entrenchments. 
Mr. Jones considers ail the camps in the neighbourhood 
of Ashburton completely Danish, both in form and 
in construction. It is not always easy to discriminate 
between the mutilated encampments of the Danes and 
Romans ; — the form is frequently not decisive, for 
although the temporary stations of the latter people were 
geneialiy square, it was not unusual for them to neglect 
this rule, and adapt their works to the natural formation 
of the ground. It is therefore more rational to refer the 
camps bordering on the Roman lines, to that nation ; 
particularly as the Danish invasions were too sudden and 
piratical to allow them time to erect encampments of 
any magnitude. Many of the Roman stations, however, 
were undoubtedly formed originally by the Britons, and 
subsequently converted by their conquerors to their own 
purposes of defence. With these scanty remains, our anti- 
quities of this era terminate: — a few camps retaining 
nothing but their mere outlines and a few imperfect line's 
of road constitute the sum of our present knowledge ; but 
we are about to proceed to the consideration of a period 
more abundant in its relics, more relieved by the light 
of history, and more distinguished by those sacred 



208 ANTIQUITIES. 

associations which have thrown aside the harass of war 
and plunder for the holy truths of religion. We shall 
" invite the reader to shed the tear of sympathy over 
departed greatness, and to walk over the mouldering 
ruins of those venerable edifices — once the seats of 
literature and religious virtue, the repositories of art, the 
monuments of the piety and skill of our Catholic fore- 
fathers, the sanctuaries of hospitality, and the pride and 
ornament of this beautiful country."* 

We shall first notice the Monastery of Tor, and then 
consider the Ecclesiastical and other Antiquities of each 
parish within our district, as they occur in the preceding 
pages, along with the manorial history. For the first 
part of the following article on Tor Abbey we are 
indebted to the Rev. George Oliver, of Exeter, the 
indefatigable and distinguished labourer in the field of 
Ecclesiastical Antiquities. 

Cor gfcto, 

" This Norbertinef Monastery, dedicated to the hon- 
our of the Holy Saviour, was richly founded by William 
Lord Brewer, A. D. 1196. It was colonized from Wel- 
beck House in Nottinghamshire, the Abbots of which 
were specially licensed by the Holy See to preside at the 
elections of its superiors, and to present the persons 
elected to the Diocesan for confirmation in their office. 
Of all the Monasteries of this order in England, Tor 
Abbey was unquestionably the best endowed. In proof 
of this we have but to turn to the Foundation Deeds in 
Dugdale's Monasticon, where we find grants of the Ma- 

* See the Historic Collections relating to the Monastaries in 
Devon, by the Rev. George Oliver. 

f St. Norbert erected his first Monastery of Canons Regular 
of the Rule of St. Augustine, about the year 1120, in a lonesome 
valley called Premontre, in the diocese of Laon. This mother 
house gave name to the order itself. Perhaps the best history of 
it is, Dom le Paige's " Bibliotheca Premonstratensis Ordinis." 
Folio, Paris, 1633. pp. 1082. In England there were thirty*two 
Norbertine houses, with a rental at the dissolution of ,£4807. 14. 1. 
per annum. The yearly revenues of Tor Abbey were rated at 
£396. 0. 11. 



-ANTIQUITIES 209 

nors and Churches of Torre and Woolborough, Grindle 
Estate in Woodbury Parish, the Fishery of Torbay, the 
Churches of Bradvvorthy, Pancraswike and North Shil- 
ling-ford, the lands of Coleton and Usam, and the right 
of common on Dartmoor. Kingswear was added by 
Walter de Vascy : Robert Viscount de Courtenay, on 
26th July 1242, granted also in perpetuum to Torrft 
Abbey the Prebend of Ashclyst, attached to St. Mary's 
Chapel within the Castle of Exeter. The ancient church 
was richly furnished with cloth of gold, with copes and 
other ecclesiastical ornaments, as appears from a letter 
of Bishop Grandisson, fol. 56, vol. i. of his register, 
* paunis aureis et capis'. 
We have met with the following Abbots of Tor : — 

I. Adam, He was a canon of Wei beck, and with six 
more of his brethren arrived at Tor on the 25th March, 
1196. After governing this infant Establishment for 
about three years and a half, he retired to Newhus in 
Lincolnshire, the Parent house of the order in England. 

II. Simon appears as Abbot iu an agreement (dated 
Tuesday before Easter, Anno 35 Henrici III,) with 
Reginald deMohun, the Lord of Dunster, whose father 
had married Alice the fourth daughter of his guardian, 
William Lord Brewer, the Founder above mentioned. 
This nobleman had \\U courthouse at Tor, " Curia sua 
de Thorre," which was situated behind the east end of 
the Parish Church there : and with the consent of 
Abbot Simon erected a domestic chapel in his maKsion ; 
here this religious nobleman died most piously on Sun- 
day 20th January, 1257, &s we learn from the register of 
Newenham Abbey. 

[Robert, we are informed by Mr. Oliver, also appears 
as the second Abbot. Mr. Oliver finds him as a Witness 
to a Covenant between the Dean and Chapter of Exeter 
and the Abbot and Convent of Buekfastleigh, made at 
Exeter on the 29th June, 1228. O. B.] 

III. Brian us confirmed Abbot by Bishop Brones- 
combe, on Whitsunday, 1264. 

IV. Richard admitted by the same Bishop, on 
Ascension-day, 12/0. 

V. Simon de Ply.mpton confirmed by Bishop 
Grandisson, 7*h September, 1330. 



210 ANTIQUITIES 

VI. John admitted by the same Bishop, 21st of 
May, 1349. 

VII. John Cras succeeded, 6th December, 1351.* 

VIII. Richard. 

IX. John Berkedene, In fol. 31. vol. i. Reg. 
Brantyngham, is copied this Abbot's deed, dated from 
the chapter-house at Tor Abbey, October, 1372, by 
which he binds himself and succeeding Abbots to provide 
a Priest to officiate daily in the new chapel (of the Holy 
Trinity) within the Town of Clyfton Dertemuth, which 
had just been dedicated by Bishop Brantyngham. Should 
divine service be omitted by fault of the Abbot, then the 
tithes of Tunstall Church appropriated to the Abbey, 
were to be under sequestration until 100 shillings "were 
paid for each omission to the mayor and commonalty of 
Dartmouth. From No. 41, Inquisitiones ad quod 
damnum Edward III. it seems that the space allotted for 
this chapel was one acre. 

X. Williaiai Norton confirmed Abbot 27th July, 
1382 : This Abbot exhibited to Bishop Brantyngham 
the Bull of Martin IV. in favour of his monastery. — 
Notwithstanding the Abbot's irreproachable life and 
manners, some malicious person spread a rumour tint 
he had beheaded one of the canons of Torre, called 
Simon Hastings. f When the report reached his ears, 
he was distressed beyond measure, and earnestly courted 
investigation. Bishop Brantyngham on the 14th August 
1390, pronounced the accusation to be a falsehood of 
the blackest dye — declares that the above-mentioned 
canon was alive and well — bears the most unequivocal 
testimony to the Abbot's blameless character, and issues 
the sentence of excommunication against his defamers, 
vol, 1. Reg. folio 211. In this Abbot's time, viz. 24th 
July, 1405, Tunstall Vicarage was taxed by Bishop 
Stafford, and was signed with the chapter seal of Tor 
3 days later. 

XI. Matthew Yerde or Yard succeeded 19th 
July, 1412, and was shortly after summoned to the 

* Compare Grandisson's Register voL 1. fol. 109 with fol. 161* 
t [Calumny seems to be very ancient.]. 



ANTIQUITIES. 21'I 

convocation of the clergy to be holden at St. Paul's early 
in the ensuing February. 

XII. William Mychel received the Episcopal 
Benediction after his election, from Bishop Stafford, in 
the chapel of Clyst Palace, 19th March, 1413-4. 

XIII. John Lacey instituted 31st January, 1442. 
His death happened 13th November, 1455 ; on the 24th 
of the same month the Prior and Convent addressed a 
petition to the Abbot of Welbeck to assist as soon as 
possible at the election of a successor. By the rule of 
the order, the Prior should take to Welbeck the seal of 
the deceased Abbot ; on this occasion urgent business 
prevented his absence, and the seal was forwarded by a 
confidential deputy. 

XIV. Richard Cade; we find him summoned to 
the convocation of the clergy in 1463. 

XV. Thomas Dyare or Dyer ; He occurs in leases 
from 1502 to 1523 ; He was the grantor of the ss Church 
Howse," now the Parish Workhouse at Tor, on the 
the 27th May, 1520.* 

XVI. Simon Rede elected and confirmed in August, 
1523 ; he was the last Abbot, and surrendered his 
Monastery with fifteen of his religious brethren, 
25th April, 31st of Henry VIII. He was still alive in 
1553. For his ready compliance with the wishes of the 
Court, he was gratified with a pension of 56G6. 13. 4. — 
Among these fifteen monks we find the names of Mylton, 
Payne, Shapley, Lane, and Brydgman. 

Among his leases of tithes we have seen that of 
Tunstall to William Adam of Tunstall, on the 8th of 



§ Thomas Dyare, Abbot of our Saviour's Church at Torre, 
granted to Thomas Worcester, John Bartlett, sen., John Bartlett, 
jim.. Roger Bartlett, jun., John Waye, Thomas Waye, Thomas 
Colcott, William Colcott, Thomas Stremer, and Thomas Bishop, 
a parcel of land in Torre-Mohun, lying and being there, between 
Torre-Mohun on the South, the land of John Cokeman on the 
West, the King's highway on the North, and the church-path on 
the East, containing 70 feet in length, and 24 in breadth, to hold 
the same to the ten persons above-named, and to their assigns for 
ever, to the use of the Parish Church, under the yearly rent to 
the Abbot and Convent and their successors of 16d. at Michaelmas,, 
in lieu of all other demands and services. 



212 ANTIQUITIES 

October, 30th Henry VIII, for ten years. Rent, in 
toto, s£25. Of Hennock the 4th of January following", 
to John Southcot and John Parr for sixty years, under 
the yearly rent of £ 10. H« also granted the reversion 
of the tithes of Buckland Brewer, with the chapels of 
Bulke worthy, East Putford, Bradworthy, Pancraswyke, 
Shebbear and Sheepwash. to the Prideaux family for five I 
lives, after the interest in the premises of Thomas Cole, i 
Esq., son of John Cole of Slade, should expire. Rent, 
.3646. Tn numerous leases granted by this Abbey, 
mention is made of the Manors of Torre, Woolborough, 
Daccombe, Buckland Brewer, Aysheclyst, Shyllingford, 
Blakeauton, and Grendal. They had also possessions 
in Kingsware, Newton Abbot, Dartmouth, Coleton, 
Ilsham, &c; and presented to the Churches of Cocking- * 
ton, Tunstall, Tor, Bradeworthy, Bocland Brewer, i 
Scheftsbeare, Hanok, Scytesbrok, Blakeauton, the i 
Chapel of Pancras Weke and others. 

Among Rede's Annuitants, we meet with Sir John \ 
Fortescue and his son Andrew ; Sir Thomas Denys ; 
John Stephyns, Esq.; Humphrey Colles, Esq.; Thomas H 
Carewe, Esq. and his son John ; John Gilbert, Esq.; | 
John Whyddon, Gent,; Thomas Wolcote, Gent.; John 
Ridge way, Gent. 

King Henry VIII, on the 20th of July 1543, granted 
the Abbey to John St. T.eger, Esq. After rapidly pass- 
ing through the hands of the Pollards and Seymours,* 
it was purchased by Thomas Ridge way, Esq. son of the 
above-mentioned annuitant and steward of the place, • 
John Ridgeway, Gent. Westcote, folio 320 of his manu- ] 
script history of Devon, A. i). 1630, says, "that Rudge- 
way reedified the almost decayed cells to a new and better 
form- The Abbey stands both pleasantly and comuio- 

* St. Leger, by deed dated 14th June, 35 Hen. VIII. granted 
it to Sir Hugh Pollard; Hugh Pollard, his grandson, by deed t 
dated 2d April, 22Eliz. granted it to Sir Edward Seymour, Knight. 
Edward Seymour, his son and heir, by deed dated 18th November, 
41, Eliz. sold it to Thomas Ridgeway, Esq., ancestor of the 
Ridgeways Earls of Londonderry ; with whom it remained until 
the year 1653 or 1654, when it was sold to to John Stowell, Esq., 
from whom, in 1662, it was purchased by Sir George Caiy. 



ANTIQUITIES 213 

diously both for sea and land, having Torwood a fair and 
large demesne belonging to it, and a Bay or Peer at the 
sea side." 

Of the Abbey sufficient remains to bespeak its former 
magnificence. Two of its three gateways have unfortu- 
nately disappeared, one of them fell from neglect within 
the- memory of man ; but one remains which apparently 
witnessed the origin of the establishment, and seems to 
bid defiance to time ; under its vaulting we trace the 
arms of the Abbey, and of its Founders and Benefactors, 
the Brewers, Mohuns, and Spekes. The roofless Chap- 
ter-house, the prostrate masses of the central tower of 
the Abbey Church, the Refectory now converted into a 
Chapel, and the stately grange mast interest every be- 
holder. The ancient church-yard has made way for an 
orchard and garden. In front of the mansion was a large 
fish-pond contiguous to the Mill Garden, and was filled 
up about sixty years ago with the ruins of the church 
and cloisters. From an attentive examination of the 
ground plan, we are induced to infer, that the choir of 
the church was 72 feetlong,the breadth 30, the transept 
i)6 feet, and that the whole length of the fabric including 
the Lady Chapel, measured about 200 feet. On digging, 
the 20th of May 1825, we found much tesselated pave- 
ment, a stone coffin, and many human bones. Petrus 
films Mattluei a distinguished benefactor is mentioned by 
Leland,f to have been buried here. In folio 652, vol. 
1. Dugdale's Monasticon, is a bad view of the ruins of 
the church at Tor Abbey, taken shortly before the Re- 
storation of Charles II. and presented by John Stowell, 
Esq., the owner of the Abbey. He sold it in 1662 to 
Sir George Cary, with whose descendants may it long 
remain entire and prosperous." 

The Rev. Joseph Reeve, — a divine of high attainments, 
and whose works we have already noticed in the article 
on Chudleigh, — thus describes the present state of Tor 
Abbey.* 

t Itin. vol. iii. p. 54. 

* See his classical Poem, entitled TJgbrooke Park. We regret 
to say that the Sacrilege complained of by Mr. ReeTe, is not sq 
ancient as is commonly supposed. 



214 ANTIQUITIES 



** Though hallowed mitres glitter here no more, 

The friendly Abbey still adorns the shore ; 

Here meek religion's ancient temple rose, 

How great, how fall'n, the mournful ruin shews. — 

Of Sacrilege, behold, what heaps appear ! 

Nor blush to drop the tributary tear. 

Here stood the font — here on high columns rais'd, 

The Dome extended — there the altar blaz'd 

The shatter'd aisles, with clust'ring ivy hung, 

The yawning arch in rude confusion flung : 

Sad striking remnants of a former age, 

To Pity now might melt the spoiler's rage. 

Lo, sunk to rest, the wearied vot'ry sleeps, 

While o'er his urn the gloomy Cypress weeps ; 

Here silent pause — here draw the pensive sigh — 

Here musing learn to live, here learn to die ! 1" 
We have much pleasure in presenting' the reader with 
two Plates illustrative of these Ruins, which have been 
incorrectly lettered by the Artist ' ruins of the Chapel.' 
The handsome massive doorway, with its semicircular 
arches formed the entrance to the Chapter-house. These 
arches are richly worked, the shafts of the Purbeck 
columns are full of animal remains ; and many capitals 
of pillars are seen in different parts of the ruins. On the 
prostrate arch of the church, is a slab inscribed with 
Mr. Reeve's beautiful lines above quoted. The lower 
steps of the Tower still remain, and a flue vest of ivy 
spreads itself over the walls. The Refectory was con- 
verted into a handsome chapel by George Cary, Esq.. 
The imposing" appearance of the massive masonry, par- 
ticularly of the arch of the Abbey-Church must strike 
the attention of every beholder. It is pleasing- to see 
even these scanty ruins regarded with such religious 
reverence, and we trust that they are for ever safe from 
the improving hands of modern desolation. There are 
two stone coffins visible, — one lying about north and 
south and above seven feet long ; the other lying east 
and west, measuring six leet six. Only one gateway 
remains of the three mentioned by Leland ; it is seen at 
the western wing of the mansion, it has two groined en- 
trances, and is surmounted by a flag staff. The massive 
irons on which the folding gateway swung are still firmly 
lixed in the walls. The arch in the accompanying draw- 
ing- is far too pointed. Within two years, a fresh piece 



ANTIQUITIES 215 

of ground, attached to the gardens and adjoining the 

ruins, has been opened. It was evidently a part of the 

burial-place ; for immense quantities of human bones and 

almost perfect skeletons have been exposed. Many of 

them are in a state of excellent preservation ; particularly 

the teeth, which are also beautifully white and regular. 

The ordinary habits of life in these establishments will 

perhaps account for this fact, and the sense of taste in 

those days was not so vitiated by the sweets of the West 

as that of modern times. f It is not unworthy of remark 

j that almost all these relics indicate considerable size and 

| power. No coins, we believe* have ever been found 

! here. 



TORMOHUN. 

The ancient village of Tormohun was formerly called 
| Tor-brewer, from the renowned and honourable family 
| of that name who possessed the manor. From the talent 
| and reputation of the Brewers, many places in this 
county were distinguished by their name, as Tor-brewer, 
Buckland-brewer, and Teig-n -brewer. It is said that 
they were descended from Richard Bruer, a celebrated 
captain and follower of the Norman conqueror. Lord 
William Brewer, the founder of Tor Abbey, Baron of 
Torbay and Totnes, is supposed to have been born at 
Tor. This nobleman was eminently distinguished by the 
favour of Henry II., Richard I., King John, and 
Henry III. He enjoyed the most brilliant '* honours, 
publick employments, civil and military places of trust, 
and the high favour of no less than four kings following ; 
all which may speak him to have been one of the most 
extraordinary persons either of his own or any time since." 
He founded in this county the Abbey of Dunkeswell, and 
endowed a Priory of Benedictine Nuns in honour of 
St. Catherine, within the manor of Polsloe in the 12th 

I f A similar fact is mentioned in the Archaeologia, Vol. xix. by 

I Sir Richard Colt Hoare, in describing bones, &c. found in a 

{ Mithratic Cavern at Stony Littleton, Somersetshire, and which 

1 the worthy Baronet rather curiously calls a Stone- Barrow. 



216 ANTIQUITIES 

century ; the Augustine Hospital of St. John, at Bridge- 
water, in Somersetshire ; and the Augustine Priory of 
Motesfont, in Hampshire. King John " gave him 
license to enclose his woods at Toare (new Torr), 
Cadelegh, Raddon, and Ailesberie, in Devon ; and Burgh- 
walter (now Bridgewater), in Somerset, with free liberty 
to hunt the hare, fox, cat, and wolf, throughout all 
Devonshire. "f King Henry III. gave him the wardship 
of Reginald de Mohun, Lord of Dunster, who afterwards 
married Alicia, fifth and youngest daughter of his 
guardian, by whom he became possessed of the "manors 
of Thor, Waggeburgh (Woolborough), Kadele, Hulber- 
ton, Acford, Braworthy, and Axminster," in this county, 
and other property in Somersetshire. Reginald de Mohun 
left two sons, Reginald, and William who conveyed over to 
his brother Reginald, the manors of Torre and Marynge- 
legh, in Devonshire, and Endecombe als Codecombe, in 
Somersetshire, &c, in exchange for the manor of 
Axminster, on which he proposed to establish a colony 
of Cistercian monks ; this grant received the sanction of 
Pope Innocent IV,, who took the Monastery de novo 
Manso^or Newenham, under his immediate guardianship- 
in 1248. Reginald de Mohun had a court house behind 
the east end of the church, the residence also of the 
Brewers and Wakes ;| and the Abbot of the " Monastery 
of Torre" gave him his permission to erect a private 
chapel in this place, as will be seen in the description of 
Tor Abbey. A few traces of these buildings and parts 
of the walls are still remaining on the East side of Tor 
church-yard. Reginald died here, January 20, 1257. I 
and was interred in Newenham Abbey. Tor-brewer, 
therefore, having thus passed from the Brewers to the 
Mohuns, assumed the name of Tormohiui, which it has 
preserved through the revolution of 600 years to the 
present period. Soon after the dissolution of the Abbey, 
the manor of Tormohun was purchased by John Ridge- 
way, Esq., whose grandson was created aBaronetin 1612; 
in 1616, Lord Ridgeway ; and in 1662, Earl of London- 
derry. Lucy, one of the co-heiresses of Ridgeway ; 

f Frince. X Camden. 



ANTIQUITIES. 217 

brought it by marriage to Arthur, Marquis of Donegal. 
Many of the old leases, in the possession of inhabitants of 
Torquay, bear the signature of the Earl of Donegal ; by 
whom, about the year 1768, the manor was sold to 
Sir Robert Palk, Bart., grandfather of Sir L. V. Palk, 
Bart., who continues the proprietor of one moiety ; the 
other being held by Henry Gary, Esq., of Tor Abbey. 
Its lords had formerly the privilege of inflicting capital 
punishment; a power now happily transferred to better 
hands. The manor had also the custom of free-bench. 
The Church is supposed to belong to the commencement 
of the 14th century ; although a more ancient fabric 
existed in the parish before the establishment of Tor 
Abbey, and which Lord Brewer appropriated to that foun- 
dation. The present building measures 70 feet by 42. 
" A North and South Aisle, says Mr. Oliver, com- 
municate with the Nave by four arches ; but it is 
lamentable to witness the total disregard of symmetry and 
character in the tracery of the windows of the former 
Aisle. On the outer corbels of the East window of the 
Chancel, are the arms of Tor Abbey, Brewer, & Mohun."* 

Tor Abbey. Brewer. Mobun. 





On the gable above this window there are some vestiges 
of a mutilated stone which probably formed the base of a 
cross. The old singing gallery bore the date 1760, 
and the pannels were ornamented with heraldic shields. 
Many of these were sacrificed to make way for the side 
galleries, one of which, in the true spirit of modern 
taste, is supported by imitations of Grecian columns ! 
The few remaining Arms were demolished when the old 
gallery was removed in 1830, and have not yet been 

* Ecclesiastical Antiquities,— a work distinguished by the 
; arduous research, accuracy, and talent, which mark all Mr. 
i Oliver's productions. It is by no means a trifling proof of the 
J value, of this book, that it is the incessant victim of unacknowledged 
j plagiarism and garbled piracy. 

u 



218 ANTIQUITIES. 

replaced. We made drawing's of eighteen of the most 
perfect, among which are those of Pole, Ridgeway, 
Coplestone, Seymour, Dennis, Southcote, and Cary. 
It is much to be regretted that any spoliations should be 
permitted in our churches. They are far too deficient 
in antiquities to have any to spare, and their guardianship 
must not be entrusted to men who hare no taste to feel 
their value. It cannot be too strongly insisted that the 
petty officers of the Church have no right to remove, to 
destroy, to alter, or to diminish any of its meanest 
appendages : that power is vested in superior hands, and 
is never to be exercised but with religious caution and 
respect.* 

The venerable pulpit which formerly belonged to this 
fabric has been removed to Cockington ; the screenf has 
been destroyed, as well as the painted glass in the 
windows ; excepting, we believe, one solitary rose in 
the Western window of the South Aisle. The Font is 
polygonal, ornamented with winged figures at the angles. 
Under the gallery, near the belfry door, is a demi-man 
as a supporter. The windows on the North side, we 
have already remarked, are wretchedly modern. The 
interior of this small building is not imposing ; but we 
have no doubt that when its screen and other antiquities 
•were perfect, and the aisles unincumbered with heavj 
galleries, it was a fabric of no common beauty. In con- 

* The Introduction to the " Ecclesiastical Antiquities" (put 
lished by Woolmer, Exeter,) contains an able Letter by the 
Rev. J. P. Jones, on the preservation of these relics and on Churcl 
Architecture generally; to which we refer the reader. We beg, 
however, to correct an error into which Mr. Jones has fallen, ii 
animadverting rather sharply on the conduct and taste of Bishoj 
Porteus, in refusing to enrich St. Paul's with the best productioi 
of the British easel. Now, the truth is that the enlightened offe 
of Sir Joshua Reynolds and West was rejected by Bishop Terrick, 
and not by Porteus. This amiable prelate was not translated froi 
Chester to London before 1787, whereas the offer of the Academj 
was made in or about the year 1773. We regret, however, Mr. 
Jones's inadvertence the more, since Porteus was too benevolent 
to cherish the narrow Iconoclastic feelings of the old churchmen, 
and too liberal to believe that Religion suffers, by being associated 
with the efforts of immortal Genius. 

f In 1822, when Mr. Lysons wrote his work, this screen was 
remaining, with the joists of the roodloft over the Ridgeway chapel 



ANTIQUITIES. 210 

sequence of its limited size compared with the growing: 
population, and the numerous interments within its walls, 
it has been suggested to erect a new church in some part 
of the parish, and retain the present structure merely as 
a Cemetery for Torquay. The Tower is about sixty feet 
high, and forms the frustrum of a pyramid, inclining 
about one foot on each side at the summit. It has no 
cornice, and is quite plain excepting that it has at the 
top battlements and embrasures. The oldest grave stone 
we have been able to discover in this fabric, is one dated 
October 4, 1516, to the memory of one of the Bartlot 
family. It is lying in the South Aisle under the singing 
gallery, and is considerably worn. The following is the 
inscription — 

$tr jaret go$<mueg bartlot qttt ahiit quarto o~tr mentfuf 
<fl)ct0bri£ anno tfomtnt mdxvi cujiu? antmetrcug proptttetuv. 
Bte tutor me mei. 

Ridge way. Cary. 

M 





In the South Aisle, within the Ridgeway Chapel, is a 
monument to the memory of the Ridgeway family, the 
proprietors of Torwood house and the manor of Torrnohun. 
It bears the effigy of a Knight in armour, surmounted 
by his helmet and armorial bearings, and has lengthy 
inscriptions to the memory of John Ridgeway, Esq., 
and his son Thomas, who died in 15^8. The monument 
was erected, officii et pietatis ergo, by the son of the 
latter, Sir Thomas Ridgeway, Deputy Treasurer, Com- 
mander General, and Treasurer of War, to James I. in 
the kingdom of Ireland, and one of the Privy Council of 
that realm. When the floor of the Church was relaid, 
the vault of this family was necessarily opened, and two 
lead coffins exposed. The breastplates (two small square 
sh eets of lead) were lying loosely on them. That on the 
N orth side bears the following inscription in quaint script 
characters: — " The Right Honarable Lucy Countes of 
Donegal!, of the Kingdom of Ireland, Died July the 



220 ANTIQUITIES. 

Afth, 1732, Aged 35 years." The other on the South 
side of the vault has the following — " The Rt. HonMe. I 
The Lady Lucy Ridgway Countess Dowager of Londn. L 
Berry, Obijt Sept. 4th, 1794, JEtatis suce 55." 

On the North side of the communion table is the vault [■ 
of the Cary family, surmounted by an elaborately wrought ! 
altar tomb in a niche of the chancel Avail. On the top \ 
of the stone slab is this inscription in mutilated old « 
English characters. Hicjacet Thomas Carius armiger, t 
qui obiit 27° die Martii, an domini 1567, cujus anime 
deus propitietur. At the foot of the tomb is part of a 
brass plate to the memory of one of the daughters of John ! 
Southcote, wife of Thomas Cary, Esq., died August 
1580, who was buried "here near the tomb of her \ 
husband." Within the communion rails are brasses 
inserted in the floor, bearing arms. One (much broken) 
has the figure of a lady with her three daughters in , 
antique costume and in a praying attitude. This lady 
was Wilmota, daughter of John Gifforde, of Yeo, and 
wife of George Cary, Esq., of Cockington : in domino 
obdormitur xxi° die Junii anno dni, 1581. On the front j 
of the family monument is the following, in bold Roman 
characters, to the memory of the grandson of Thomas 
Cary, Esq., who bought Tor Abbey in 1662 ; Here 
lyeth the Body of Sir George Cary, Knight, who dyed 
on the 27th of May, in the year e of our Lord, 1678. 
Near the vestry door is a slab to the memory of William 
Ley, of Kenn, who died at Tor Abbey, May 8, 1634; 
it has the following quaint lines : — 

A carcas heare In tombe doth lye 

Which once a Soule did butyfye, 

Fild with divine Rayes from above, 

Made happy with f e Great God's love, 

Peace did attend in life and death 

Soe lived and soe resygne his breath 

If blesed bee peace mackers 

Blest is hee 

Who with ^ blesed 

Blest for aye shall bee. 
In a pew in the North aisle is the slab of Peter Ley, 
1697 ; and in the Nave that of the wife of Mr. 



ANTIQUITIES 221 

Christopher Martin, of Chilson, 1661. There are also 
memorials for Daniell Luscombe, Gent, of this parish, 
1687 ; Mary his wife, 1693 ; and their daughter Mary- 
Smith, 1737 ; Geo. Baker, Esq., the East Indian bene- 
factor, a native of this parish, 1799 ; Geo. Gary, Esq., 
1752, and the Hon. Ann Gary, his wife. In the yard 
are the sepulchral stones of Bonadventure and Elizabeth 
Cowell, 1689; Caleb Dyer of this pash, 1676; John 
Dyer, 1687 ; Elizabeth Manning, 1692 ; Gregory 
Adams, 1690; Elizabeth Baker of Taljton, 1725; and her 
son Josias Baker, who rented the barton of Torwood 
45 years, 1753 ; Thomas Hydon, 1758 ; (nearly defaced;) 
Richard Bickford of Cockington, 1737? Elias his son, 
1764, and Grace his daughter, 1781, the last of an 
honest good family ; Thomas Goad of Cockington, 1771 ; 
Burton of Cockington, 172J ; Sibela Hackigs, 1710; 
and the following now obliterated inscription on a tomb 
near the tower — 

o o 

BODY OF MR THMAS WAYM UTH 

35 h 

t* TACK NOTES YOU THAT PARSE HEARE BY O 

SB AND THINK VPON YOUR MORTAL YTY g 

W NO FREEDOM FROM THE GRAUE OR TUM g 



>H 



o 



VNTEL FROM HEUEN CHRIST DOTH COME g 

H NOW HEE IS GONE WEE ALL MOST FOLLO AFTER § 
5 HIS WIFE HIS SONE AND ECKE HIS DAFTERS 

« H 

55 i-i 

6Z91 ■HEraicaftON ao qS aHiL a-JAi w 

The Registers of this Church begin with the year 1628. 
The improved appearance and neatness of the Yard 
are highly creditable. The village of Tor was granted 
under the Great Seal by Edward the Sixth, in the 7th 
year of his reign, to John Ridgeway and John Petre, 
Esqrs. Torwood Grange, " Grangia de Torwode" was 
granted to Sir Thomas Dennis.* June 25, 1541. (Eccles. 
Antiq.) 

* This gentleman contrived to monopolize a vast proportion of 
the wealth arising from the plunder of property at the Dissolution. 
In the scramble for religious property, says Mr. Oliver, he was 
one of the keenest and most successful competitors ; if the 
mammon of iniquity could confer happiness t this very rich man 
must have been supremely happy. 



222 ANTIQUITIES 

Is the most perfect example of Tudor Architecture m ) 
this neighbourhood. The initials of Thomas Ridgeway j 1 
with the date 1579 are seen on the cistern at the head of P 
the lead shute, in front of the building. The interior is [ 
still highly interesting. The stairs are of massive oak, - 
and some of the doors of the different apartments are P 
richly carved. The principal sitting-room and bed-room ' 
above have preserved the ancient wainscotting, which is f 
handsomely painted ; over the fireplace in the sitting-room i 
is the painting of a Castle, said to be the residence of \ 
the Donegalls in Ireland. At the top of the house is a ' 
small room with a lime-ash floor. In the rear of the J 
building are the remains of the granary. The entrance 
to the court yard is richly overspread with ivy. A few 
years ago considerable quantities of leaden pipes, about 
4-inch bore, were dug up in a field above Torwood. They 
led from from the old Well at the head of the field (about 
500 yards distant), and formerly supplied the manor 
house with water. This well, which had a fine pointed 
arch, has been destroyed within a few years! The walls J 
of one of the ancient gateways of Torwood are still [ 
standing, on the Braddons ; forming the northern ! 
entrance to the grounds of Joseph Garrow, Esq. 



We have seen a lease of land belonging to Thomas 
Ridgeway, of Tormohun, Esq., to several inhabitants of 
this parish, referring to a parcel of land between Ridge- 
way's land, that which once belonged to John Chockman, r 
and the church ; containing 70 feet in length and 24 [ 
in breadth, including the church house. This is dated 
in the reign of our Sovereign Lord William the Third, 
in the year 1700. The lease was for 99 years, and the 
yearly rent sixteen pence. We have also seen another 
lease, much mutilated, dated 1667, referring to this 
parish, and containing the names of Fortunatus Tapley, 
Thomas Ball, Thomas Cowell, Bartholomew Bickford, 
&c. The former document is evidently a renewal of the 
lease granted by Abbot Dyer, in 1520, mentioned in 
Mr. Oliver's article on Tor Abbey. The ground is now 
occupied by the parish workhouse. 



ANTIQUITIES. 223 

This parish was once celebrated for its tin works. 
Robert Earl of Londonderry, says Mr. Oliver, presented 
a petition to the worshipful John Manley, Esq., Steward 
of the Stannary Courts of Devon, stating that on the 
10th April, 1695, he was seized of three several tin-works^ 
situate in the parishes of Tor Mohun and St. MaryChurch; 
that great quantities of tin ore were digged up and 
thrown on the grass of the said several and respective 
tin works ; that he had erected a stamping mill, and had 
expended upwards of ^£500. in his enterprise, but com- 
plained that Edward Cary, of Tor Abbey, Esq., and 
others, had diverted the water course from the said 
stamping mill. [Eccles. Antiq.] 

CHAPEL HILL. 

A curious peculiarity in the construction of the building 
on this hill has been pointed out to us by Mr. Brown. 
The Roof is a gothic arch of solid stone, the outer 
covering of which is composed of thick horizontal slabs 
of slate ; forming altogether a compact mass of masonry, 
of immense security and strength. We shall be glad to know 
if any of our readers are acquainted with a similar example. 
There are also to be noticed in the building, four arches 
of different forms — an elliptical, a segmental, an obtuse 
Gothic, and an equilateral Gothic. If the building was ever 
dedicated to St. Michael as alluded to at page 89, it may 
have been in consequence of its elevated situation. 
" Formerly, says Mr. Oliver, most of the churches that 
were built on mountains or eminences, were dedicated 
to St. Michael ; perhaps because it is asserted in the 
most ancient legends, that he had frequently appeared 
in such places — in vertice Gargani montis, and others." 
St. Michael is also the tutelary saint of many votive 
chapels ; It is unnecessary to remind those acquainted 
with the classic writers, of the antiquity ofvotive offerings ; 
the Odes of Horace and the iEneid abound with such 
allusions. 

II. ST. MARY CHURCH. 

This manor once belonged to a family of the same name ; 
Robert de St. Mary Church was the last of the family 
in the reign of Henry II.; and his heiress brought it to 



224 ANTIQUITIES 

De Rotouiago. It subsequently passed through the 
hands of the Lords Audley, and from them to the 
Bourchiers Earls of Bath, and from them to the Fords ' 
of Bagtor. It is now the property of Henry Cary, Esq., 
of Tor Abbey. 

The manor of Combe Pafford is the property of Sir \ 
Lawrence Palk, Bart. The church contains two sepul- [ 
chral slabs of the Holbrine family, with their arms ; one - 
bears the date of 1516. The Pulpit is dated 1624 ; I; 
it is built of richly carved oak, and unfortunately V 
painted. It bears the arms of the see of Exeter. Under [ 
the screen, in the pews, are seven badly painted figures |, 
of Catholic saints ; and in the same line on the other side, ; 
are other similar figures, covered with boarding. The 
King's Arms are dated 1712 ; the gallery was built 
in 1732 by subscription headed by Salter, the Vicar. 
There are memorials for Richard Lane of Ilsham, 1638 ; 
Edward Mouge, 1692 ; Sir Thomas Louis, Bart., K.F. 
and K.M.T.; Miss Stoughton, 1817, &c &c; and for 
four successive incumbents — viz. "Robertus Balle, A.M. 
hujus eccleske vicarius annis quinquaginta" died 16/4; 
William Raynold, of Oriel Coll. Oxford, "latelv Vicar 
of St. Mary Church," died in 1682 ; " Jacobus Salter," 
30 years Vicar, died in 1713, and succeeded by his son, 
who died in 1767 ; John Fever was the next, and was 
Vicar 32 years and upwards ; he was succeeded by the 
Rev. Edward Kitson, the last incumbent. This most 
amiable man died July 2, 1827. The life of Robert 
Balle mentioned above as having been 50 years Vicar of 
the parish, is not a little curious. We learn from the 
honest and intelligent John Waymouth, (set. 74, and 
who has been Sexton for 40 years,) that this Mr. Balle 
being Vicar in the reign of Charles I., was sequestered 
under Cromwell, when he worked for his livelihood in 
the neighbouring stone quarries; it is said that he was 
once pursued by his oppressors and overtaken at Scot's 
Bridge, near Kingskerswell ; but that being disguised as 
a common labourer, he was passed by, and escaped. He 
was reinstated under Charles II. 
We now beg to introduce a htter from a very able 



ANTIQUITIES 225 

Architect, Mr. Brown, of London,* on the Antiquities 
of this church. 

To the Author of the Panorama of Torquay. 

Sir , — I send you the following- Architectural remarks on 
St. Mary Church. This Church is situated on an eminence, 
and is a conspicuous object at a distance. The panoramic 
view from the churchyard is really delightful, extending 
overTorbay , Brixham, and Paignton ; and towards Babbi- 
combe and Teignmouth on the East. "A village church 
is on all occasions a pleasing object : to the young and 
thoughtless as a place where they meet each other in 
their holiday clothes, and to the infirm and aged as a 
place where after death they are deposited near their 
departed friends and relations." This is all that can be 
said of Mary Church, for with this exception, like some 
other buildings in its vicinity, it looks best at a distance. 
I had anticipated to have met with a more picturesque 
object, but was disappointed on finding that every vestige 
ofGothic ornament, both finial, crocket, and pinnacle, was 
gone ; and that every feature of moulding on the whole 
of the external surface had been totally destroyed and 
obliterated by repeated and detestable roughcasts of lime 
and sand ; so that instead of the Church with its Tower 
shewing those beautiful varied coloured stones sometimes 
to be met with about Devonshire, speckled over withyellow 
moss, crumbling away by the wasting hand of Time, and 
partially covered with tufts of grass, lichens, and ivy — 
not a tendril or a solitary leaf was to be seen to mark its 
antiquity : the whole monotonous surface presenting to 
the eye one entire, unsightly, towering, huge, chalky 
mass. 

Finding nothing interesting to an Architect on the 
exterior, I entered the Church, which I found to consist 
of a nave with a north and south aisle ; the length of the 
body of the Church, in clear of the walls, from east to 

* Mr. Brown is entitled to especial notice in this work, as a 
native of Devon (Tamerton Folliot) , as the author of the Principles 
of Practical Perspective, with plates, Royal 4to ; Rudiments of 
Composing Household Furniture classically ; Elements of Com- 
posing Architectural Ornaments. &c; and as a valued contributor 
to the Philosophical Journal, and other Literary and Scientific; 
Publications. 



226 ANTIQUITIES 

west including; the altar, measured 95ft. 6in. The breadth 
of each aisle from wall to column 9ft. 6in.; and the nave 
in clear of columns 21ft. 3in. This nave, the moment 
I entered the Church, struck me as being considerably 
too broad and out of all proportion with the side aisles, 
which is not only an error in point of the tout ensemble, 
but [thereby weakens the Church ; as, if the vaulted 
roof be not'exeeedingly well braced above, the ceiling- is 
always sure to thrust out in a lateral direction, and throw [ 
over'the columns towards the side aisles. This is the 
case in many of our Churches, though it sometimes 
happens by the sinking of the vaults within the Church, | 
by being made too near the pillars: as for instance the , 
Church of Heavitree near Exeter, and the one at Newton 
Ferrers ; both at this time are kept together by unsightly 
bars of iron running direct across the middle of the 
Church from pillar to pillar. I found the columns here | 
in the south aisle gone over lOin. out of their perpendicular, ' 
and propped against the wall by the most unsightly pieces 
of wood— truly disgraceful. It is very remarkable in 
this Church that the capitals of the pillars on the north 
side only are carved, while those on the south are left 
plain. The same singularity maybe seen in Cockington 
Church, a picturesque building surrounded with firs and 
clad in mantling ivy. 

The pulpit is handsome, and was made in the latter 
part of the reign of James the First. It is octangular, 
and consists of small pannels with circular heads, and on 
the angles gilt trusses, the whole boldly carved, rude as 
that age was. It has no canopy or sounding-board, and 
its original pillar and staircase is gone, and the pulpit is 
now one-third buried in a sort of box-like pew. Around 
the frieze of the pulpit is written in carved Old English 
letters the following scriptural passage — the law was 

GIVEN BY MOSES AND GRACE CAME BT JESUS CHRIST. 

The whole is gilt.— The gallery is the worst 1 ever beheld; 
it is in three detached pieces— the one facing the pulpit 
is pannelled in the oriental Gothic, another in the north- 
west corner of the north aisle is new and is also in 
the Gothic style, and contains the arms of Thomas Wilson 
Ffrance, Esq., by whom it was erected; but the one 



ANTIQUITIES 227 

over the entrance as you come into the Church, is in a 
tottering- state and was put up in 1732 ; it lias all the 
appearance from the burlesque paintings on it of having" 
been part of the gallery of a country Theatre. This may 
appear lightly spoken, but such is the case. 

The altar within the railing is laid with cold flag stones 
which are very damp, and dangerous for the clergyman 
to stand on ; and on the south wall near it I discovered a 
tablet stating that the late Rev. Edward Kitson had 
actually met his death on that very spot, while in the 
performance of his clerical duty. This floor should be 
boarded and have steps to ascend to the communion table. 
There is an Altar Picture in a gilt frame, by Annibale 
Caracci ; the subject, Christ taken down from the Cross 
and laid on the lap of the Virgin Mary, attended by an 
Angel. This picture is now entirely ruined by the 
dampness of the Church, though it has been there but 
a few years. Why do the Clergy not get stoves in their 
Churches and mats laid down in their aisles as they have in 
London ? Do they think that their country churches are 
drier and better ventilated. This cannot be the case, 
for in many of them the water may be seen running down 
the walls ; and in few Churches are the windows made 
to open. Strange it may appear, — but although perhaps 
no Church in Devonshire is higher situated, I never 
entered one that is so damp and cold. 

The screen in this Church is entire and of tolerably 
good workmanship, the tracery in the arches is chaste, 
the spandrils plain, and the cornice ornamented with 
arches and pendant acorns ; in the lower part of the 
screen some of the ancient paintings of the different saints 
are still to be seen, but partially defaced. The windows 
in the Church are tolerably good in the tracery, but the 
Altar window, which should have been the richest, is 
wretchedly plain and modern. The seating in the Church 
is part of the old benches, but they are out of repair and 
in a very tottering state. 

The only object in this Church peculiarly worthy of 
notice is the Saxon Font, which contains the following 
figures sculptured within a guilloche ; being prior to the 
Conquest they are of very rude workmanship. f 
f See accompanying Plate. 



228 ANTIQUITIES 

1. A man on horseback blowing" a bugle, which he 
holds in his left hand, in his right an ancient knife. 

2. A dog with his head turned back regarding a flower. 

3. A cock pecking at a bunch of grapes. 

4. A wild boar baited by a dog. 

5. A man with a bugle in his right hand, a spear in 
his left, and a tortoise by his side. 

6. A nondescript bird, resembling a vulture, with a 
human head in its beak. 

7. A nondescript figure, approaching to the monkey 
tribe, sitting in a chair, and playing on a harp. 

The circumstance relating to this Font is as follows ; it 
appears that previous to the year 1824 the end of the Font 
now resting on the floor was uppermost, and the present 
upper end which contains the sculpture was buried below 
the pavement ; the repairs of the floor of the Church in 
the year above-mentioned led to the discovery of the 
present figures, and it was therefore in consequence 
restored to its primitive position. Now as it was the 
practice with our Catholic forefathers, whenever they 
rebuilt a Church which had been erected either by the 
Saxons or Normans, to preserve their Fonts and even to 
retain them in the same original place ; there can be no 
doubt that when this Church was so rebuilt, the Saxon 
Font to them appearing of rude workmanship, and (as 
they supposed) to ill accord with their newly invented 
Gothic architecture, it was by them inverted. Many 
of the Fonts in our Churches therefore belong to the 
primitive Church, and not to the present structures, 
which may be even the third on the same foundations. 
It Avas a custom with the early Saxons first to set up their 
Fonts in different parts of the country, and to enclose 
them within a wooden house merely for baptismal 
purposes where afterwards they built a Church of wood, 
and in a few instances of stone ; whereas the Norman 
Churches were always constructed with stone. 
I am, Sir, 
Yours very truly, 

R. Brown, 
Aug. 1832. Professor of Architecture. 




gpxyan Jfmtt 

AT 

St. MARY CHURCH, DEVON. 



A. The Font. 

B. The Ornamental Band. 



[Engraved for the Panorama of Torquay.'] 



ANTIQUITIES. 22$ 

The Registers of Burials at this Church commence 
with 30th March, 1641 ; of Christenings 2nd May ; and of 
Marriages 24th June. The handsome altar-piece, repre- 
senting our blessed Saviour, as mentioned in Mr. Brown's 
letter, was presented by the late Sir Thomas Louis, Bart. 

In the vale of Paver or Combe Pafford, in an orchard 
opposite the old Alms-houses, are some ruins which tra- 
dition has invested with a curious tale which perhaps 
entitles them to notice. The legend says that whilst the 
place was building for a religious edifice, (prior to the 
erection of the Parish Church) the work of the day was 
torn down by night, and that this was the performance 
of a Spirit, whose voice was heard solemnly exclaiming, 
If you will my word fulfil 
Build the Church on St. Mary's Hill. 
Be this as it may ; notwithstanding the obliging disposi- 
tion of the Spirit, the walls have not the slightest evidence 
of such antiquity. 

St. Mary Church was one of the first parishes in South 
Devon that contributed to establish the sects of Whitefield 
and Wesley. So rigid were the inhabitants of these vil- 
lages in their devotion to the cause, that the doctrines of 
methodism were not only firmly planted, but the eminent 
founders themselves did not hesitate to appear personally 
among them, and enforce by their own eloquence the 
tenets they professed. Wesley and Whitefield frequently 
visited the parish, and the former held the meetings of his 
society at the house of a Member at Barton. Whitefield, 
on his visits to St. Mary Church, sojourned with his 
friends, the Shepheards, at Westhill ; and there, like 
Wesley, declared his opinions to the assembled circle. 
This old house of the Shephea ds is now uninhabited. 
Whitefield is also said to have preached in the open air in 
a meadow at Combe Pafford. 



III. Cockington. — This manor belonged, at the time 
of Domesday survey, to William de Falesia, whose pro- 
perty, Mr. Lysons says, was subsequently vested in 
Robert son of Martin Tours, Lord of Camois, in Wales. 
Roger, his youngest son, took the name of de Cockington. 
Sir James Cockington was the last heir male of the 
X 



230 ANTIQUITIES. 



family ; at his death the manor passed hy marriage to Sir 
Walter de Woodland, usher of the chamber to the Black 1 
Prince. It was held by Sir John Cary in the 14th cen-f 
tury, perhaps hy purchase. This ancient family pre-: 
viuusly resided at Stantor in the adjoining- parish ; andf 
the Cockington branch is celebrated for the number of } 
eminent men whom it produced. The property seems } 
to have heen twice confiscated during their connexion 
with it. Sir John Cary of Cockington was Chief baron!' 
of the Exchequer in the time of Richard II., and was' 
probably the son of Sir John, who twice represented ; 
this county in Parliament, along with Sir William Cary 
his brother. The Chief Baron was one of the judges 
who declaredin the king's favour at the celebrated council 
of Nottingham ; and although he was more fortunate 
than Sir Robert Tresylian, Sir Simon Burley, and others, 
the interest of Gloucester's party prevailed so far as to 
sentence him to death, and his estates to confiscation ; 
but the former sentence was remitted to banishment to 
Ireland, with an annual allowance of £20. The estates 
were restored to his son by Henry V. in consequence off 
a victory he obtained in Smithfield, over a knight errand 
of Arragon, distinguished throughout Europe for his feats 
of arms ; and as a further mark of approbation he and i 
his posterity were permitted to bear for ever the arms of 
the conquered knight, ' Argent, in a bend sable, three | 
roses of the first.' His descendant Sir William Cary* j 
was beheaded for taking part with Henry VI. at the j 
battle of Tewkesbury. After his attainder, Mr. Lysons j 
says, the manor of Cockington was granted to Sir Wil- : 
liam Bourchier, but was afterwards restored to the family. ; 
Sir George Cary, the Lord Deputy of Ireland, died at 
Cockington in 1615, and left the estate to his adopted ; 
nephew, whose son, Sir Henry Cary, from his circum- 
stances in the civil wars, was compelled to alienate this 
their ancient possession. f It was then sold (in 1654) 
to Roger Mallock, Esq. ancestor of the Rev. Roger Mal- 

* This gentleman was the immediate ancestor of the Viscounts 
Falkland. John Cary was raised to the peerage by that title iu 
1620, and the arms above-mentioned are still borne by the two 
families. 

f Prince. 



ANTIQUITIES. 231 

lock of Cockington Court, who is also the proprietor of 
the manor of Chelstun, which has passed by the same 
title. The Lords of the manor of Cockington had for- 
merly the power of inflicting capital punishment. Cock- 
ington had in former times, according- to Lysons, a 
market on Mondays and a fair for three days, at the 
festival of the Holy Trinity ; granted to Walter de Wood- 
land A. 1). 1297. The rectory of Tor Mohun with the 
chapel of Cockington was leased for life to George Cary, 
Secretary of War, by Queen Elizabeth in IC01 ; and 
granted A. 1G07, in fee to Sir Oliver Cromwell. § In 
1609 Sir George Cary, the Lord Deputy, founded seven 
alms-houses at Cockington, for the poor of the parish. 
"Knowing, says Prince, how pleasing a sacrifice to God, 
charity and good deeds are, he purposed to do something 
for the poor ; and accordingly he set about the building 
of seven alms-houses for their use and comfort ; i. e. so 
many several apartments all under one roof, for seven 
poor people of that parish, — every one having a ground 
room, and a chamber over, with a little distinct herb- 
garden enclosed with a stone wall. 1 '* The charity has 

§ Lysons, pp. 123-24. 

* The deed ran as follows. " Sir George Cary, of Cockinton, 
Kt. by his deed under hand and seal, bearing date 11th day of 
Sept. in the 6th year of the reign of K. James I., did grant to 
several feoffees in trust, an annuity of ,£30. per an. issuing out of 
his Minnors of Cockinton and Chilson, by quarterly payments 
for ever ; for and towards the reparation of seven alms-houses at 
Cockinton, there newly erected by the said Sir George Cary ; and 
for and towards the relief and maintenance of seven poor people, 
then and at all times afterwards inhabiting therein ; every poor 
man and woman to be paid one shilling every week, and at Christ- 
mas, yearly, a new frize gown and a new shirt or smock ; and the 
overplus of the £'30. per an. if any, shall be employed tor the us« 
of such of them as shall be sick ; and for such other necessary 
occasions as in the discretion of the feoffees shall be tlu ught fit:'* 
And the deed further declared, that " the owners of Cockinton 
House shall for ever thereafter nominate such poor people as shall 
be placed into the said alms-houses; so as such nomination be mad« 
within twenty-eight days after any of the houses be void,by death, 
or otherwise ; and so as the choice be of the poorest sort of the 
inhabitants of the parish of Cockinton ; and if there should be 
any neglect or default therein by the space of the twenty-eight 
days fully expired, that then the Bishop of Exeter for the time 
being, is to elect and nominate any such poor person as he shall 
think fit." 

Sir George Cary was buried in Cockington Church in Feb. 1615. 



232 ANTIQUITIES 

also been increased by the purchase of 5$230 stock with k 
arrears, which gives a small additional allowance. In 
1810,* an agreement was made between Mr. Mallock and 
the trustees, by virtue of which he has rebuilt the houses L 
in a more eligible situation and on an improved plan, L 
adhering of course to the tenor of Sir George Cary's ] 
deed ; The sum of 56150 was allowed to Mr. Mallock as 
the estimated expense of the repairs of the old buildings, 
but he expended more than double that amount in the 
erection of the new buildings. 

The Church, as we approach it from the lawn, is a 
highly picturesque, engaging, and beautiful object. It is 
richly overspread with ivy, and its dark tower rises 
among the trees which surround the fabric. As we enter \ 
the building by the doorway of the tower, which is \ 
arched with red conglomerate, the eye is engaged with 
the smallness of the interior, and with its appearance of \ 
elegant simplicity. There is a striking contrast between \ 
the capitals of the pillars of the two aides, those on one k 
side only are carved and the others plain. The church 
has been newly pewed. In the glass of the window over 
the communion table is emblazoned a warrior in armour ] 
with his sword. The screen has suffered much, but 
enough remains to engage the attention of the antiquary. 
On the sides of the entrance, boldly carved, are emble- 
matical representations of St. Matthew and St. Luke ; 
the former is on the north side with the inscription r 
Sanctus Mattheus, the latter on the south with the words > ; 
Sanctus Lucas. The font is of wood, handsomely carved, L 
and octagonal, having armorial bearings in each compart- 
ment, all impaled. We recognise those of Cary, Carew, 
Dinham and Paulet. The Pulpit formerly belonged to , 
Tor Church ; it is boldly carved and gilded, the upper rj 
part of the mutilated carved work having been surmounted [ 
with cherubs. When the present modern pulpit was 
erected in Tor Church, this interesting relic w-as about 
to have been broken up ; but it was fortunately saved 
from destruction by the Rev. Roger Mallock, who 
purchased it for the fabric which it now adorns. 
There are not many sepulchral stones to attract at- 
tention ; among those now 7 visible we have observed 

* Lvsons. 



ANTIQUITIES 26j 

Barbor of Cockington, 1702; Eastley of Stantor, 
1603 ; Taylor of Cockington, 1709 ; those belonging to 
the Gary's in the family aisle have been recently covered 
by the pews. The Tower has been evidently arranged 
as a place of security, in time of danger ; the door has. 
inside bolts, and the upper apartments are fitted up with 
a fireplace and other conveniences* 



IV. Paignton. — This manor in very early times 
belonged to the See of Exeter, from which, by royal 
requisition, Bishop Veysey conveyed it to the Earl of 
Pembroke ; he sold it in 1644 to Sir Henry Cary, from 
whom, by an intermediate party, it passed to Samuel 
Kelland, Esq. At the death of C. Kelland Courtenay, 
Esq. his coheiresses brought it to the Earl of Cork and 
Mr. Poyntz, from whose representative, it passed by 
purchase to the Templer family. Blagdon barton, and 
Collator! Kirkham (otherwise ' Colaton Clavil') belonged 
to the family of Dennis, and passed to the Kirk hams by the 
marriage of Sir Nicholas with Agatha the sister of Sir 
Robert Dennis orle Deneis, in the reign of King Edwd. \, 
The heiress of Kirkham broughtthis property to Sir Geo, 
Blount, Bart, of whose representatives it was bought by 
M. Parker, Esq. Preston is vested in the Precentor of 
Exeter Cathedral, to whom the great tithes of the parish 
belong, by the appropriation of Bishop Quivil, in the 
reign of Edward I."* The lords of the manor could 
formerly inflict capital punishment. The ruins of the 
episcopal palace are still visible ; Sir Henry Pomeroy 
was obliged to make amendment and compensation to the 
Bishop (Bronescombe), in 1265, for having scaled the 
fences of this park, and hunted down the prelate's deetv 
with a large party from his castle at Berry. \ The 
Church is dedicated to St. John the Baptist, and 
measures 139 feet by 43. The stately tower is Gothic, 
engrafted on a Norman foundation, as the beautiful 
Norman doorway to the belfry shows. The roof of another 
entrance to the Church is richly groined. The Church 
has a large and airy appearance, but the six arches on 
either side of the nave are peculiarly plain. The columns/ 
* Lysons and Prince. f Eccks. Antiq. 



234 ANTIQUITIES 

are also plain, and are much gone over towards the yard 
by the spreading of the roof, in consequence of a want 
of iron ties, with which the Gothic architects appear to 
have been unacquainted.! The windows are diversified 
in the tracery ; and some of them are of the most elegant 
design. The oak screen has been sacrificed, but some, 
remains of it are still visible in the north aisle, and among 1 
the pews. In the Kirkham chantry is an elaborate and! 
truly magnificent monumental screen of freestone, with 
which, as Mr. Oliver observes, "barbarism has been 
suffered to riot with impunity." Under each of the two 
splendid arches are the mutilated effigies of a knight and 
his lady ; the base and the piers are superbly ornamented 
with small statues of saints all within canopied niches, 
which are curiously hollowed out from the surface of the 
stone. Those of the base are surmounted by mural 
battlements ; and those above the arches, by figures of 
angels holding shields of the form used in the time of 
Edwd. IV. One of the figures over the entrance is that of a 
warrior with his left hand resting on his sword. We regret 
to say that this splendid relic of art and piety is surmounted: 
with a modern escutcheon bearing the arms of Parker. 

O ! miseri, quae tanta insania, cives ! 
Within the chantry is the tomb of the Kirkhams, and their 
armorial shields. It bears the cross and crown ; under 
the former is the inscription Spes et, and under the 
latter Corona. The figures of the knight and lady are 
in a praying attitude. One of the shields has six quar-i 
terings, including Kirkham, Dennis, &c. The inscrip-i 
tions are now concealed by the seating. The poetical 
effusion to the memory, we believe, of Gulielmus Kirkham, 
thus commences, 

This worthy knight whose corps in tombe doth lye 

Hath and deserves a noble memory. 
In the north aisle, corresponding with this chapel, was 
another chantry ; the screen was wood. The Pulpit in 
this Church is splendidly carved, and painted with rich 
but quiet and harmonious colours. The five niches which 
had been closed up with mortar were restored by the 
Rev. F. Belfield of Primley. The figures in the three most 
f Communicated by Mr. Brown, Architect. 



m 

Ridgeway 




Carew. 




Mohun. 



w 



Palk. 




Pulpit at .Paignton. 




m 

Mallock. 





Norman Doorway of 
Paignton Tower. 




Cary. 




Haccombe. 



Tor Abbey. 



Pomeroy. 



[Panorama of Torquay, 1 832.] 



ANTIQUITIES 235 

perfect are represented in the accompanying engraving; 
the centre is the blessed Redeemer on the Cross, at the 
at the foot of which is the Lamb, the figure in the niche 
on the left appears to have borne a scroll. These, like 
the Kirkham screen, were all more or less defaced by 
Cromwell's party : Splendid as they still are, it is pain- 
ful even to think of the wantonness of the period when 
these " sacred shrines 

And temples consecrate, were public marts 
Of profligate debasement." 
In a window of the north aisle are the arms of Bishop 
Lacy, who granted forty days indulgence to all penitents 
contributing to the support of the Church. In the wall, 
concealed and mutilated by a pew, is a stone skeleton — 
" a memento of mortality, says Mr. Oliver, not 
unfrequently placed in our churches during the 15th and 
I6th centuries." There is an escutcheon bearing the 
following inscription — " Heire lyeth the Heart and 
Bowels of the Right Honourable, most worthy, and highly 
esteemed John Snellen, Rear Admiral of Holland and 
West Friesland, who dyed the xxiiii of August mdcxci." 
His arms are, sable, two greyhounds argent; crest, a grey- 
hound, of the second. The Font is octagonal, plain. The 
Altar-Piece is of richly carved mahogany, with columns, 
between Corinthian and Composite. Underneath is an 
inscription which tells us that it was " Erected at the 
expense of Mrs. Jane Finney, of Blagdon, 1795. The 
Registers begin with 1559; that of marriages 18th Sept.; 
of baptisms, 12th Nov.; and of burials, 21st Nov. There 

ire memorials in the church for Matthew Finney, Esq. 

1731; Protodorus Finney, Esq. of Blagdon, 1734; 

Han Belfield, Esq. 1800 ; Thomas Willes, M. D. 1809; 

•'ranees Mary Shard, the late possessor of Torbay House, 

[819 ; &c. &c. In the yard is the upright of the ancient 
Cross, at the foot of which it was the custom, in former 
times, to lay the corpse, while the Priest performed from 
its pediment part of the service for the dead. 

V. Marldon. — We are indebted for the following parti- 
culars relative to the Church, to the Rev. Geo. Oliver. 

" This church, dedicated to St. John the Baptist, and 
dependant on Paignton, is seated on the side of a hill, 



236 



ANTIQUITIES 



and measures in its inside length including the tower 90 
feet, and in breadth 42|. Tradition says that it was 
built by the Gilbert family ; they certainly presented 
both to the church and its perpetual chantry: it is 
evidently the work of the 15th century. It consists of a 
chancel, a nave connected with a south aisle by seven 
arches, with a north aisle by five arches, and of a tower 
which rises about 90 feet high. Every observer must 
remark the additions and alterations introduced into the 
fabric since its first foundation. The stone screen is 
for the most part preserved, but has been moved upwards 
in the chancel. Over the entrance door are the words 
Exaltata est sancta Dei genetrioe super choros ange- 
lorum ad ccelestia regna. Above the screen has been 
hoisted a frightful erection of wood- work ; several of the 
windows have been repaired in defiance of every rule of 
ancient propriety ; and whitewash has been suffered to 
clot and bury the bold and beautiful sculpture of the 
capitals. The Registers of weddings begin 29th July, 
1598 ; of baptisms. 7th July, 1602 ; of burials, 2nd Feb. 
1604." The arms of the Gilberts of Compton Castle 
were emblazoned in many of the windows. There is also 
the family monument, with an effigies, smaller than 
life, but much mutilated ; another for (Egerus Gilbert, 
1661; and memorials for John Peter, Esq., 1626; 
Abraham Peter, Esq., 1632 ; Sir Edward Cary,f 1654; 
Yard Eastley, of Stantor, 1J3J ; John Eastley, 1J93; 

&c. &c. 

VI. Brixham. Ulf possessed this manor in the reign 
of Edward the Confessor, and Juhel de Totnais, at the 
time of Domesday survey. It belonged subsequently to 
the Novants, •' from whom, says Mr. Lysons, it passed 
by conveyance to the Valletorts ; the co-heiresses of the 
last-mentioned family brought it to Pomeroy and Corbet. 
The Bonvilles afterwards became possessed of it; from 
them it descended to Grey, Duke of Suffolk, and by his 

f The impropriate Rectories of Mary Church and Paignton were 
sequestered from Sir Edward Cary, Recusant, in the time of the 
Commonwealth, and Mr. Oliver has preserved an order dated 
June 2, 1652, directing £50. to be paid out of the overplus profits, 
of the Rectories so sequestered, " for increase of maintenance of 
William. Randal, Minister of Berry Pomeroy." 



ANTIQUITIES 



237 



attainder became vested in the Crown." It was subse- 
quently divided into quarters, one of which came to the 
heirs of the late Duke of Bolton ; another to Charles 
Hayne, Esq. and John Seale, Esq. of Mount Boone ; 
another to Charles Hayne, Esq. and the Gillards ; and 
the fourth ( once the property of the Pomeroys ) to 
twelve yeomen of Brixham. The town was included, 
we believe, in this last portion, and although the shares 
have been much sub-divided, the proprietors all call 
themselves Quay Lords. The Church of Upper Brix- 
ham has been already noticed ( p. 142) it contains a 
cenotaph for the late Mr. Justice Buller, with a Latin 
inscription; and memorials for Yarde, Upton, and Fownes, 
Anthony Upton 1669; John Upton, Esq. of Lupton 
1687; John Upton, Esq. 1690 ; Edwaid Yarde 1710 ; 
John Fownes, Esq. 1733. The following* is FlavePs 
inscription to Mr. Upton ; it is engraved on a brass plate, 
aud surmounted by a crown of righteousness. " To the 
pious memory of John Upton, Esq. a saint excellent on 
earth and now glorious in heaven, who was borne on 
earth April 7» 1590, and was translated to Heaven 
Sep. 11, 1641. 

Thinke not this single grave holds one alone, 
Many good men lie buried in this one : 
And though his life not long on earth appears, 
Hee ye good workes brought forth of many yeares : 
Swift to do good, his time he did improve, 
Industrious, active, and made all of love. 
Others do good by fits and in a mood, 
But this man's constant trade was doing good. 
Wisdome in him was joyned with devotion, 
And both adorned with sweetest conversation. 
Hee had no private nor self-seeking hart, 
As those that thinke the whole made for a part ; 
But by an universall spirite led, 
Which breathes into ye church from Christ her head, 
Hee loved ye whole, to it himself Hee gave, 
And in ye good thereof his good would have. 
Since then that spirite of Christ in him did live, 
That spirite to Him a glorious life doth give ; 
And as to it in plenty Hee did sow, 
A plenteous glory now to him shall grow ; 
And thou who mournest that Hee is not with thee 
Bee like him, and in blisse thou shalt him see." 

* Communicated by the Rev. H. F. Lyte. 



238 ANTIQUITIES. 

In the Church of Lower Brixham is a mural tablet to 
Miss Smart, with some very beautiful lines, from the 
pen, we believe, of the accomplished Incumbent. Lvp- 
ton in this parish belonged to the ancient family of 
Peniles;* whose heiress in the loth century brought it 
to the Uptons, who possessed it for many generations. 
Charles Hayne, Esq. sheriff in 1772, rebuilt the mansion, 
and about 17^8, sold it to Sir Francis Buller, the Judge. 
It is now the residence of his descendant John Buller 
Yarde Buller, Esq. Upton was purchased of the family 
of Fortye by Montague Booth, Esq. about the close of 
the last century ; it is now the property and residence of 
George Cutler, Esq. There was formerly a chapel at 
this place. Neihway was brought by an heiress of the 
Coles to Sir John Hody, chief Justice of the King's 
Bench in the reign of Henry VI. His descendants about 
1696, sold it to John Fownes, Esq. ancestor of John 
Fownes Luttrell, Esq. the present proprietor, see p. 143. 
Netbway had formerly a chapel. 

VII. Dartmouth. — This manor till the reign of 
Edward 1. passed as parcel of the barony of Totnes.| 
It is now, we believe, in the hands of the corporation. 
The manor of South-town, including St. Petrox, passed 
through the possession of Fitzstephen, Fleming, Mohun, 
Carew and South cote, from whom it came to Col. Seale, 
the proprietor of the Manor of Townstall. The South- 
cotes had a mansion behind St. Petrox church. " Here- 
tofore, says Prince, was a chain, which reached from 
one side to the other, which in time of war was front 
to be set up to prevent any invasion of the enemy." 
At the close of the 15th century Edward IV. entered 
into a covenant with the corporation of Dartmouth 
whereby they agreed to build " a stronge, and myghty, 
and dei'ensyve uewe towyr and bulwarke of lime and 
stone," for the protection of the place, to " garnish 
it with guns" &c, and find a chain to be laid across 
the mouth of the haven from one tower to the other. 
In consideration of this they were to receive an annual 
grant from the crown of £ZQ. We have not much to 
* Lysons, p. 72. X Ibid. 



ANTIQUITIES. 239 

add to the account of the antiquities of Dartmouth, given 
at page 152. In the chancel of St. Saviour's is the tomb 
of John Hawley, a rich merchant and representative of 
the town, in the reign of Henry IV. The ruins of his 
mansion, called Hawley's Hall, are mentioned by Leland 
as remaining in his time in Hardnesse. On brass plates 
on a slab is the figure of Hawley as a knight in plate 
armour with his mail gorget, "between his two wives, 
taking hold of the hand of one with his right hand, and 
having the left on his belt ; a lion at his feet, and two 
dogs at the feet of each of the ladies." The original date, 
1408, is now defaced. One of the ladies was the heiress 
of the unfortunate Sir Robert Tresylian, the celebrated 
Judge. We have always been struck with the similitude 
of Dartmouth harbour to that of Fowey, in Cornwall. 

VIII. Banks of the Dart. — Mount Boone, was for- 
merly the seat of the Boones, at whose extinction about 
the close of the 17th century, it was purchased by the 
ancestors of Col. Seale, the present proprietor. It was 
fortified with 22 pieces of cannon during the civil wars, 
and was taken by Coi. Pride. Greenway in the parish 
of Churston Ferrers was the old inheritance of the 
Gilberts of Compton Castle, having previously belonged 
to the family of Greenway. It was the birth place of 
the celebrated Sir Humphrey Gilbert. It subsequently- 
passed to theRoopes, and from them to the Eltons, Bullers, 
and Taylors. The modern mansion contains some good 
paintings. The parish of Churston Ferrers takes its name 
from the family of Ferrers. The old mansion at Churston 
was inhabited about twelve years ago by the son of Lord 
Vernon. The church is an appendant to Brixham, and 
is served by the Incumbent, or his curate. Watton once 
belonged to a family of that name, from whom, by 
female heirs, it passed to Fissacre and Holway, who held 
it in the reign of Charles 1. It is now the property of 
Henry Studdy Esq. — Watton Court, the residence of 
Mr. Studdy, has a small chantry chapel, with font, &c* 
and a burying ground attached to it. It was founded 
by the Holways, who endowed it with lands. Sandridge 
in ancient times had "lords called after its own name.'* 
Stephen de Sandridge held here three parts of a knight's 



240 ANTIQUITIES. 

fee of the bishop of Exeter, as early as Kins: Henry 2<Ts 
time. It continued in their hands for nearly 200 years, 
when it became the property and residence of a branch 
of the Pomeroys of Berry Castle. From them it passed 
to the Gilberts who sold it in 1770 to the late Lord Ash- 
burton. It was the birthplace of John Davies, the naviga- 
tor. Sharpham, in the parish of Ashprington, was 
the residence of Robert Winard in the time of Henry 
IV. from whom it passed by marriage through the hands 
of French and Prideaux, to the family of Drew. It was 
long the residence of this family, and was the birthplace 
of Mr. Sergeant Drew, an eminent lawyer and recorder 
of London in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. It is now 
the property of Capt. Bastard. 

IX. Totnes. — This manor was given by William the 
Conqueror to Juhel, who took the name of de Totnais. 
"He seated himself in a castle of his own erecting, now 
long since demolished," and was banished by William 
Rufus, when his estates were alienated. They came 
again, however, in part to his descendants, and after a 
variety of changes to the Seymours, Dukes of Somerset; 
they alienated the property in 1655, and again purchased 
it in 1764. It now remains with them. Sir Richard 
Edgecombe who held part of the property in the 16th 
century gave the manor of the borough to the corporation. 
The outer walls of JuhePs castle still remain. He also 
founded a celebrated priori/ at Totnes, dedicated to St. 
Mary, as a cell to the great Benedictine Abbey of Sts. 
Sergius and Bacchus, at Angers. The Churches of 
Totnes, Clyfton and Brixham, were in its gift. Bishop 
Bronescombe dedicated the conventual Church in 1260 ; 
and Bishop Stapeldon frequently conferred ordinations 
in it. — There was a Chantry on the bridge, and a Chapel 
of the holy Trinity and of St. Catherine at Warlond near 
the town erected in 1270. f 

Totnes is a place of high antiquity; and tradition, we 
have already said, has made it the landing place of Bru- 
tus. "It paid no tribute, as we find in Doomesday, says 
Camden, but when Exceterpaid; and then ityeelded xld. 
and did service if any expedition marched by land or went 
f Mr. Oliver's Collections. 



ANTIQUITIES. 241 

by sea; and Totnes, Barnestaple, and Lidford, served 
and paid as much as Exceter." Risdon follows the 
opinion of Leland, and thinks that the town was formerly 
called Dodonesse or the rocky town, subsequently corrup* 
ted into Totnes. It was formerly surrounded w T ith 
walls, and it had four gateways, the eastern and northern 
of which with their arches are still nearly entire ; and 
tradition tells us that the sea formerly flowed up to the 
eastern boundary of the town. Aurelius Ambrosius and 
Uter Pendragon, sons of Constantine, after having fled 
into Brittany from the tyranny of Vortigern, are said to 
have returned to Totnes, where they collected forces and 
pursued their oppressors into Wales. It w r as one of the 
minting towns of Devon, in the Anglo-Saxon era. Prince 
says that it was made a corporation by King John, and 
iuvested with many immunities by Henry III.; and "of 
so great consideration was it heretofore, that the shore 
adjoining was thereof called Totonesium littus." The 
same author mentions that so much sand was brought 
down the river by the water from the tin-works of Dart- 
moor, that Totnes haven was choked up and spoiled, and 
that Dartmouth then began to flourish. These injuries to 
the Devonshire rivers were afterwards restrained by act 
of parliament. Totnes Church is a highly interesting 
but incongruous fabric, belonging to the 15th century. 
It consists of a nave and two aisles, a porch on the south 
and a modern transept on the north. The south side of 
the building has an embattled parapet, with four 
modernized windows. Over the doorway of the porch 
is a small single mullioned window which lights the 
record room. On the tympanum of its pediment are 
three shields, on one of which we still trace the arms of 
the corporation. The north side exhibits a sad spectacle 
of modern taste. The handsome chancel window has 
given place to a small Roman palladian, but on the 
north and south sides of the chancel are two recent 
Gothic windows which show more regard for the original 
character of the fabric. The tower is stately and 
picturesque ; it rises above 100 feet supported by two 
buttresses on each side, ascending to the embattled 
summit, which terminates with four octagonal, embattled 

y 



242 ANTIQUITIES, 

turrets, surmounted with bold polygonal, crocketed 
pinnacles. In the centre canopied niche on the south 
front of this tower is the head of a Bishop (perhaps 
Lacy), and underneath, the words I built this Tower. 
The windows harmonize well with the wretched taste 
displayed in those of the Church ; it is, however, pleasing" 
to see the handsome red sand-stone Avails free from i 
detestable whitewash. The length of the interior is 101 
feet; the width of the aisle from wall to column I Oft. 10; 
and of the nave in clear of columns 21ft. 8. The nave 
communicates with the aisles by four columns and five 
arches composed of parabolic Gothic curves, obtuse at 
the crowB. The galleries do not improve the appearance 
of the Church. The glory of this building is the truly 
magnificent and gorgeous screen; extending to one half 
the chancel. It is of stone, and is composed of three 
divisions of canopies; in the apertures are arabesque 
Gothic heads, with crooked finials, and pointed arches 
above, filled in with richly diversified ramifications, and 
intermixed with heads of angels, animals, and birds ; the 
upper part i^s crowned with four ribs, gilt bosses, and 
multangular tracery. The appearance of this screen is 
beautiful beyond description ; it is delicately painted in 
stripes of blue, grey, green, and vermilion; and the 
crockets, finials, and bosses are gilt in the ancient manner. 
The rood-loft still remains, but it is in three divisions, badly 
got upj and in miserable taste. At the north end of the gal- 
lery is a valuable library containing many rare theological 
works in Hebrew, Greek, Syriac, Chaldsean, and Latin. 
The Pulpit is stone, and painted, and divided by two 
tiers of Gothic pannels, in each of which is a stone shield, 
with the following emblematical devices. 1 . a lion 
couchant ; 2. a ship under sail ; 3. a laden ass resting; 
4. a serpent coiled, with the head erect ; 5. a golden 
tankard ; 6. a camelopard ; 7- a black ox ; 8. a fruit 
tree; 9. a wolf rampant; 10. rivers of water; 11. a 
swan; 12. a lion rampant. The Font is coeval with 
the pulpit ; it is octangular, and stands on a shaft 
ornamented with pannels ; and the upper part with 
quatrefoils. The altar-piece is Grecian ! The Aldermen's 
seats in front of the screen, were erected in J e reign of 



ANTIQUITIES. 243 

Charles II.; the upper pannels are carved in the style of 
Queen Elizabeth.* About thirty years ago, the roof of 
the small room over the porch was beat in by the fall of 
the south east pinnacle in a storm of lightning-. This 
led to a curious discovery ; two chests were found full of 
old records, some of them dated at the Episcopal Palace 
at Chudleigh, by Bishop Lacy. One of these documents 
granted forty days indulgence to all contributors towards 
rebuilding the Church. The chests have been sold, and 
the records, it is said, have been destroyed ! 



X. Stoke-in-Teignhead Church. — This cruciform 
fabric has the traditional reputation of great antiquity. 
There is a flat monumental stone in it to the memory of 
Furlong, A.D. 1614; This ancient family possessed the 
property by marriage with one of the coheiresses of the 
venerable family of Seward, who lived at Gabwell. 
The tower contains four bells ; the screen remains, as 
does that at Combe. 

The "Church House" in the parish of Combe is 
supposed to have been the ancient alms-house founded 
by the Bourchiers, Earls of Bath. Buckland Baron in 
the same parish belonged as early as the reign of Henry 
II. to the family of Baron, and subsequently to the 
Hockmores, whose memorials are still visible in the 
Church ; the earliest being for George Hockmore, Esq. 
HH3. Ringmore Church is said to have been built 
by the Carews. Shaldon is in the parish of St. Nicholas, 
where there is a small modern chapel. 

XI. Ford House. — Sir Richard Reynell, a younger 
son of the Ogwell family, and an eminent lawyer in the 
reign of James I., acquired considerable property from 
an office held by him in the Exchequer, and purchased 
Ford in the parish of Woiborough where he " built a very 
neat and fair house," which came into the hands of Sir 
William Waller, the parliamentary general, by marriage 
with Sir Richard's only daughter and heiress. The 
daughter of Sir William Waller conveyed it to the 
Courtenays, Earls of^Devon, by marriage with Sir William 
Courtenay, of Powderham. Sir William Waller appears 

* Condensed from the MS. of Mr. Brown. 



244 ANTIQUITIES 

to have resided there during- the Protectorate. Ford 
has been three times the abode of royalty. On the loth 
Sept. 1625, it was visited by Charles the First, with the 
Duke of Buckingham and other Nobles, who ■* took up 
their lodgings there. Thursday after dinner, continues 
Prince, his Majesty conferred the honour of knighthood 
in the dining-room of that house, on Sir Richard Reynell 
of West Ogwell, and on Thomas Reynell, his brother, 
who at that time was his Majesty's servant and server in 
ordinary to his person, in presence of their wives and 
divers lords and ladies, saying then ' God give you joy.' 
After that he went on to Plymouth and returned to Ford 
the 24th of the same month, and the Sunday following 
his Majesty went to Woolborough or Ulborough Church." 
Mr. Chappie has preserved a copy of the entertainment 
on these occasions, which will be also found in Lysons 
p. 566. In 1688 it was made the temporary residence 
of the Prince of Orange, after his landing at Brixham. 



XII. Newton. — Mr. Oliver finds mention made of 
St. Leonard's Chapel in Newton Abbot, in Bishop 
Grandisson's register ; the document bears date 29th 
May, 1350. It consists of a nave with an embattled 
tower; and contains nothing of particular interest. The 
Chapel of Newton Bushell has been already said to be 
rich in antiquarian attractions. We mean the eastern 
window, which has fortunately escaped the fate of many 
of our other ecclesiastical relics. " It was formerly, 
says Mr. Oliver, adorned with six statues ; the inner 
moulding is charged alternately with the horse shoe, the 
device of the Ferrers, and the water bouget of the Yardes ; 
it deserves to be engraved.*' There is a tower at the end 
of the south aisle. 



XIII. Haccombe was once held by a family of that 
name, whose heiress brought it to Sir John Archdeacon ; 
By a marriage with one of the heiresses of this family, 
it came to Sir Hugh Courtenay, with the elder of whose 
daughters it passed to Nicholas Lord Carew, with whose 
descendants it remains. Thos. Carew, of Haccombe, 
was created a Baronet in 1661. The privileges assigned 



ANTIQUITIES 245 

to Hacconibe are much exaggerated, but Mr. Oliver, 
as usual, has given us correct information respecting it. 
He states that it is an archpresbytery founded by Sir John 
L'Ercedekne, about 1342, and augmented by Bishop 
Grandisson ; placed under the direction of an archpriest 
and 6 socii, who wei e to live under the same roof ; but the 
superior could claim no exemption from the jurisdiction of 
his Ordinary, nor of the Archdeacon of Totnes. The small 
Church is an interesting fabric. The lancet windows 
evidently belong to the twelfth or thirteenth century ; 
but the Church was again dedicated in 1328 by Bishop 
Grandisson. In the south wall of the chancel is the 
effigies of a crusader beariug the arms of Haccombe ; 
his armour is costly and richly inlaid with ornament. 
Under an obtuse arch in the north aisle is the effigies in 
free-stone of a lady of the Haccombe family ; and a 
second under another arch. Between the chancel and 
north aisle is a large altar-tomb, bearing the effigies of 
Sir Hugh Courtenay, and his lady the heiress of L'Erce- 
dekne. It is of free-stone. He is represented in plate 
armour ; with the crest of Courtenay under his head, 
and a lion at his feet. The lady has a dog at her feet, 
and a reticulated head-dress. The other tombs are highly 
ornamented. Mr. Oliver thinks that the raised tomb, 
under the second window, inscribed with a long cross, 
covers the remains of the Uev. Robert de Pyl, a benefactor 
mentioned in the foundation deed. The manor house 
was rebuilt by Sir Thomas Carew, in 1650. " From 
the house (whose form and figure pleadsfgreat antiquity), 
the present habitation of that eminently pious lady 
Gratiana, Lady Carew, through a green court under a 
canopy of laurel we walk, says Prince, into the Church, 
on whose door may be seen two of the four shooes of a 
horse, which a gentleman of the Carew family swam a 
prodigious way into the sea and back again v upon a wager 
of a mannor of land, and won it; for which the horse 
was deservedly manumitted from all future services ever 
after, and his shooes fastened to the church door, where 
some of them yet remain, in perpetuam rei memorianv' 

IV. Coffinsweli*. — This manor was formerly called 



246 ANTIQUITIES 

Well, and took the former name from the family of 
Coffin, to which it once belonged. At the death of the 
last heir male of the Coffins, a portion of the manor was 
purchased by the Abbot of Tor. Daccombe also belonged 
in ancient times to a family of that name, and was pre- 
sented by them to Tor Abbey. Mr. Oliver asks if th e 
Holbrines, whose leger stone is in St. Mary Church, 
did not reside at the Barton near Coffinswell Church ? 
This little fabric is a daughter Church to St. Mary Church. 
In a window of the north aisle is a figure of the Virgin, 
with a label ' Ave Maria plena gracia.' The font is 
ancient, but the screen has been destroyed. 

XV. Berry Posieroy. — The Church was founded by 
one of the Pomeroys ; their arms are frequently seen, 
both single and impaled, in the glass of the windows and 
in the stone roof of the porch. Some of the windows 
are ancient, others modern and of very different designs. 
The capitals of the columns have undulatory Ribbons, 
with inscriptions in old English. The screen is very 
ancient, superbly painted in the ancient style ; the top | 
is enriched with fan tracery like that of Totnes Church. 
The ceiling is vaulted and ribbed in the usual way, into 
square pannels, with the exception of a part in the nave 
near the Altar, which is formed into hexagonal coffers, 
evidently the remains of the ancient ceiling.* Under an 
obtuse arch is an altar tomb ornamented with quatrefoils, 
bearing the arms of Pomeroy impaling Ashton. There 
are also some handsome monuments of the Seymour 
family ; Lord Edward Seymour, 1593, his son Sir Ed- 
ward Seymour, Bart. 1613, and Elizabeth Champer- 
nowne his lady. This monument is very splendid. The 
knight and his son are in armour ; the former lies cross- 
legged ; the lady is habited in a black dress, and has 
near her head the figure of an infant in its cradle ; 
another with a fine cap in a chair at her feet ; and below, 
five male and four female children with books before 
them. Lastly but not least, there is the grave-stone 
of John Prince, Author of the worthies of Devon, who 
was Vicar for 42 years. The stone lies on the north 

* Communicated by Mr, Brown. 



ANTIQUITIES 247 

side of the chancel, near the monument of the Seymours, 
and has this inscription •• In memory of the Revd. John 
Prince, A. M. Vicar of this parish and Author of the 
Worthies of Devon ; he was instituted in the year 1681, 
and died on the 9th day of Septr. 1723. Also of the 
Rev. Joseph Fox, A. M. successor to the above ; he 
died on the 1st day of Feby. 1781, aged 88." 

XVI. King's Kerswell. — In the reign of Henry III. 
Roger de Molis obtained for this place a market and fair. 
It passed from this family to Courtenay and Dinham. 
The Church has some handsome monuments to the 
Dinhams ; — a rich, but mutilated altar-tomb, bearing 
the effigies of a man with a pointed helmet, mail-gorget, 
and surcoat, on which are the Dinham arms ; and that 
of a lady with a coronet ; her gown has a splendid and long 
stomacher. These figures represent Sir John Dynham, 
and his wife, Jane, daughter of Sir Thomas Courtenay, 
(1387.) In the same aisle is another female effigies on 
an altar-tomb, with a reticulated head-dress, two angels 
at her head, and a wyvern at her feet. (V. Lysons vol. i. 
where the first is engraved). This church has suffered 
much from wanton barbarism; " it is sickening, says 
Mr. Oliver, to behold the mutilation of monuments so 
illustrative of the costume of the age, and to witness 
the successful havoc of the Daubers, who believe, that 
try what you please, there is nothing like lime, — and 
that heraldic achievements, foliage, veils, wimples, 
embroidery, lace-work, coronets, necklaces, and all the 
varieties of jewellery must be clotted and overloaded 
with detestable whitewash." 



XVII. Wolborough. — This manor formerly belonged 
to Tor Abbey, and was purchased in the reign of James I. 
by Sir Richard Reynell, of Ford. The spacious church 
occupies an elevated situation, and consists of a nave and 
two aisles communicating by six arches. The two cor- 
bels on the label mouldings over the exterior of the 
belfry window bear the head of a cat, and another of a 
horned owl. The south aisle is modern and bears the 
date M°Vc XVI. The screen remains. In one of the 
windows of the chancel are the arms of Courtenay, 



248 



ANTIQUITIES 



Yarde, Ferrers, Reynell, etc. In the capital of the 
column to which the pulpit is attached, there is a Boar- 
Pig, like the one in St. Mary Church, biting at a bunch 
of acorns ; on another capital a Bird pecking at grapes. 
A brass column of the candelabra form supports a brass 
Eagle on which the Book rests. It is said to have been 
found on Bovey heathfield. The capitals of the columns 
have lately been cleared from the encrusted whitewash. 
The granite font is very ancient, and carved. There is 
an altar-tomb here for Sir Richard Reynell, with the 
effigies of himself and lady. On the side is a reclining 
female figure, representing Margaret, daughter of Sir 
William Waller, the general. King Charles I. attended 
divine service in this church during his stay at Ford, in 
1625. There is a curious account, over one of the pews, 
of the qualifications of those entitled to the widow's 
charity at Newton. 

XVIII. East Ogwell.— Part of this village was des- 
troyed by fire in 1595. The manor was once the property 
and residence of the Reynells, an ancient family, who 
emigrated to this county fiom Cambridgeshire in the 
reign of Richard II. The Church has nothing to com- 
mand particular attention. The transept contains the 
monument of Sir Richard Reynell of West Ogwell, Feb. 
12, 1648, and another monument of the same family. 



XIX. West Ogwell. — Sir Thomas Reynell of East 
Ogwell built the mansion now occupied by Col. Taylor ; 
it was begun, March 17, 1589. The Church is cruci- 
form, and is not very interesting ; Mr. Lysons notices 
the screen of the rood loft as being particularly rich, 
and mentions three stone stalls with trefoil arches upon 
detached columns. The Pulpit has the appearance of 
antiquity. 

XX. Deneury, Torbryan, and Ipplefen. — The 
Abbot of Tavistock procured from K. Edward I. a weekly 
market and an annual fair for Denhury, in 1285.* The 

* Lysons: We have been much indebted to Mr. Lysons's Devon } . 
in. these sketches of the parochial history of our district. 



ANTIQUITIES 249 

camp has been already mentioned. The Church contains 
nothing of particular interest. 

Torbryan belonged to the family of Bryan in the time 
of Henry II. It was in the hands of the Earls of North- 
umberland in 1528, and afterwards of the families of 
Kitson and Petre. The lords of the manor had formerly 
the privilege of inflicting capital punishment. The church 
has a rich wooden screen, gilt and painted, and an an- 
cient enriched pulpit. There is a monument to William 
Fitzpetre or Fitzpierre of Tor Newton 1614. The an- 
cient mansion of the Bryans was situated near the church. 

The monastery of St. Peter at Fulgers had a cell at 
Ipplepen, The manor belonged to the family of St. 
Armand, one of whom procured for the place a market 
and two annual fairs about 1317. Sir Thomas Kitson 
held it after the Reformation ; his grand-daughter brought 
it to Earl Rivers. It was sold in severalties in 1658, 
by Sir John Pettus. The Church. Mr. Lysons says, 
belonged to the Abbey of St. Peter at Fulgers. The 
sides are supported by four embattled towers and three 
buttresses at the angles. It has a handsome pulpit and 



XXI. — Abbot's Kerswell takes its name from the 
Abbot of Tor to whom it formerly belonged ; and is so 
called in contradistinction to King's Kerswell which 
derives its title from having been vested in the crown at 
the time of Domesday survey. The Church was once 
not deficient in beauty, it consists of a chancel and nave 
communicating with a north aisle by four arches. The 
screen remains, and bears the tables of the Decalogue. 



XXII. Dartington Church has large pointed win- 
dows, battlements, and a tower. In the painted glass 
are the arms of Holland Duke of Exeter. On the hand- 
some monument of the Champernownes are the kneeling 
figures of a man in armour, and four males and five 
females with the arms of the families into which they 
married. Under a trefoil-headed arch is a small effigy, 
with curled hair and a long gown. Mr. Lysons mentions 
the screen of the roodloft as being particularly rich. 



250 ANTIQUITIES. 

XXIII. Ugbrooke. — This was once the property and 
residence of the Precentors of Exeter Cathedral. Mr. 
Lysons thinks it probable that it was alienated in the 
reign of Edward VI. to Sir Peter Courtenay, from whom 
it came to the Cliffords in the 16th century, by the marriage 
of Anne, his daughter, to Antony Clifford, Esq., of Bors- 
combe, Wilts. Sir Thomas Clifford, the Lord Treasurer, 
was elevated to the peerage by the title of Baron Clifford 
of Chudleigh, 22d April, 1672. His monument is in 
the chapel of the mansion. " Ugbrook, says Prince, is 
a pleasant and noble seat, much enlarged, with the 
addition of a curious chapel and very useful apartments, 
and accommodated with a fair park, beautify'd and 
adorned with stately stables ; large walks beset with 
horse-chesnut, l'me, and other trees, which in their 
season yield a pleasant and fragrant entertainment to the 
passenger. " 

XXIV. It is beyond the scope of this work to cross 
the Teign, but it would be unpardonable were we to 
neglect to mention the richest relic of pure Saxon Archi- 
tecture in Devon, which the Antiquary will he pleased 
to find at Bishop's Teignton, near Teignmouth. No 
one interested in Church Architecture or Antiquities 
should leave the neighbourhood without visiting it. This 
splendid specimen of art is the Saxon Doorway, which 
Mr. Brown says, is the most beautiful he ever beheld. It 
bears grotesque heads of birds and beasts, with chevron 
and other mouldings ; these figures radiate round the 
archivault of the doorway. Mr. Oliver considers the 
circular font to be coeval with this fine relic. Nor 
should the tourist omit to visit the Church at Harberton, 
one mile beyond Totnes. It is a fine and handsome fabric. 
The Pulpit is richly ornamented with scrolls and vine 
leaves, and the figures of apostles in niches. The screen 
is interesting, as well as the circular Font. There are 
also three stone stalls much enriched. f 

T In the course of these researches into our Ecclesiastical Relics, 
the Antiquary will have frequent cause to regret the mutilation of 
the amllions in the windows of many Churches. This is constantly 
produced by the rust and expansion of the irons ; and it is not 
unworthy of remark that in the early days of Church Architecture, 



ANTIQUITIES. 251 

We beg to conclude this part of our work with the 
beautiful and touching prayerf of Cardinal Baronius, as 
a lesson to our modern Iconoclasts, and as an example 
of piety which others will do well to follow. In an 
ancient church at Rome which he had restored on the 
true principles of architectural taste, the father of eccle- 
siastical history caused the following impressive adjuration 
to be inscribed, with the 7,eai and humility of a Christian 
philosopher. 

§£BYTER, CARD. SUCCESSOR QUISQUIS FUERIS, 

ROGO TE, PER GLORIAM DEI, ET 

PER MERITA HORUM MARTYRUM, 

NIHIL DEMITO, NIHIL MINUITO, NEC MUTATO; 

RESTITUTAM ANTIQUITATEM PIE SERVATO ; 

SIC DEUS MARTYRUM SUORUM PRECIBUS 

SEMPER ADJUVET ! 



^crattrrjn 

Armorial Bearings of Families and Institutions 
noticed in this Book. 

Archdeacon or L'Ercedekne — Argent, 3 chevrons sable. 

Balle — A chevron between three fire balls. 

Baron of Buckland Baron — Arg. a chevron between 3 

human hearts, sable. 
Bastard— Or, a chevron azure, 
Brewer — Gules, 2 bends wavy, or. 
Brian — Or, 3 piles in point azure. 
Bourchier, Earl of Bath — Arg, a cross engrailed gules, 

between 3 water-bougets, sable. 
Buckfast Abbey — Sable, a crosier in pale, arg. the crook 

or, surmounted by a stag's head caboshed, arg.; 

horned gules. 

before cast iron was known, the wrought metal was so much 
employed in building that it has frequently hastened the destruction 
of those parts of the fabric which it was intended to protect. It ap- 
pears, however, that this characteristic failing of wrought iron was 
not unknown to our ancestors, for during the repairs of Henry VII's. 
Chapel at Westminster Abbey it was discovered that the bolts and 
cramps were all of copper ; and it is well known that Sir Chris- 
topher Wren employed cast-iron for the railing around St. Paul's. 

t See an able paper in the Foreign Quarterly. Jan. 1831, on 
Church Architecture, etc. 



252 



HERALDRY. 



Buller of Lupton — Quarterly of nine, sab. and az. — -in 
Nos. 2, 4, 6, and 8, an eagle displayed sable. 

Bussel or Bushel of Bradley— Arg. a chevron gules, 
between 3 water-bougets, sab. 

Carew — Or, 3 lions passant, sable. 

Cary — Argent, on a bend sable, 3 roses of the first. 

Champernowne— G. a saltier vaire between 12 billets, or. 

Chichester- — Cheeky, or and gules, a chief vaire. 

Clifford, Baron. — Cheeky, or and az, a fess gules. 

Cockington, of Cockington. — Arg. a chevron az. between 
3 cocks gules. 

Coffin, of Coffin's Well. — Az. semee of cross crosslets or, 
3 bezants. 

Compton, of Compton Castle — S. a chevron erm. be- 
tween 3 shovellers argent. 

Coplestone, — Arg. a chevron engrailed between 3 leo- 
pard's faces azure. 

Courtenay, Earl of Devon. — Or, 3 torteauxes, with a 
label of 3, azure. 

Dennis.— Erm. 3 Danish battle axes, erect, gules. 

Dinham. — G. 4 lozenges conjoined in fesse, erm. a 
border of the last. 

Drewe. — Ermine, a lion passant, gules 

Dunning, Lord Ashburton. — Bendy sinister of eight, or 
and V. a lion rampant sable. 

Englishville of Bradley. — G. on abend arg. 3 bendlets sab. 

Ferrers of Churston and Bradley. — Or, on a bend S. 
3 horse-shoes, arg.*, a mullet for difference. 

Fitz Martin. — Arg. 2 bars gules. 

Fownes of Nethway. — Az. 2 eagles displayed in chief; 
a mullet in base, arg. 

Gilbert of Compton. — Erm. on a chevron S. 3 roses arg. 

Haccombe. — Arg. 3 bends sable. 

Hockmore of Combe. — Per chevron, or and S. — in chief 
2 pair of sickles conjoined arg. handled or ; in base 
a moor-cock, bill and wattles gules. 

Hody of Nethway. — Arg. a fesse party, per fesse inden- 
ted, V. and S. between 2 cottises counterchanged. 

Holbrine. — A chevron ; in chief 3 torteauxes. 

Holland, Duke of Exeter. — Gules, 3 lions passant or, 
within a border azure, charged with fleur-de-lis of the 
second. 



HERALDRY 



25 3 



jKirkham. — Arg. 3 lions rampant, gules ; a border en- 
grailed sable. 

Louis of Cad well. — Az. a lion rampant ar. charged on 
the shoulder with an eagle displayed sable ; on a chief 
wavy erm. an anchor erect of the third, the shank sur» 
rounded with a naval crown, the rim az.«, stern and 
sails proper. 

Luttrell. — Or. a bend between 6 martlets sable. 

Mallock. — Per chevron engrailed, or and S., in chief 2 
pellets each charged with a fleur-de-lis of the first; in 
base a bezant charged with a fleur-de-lis of the second* 

Mohun. — Or. a cross engrailed, sable. 

Oxenham. — Gules, a fesse between 3 crescents or. 

Parker. — Sab. a stag's head caboshed, between 2 flaun* 
ches arg. 

Palk. — Sable, an eagle displayed arg, beaked and legged 
or ; a border engrailed of the second. 

Paulet. — 3 swords in pile, argent ; hilts or. 

Petre of Torbryan. — Gules, a bend or, between 2 escalop 
shells arg. 

Pole. — azure, semee de lis, or ; a lion rampant argent. 

Pomeroy. — Or, a lion rampant gules, a border invecked 
of the second. 

Reynell. — Argent, masonry, and a chief indented, sable. 

Ridgeway. — Sable, 2 wings conjoined in fesse, argent. 

St. Leger. — Azure, fretty, and a chief, arg. 

Seale. — Or, a fesse az. between 3 wolves' heads erased, 
sable. 

Seymour. — Gules, 2 wings conjoined in lure, tips down- 
wards, or. 

Southcote. — Arg. a chevron gules, between 3 coots 
proper. 

Speke. — Arg. 2 bars az. over all an eagle displayed with 
2 heads, or. 

Stawell. — Gules, a cross lozengy, argent. 

Taylor of Ogwell. — Sable, a lion passant, argent. 

Tor Abbey. — Gules, a chevron between 3 crosiers, or. 

Upton of Lupton. — Sable, a cross sarcely, argent. 

Yarde. — A chevron between 3 water-bougets. 



254 BlOGRAPH? 

PART VI. 



33t0cj;nqrf)»« 



BRIEF MEMOIRS OF EMINENT NATIVES, CONNECTED WITH 
THE SUBJECT OF THE PRECEDING PAGES.* 



Guy de Bryan, or Briant, standard bearer to 
Edward III. at the battle of Calais, was born at Tor- 
bryan, about the beginning of the 14th century. He 
was a distinguished warrior and ambassador during- the 
reign of that Prince, and of Richard the second ; and 
was made by the former a baron of Parliament. He 
founded a Collegiate church, with a perpetual chantry of 
five priests, and a rector, and four clerks, at Slapton, 
in honour of our Lady, about the year 1370. f 



Sir John Cary, chief baron of the Exchequer, was 
probably born at Cockington, and was the son, it is sup- 
posed, of Sir John, one of the members for the county. 
He was created chief Baron in 1387, and was one of the 
Judges who fell under the displeasure of the Duke of 
Gloucester and his party. He was sentenced to death, 
but was, by an unusual favour, banished to Waterford, 
as we have explained in the account of the antiquities of 
Cockington. He married the daughter of Sir Guy 
Bryan, the subject of the preceding memoir. His 
younger son, James, was created bishop of Exeter, by 
Pope Martin V. in 1419, and was also, perhaps, a native 
of Cockington. 

* We beg to refer the reader to the second vol. of the History 
and Topography of Devon by the Rev. Thomas Mooke, (now 
publishing,) for the most accurate, comprehensive, and interesting 
Biography of Natives of Devonshire yet published. We are happy 
in having this opportunity of expressing how largely this County 
is indebted to Mr. Moore for his zealous exertions, arduous re- 
search, and useful labours in the difficult and perplexing field of 
topographical History. His work on Devon will not only be 
valuable to this County, but will form a rich and elaborate addition 
to our national literature. 

f Seethe article Slapton in Mr. Oliver's Collections. 



BIOGRAPHY 255 

Sir John Hody was born, in the parish of Brixham, 
about the close of the 14th- century, and was appointed 
chief Justice of the King's Bench in 1440, He was a 
judge of inflexible integrity, and is said to have died of a 
broken heart, in consequence of the public clamour 
against him. for having conscientously pronounced con- 
demnation in some cases of high treason. 

Dr., afterwards Sir William, Petre was born at 
Tor Newton in the parish of Torbryan, and was one of 
an ancient family of that name, there resident. He was 
secretary of state to Henry VIII, Edward VI, Queen 
Mary, and Queen Elizabeth ; he was also several times 
ambassador at different foreign courts ; and one of the 
administration, during the regency of Queen Catharine 
Parr. Cromwell was one of his patrons, and appointed 
him. commissioner for visiting Monasteries, prior to the 
dissolution. In 1566, he established seven scholarships 
in Exeter College, Oxford, and lequeathed some pro- 
perty to that foundation. He obtained no small posses- 
sions from the spoils of the monasteries, and particularly 
from that at Buckfastleigh. He "procured, says Mr. 
Oliver, a considerable share of the manors appertaining 
to this abbey. And what is singular, he obtained of 
Pope Paul IV, (28 Dec. A. D. 1555.) a confirmation 
of this property. This gentleman was 'appointed in the 
27th year of Henry VIII, one of the commissioners to 
repair unto all the monasteries of England, and to make 
inquiry into the government and behaviour of the votaries 
of both sexes, that their enormities might be discovered, 
or rather that their houses might be dissolved, and their 
lands confiscated.'* That he was a time-serving politician, 
and callous to moral and religious principles when his 
interest was concerned, it would be folly to deny. But 
still he is much to be commended for his grateful attach- 
ment to Exeter College in Oxford, where he had' received 
his education ; as also for his resolution to resign all rec- 
tories, or appropriated tithes and glebes, to their first 

* See Bishop White Rennet's Parochial Antiqnities, p. 671 ; a 
work most admirable for its perspicuity, candour and elaborate 
research. Note ly Mr. Oliver. 



256 BIOGRAPHY 

spiritual uses ; and for his readiness to make immediate 
restitution for that purpose." 



Sir Humphrey Gilbert, the first coloniser of New- 
foundland, was born at Green way on the Dart, the 
ancient residence of his family, about 1540. He was 
educated at Eton and Oxford, and having" chosen a mili- 
tary life, he served with credit in the expedition to Havre 
in 1563. He was then invested with the chief com- 
mand in the province of Munster, and before leaving 
Ireland, was knighted by the lord deputy Sir H. Sydney* 
In 1571 be was returned to Parliament as member for 
Plymouth, but in the following- year was compelled to 
vacate his seat by being summoned to military service in 
the Netherlands. He next entertained a scheme for 
exploring the Arctic Seas, and published a work respect- 
ing it, entitled " a Discourse of a Discovery for a new 
passage to Cataia, 1576." This book is now exceedingly 
rare, and, although reprinted in Hakluyt's collection, a 
copy of it was marked in a catalogue for 1825, at the 
sum of .£85. He made an unsuccessful voyage to 
America; and on his return in 1577> he married a 
daughter of Sir Antony Ager, one of the maids of 
honour to Queen Elizabeth, from whom in 1578 he ob- 
tained a patent of unusual privileges. She granted him 
power to undertake voyages of discovery, and to possess 
and inhabit such unknown and remote lands as were not 
already held by other christian princes, and this grant 
was to be null and void if not acted upon within the 
space of six years. Accordingly in June 1583, he 
equipped a squadron of five ships from 10 to 200 tons> 
with a crew of 260 men and artificers. In order to 
charm the natives with the "sweet sounds of melody," 
they were provided with "music in good variety, not 
omitting the least toyes, as morrice dancers, hobby- 
horses, and May-like conceits, to delight the savage 
people, whom they intended to win by all fair means 
possible." On the 1 lth of the month, this gallant ad- 
venturer sailed from Cawsand Bay, Plymouth, and pro- 
ceeded direct to the northern parts of America and New- 
foundland, where they arrived on the 30th July. On 
entering St. John's, he took possession in the name of the 



BIOGRAPHY 257 

Queen of England and secured 200 leagues of land. The 
new territory was immediately parcelled out, and this 
celebrated colony was apparently established on a secure 
and lasting foundation. Sir Humphrey then proceeded 
in the Golden Hind of 40 tons, the Delight, and a small 
vessel ( called his frigate ) the Squirrel of ten tons, to 
make further discoveries to the southward. The Delight 
was soon lost among the shoals near Sable Island, and 
of 100 men on board, (among whom were the historian 
and mineralogist of the expedition) only twelve were 
saved. They now proposed to return to England, and 
although Sir Humphrey was repeatedly urged not to 
venture in his frigate, as she was by no means calculated 
for the voyage, he replied, " I will nut forsake my little 
company going homeward with whom I have passed so 
many storms and perils." After they had passed the 
Azores, they were overtaken by a tempest, and the, 
little vessel was almost buried in the waves. Her gallant 
commander was seen sitting in the stern with a book in 
his hand, and was heard by the seamen of the Hind en- 
couraging his comrades by exclaiming" " Courage my 
lads ! we are as near heaven by sea as by land." The 
same night the vessel, with all her ill-fated crew, was 
swallowed up by the sea. "Such was the unfortunate 
end of the, brave Sir Humphrey Gilbert, who may be 
regarded as the father of the Western colonization, and 
who was one of the chief ornaments of the most chival- 
rous era of English history." There can be no doubt 
that Sir Humphrey Gilbert, as the first coloniser of New- 
foundland, merits the highest rank among our naval- 
heroes. Hjs love of glory and honourable ambition, 
animated him with a thirst for foreign discovery; and 
while his talents fully qualified him for the enterprise in 
which he engaged, we find him entering on these adven- 
tures with that fortitude and spirit of research, Avhich 
gave the early English navigators such large advantages 
over their Spanish and Portuguese contemporaries. The 
mother of Sir Humphrey, by her second marriage, gave 
birth to another distinguished character of the Elizabethan, 
period, — the brave, accomplished, and unfortunate Sic; 
Walter Ralegh,* 

* Biog. Brit. Prince, Gortpn, Cab. Cycl. 



258 BIOGRAPHY. 

Adrian Gilbert, the younger brother of the prece- 
ding, was also a navigator of some celebrity, He procured 
from Queen Elizabeth in 1585, the privilege of making 
discoveries of a voyage to China and the Moluccas, by 
the north-westward, north-eastward, or northward. He 
was the patron of the subject of the following memoir, 
who did honour to his friendship by calling the first 
harbour in which he anchored on his northern expedition, 
Gilbert's Sound. Prince also speaks of his skill in mining. 

John Davis, the eminent navigator, was born at 
Sandridge on the Dart, about the middle of the 16th cen- 
tury. He undertook, in 1 585, an expedition for effecting' a 
north-west passage to the East Indies, and discovered 
the straits leading to Baffin's Bay, which still bear his 
name. He twice subsequently engaged in polar expe- 
ditions ; but like all his followers in that field of research, 
with the recent exception of Capts. Parry and Franklin, 
he failed in making any important discoveries. He accom- 
panied Cavendish in one of his voyages to the South Sea, 
and was killed off the coast of Malacca, in an engagement 
w 7 ith some Japanese, while serving under Sir Edward 
Michelbourne, Dec. 1605. He is said to have invented 
a quadrant for taking the sun's altitude at sea, which 
preceded the use of Hadley's sextant. He wrote some 
accounts of his voyages, and a work entitled "The 
World's Hydrographical Description."* 

Sir Thomas Ridgeway, first Earl of Londonderry, 
was born at Torwood manor-house, towards the close of 
the 16th century. He was knighted in 1600 by Queen 
Elizabeth ; and was created a Lord of the Privy Council, 
Treasurer of War, and Deputy Treasurer of Ireland, by 
James I. At the institution of the baronetcy, in 1611, 
Sir Thomas was immediately invested with the order, and 
was the second Devonian admitted to that dignity. For 
his eminent public services he was advanced, four years 
afterwards, to the Peerage, by the title of Baron Ridge- 
way of Galen Ridgeway in the county of Londonderry ; 
and in 1622, by that of Earl of Londonderry. He died 
in 1620, and was buried in the parish church ofTormohun, 

* Biog.Brit. 



BIOGRAPHY. 



250 



where he had previously erected a handsome monument 
to his father's memory. 

The Rev. Dr. Robert Cary, a celebrated writer on 
chronology, was born at Cockington in 1615. He was 
educated at Oxford, and took his degree of Doctor of 
Laws in 1644. On his return from his foreign travels, 
he was presented to the rectory of Portlemouth near 
Kingsbridge, by the Marquis of Hertford. During the 
civil commotions he joined the presbyterian party, but 
expressed so warm an attachment to Charles II. at the 
restoration, that he was created Archdeacon of Exeter. 
He was ejected from that office in 1664, and immediately 
retired to his living. He died in 1688. His work was 
entitled " Palceologia Chronica, a Chronological Account 
of Antient Time; in three parts; 1. Didactical; 2. 
Apodeictical ; 3. Canonical. London, 1667. "§ 

William (?) Newcommen, was born at Dartmouth 
about the middle of the 17th century, and is known for 
his useful labours in the advancement of the steam engine. 
He followed the trade of a locksmith in his native town, 
and having been pleased with the researches of the 
Marquis of Worcester and others, on the expansive force 
of steam, he commenced a series of scientific experiments, 
apparently incompatible with his condition in life. Capt. 
Savary had invented a small engine for draining the mines 
in Cornwall, but it was deficient in many important 
principles ; and it was the aim of Newcommen not only 
to improve upon this plan, but to strike out in another 
and more extended path. He constructed his machine 
with the cylinder, and overcame the difficulty of condensing 
the vacuum which had baffled his predecessors, by intro- 
ducing a jet of cold water to condense the vapour in the 
cylinder, as soon as the piston was sufficiently elevated 
by the steam ; so that it might fall again by its own 
weight. His experiments were successful, and the 
scientific skill by which they were marked, recommended 
him to the notice of Hooke, the mathematician, with 
whom he maintained a correspondence. But there was 
§ Biog\ Brit. Philos. Trans. No. 1. 



260 



BIOGRAPHY. 



one serious inconvenience attendant on this method, 
which continued tocontractthe utility of steam machinery; 
namely, the loss of time occasioned by the cooling- of the 
cylinder itself, during the condensation of steam, — 
and the subsequent loss of steam in restoring the 
the temperature of the cylinder, before the piston could 
reascend. This invention, however, was an important 
step in the great field of philosophy, and it preparecf the 
way for the magnificent discoveries of James Watt, for 
whom it was reserved to perfect and establish this most 
splendid ornament of human art. 



John Lethbridge, an ingenious machinist, of more 
merit and ability than many who have been better known, 
was born at Newton Abbot towards the end of the 17th 
century. We are indebted for the following particulars 
respecting him to Lysons's Devon, vol. II. " This 
gentleman appears to have been of the ancient family of 
his name. In a letter printed in the Gentleman's Maga- 
zine (vol XIX ), he states that, being much reduced in 
circumstances, and having a large family, he turned his 
thoughts to some extraordinary method of improving his 
fortune; and being prepossessed with the notion that it 
would be practicable to invent a machine to recover goods 
from wrecks lost in the sea, he made his first experiment 
in his orchard, at Newton Abbot, on the day of the great 
eclipse, in 1715, by going into a hogshead bunged up 
tight, in which he continued half an hour without any 
communication of air; he then contrived to place the 
hogshead under water^ and found that he could remain 
longer without air under water than on land ! His first 
experiment having been thus encouraging, he constructed 
his machine, with the assistance of a cooper in London. 
It was of wainscot well secured with iron hoops, with 
holes for the arms, and a glass of about four inches in 
diameter. It required 500 lbs. weight to sink it, lead 
being fixed to the bottom of the machine for that purpose; 
and the removal of 15 lbs. would bring it to the surface of 
the water. With this machine, Mr. Lethbridge says, he 
could move about twelve feet square at the bottom of the 
sea, where he frequently staid thirty-four minutes ; 



BIOGRAPHY. 261 

he bad frequently been for six hours at a time in the 
engine, being frequently brought up to to the surface, 
where he was refreshed with a pair of bellows. Many 
hundred times, he states, he had been ten fathom deep, 
and sometimes twelve fathom with difficulty. When his 
machine was finished, he offered his services to some 
merchants of London, to adventure on the wrecks of some 
treasure ships then lately lost ; but it was some time before 
he found any who had sufficient confidence in the success 
of his experiments to offer him terms at all adequate to his 
deserts and expectations ; but after his success had been 
proved, he was employed to dive on wrecks in various 
parts of the world, both for his own countrymen, and 
for the Dutch and Spaniards, He mentions, in his letter 
already quoted, that he dived on wrecks in the West 
Indies, at the Isle of May, at Porto Santo, near Madeira, 
and at the Cape of Good Hope. His most laudable en- 
deavours were so far crowned with success, that he was 
enabled not only to maintain his family, but to purchase 
the estate of Odicknoll, in the parish of King's Carsvvell, 
near Newton Abbot. At the house of his grandson, John 
Lethbridge, Esq., at Newton, is a board on which is an 
inscription in gold ietters, dated 1736, stating that John 
Lethbridge, by the blessing of God, had dived on the 
wrecks of four English men of war, one English East 
Indiaman, two Dutch men of war, five Dutch East 
Indiamen, two Spanish galleons, and two London gaUeys, 
all lost in the space of twenty years ; on many of them 
with good success ; but that he had been very near 
drowning in the engine five times. The apparatus, about 
twenty years ago, was at Governor Holdsworth's, at Dart-* 
mouth, but it was then in a decaying state. Mr. Leth- 
bridge is thus noticed in the register of the parish of 
Wolborough : «' December 11, 1759. Buried Mr. John 
Lethbridge, inventor of a most famous diving engine, 
by which he recovered from the bottom of the sea, in 
different parts of the globe, almost 36100,000. for the 
English and Dutch merchants, which had been lost by 
shipwreck." There is reason to suppose, that Mr. Leth-. 
bridge was the. first person, who, by his ingenuity and 
intrepidity, succeeded in recovering goods from wrecked 
vessels ; there is, I believe, no record of Phipps's belU 



262 



BIOGRAPHY. 



which was a prior invention, having been successfully 
used for that purpose. "|| 

Philip Frowde, a dramatic poet, and friend of 
Addison, was born at Totnesin the latter part of the 17th 
century. He was educated at Magdalen College, Ox- 
ford, where he formed a personal friendship with Addison, 
which continued through life. He was the author of two 
tragedies, " Philotas" and " the Fall of Saguntum," 
besides a variety of very beautiful poems, published in 
the Musae Anglicanee, aud distinguished by their chaste 
Latinity. He died in London, in 1738.f 

John Huxham, M. D. born about 1694. We are 
indebted for the following memoir of this celebrated 
physician to Henry Woollcombe, Esq. of Plymouth, to 
whomit was given by the late Jas. Northcote, Esq.R. A., 
who had taken it from a manuscript written by an 
intimate friend of Huxham's who knew him well. We 
shall give the interesting memoir by Northcote, verbatim, 
with the exception of one error which states him to have 
been born at Totnes ; we are, however, assured by his 
immediate descendants that they now occupy at Harberton 
(one mile from Totnes) the house which was unques- 
tionably his birth-place, aud that it has remained in their 
family for many generations. They have also in their 
library many books which are thought to have belonged 
to him. The following is Mr. Northcote's account. 
" John Huxham, M. D. — He was born in Harberton of 
very honest but obscure parents. His father was a dis- 
senter in principle, and a Butcher by Trade, and a very 
careful man. He had a small estate in the parish of 
Staverton which h-e left to his eldest son, which was 
disposed of when he came of age, to defray the charges 
of his education. The Doctor was young when his 
Father died, who left him to the sole care of Mr. Thos. 
Edgley a dissenting minister in Totness, who was era- 
powered to bring him up to any profession that he inclined 
to or was fit for. It soon appeared that be was capable 

|j Communicated to Mr. Lysons by Capt. Thomas Lethbridge, 
Ji,N., a grandson of Mr. John Lcthbridge. 

f Biog. Dramat. 



BIOGRAPHY. 263 

of letters, and therefore Mr. Edgley placed him to a 
grammar-school. The most of his time in this way was 
spent with Mr. Gilling of Newton, where he acquired a 
very good knowledge in the classics, and it was discov- 
ered that he had a great memory, tho' assisted by 
very little diligence or application. He was always 
esteemed to have very good parts, and to perform his 
exercises well, but at the same time careless ; but honest 
in making no pretensions to Religion, i. e. he did not 
coincide exactly with the bigots of that time. Having 
finished his courses, he Avas sent to Leyden to study 
Physick under the learned Boerhaave. He did not re- 
main there more than one year and half, his circumstan- 
ces not admitting any further expense, but it happened 
that by his great application, added to his abilities-, he 
had got more in that small time than some would or could 
have done in thrice the time. In short, he studied hard, 
read a great deal, and made the best of his advantages, 
and after he had gone thro' all his Lectures, he went 
to Rheims in France to take his degree, because that 
could be had much cheaper there than at Leyden. Thus 
finished, he returned to Totness, waiting for a place of 
settlement to try his fortune. He did not wait long for 
a place, for Dr. Hankyn, a thick-headed physician of 
Plymouth, dying, Edgley thought it was an opening for 
him, and accordingly carried him directly thither. His 
coming recommended by Mr. Edgley was sufficient to 
put him under the protection of the Dissenters, who 
were immediately his friends ; and that he might appear 
in lodgings suitable to his quality, he was taken to lodge 
and board with Mr. Mordecai Cockey, one of the best 
men in Mr. Enty's meeting. In this situation he con- 
tinued some time, having as yet little practice, for Dr. 
Seymour had the general run of the Town. Business 
not immediately answering expectation, he began to 
think of marrying into some family which might have 
interest to promote it. It happened that Miss Ellen 
Corham was then in town, and not provided for. So he 
made her an offer, and succeeded, and being settled in 
an house of his own he began to look bigger and affect 
much more gravity than usual, and here was the begin- 



264 felOGRAfHY. 

ning of that stiff and affected behaviour which he has 
been so very remarkable for. He pretended to believe 
that his awkward strut and unnatural gravity would give 
him respect ; tho' he freely owned to a friend, when 
he was speaking to him about it, that he laughed at him- 
self for doing it. " Je moque de moi meme," was his 
expression. He began to be much out of humour a 
little after he was married, because business did not come 
in as he expected. He said Plymouth was ' a damn'd 
quacking place,' because some people were better pleased 
to trust themselves in the hands of an old apothecary, than 
with a young physician who had never been used to them. 
He used every little art he could think of to make people 
believe how much he was employed. He would often 
appear in boots,* though he had no place to ride ; he would 
often ride out at one gate and return by another, though he 
had no patient to visit, and he scarce ever went to church 
but his boy must be sent to call him out, tho' he had 
nothing in the world to do ; and thus he went on, inwardly 
cursing the apothecaries who did not think it worth their 
while to recommend him ; till luckily for him Doctor 
Seymour's first madness broke out. He then began to 
be taken notice of by the church party, as well as the 
dissenters. His practice now increased daily, and in 
a very few years he got an estate, and that he might be 
known the better, he wrote up several cases which he 
met with, to Dr. Jurin, Secretary to the Royal Society; 
by which means he contracted a correspondence with 
him, and was soon chosen a Fellow of that body, to 
which he was a credit. Thus he was soon introduced 
into the best business both of town and country, and 
was thereby enabled to live in that splendour which 
at first he never expected. As a scholar, he was allowed 
to understand Latin well, and to be thoroughly acquainted 
with books. As a physician, he was indefatigable in his 
business, and spared no pains by night or day to visit, if 

* From a change of manners this is somewhat unintelligible to 
us; but it must be remembered that at this time, Physicians 
appeared dressed, wearing cocked hats, powdered wigs with bags 
attached to them, shoes with buckles, &c. and no one would have 
thought of wearing boots unless he were actually going on horse- 
back. Note by Mr. Wooll combe. 



BIOGRAPHY 265 

occasion required ; nor was he griping for his fee like 
Doctor Seymour ; but was generally esteemed moderate 
in his demands, and very compassionate and even gene- 
rous sometimes to the sick poor. He was very tenacious 
of his opinion and practice, when contradicted by any 
physician. He kept a decent character with regard to 
his morals, and was guilty of very few excesses in any 
shape. He was a good Anatomist and Natural Philoso- 
pher, and had, upon the whole, knowledge and learning 
sufficient to support his character in business. He died 
at Plymouth, August 10th 1768, and lyes buried in the 
north aisle of the parish church of St. Andrews in that 
town, at the east end of that church near the great door. 
As to his age he was always shy of speaking of it, so that 
it cannot be known with any certainty ; but his family 
supposed him to be between 73 and 74 years old, at the 
time of his death. By his marriage he had one son who 
was bred to the Church, and two daughters, all of whom 
survived him. As to his person, he was rather a little 
man, of a fair complexion, and had a cast in his left eye. 
His print is a strong likeness of him as it was taken from 
a tolerable picture and painted from the life. He com- 
monly wore a scarlet cloak, and (when drest) a suit of 
Mack velvet. Mr. W. Veale, the Apothecary, of Ply- 
mouth, said that Dr. Huxham must have been 76 at his 
death. At the latter part of his life he always visited his 
patients in a sedan chair."* 

There is a Portrait of Dr. Huxham in the Hall of the 
Royal Society at Somerset House, among those of its 
Members ; and another original portrait of him in the 
possession of the Rev. Richard Hennah, Chaplain of 
H. M. troops in Plymouth Garrison, who married 1 a 
Miss Veale, the only child of the Mr. Veale alluded to in 
the preceding memoir by Northcote. His writings are 

* There are a great many anecdotes preserved of Huxham, all 
tending to corroborate the account here given of him, for though 
ke was unquestionably a man of talent, yet he was an instance 
of that strange admixture of character we constantly perceive in 
human nature. I abstain from mentioning them, because I hope 
some of them are overcharged ; and I do not love to dwell on the 
imperfections of men, where there is real ability, as there was in 
t&is one. Note by Mr, Woollcombe. 
AA 



266 BIOGRAPHY, 

" A Treatise on Fevers 1739," 8vo. A Dissertation on 
the malignant ulcerous Sore-throat, " Observations on 
Air, and Epidemic Diseases ;" "Observations on Anti- 
mony," etc. A spirituous infusion of Peruvian bark and 
aromatics, which he was fond of prescribing, still retains 
the title of «« Huxham's tincture of Bark." His Treatise 
on Fevers led to a singular but gratifying distinction. 
The Queen of Portugal was attacked with fever which 
baffled all the skill of the native physicians. The King 
therefore summoned the physician of the British factory 
to her assistance, who stipulated for her immediate 
resignation to his own treatment and discretion. Her 
Majesty soon recovered; and the physician having de- 
clared that he had derived all the knowledge on which 
his method was founded from the principles contained in 
the work of Dr. Huxham, the King ordered a translation 
of the Treatise to be made into the Portuguese language, 
and on its publication, presented Huxham with a splen- 
did quarto copy. It has been announced in Germany 
that the collected Latin Medical Classics now publishing 
at Leipsig, will comprise anew edition of Dr. Huxham's 
works, 



The Rev. Edward Lye, the learned author of the Saxon 
Dictionary was born at Totnes, in 1704. Having gradu- 
ated at Oxford, he entered into holy orders ; and held 
successively the livings of Little Houghton and Yardley- 
Hasting-s in Northamptonshire, to which he was pre- 
sented by the Earl of Northampton. But the lustre 
which he has shed on this his county arose from his 
profound acquaintance with the manners and language of 
our Anglo-Saxon ancestors, which he has illustrated 
with unequalled ability, and with a vast fund of philo- 
logical research. His first literary work was a translation 
of part of the Gothic Glossary of Francis Junius. This 
celebrated work, entitled " Etymologicon Anglicanum," 
Mr. Lye published in 1743, from the MS. in the Bodleian 
library, enriched with original notes, and a new grammar 
of the language. His second work was a translation of 
the four gospels into Gothic, and a Gothic Grammar. 
But the most splendid and elaborate of all his efforts, is 
his "Anglo-Saxon and Gothic Dictionary," a work of 



BIOGRAPHY. 267 

immense talent, versatility of intellect, and erudite and 
laborious study. Although it occupied many years in 
the composition, he did not live to see it published ; but 
in 1772, five years after his death, it appeared under 
the auspices of Owen Manning- the antiquary, with a 
grammar of both tongues- prefixed, and a memoir of the 
author. The title is " Dietionarium Saxonico et Gothico- 
Latinum, auctore Edvardo Lye, edidit et auxit O. M." 
1772, 2 vols, folio. This is a work of which Devon may 
well be proud, for it would take an honourable rank, if it 
had no other aim than that of a successful compilation ; 
but it possesses the higher merit of having not only 
diffused a taste for this most interesting department of 
national history, but of having given an impulse to phi- 
lology which is even yet insufficiently appreciated. t It 
does not appear that Lye kept up his connexion with his 
native county, for Dean Milles is the only Devonian in 
the list of subscribers to his work. 



Benjamin Kennicott, D.D.,the celebrated Hebraist, 
was born at Totnes, in 1718, and was the son of Ben. 
Kennicott, the parish clerk. He was educated at the 
Totnes grammar-school, and obtained the situation of 
master of the charity-school of that place. By the 
assistance of some friends he became a student of Wadham 
College, Oxford, in 1744, where he distinguished himself 
by his application to the higher branches of theology. 
In 1747 he published "Two Dissertations, the first on 
the Tree of Life in Paradise ; and the second on the 
oblations of Cain and Abel." This work brought him 
into notice ; he was soon after elected Fellow of Exeter 
College, and, as a tribute to his merit, was admitted to 
the degree of B.A. without the usual fees. He enter- 
tained his design of collating the Hebrew MSS. of the 
Old Testament about 175C, and a few years afterwards 
called public attention to the subject by a pamphlet 
entitled " The State of the printed Hebrew Text of the 
Old Testament considered." The plan was successful, 
and he commenced, in 1758, the arduous work of collation, 

f We are indebted for a translation of Manning's Life of Lye, 
in the Saxon Dictionary, to Henry Woollcombe,JEsq. of Plymouth; 
which is the authority for this article. 



268 BIOGRAPHY 

under very liberal patronage. The principles, however, ex- 
pressed in the tract already published, had excited no small 
attention, and were ably commented upon by Mr. Home, 
afterwards Bishop of Norwich. But these things did not 
deter him, and he proceeded actively with his under- 
taking. About the same time he was presented to the 
living of Culham in Oxfordshire, and appointed a preacher 
at Whitehall. He took his degree of D.D. in 1761, and 
received from the crown a pension of 3S20Q. In 1767> 
he was chosen Keeper of the Radcliffe Library, and three 
years afterwards a Prebend of Westminster, which he 
afterwards exchanged for a Canonry at Christchurch. In 
1776, his Hebrew Bible appeared with the various readings 
of MSS. 2 vols, fol.; to which he added in 1780, 
another folio work entitled " Dissertatio in Vetus Testa- 
mentum Hebraicum, cum variis lectionibus." His other 
works were principally sermons and polemical tracts, 
and '• Remarks on select passages of the Old Testament" 
posthumously published. All these writings display 
great power and originality, profound learning, and 
independent thinking. Among early anecdotes told of 
Dr. Kennicott at Totnes, it is said that he composed 
some sacred music, and instructed the choir of the church ; 
it is also said that he was fond of bell-ringing, and Mr. 
Poiwhele has preserved his set of rules for the ringers at 
Totnes. The inscription which he wrote and had engraved 
on his father's tomb is curious, and original : "As virtue 
should be of good report, sacred be this humble monu- 
ment to the memory of Benjamin Kennicott, parish-clerk 
of Totnes, and Elizabeth his wife : the latter an example 
of every Christian virtue ; the former animated with the 
warmest zeal, regulated by the best good sense, and both 
constantly exerted for the salvatiou of himself and others. 
Reader, soon shalt thou die also ; and, as a candidate 
for immortality, strike thy breast and say, Let me live 
the life of the righteous, that my latter end may be 
like his. Trifiing are the dates of time ivhen the 
subject is eternity. Erected by their son, Benjamin 
Kennicott, D.D,, Canon of Christ Church, Oxford." 
This amiable and excellent divine died August 18th> 
1783.* 

* Chalmers. Aikin. Gorton's Biog. Diet. Lysons. Vol. II. 



BIOGRAPHY. 269 



George Baker, an eminent East Indian benefactor, 
was born at Tormohun, in 1721, of very respectable pa- 
rents. He was a man of great talents, and rose entirely 
by his own exertions. He chose the naval profession, 
and in due time obtained command of one of the ships be- 
longing to the East India Company. He retained this 
situation for many years, and at length retired from the 
service, and settled at Madras. That place was then 
badly and very inadequately supplied with water, and 
Mr. Baker proposed a plan to the company, by which 
water might be brought to the settlement. This plan was 
reported on by the Company's agents as impracticable, 
and given up as useless. But Mr. Baker's ardour was 
not damped by this refusal ; he undertook the patriotic 
work at his own risk and expense, and succeeded in 
bringing thcwater to Madras. The wells are called, we 
believe, Baker's Wells, to this day ; they were subse- 
quently sold to the East India Company.* Mr. Baker 
was the immediate ancestor of Nicholas Baker, Esq. of 
Newton. The following is the inscription on his mo- 
nument in the parish-church of Tormohun. " To the 
memory of Geo* Baker, Esq., who, after a life devoted 
to the public service and to private acts of beneficence^ 
died at Madras, in the East Indies, July 9th, 1799 ; aged 
78 years. His benevolence and charity ceased not with 
his life ; amidst various and liberal bequests to the indi- 
gent and distressed, he distinguished by a legacy of 
<£500, this his native parish. His nephew, William 
Baker, caused this marble to be erected in token of his 
veneration and affectionate gratitude." 



Philip Furneaux, D. D. a celebrated nonconformist 
divine, was born at Totnes in 1726. He was educated 
for a dissenting minister^ and in due time was appointed 
assistant preacher to the presbyterian congregation in St* 
Thomas's Southwark, and a Sunday-evening lecturer at 
Salter's Hall. In 1753 he was elected pastor of the congre- 
gation of Clapham, where he became one of the most 
popular pulpit orators of his day. He was there presented 
with the diploma of Doctor of Divinity by one of the Scotch 
* Communicated by Nicholas Baker, Esq., of Newton. 



270 BIOGRAPHY. 

universities. For the last six years of his life his sphere 
of usefulness was much contracted by the appearence oS 
mental derangement, from which he never recovered. He 
died in 1783. Dr. Furneaux's works, although not nu- 
merous, are distinguished by their large spirit of christian 
benevolence and universal charity, to say nothing of 
their talent and acuteness. The work which is per- 
haps best known, is "An Essay on Toleration," which 
he published in 1778 ; but the most important is entitled 
"Letters to the honourable Mr. Justice Blackstone, 
concerning his Exposition of the Act of Toleration and 
some positions relating to Religious liberty, in his cele- 
brated Commentaries on the Laws of England." In 
this work he attacked the principles of the Judge, with 
much spirit and ability, and was not unworthy to form, 
along with Jeremy Bentham and Priestley^ that distin- 
guished Triad by which the positions of Blackstone were 
assailed. f 



Robert Sweet, a popular and meritorious writer on 1 
Gardening and Botany, was born at Cockington in 1782. 
He was the son of William Sweet, the gardener at Cock- 
ington Court, and displayed, at an early age, a talent for 
that walk of life in which he has so much excelled. On 
the formation of the celebrated Nurseries at Bristol by 
his elder brother, Sweet proceeded to that city to perfect 
himself in the art, and subsequently filled the honourable 
office of foreman at Colville's Establishment in the 
Chelsea road. But he is more known to the practical 
gardener for his useful publications, — and to the botanist 
for the arduous research, diligence, and ability which 
distinguish them. His chief work is entitled " Hortus 
suburbcmns Londinensis" but a still more recent publi- 
cation has appeared entitled " Cistiriece, The Natural 
order of Cistm or Rock Rose," — the extreme beauty 
of which causes its to regret that we are not more largely 
favoured by his pencil and his pen. Sweet was always, we 
believe, an eccentric person, — modest in the expression 
of his sentiments, and reserved in showing his talents 
f Gent. Mag. 



BIOGRAPHY. 



271 



until called upon to display them. It is not unlikely 
that his abstracted, and occasionally absent manner 
arose out of his habits of study and that mode of reason- 
ing which traces every result to its cause. His life has 
been a checkered one ; and although it has already been 
productive of very marked utility, Ave trust that he may 
yet be permitted to favour and delight a public, with 
whom he is always welcome. 

William Brockedon,* another of the eminent men 
whom Totnes has produced, and one of the most popular 
artists of modern times, was born in that town, October 
13th, 1787. His father, who was a watchmaker, was 
a native of Kingsbridge, where, and in the adjoining town 
of Dodbrook, his family have been residents or have held 
property since the reign of Henry IV. The subject of 
this memoir was educated at the school of Mr. Dawe, 
who is still living, though retired from his establish- 
ment, at Totnes ; but in this, his acquirements were 
limited to writing and arithmetic. His father was 
a man of singularly fine and powerful understanding : 
and to his natural talents are, no doubt, to be attributed 
the turn which Mr. Brockedon's character had taken 
before the age of 15. It grew under his instruction and 
advice, and the taste he then acquired for mechanical 
pursuits has never left him. At the early age just 
mentioned, Mr. Brockedon had the severe misfortune to 
lose bis father, who died in Sept. 1802. During his 
long illness of nearly twelve months, our artist, young 
as he was, conducted his business; after his death, in 
accordance with an arrangement made previously to that 
event, he spent six months in London in the house of a 
watch manufacturer, to perfect himself in what he ex- 
pected would have been his pursuit in life. On his return 
from London, he continued to carry on the business on 
behalf of his mother for five years ; when some drawings 
that he had recently made were shown to the Ven. Arch- 
deacon (then Mr.) Froude of Dartington. The art had been 

* We are proud that Mr. Brockedon has permitted us to present 
his native county with the, first memoir of his honourable and 
interesting exertions. 



272 BIOGRAPHY 

a pleasure to him from childhood, and Archdeacon Froude 
(who had been a kind friend to his father, especially 
during his illness) now generously took an interest in 
encouraging him to pursue painting as a profession. 
With his characteristic feeling, the Archdeacon liberally 
aided Mr. Brockedon's journey to London and establish- 
ment there, during the period of his studies at the Royal 
Academy. 

Mr. Brockedon first went to London as an artist in 
Feb. 1809, and from that time pursued his studies as a 
painter with little interruption from other objects. In 
1815, immediately after the Battle of Waterloo, he pro- 
ceeded to France and Belgium, and had the benefit and 
gratification of seeing the Gallery of the Louvre before 
its dispersion. Soon after his return he painted the picture 
of the Acquittal of Susanna, now in the Crown Court of the 
Castle of Exeter, and presented it to his native County. 
The next large picture which he produced is now in the 
Church at Dartmouth, presented through his valued 
friend, A. H. Holdsworth, Esq., M.P.; the subject is 
Christ raising the Widow's Son at Nain ; this picture 
obtained for him the prize of 100 Guineas from the 
Directors of the British Institution. In 1819, he in- 
vented a mode of drawing fine wire by means of holes 
pierced in Sapphires, Rubies, and other gems. This 
discovery was patented, but from the facility of violation 
was not a source of profit, though it is now the 
mode universally adopted. In connexion with this object 
he again visited France. In the summer of 1821, he 
married an inestimable woman, and left England soon 
after for a tour in Italy. He wintered in Rome, and 
painted during his stay, a picture of the Vision of the 
Chariots to the Prophet Zachariah, which was exhibited 
there in the Pantheon. After visiting Naples he retur- 
ned to England by Venice, the Tyrol, the Rhine, and 
Belgium. On his arrival he renewed his studies as a 
painter, and produced several pictures. In 1824, he 
made an excursion to the Alps, to investigate the route 
of Hannibal; and on his return, having traversed the 
Alps four times during that journey, it occurred to him 
that illustrations of the « 'Passes," a subject of great in- 



BIOGRAPHY 273 

terest and pleasure to him in the inquiry, would not he 
uninteresting to the public ; and with this view, he 
followed up the investigation during the following sum- 
mers of 1825, 1826,-28 and 29. In the course of this 
pursuit, he was led to cross the Alps fifty-eight times, and 
to pass in and out of Italy by above forty different routes. 
His work on the "Passes of the Alps" in two volumes is 
a part of the result of these Journeys. In 1829, Mr. 
Brockedon had to endure a severe dispensation in the 
loss of his wife in child-birth. His last visit to the Alps 
followed that event, as a means, amidst the change and 
excitement of such scenes, of diverting his mind from 
his affliction. Another beautiful work has been edited 
by Brockedon subsequently to the Passes of the Alps ; viz. 
"An Illustrated Road Book from London to Naples," but 
only two parts out of five yet have appeared. Brockedon 
is the editor and the principal contributor of the draw- 
ings, — Prout and Stanfield occasionally assisting him with 
the production of their pencil. The work however 
belongs to the Findens ; and as the delays of publication 
depend on them, it is probable that it will not be com- 
pleted until after the publication of their splendid illus- 
trations of Lord Byron, a work which engages all their 
attention, in order that it may be issued concurrently 
with Murray's new edition of Byron's Works. To those 
who have seen the first numbers of this Road Book, it ia 
unnecessary to point out the merits of Brockedon's Place 
Louis XVI, Lanslebourg, etc. which are not only excel- 
lent as works of art, but rival, with no mean pretensions* 
their beautiful associates. 

Mr. Brockedon still retains his love of scientific pur- 
suits. He has recently invented a new pen which he has 
patented jointly with Mordan, the well-known pencil 
manufacturer. It is new in its form and principle of 
action ; the slit being oblique in the direction in which 
the writing usually leans ; it bears the name of the oblique 
pen and since the sale has commenced, the production 
has fallen far short of the public demand for it. Mr. 
Brockedon's time is now occupied in painting or in 
making drawings in water colours for his works, with 
occasional deviations, as in the case of the pen and thor 



274 BIOGRAPHY. 

wire, to mechanical inquiry and pursuits. Hence the 
objects to which his attention is directed are numerous, 
but he may justly claim the merit of perseverance in the 
accomplishment of all that he has undertaken. Our 
space does not allow us to enter into a critique on Mr. 
Brockedon's talents as an artist * but in these days when 
art seems to raise her drooping head, it is no small credit 
that his works are the theme of universal admiration. 
His historical paintings display a depth of thought and 
an unaffected ease of imagination, which are unknown 
to the showy style of some of his contemporaries 5 but 
we confess that we rejoice to see his pencil at work with 
the sombre and mighty magnificence of mountain scenery. 
His turn of mind is peculiarly qualified for this branch 
of the art 5 and while he has reaped a rich harvest of 
fame by his productions in his native land, it is pleasing 
to see him gathering fresh laurels from the sunny fields 
of Italy. 



aSurcjnqpljtnil |->ummar», 

EMINENT NATIVES OF THE CENTRAL DISTRICT OP 
SOUTH DEVON. 

Ashburton — John Dunning, "anaroe, says Sir "William 
Jones, to which no title can add lustre," the 1st Lord 
Ashburton, and Statesman, born 1732. — John Gifford, 
translator of Juvenal and Persius, Poet, and Critic, b. 
1797. — [Carlisle, the Deistical Writer, now resident 
in London, is also a native of this town.] 

Brixham Parish — Sir John Hody, Chief Justice of the 
King's Bench, floruit, 1440, 

Chudleigh — John Churchill, Duke of Marlborough, 
the hero of Blenheim, b. 1650. — Thomas Rennell, 
Painter. —Major James Rennell, Geographer, b. 1742. 

Cockington — Sir John Cary, Chief Baron of the Ex- 
chequer, fl. 1390. — James Cary, Bishop of Exeter, 
fl. 1419.— Rev, Dr, Robert Cary, Chronologist, fl. 
1650. — Robert Sweet, (now resident in London,) 
writer on Botanv, b, 1782. 



275 BIOGRAPHY 

Dartmouth — John Hawley, a rich Merchant, and be- 
nefactor to the town, fl. 1400. — W. Newcommen, 
Engineer, fl. 1680. 

Grernwat — Sir Humphrey Gilbert, Coloniser of New- 
foundland, Warrior and Navigator, b. about 1540 — 
Adrian Gilbert, brother of the preceding, a Navi- 
gator, and the person, who gave name to " Gilbert's 
Sound," fl. 1585. 

Harberton — Dr. John Huxham, Medical writer, b. 
1694. 

Loventor. — Rev. George Lyde, Vicar of Widecombe 
in the Moor, who was preaching when that Church 
was destroyed by lightning in 1638 ; Author of a Poem 
on the catastrophe. 

Newton Abbot — John Lethbridge, Inventor of a Diving 
Machine, fl. 1730. 

Sandridge — John Davis, Discoverer of "Davis' Straits,'' 
fl. 1590. 

Sharphaivi. — Mr. Sergeant Drew, lawyer — and Recorder 
of London in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. 

Teignmouth — ^Mrs.) Mary Anne Prowse, (now resident 
in Torquay), Author of the " Guerilla Bride," and 
other Poems. 

Torbryan — Guy de Bryan, Warrior and Ambassador, 
fl. 1350, — Sir William Petre, Secretary of State, etc. 
fl. 1560. 

Tormohun — Sir Thos. Ridgeway, Earl of Londonderry, 
fl. 1600. — Geo. Baker East Indian benefactor, b. 172*1, 

Totnes. — Philip Frowde, Dramatist, fl. 1710. — Edward 
Lye, Author of the Anglo-Saxon Dictionary, b. 1704. 
— Benjamin Kennicott, D. D., Hebraist and Canon of 
Christ Church, b. 1718. — Philip Furneaux, writer 
on Religious Liberty, b. 1726. — William Brockedon, 
Historical Painter, (now resident in London ;) b. 1787. 



APPENDIX. 



<£ccl?£ta£ttcal Crs'taoltel) merit 



I. — United Parishes of Tormohun and Cockington. 

Incumbent. — Rev. Robert Gee, M. A. 

Clerk. — Mr. Lander. 

* Torquay Chapel of Ease. 

Minister. — Rev. Charles Lane, M. A. 

Clerk. — Mr. Sharland. — Organist. — Mr. Barnes. 



II. Parish of St. Mary Church. 

church. 

Vicar.— Rev. G. M. Coleridge, B. D. 

Dependant Churches. 

* Kin gsker swell. — Incumbent, Rev. A. Neck. M. A. 

*Coffinswell. — Curate, Rev. W. Barker, M. A. 



III. Parish of Paignton. 
Vicar. — Rev. Robert Gee, M.A. 

* Dependant Chapelry of Marldon. 
Curate. — Rev. Richard Hayne, M. A. 



IV. Parish of Brixham. 

Upper Brixham. — Vicar, Rev. R. Holdsworth. 
Curate. — Rev. Thomas Twysden. 

* Defendant Church of Kingsware. 

Incumbent. — Rev. R. Holdsworth. 
Lower Brixham. — Incumbent, Rev. H. F. Lyte, M. A. 

V. DART3I0UTH. 

St. Saviour's and Townstall. 

Incumbent. — Rev. R. Holdsworth. 

Curate. — Rev. Edward Dix. 

St. Petrox. 

Incumbent— Rzv. J. M. Glubb. 



APPENDIX 277 



VI. TOTNES. 



Vicar. — Rev. Joseph Cuming. 
Curate. — Rev. Thomas Cleave. 



VII. COMBE-IN-TEIGNHEAD. 

Rector.— Rev. W. B. Wrey. 
Curate. — Rev. Thomas Kitson. 



VIII. Stoke-in-teignhead. 
Rector. — Rev. Dr. Collyns. 



IX. WoLBOROUGH AND St. LEONARD'S ChAPEL, 

Newton Abbot. 

Rector.— Rev. W. Clack. 
Curate. — Rev. J. Bradford. 



X. Newton Bushell Chapel. 

Incumbent. — Rev. Thomas Whipham. 
Curate. — Rev. John Atkins. 



XI. Haccombe Extra-parochial Chapelry. 

Incumbent. — Rev. Thomas Carew. 
Officiating Minister. — Rev. William Kitson. 



XII. Berry Pomeroy. 

Vicar. — Rev. J. Edwards, 
Curate. — Rev. E. C. Brown. 



XIII. Abbot's Kerswell. 

Vicar. — Rev. William Kitson. 
Curate. — Rev. Robert Kitson. 

BB 



278 



APPENDIX 



XIV. Ogwell. 



East Ogwell. — Rev. Thomas Whitburne. 
West Ogwell. — Rev. John Templer. 



XV. Denbury. 

Incumhetit. — The Venule. Archdeacon Froude, 
Curate. — Rev. — Coney. 



XVI. Ipplepen. 
Incumbent. — Rev. — Marriott. 



XVII. Dartington. 
Rector.— The Ven. Archdeacon Froude. 



Archdeaconry of Totnes. 
Archdeacon. — Rev. R. H. Froude. 



Roman Catholic Church. 
I. Ugbrook. — Rev. J. Brownbill. 
II. Follaton. — Rev. C. Tirmnings. 
III. Tor Abbey.— Rev. J. M'Enery. 



Independent Chapel, Torquay. 
Minister, — Rev. W. Greenwood. 



Military Establishment. 

South Devon Yeomanry Cavalry. 

Head Quarters, — Teign mouth, 

Commandant , — Major Warwick H. Tonkin, K. C. M. 

Governor of Dartmouth Castle, A. H. Holdsworth. Esq. 

Civil Establishment. 

Collector of Customs for the Port of Dartmouth, 

(including Torbay.) 

Edward Brooking Esq. 

Comptroller. — George H. Sparke, Esq. 



appendix 279 

Magistrates for the Paignton Division. 

Henry Studdy ; Edward Elton ; J. B. Yarde Buller ; 
J. Farlby ; Henry Gary ; George Templer, and Robert 
Shedden, Esqrs. Rev. William Kitson ; 
Rev. Robert Holdsworth. 



The Torbay Bank. 

{Established in 1832.) 
Firm, — William Vivian, William Kitson, and 

Edward Vivian. 
Rooms at Mr. Kitson's Office, Vaughan Parade. 

London Bankers— Btwmrd, Dfcnsdale, and Diwsdale, 
50, Cornhill. 



Professional Men at Torquay, 

Medical. 

Physicians. — William Scully, — Alexander Denmark. 

R. F. de B. Barry ;— W. B.'Wilmot. 

Surgeons, — William Pollard; J. B. Jolley; Henry 

Cartwright; J. B. Blackaller, Tor. 



Attornies. 

Messrs Abraham* and Kitson. J. N. P. Cosserat,* 

Thomas Atkins.* 

^Masters Extra, in Chancery. 



Fine Arts, &c. 
L. Costil, French Gentleman, Artist. 



INDEX TO THE 

panorama at Corquag, 



ABBREVIATIONS. 



Antiq Antiquities. 

Mem Memoirs. 

Trans Transactions. 



Par. Hist. . Parochial History. 
Hist History. 



Page 

Abbot's Kerswell 1 75. Antiq. 249 
Ansty's Cove, 91-92 

The Cavern, . . . . 92 

The Camp, . . . . 204 

Antiquities of Dartmoor 197-98 
Antiquities, .. .. 200-51 
Anning's, Miss, discoveries, 132 

Appendix, 276 

Ash Hole, . .. 13/120, 146-48 
Ashburton, 180, — Camps... 207 

B. 

Babbicombe, 94-95 

Baker, Geo. mem. of . . . . 269 
Balle, Robert, anecdote of 224 
Banks of Dart . . . . 154-55 
Baronius, Cardinal . . . . 251 
Barton, .. .. 6, 96, &b 
Beche, Mr. De la, 5, 11, 131-38 

Becky Fall, 193 

Believer Tor, 193 

BerrvHead, . .. 121, 144-46 

. Antiq. .. . . 202-3 

Berry Pomeroy Castle . . 165-71 

Village, .. ..171 

Church Antiq. 246-4 

Biography, 254-75 

Bishop's Teignton Church .. 250 

Blagdon 171 

Booker, Dr. on Napoleon . . 31 
Booker's, (T. W.) Poem on 

Torquay 3 

Botany of Torquay. . .. 74-76 

Berry Head . . 146 

■ Dartmouth .. . . 153 

Holne Chase . . 183 



Page 

Bovey Heathfield. . . . 11, 195 
Bowerman's Nose . . . . 193 
Bradley, 13, 117,— House, 173 
Breakwater in Torbay . . 3 

Brent Tor 196 

Brewer, Lord Win. 208, 215-16 
Bridgetown Pomeroy. . .. 158 
British Antiquities . . . . 201 

in Kent's Hole,. . 122 

in Chudleigh Cave, 127 

Brixhara, 25, 141, 148, 236-38 

Church, .. .. 237 

Broadhempston 185 

Broadridge Plain . . . . 175 
Brockedon, Wm. mem. of 271-74 
Brown's (Mr. R.) letter 225-28 
Brutus, the legend of . . 19-21 
Bryan, Lord de, mem. of 254 
Bu'ckland, Professor, 110-133 
Buck fast Abbey .. ..184 

Buckfastleigh ibid 

Buckland on the moor . . 181 
C. 

Cadwell 176 

Cary family 230 

Cary, Sir John, mem. of 230, 254 
Cary, Dr. Robert, mem of. . 259 

Castle field 207 

Cawson hill 195 

Chagford 195 

Changes on the coast . . 15-18 
Chapel hill .. .. 89, 90, 223 
Charles I. at Ford . . . . 244 
Charles II. at Dartmouth . . 24 
Chelston 50, 98 



INDEX 



281 



Chudleigh, 185, Cave,\26-27. 186 
Churston Ferrers . . . . 239 
Civil wars, trans, in the, 23-24 

Clacywell pool 196 

Clark, Dr. Jas. on climate 51-58 
Clifford, the late Lord .. 186 
Climate of Torquay.. 39-58 

of Tor and Upton . . 49 

of St. Mary Church and 

Paignton 50 

its effects on disease 52-55 

Cockington .. 98-100. 229-33 

Church, 99-100. 232-33 

Court House.. .. 98 

Almshouses.. .. 231 

Coffins well.. .. 165,245-46 
Combe-in-teignhead .. 159, 243 
Compton Castle. . .. 104-6 
Condensation of Gases .. 114 
Conchology of Torbay 79-82 

of Torquay 

Cranmere Pool 195 

Crockern Tor 197 

Cromlech at Drewsteignton 195 
Cross at Newton . . . . 27 

D 

Daccombe 24 6 

Daddy's hole 93 

Danish Antiq 207 

Danes, incursions of 22 

Dartington 177-79. Church, 250 
Dartmeet Bridge .. ..181 
Dartmoor 187-9 

civilization of 188-8*5 

writers on .. 198-9 

Dartmouth, 22, 23, 24, 149*54 

238-39. 

Church* . . 

Steam Bridge . 

Davis, John, mem. of 



Echo at Watcombe 
Sharpham 



Etymology of Ash Hole 
Ather Tor 



101 

155 

Edginswell .. .. .. ..176 

El berry Cove Spring . . . . 103 

Ellacombe 87 

148 
136 
195 
126 
194 
126 
4 
216 
204 
56 



Dazon Rock 

Denbury, 174, — Camp, 

Par. Hist. . . 



152, 231, 

149-50 
.. 258 
.. 131 

206 

248 



Dennis, Sir T.. character of 221 

Dittisham 154 

Dryness of Torquay . . 47-48 

E. 
East India Comp's. first fleet 

in Torbay 28 

Ecclesiastical Destructions . 218 



Cawson Hill . 

Chudleigh .. 

Manaton . . 

" Pixies" . . 

Torbay 

Tormohun .. 

Warberry .. 

Exotics grown at Torquay 

F. 

Flavel, the nonconformist 142 
— his Epitaph on Mr. Upton 237 
Ford House ,. .. 161, 243 
Fortifications on the Berry 145 
French the, in Torbay . . 28 

burn Dartmouth 22-23 

Frowde Philip, mem of . . 262 
Furneaux Philip, mem. of. . 269 

G. 
Geology of the district . . 5-18 

Gilbert family 106 

Gilbert, Sir H. mem. of . . 256 
Adrian, mem. of.. 258 



Goodrington 102-03 

Greenway 154, 239 

Griffiths, Mrs. discoveries 74, 122 
Grimspound .. .. 120, 194 

Gubbings, the 188 

H. 
Haccombe 164-65 — Church, 244 
Fox Hounds 72, 164 
Harberton Church . . . . 250 
Hardy, Sir Charles . . . . 29 
Hemans, Mrs. her Poem, 30, 199 

Hembury Camp 207 

Heraldry 251 

Heronry at Sharpham .. 155 
Heytorite, the mineral .. 191 
History of the district.. 19-33 

of Devon, (Moore's) 254 
Hist. Sketch of Torquay 35-36 

Trans, at Dartmouth 22-24 
Totnes . . 24 



High Tor Rocks 136, 187, 190-92 



282 



INDEX. 



Hody, Sir John, mem. of . . 255 

Holne Chase 182-83 

Hope's Nose and Farm . . 91 
Huxham, Dr. mem. of . . 262 

I. J. 
Ikeneld, British Way . . 201 

Ilsam 91 

Johnson, Dr. Jas. on change 

of air . . 38, 58 

Jones, Rev.'J. P. onPorteus 218 
Ipplepen, 173— Par. Hist. 249 
Ipplepen Monastery . . . . 249 
Iron, use of, in Churches.. 250 

K. 
Kent's Cavern .. .. 107.38 
Kennicott, Dr. mem of .. 267 
King's Kerswell, . ..172 

Church . . 247 

Kingsware 154 

Castle . . 23, 24, 154 

L. 
Land Shells of Torquay . . 83 

Laywell Spring 144 

Lethbridge, John, mem. of 260 
Little Hempston . . . . 184 

Livermead 88-89 

"London Bridge Arch" 12.93 

Loventor 171 

Lupton 143, 238 

Lustleigh Cleve 19fc 

Lydford Castle 196 

Lye, Edward, mem of . . 266 
Lyte, Rev, H. F. 13, 120, 146.49 

M. 

M'Carthy, Sir Charles . . 152 

M'Enery, Rev. J. his work, 73 

109, IK 

his researches 13: 

Madrepore Rock at Ogvvell \l 

Maidencombe 101 

Maisonette .. . . .. — 155 

Mallock family 230 

Manaton 193 

Marine Botany of Torbay 77. 7 
Marldon .. .. 106, 235.36 

Meadfoot Bay 93 

Merivale Bridge 197 

Milher Down .. 27, 161, 214 
Minerals .. 15— Mines .. 14 
Mithratic Mysteries .. 112.16 



Mohun's, Lord,Chapel atTor 209 

gives name to the Parish 216 

Molluscae 79 

Mount Boone . . 24, 154, 239 
Museum at Torquay . . . . 73 

N. 

Napoleon in Torbay . . 29.30 
Natural History of the 

district 74. 83 

Nethway 143, 238 

Newcommen, mem. of .. 259 
Newton 24, 161.62— Chapels 244 
Northmore, Thos. Esq. his 

Letters 107 

O. 

Oddicombe 101 

Orwell Church, East . . 248 

West.. . ibid. 



; 



Oliver, Rev. G. on Tor Abbey 208 
on Eccles. Antiq. 217 

Otter, the 191 

P. 

Paignton .. 50, 101.2, 233.35 
Church . . . . ibid. 

Park Hill 93 

Haver or Combe Pafford 96, 229 

Petit Tar 96, 101 

Petre, SlrWm.mem. of .. 255 

Phoenician relics 200 

Pier at Torquay . . . . 36, 69 
Pope's residence at Blagdon 171 
Prince, Author of the 

•'Worthies" 246 

Prince Town 196 

Princess of Wales at Torquay 29 
Professor Buckland's work 110 
Public Establishments of 

Torquay 65.73 

142.43 
152.53 
156.57 
162.63 



of Brixham 
of Dartmouth 
ofTotnes.. 
of Newton.. 



33 



Queen Adelaide at Torquay 

R. 
Reeve, Rev. J. his works . . 186 

his Poem . . 214 

Reynells of Ford . . . . 247.48, 
Ridgeways Earls of Lon- 
donderry.. 85, 92, 212, 216" 



INDEX. 



283 



Ridg-vay, SlrThos.mem. of 258 

Ringmove 159, 243 

Rock-basins, formation of, 198 
Romans in Torbay . . . . 22 
Roman Roads & Camps 202.07 
Roman Antiq. in the Ash Hole 

148, 203 
Roundham Head . . . . 102 

S. 

St. Catherine's 176 

St. Mary Church . . 96, 223.29 

St. Nicholas 243 

Sandridge 155. 239 

Seats around Totnes . . .. 157 

Newton.. .. 163 

Brixham . . 143 

Scenery of Torquay . . 139.40 

Seymour family 180 

Sharpham 155, 239 

Shiphay 107. 17(i 

Spitchwick .. . . .. ..181 

Stantor 4 .. 99, 106 

Stantaway Hill .. ..87, 139 
Statistics of Torquay 58, 64 

Staverton 157, 185 

Steam Bridge at Dartmouth 149 
Stoke-in-Teignhead . . . . 1 60 

Church 243 

Stony Valley 96, 97 

Sweet, Robert, mem. of . . 270 

T. 
Tables of Climate . . . . 43.46 

Statistics.. .. 62.64 

Teignbridge (Club) .. ..163 

Antiq. .. 205.06 

Teign, the river .. .. 215.21 

Teignmouth 15, 22 

Thunder Hole 12 

Tin Works at Tor, &c. . . 223 
— — injure the rivers 241 



Tor Mohun 86.87 

Workhouse lease 211.22 

Tor Mohun Church 86,217,21 
Tor Abbey.. .. 27, 29, 84.86 
Antiq 208.15 

Sands 88 

Torquay 35.73. 

Torwood 92.222 

Torbay House 104 

Torbav, outline &c 2 

Torbryan, 173— Par. Hist. 249 

Tor Hill 139 

Totnes 19, 21, 24, 156.58, 205, 

240.43 

Church .. .. 241.43 

Trilobite in Grauwacke . . 13 

U. 

Ugbrook 185.86 

— Camp, 207— Hist. 250 

Upton . . . . 49, 87, 97, 238 

V. 
Vespasian in Torbay . . . . 22 

W. 
Warberry Hill . . 97, 139. 204 

Watton 155, 239 

Watcombe 14, 100 

Wesley and Whitefield in 

South Devon 229 

White Rock 173.74 

Widecombe in the Moor . . 192 
William HI. in Torbay . . 25.28 

— at Ford 27 

— his reception at Brixham 26 

— and the little Brixhamite 26 
William IV. in Torbav . . 31 

— his reception at Brixham 31.33 

— at Dartmouth .. .. 31.33 
Wistman's Wood. .. 187,97 
Wolborough . . . . 162, 247.48 
Woodbine Cottage . . . . g& 



THE END, 



COCKREM'S 

mivzttavv 0f ICx&zSmen at EaxquKj) atrtf C0r, 



Auctioneer. 
Stabb, T. George-street. 

Bakers and Confectioners. 
Gidley, Wm. 1, Strand. 
Hill, George, near the Turnpike. 
Manning, H. J. Old Quay. 
*Lang, Wm. Fleet-building, near the Turnpike. 
*Mardon, John, Commercial Road leading to Park 

Street. 
51 Putt, F. Commercial Road, between Tor and 

Torquay. 
VVilcocks, John, Union Row 

Those marked thus * are Bakers only. 
Booksellers and Stationers. 
Cockrem, E. ( Printer and Stationer to his Majesty) 

5, Mill-street, opposite the Lower Terrace. 
Cole, P. Lawrence Place. 
Croydon, — adjoining Poulton's Hotel. 
Luscombe, R. near the Commercial Inn. 

Boot and Shoe Makers. 
Branscombe, W. (to her Majesty,) 8, Braddon's Row 
Bridgeman, Saml. 5, Braddon's Row 
Dart, Chas. No. 2, Park-street. 
Lander, W. 1, Torwood-street. 
May, Robert, Union Street 
Babbage, (Patten and Clog Maker,) Torhill, Tor 

Brewers. 
Bridgeman, John, Union Row 
Blackmore, John, Old Quay 
Prowse, William, Near the Turnpike 

Builders. 
Harvey, Jacob, Park-street. 
Luscombe, W. near the Turnpike 
Rossiter, John, Lower Terrace. 
Rossiter, Thomas, George-street 
Wish, W. Park-street. 



DIRECTORY 285 

Butchers. 
Henly, Edward, sen. George-street 
Henly, Edward, jun. Cary-street. 
Luscombe, Thos. 6, Mill-street 
Parnell, Wm. Tor. 
Priston, Thos. Torwood-street. 
Staddon, Thos. Torwood-street 
Tully, John, Commercial Road, Tor 

Cabinet Makers 
Burt, W. C. 9, Strand. 
Clampitt, G. Tor. 
Hearder, S. C. Torwood Row. 
Stark, Wm. (Dealer in Spode Ware,) Braddon's Row 

Carver and Gilder 
Way, Charles, 13, Old Quay 

Chemists and Druggists 
Harrison, James, 4, Strand. 
Havill, Paul. 11, Strand. 
Paige, Thos. 9, Torwood Row 
Wyatt, Richard, 2, Lawrence Place 

Cheesemonger Sf Seedsman 
Shapley, J. R. Braddon's Row 

Classical and Commercial Academy 
Mare, J. 1, Braddon's Row 

Co«Z Merchants 
Brown, — Madrepore Place 
Cookings, S. Montpellier 
Godfrey, Thomas, 3, Strand 
Row, — Cary Buildings 
Winsborrow, J. Tor 

Dairyman 
Huxham, William, near the Market 

Farrier 
Cawdle, John, Veterinary Surgeon to the South 
Hams Yeomanry. — Licensed to let Post Horses, &c. 
Grocers and Tea-Dealers 
Buckingham, John, Opposite Royal Hotel 
Carroll, J. K. Tobacconist, &c. 
Down, William, Torwood Row 
Goss, William, Braddon's Row 
Havill, William, 11, Strand 



286 DIRECTORY 

Grocers and Ter-Dealers. 
Henley, John, Chandler & Grocer, 8, George-street 
Michen, Elizabeth, Union Street 
Pike, Ann, Waldon Steps 
Prowse, Samuel, George-Street 
Wheatley, John, Union Row 
Wills, John, Grocer & Druggist, Tor 

Hair Dressers, Perfumers, Sfc. 
Ball, — Lawrence Place 
Ellis, J. P. Abbey Place 

Ironmongers, Tinmen, SfC. 
Harrison, George, Old Quay 
Hambling, E. Torwood-street 
Stark, Robert, (Agent to the Globe Fire and Life 
Office,) New Quay 

Laundresses , 
Mardon, Elizabeth, Commercial Row, leading to 

Park-street 
Wills, Jane, Park-street 

Linen Drapers, Hosiers, and Haberdashers 
Dashper, Henry, 8, Mill-street 
Rendell, I. and A. 12, Strand 
White way, Mark, 1, Lawrence Place 

Milliners and Dress-Makers. 
Bastow, Mrs. Union Row 
Godfrey, Misses, 5, Torwood Row 
Heath, H, & M. 4, Torwood Row 
Kempster, Mrs. Park-street 
Rendell, Mrs. Torwood Row 

Dealers in Minerals and Shells 
Heggerty, J. Old Quay. 
Wyatt, Mary ,7, Torwood Row 

Nurseryman, Florist, and Seedsman 
Morgan, J. Torbay Nursery, Tor 

Painters, Glaziers, and Plumbers 
Parr, Thomas, Union Row 
Pentecost, Wm. 6, Braddon's Row 
Selley, Edward, near the Turnpike 
Watson, Wm. 12, Lower Commercial Road, Tor 
Way, C. Old Quay, 



DIRECTORY 287 

Poulterer. 
Kilby, Charles, Vaughan Parade 

Saddler. 
Mortimore, Wm. opposite the Royal Hotel 
Simmonds, — Torwood-street 

Straw Bonnet Makers. 
Smallridge, Misses, Park-street 

Tailors and Habit Makers 
Dashper, Henry, 1, Mill-street 
Lear, John, 2, Palk-street. 
Perrin, John, Park-street. 
Satchwell, Thomas, Madrepore Place 
Sandford, William, Union-street 
Weeks, Thomas, Torwood-street 

Toy Shop and Fancy Stationers 
Hearder, t. C. Torwood Row 

Undertakers. 
Harvey, Jacob, Park-street 
Hearder, S. C. Torwood Row 
Luscombe, W. near the Turnpike 
Stark, Robert and William 
Wish, William, Park-street 

White Smith and Bell-Hanger 
Bastow, W. 2, Union-street 

Wine Merchants. 
Beasley, T. 6, Old Quay 
Prowse, J. Park-street 
Stabb, Thomas, 7, George-street 
Watch- Makers. 
Braham, James, Watch .Maker, Goldsmith & Engraver 
Jacobs, Alexander, Silversmith, and Jeweller (to his 
Majesty) 

Carriers. 
T. Medland, leaves Torquay for Exeter, through New- 
ton and Chudleigh every Monday and Thursday morn* 
ing returning the following days ; To Exeter, through 
Teignmouth, Dawlish, and Starcross every Tuesday and 
Friday mornings returning the following days. 

J. Tozer, leaves Torquay every Tuesday, for Plymouth 
and Devonport ; leaving Plymouth every Friday Morning 
on his return to Paignton and Torquay. 



288 



RECTORY. 



H. Heath, from Totnes every Tuesday and Friday, 
returning 1 the same days. 

J. Worth, from Totnes every Monday and Thursday 
returning 1 the same days,- 

Mary Ferryman, from Torquay to Newton every 
Wednesday ; to Totnes on Saturday, returning the same 
days. 

John Herd, from Newton every morning returning the 
same day. 

Philip Winsor, from Bovey, every Saturday returning 
the same day. 

— Elliott, from Shaldon every Tuesday and Thurs- 
day, returning the same day. 

Five safe Vessels are employed between Torquay and 
London : one of which clears as regularly as circum- 
stances may permit, every eighth day. 

Apply at the Offices of Godfrey, Matthews, and 
Slade, Torquay; or at Chamberlain's Wharf, London. 

The Brunswick Steam Vessel, of 100 horse power, 
runs regularly during the season between Plymouth, 
Torquay and Portsmouth ; she calls at Torquay every 
Monday and Thursday about 7 5 P. M. on her way to 
Portsmouth, and returns from that place to Torquay 
every Wednesday and Saturday morning on her voyage 
to Plymouth. Apply to R. J. Slade, the Agent, at 
Torquay. 

There is constant communication between Brixham 
and Guernsey and Jersey, by sailing vessels. 

Pleasure Boats of various sizes, may be procured du- 
ring the usual season, of Messrs, Slade, Godfrey, Peeke, 
Hammick, Stabb, Whiteway, Merdon, Shaw, etc, they 
generally be found ready for hire near the steps of 
the pier. 



E. Coekrem, Printer and Stationer to His Majotty, Torquay. 



LIBRARY OF 



CONGRESS % 



021 3892733 



93J28 



BflPI 



